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OREGON 



Offers the most inviting field for Immigration of any State in 

the Union. An equable climate, with no extremes 

of heat or coid, and no severe storms of 

any kind. 



THE RESOURCES OF OREGON 

Are extensive, varied and prolific. Rich mines of Coal, Iron, Copper, 
Nickel, Gold and Silver. Vast forests of Pine, Cedar and an endless 
variety of other woods. 

Rich Agricultural lands, abundantly watered, producing abundant 
crops of all the Grains, Grasses and Vegetables known to the temperate 
zone. The best Fruit Region in the United States. No pests. No failure 
of crops of any kind 



PORTLAN D 



The metropolis and trade center of the Pacific Northwest. The best 
field for Business or Investment, and the most oleasant place of resi- 
dence on the Pacific coast. 

Population 1880, 22,000; 1889, 70,000. Wholesale and jobbing 
trade of 1888, $75,000,000.00. 

Trade is increasing at the rate of about twenty-five per cent, per year. 

Real estate values are low and steadily advancing with growth of 
the city. For full information as to State and City, address. 

THE OREGON IMMIGRATION BOARD, 

No. 10 Ash Street, PORTLAND. OREGON. 



No. I 



CROFUTT'S 

OVERLAND 

TOURS. 



CONSISTING OF OVER 



Six Thousand Miles of Main Tours, 

AND 

THREE THOUSAND MILES OF SIDE TOURS. 

ALSO 

SIX THOUSAND MILES BY STAGE AND WATER 

DESCRIPTIVE-ILLUSTRATED. 
1 > v Geo. A.. Ckokutt, 

AUTHOR OF OVERLAND AM COLORADO DESCRIPTIVE TOURISTS' BOOKS, 
" ROUND UP," ETC. 



CHICAGO — PHILADELPHIA* 



H. J. SMITH & CO., Pu^Cjs-hers. 
1889. 



.JSHERS. 

MAO 12 ! 88< 



^SHINGTO^' 

SOLD WHOLESALE AND RETAIL BY 

Barkalow Bros., Railway News Agents, Omaha, Neb.; and at their : 

offices, No. 59 Van Buren St., Chicago; Kansas City, Mo.; and at th 

Union Depots in Denver, Cheyenne, Ogden, and Portland, 

Ore.; comprising the Union Pacific, Oregon 

Railway & Navigation, and the 

Denver & Rio Grande systems. 

Ki.i S. Denison, General News Agent, Oakland Pier, Sacramento, and Los 

Angeles, California, and Portland, Oregon; comprising the 

entire Pacific system of the Southern Pacific Co. 

Railroad News Co., General News Agents, Chicago, Kansas Citv, and Los 

Angeles. California; comprising the Atchison Topeka & Santa" Fe, 

" Burlington," and the Chicago, Rock Island & 

Pacific complete systems. 

Gunlock & Dunn , General News Agents, Chicago; Chicago & North- Western Ky. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress in the year 1889, by M. A. Crofutt, in the 
Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



PREFACE. 



If you can read, and have any interest in or curiosity regard- 
ing the Trans-Missouri country, its wonderland and more won- 
derful resources, this book is written for you ! 

It will anticipate the most pertinent questions of every class 
of "stay at home" or Western travel: particularly the poor 
emigrant who with his wife and babies is seeking a home, and 
who wants only reliable and impartial information regarding 
lands, schools, etc.; the wage-worker, too, will be informed of the 
wage:, paid in every occupation, and of the demand. So with 
the farmer, fruit-grower, stock-raiser, lumberman, miner, hunter, 
fisherman, etc.; not forgetting the pleasure seeker and those in 
search of medicinal waters, climate, etc. Special effort has been 
made to avoid generalizing; instead, to give facts, names, dates, 
distances, altitudes, where to go, how to go, where to stop, and 
what it costs, as near as possible ; and above all, to express this 
information in as plain language and in as concise a manner as 
possible. 

In the preparation of this series of descriptive Tours, our 
just thirty years sojourn in the far West — twenty of which has 
been devoted specially to tourist and guide books — have proved 
invaluable ; yet the time, labor and extent of travel required to 
gather, sift, condense, compile and arrange the information, has 
been one requiring much more than ordinary care ; and we 
believe that each and every statement made is reliable in every 
particular — yet, we should shudder at the thought of being ab- 
solutely perfect. 

The map accompanying this book was prepared expressly for 
it, and shows at a glance the vast scope of country covered by 
the new series of descriptive Tours ; the green hues represent 
the routes of travel in this book, No. 1; the red lines those in 
No. 2 — the broad lines being the Main Tours and the narrow 
ones the Side Tours and stage lines. 

GEO. A. CROFUTT. 
Denvei . Colo., March, r88p. 






GENERAL INDEX. 



ILM'STKATIOMK. 



LARGE DOUBLE PAGE VIEWS. 

No. i. Falls of the Yellowstone. 

" 2. (ireat railroad "Loop." 
(Shoshone Falls. 
I Lateourell Falls. 
I Multonomah Falls. 
'■ ( Rooster Rock. 

Cape Horn, Columbia River. 
Columbia River by Moonlight. 
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Page. 

( lolden Gate Special Frontispiece. 

Street View in Denver 42 

Hanging Rock, Clear Creek Canon.. 55 

Green Lake, Colorado 66 

South Park, from Kenosha Hill 72 

Alpine Tunnel, approach 7S 

Breckenridge Pass 83 

Mount Holy Cross SS 

Boulder Canon, Colorado 97 

Falls and Cliffs, Yellowstone 113 

Young Mormon Bishops 124 

Devil'sSlide, Weber Canon 133 

Garfield Beach, bathing 157 

Yellowstone Lake 173 

American Falls and Bridge ...183 

Palisades of the Columbia 260 

PORTRAITS. 

Thus L. Kimball | 

J. S. Tebbetts, > 5 

E. L. Lomax. I 



Page. 
portraits — continued. 
Brigham Young 136 

SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Gardner Spring. National Park 21 

Pony Express 30 

Bee Hive Geyser, Yellowstone 36 

Capital of Colorado 4S 

Cattle Brand 49 

The Loop, surface 6S 

Our Singing Birds 100 

View in Yellowstone Valley 108 

Pulpit Rock, Utah 128 

Witches' " " 131 

One Thousand Mile Tree 131 

Mormon Temple 1411 

" Tabernacle 140 

Assembly Building [40 

" Co-Op. Sign 141 

Terraced Springs, Water Pockets 164 

Giantess Geyser 170 

Old Faithful, Yellowstone 175 

Packers going to the mountains. . [89 
Castle Geyser ) .„, 

Fire Basin / " 

My Dear Deer 196 

Horse Tail Fall 227 

Bridal Veil Fall 225 

Islands in the Columbia 235 

Pillars of Hercules 258 



KAILKOADS. 



Union Pacific 

"Left-Leg" Branch 

Alma ' 

Boulder Valley " 

Cheyenne & Northern 

Colby 

Colorado Central 

Denver Pacific 

Denver Short Line 

Junction City 

Kansas Pacific 

Keystone 

Leavenworth 

Lincoln 

Manhattan 

Marshall & Boulder 

Narrow ( rauge 

Norfolk 

O. c\: R. V 

( >regon Short l.im 

Salina 

' S. I.. & Western 

Solomon 

Sunset 

South Park 

\\ 1 11 11I River 



Page 
..12-17 
-33-37 






Branch 



04 

.... 44 

59-9S 

" 35-101 

- 43 

37 

" .... S 4 

- 39 
v 44 
.... 41 

• .... 96 
•■•• 39 
.... 25 
" 22-25-26 
" 122-165 
.... 44 
...149 

- 43 
... 98 
69-81 



Page. 

Oregon Railway & Navigation 201 

O. R & N.Dayton Branch 209 

Heppner " 219 

Moscow " 213 

Pampa " 212 

Pomeroy 210 

" Winona " 212' 

Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe 40 

Central Pacific 134 

Colorado Midland 90-93 

Columbia & Puget Sound 246 

Denver & Rio Grande 76 86-91 

Fremont, Elkhorn & Mo. Valley 23 

Gilpin Tram ." 63 

Idaho Central 194 

Montana Union 178 

Northern Pacific 216 237 246 

Olympia & Chehalis Valley 239-250 

Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern.. .216-246 

Southern Pacific 134 

Spokane & Palouse 213-215 

St. Joseph & Grand Island 22-26 

Utah Central [38 145 

Utah & Nevada 1 



LAKES. 



Page 

Hot 204 

Yellowstone 

Swan 176 

Heai 

Utah 153 

Great Salt 138 



Page. 

Como 1 12 

Cooper '. 1 12 

Crystal 111 

rainier 91 

Twin 76 



Page. 

Cottonwool i 75 

Grand.. 67 

Elk 67 

Clear 66 

Green 65 



GENERAL INDEX-coxtinued. 



JtllSOiLIi 

Page. 

Past and Present n 

Golden Gate Special 16 

Equipments 14 

Stock — feeding 23 

raising 46 

Cattle — Range 4 s 

Round-up 49 

Colorado — Generally 53 

Climate. 

Irrigation. 

Products. 

Minerals. 

Mining. 

Scenery. 

Parks..". 56-110 

Snowy Range 56-110 

Wages Paid. 57-58 

University 98 

The Mirage Pheuomonen 47 

Baggage — Sleepers — Lunch 18 

Bridge over Missouri River 19 

O'Fallons Bluffs 27 

Indian Train Wreckers 27 

White " Robbers 29-168 j 

Overland Ponv Kxpress 30 

The Rockies...". 32-53 

Wood, $210 per cord 33 1 

Sheridan Powerless 35 

Old "Cut-off" Wagon Road 35 

A Little History 38-263 

Agricultural College, Kansas 40-41 

Big Hunt, Duke Alexis 47 

Chivingston's Eight 47 

Kenosha Hill, Colorado 71 

"Salted" to Death 74 

Alpine Tunnel 79 , 

California Gulch 86 j 

Grand River Canon 89 j 

Glen Park Association 92 

Pike's Peak 95 

Garden of the Gods 96 

Boulder Canon 98 

Estes Park, etc 99 

The Ames Bros'. Monument 107 

Winters at Sherman 10S 

Dale Creek Bridge 109 

Laramie Plains no 

Indian Reservations..! 16-205-169-205-215 

Bear River Riot, Vigilantes 125 

Powell's Early Explorations 121 

Echo Canon, Pulpit Rock 126-127 

Witches' Rocks, 1000 Mile Tree 131 

Devil's Slide 133 

Grand Views 132- 146- 194 

Utah Territory— Generally 136 

" Farm Products. 

Minerals. 
Climate. 
Fruit. 
Salt. 
" Wages Paid. 

Mormon Towns 145 

" Devil Names 151 

Salt Lake 138 

" Mormon Villages 162 

Little and Big Cottonwoods 147-14S 

Snow Sheds — "Peanuts" 147-148 

American Fork Cation 150 

Grand Amphiteatre 152-262-218 

Fish and Frog Culture 153 

Volcanic. Water Marks 160 

College Farm, Logau Temple. ...162-163 
Yellowstone Park 172 



AXEOIS 

Page. 

Montana — Generally 175 

Mines 
Montana Indians. 

Livestock. 

Valle>\s. 

Population. 

Wealth. 

Agriculture. 

College ,. tSi 

Mammoth AVorks t8o 

Snake River Lava Beds is_> 

Wood River Valley, Camas Prairie. ..185 

Alturas County. Idaho 186 

Ada " " "• 198 

Washington 199 

Boise 197 

Nez Perces " 211 

Latah " 214 

Shoshone and Twin Falls 190 

Great Canal Enterprise 194 

Boise Basin and Vicinity 197 

Snake River Canon 200 

Grand Ronde Vallev 202 

Walla Walla " 20S 

Umatilla County, Oregon 206 

Up the Snake to Lewiston 211 

Spokane Falls and Vicinity 215 

Upper Palisades of the Columbia 218 

Fluming Wheat 221 

Pluto's Caldron 221 

Best View of Mt. Hood 222 

The Lock, Cascades 226 

Fisheries 228-245-251 

Pillars of Hercules 22s 

Rooster Rock 228 

Oregon and Portland 231 

Educational. 
" Counties. 
" Schools, etc. 
" Statistics. 
" Metereological. 
" Railroads, Busi- 
ness. 
Industries. 
Wool Clip, etc. 

Down the Columbia River .,.233 

Salmon Canning •■•233 

Clatsop Countv, Oregon 234 

Pierce County. W. T 241 

Puget Sound ." 241-251 

Navy Yard '•••243 

Smelting Works 241-246 

Steel Works 245 

Big Lumber Cut 244 

Trusts, Strikes 247 

Washington Territorv — Generally. ..251 
"The Sound J 
Lands. 
" Minerals. 
Lumber. 
Banking. 
Fish. 
" Indians. 
Climate. 
Agricultural. 
Coal. 
Wages. 
Chinook Wind, 

Peculiar Mounds 255 

The Columbia Scenery: 25S 

Cape Horn 259 

Castle Rock 261 

Catching Pish by Water-power 261 



GOVERNMENT FORTS AND (AMPS. 



Page. 

Fort Omaha 20 

" Sidney 30 

" Sedgwick 33 

" Morgan 34 

" Riley 41 

" Harker 44 

" Hays 45 

•' Wallace 46 

" Denver 70 

" D. A. Russell 103 



Page. 

Fort Laramie 105 

" Fred Steele 115 

" Washakie v 116 

" Bridger * 123 

" Douglas 142 

" Walla Walla 209 

" Townsend 248 

Camp Pilot Butte 119 

Boise Barracks 196 

Vancouver Barracks 257 



GENERAL INDEX 



-CONTINUED. 



SIDE TOURS AND DETOURS. 

Page. Page. 

IN COLORADO. IN IDAHO AND MONTANA. 

Tour « 59 Tour u 169 

'• 12 184 

i^ 190 

" 14 '94 

IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON. 

Tour is 207 

" t6 21S 

" 17 233 

[8 249 

" 19 256 

Detours 209 

210 

211 

215 



., 4 " 

5- 

Detour. 



IN WYOMING. 

Tour 6 104 

IN 11 All. 

Tour 7 129 

8 145 

" 9 ■„ 156 

" 10 160 

Detours 146 

1 1" 

150 



MOUNTAINS, PEAKS, PASSES. 



Page. 

The Rockies 3 2- 53 

The Cascades 161-248 

The Olympia 243-248 

The Sheep 84 

The Elk 114 

Noted Peaks 237 

Gray's Peak 69 

Torre v ' s " 69 

LaPla'tta " 67 

Long's " 90 

Pike's " <j.s 

Various " 71 -s_s- 1 74 

Mt. Blanca 56 

" Holv Cross 85-87 

- " Hoo'd 222 

" Bross 74 

" Lincoln 74 

" Antero 77 

" Princeton 77 

" Shavano 77 

" Harvard 75 

" Yale 75 



Page. 

Mt. Klbert 76 

" Fletcher S( 

" Buckskin ,s=, 

" Nebo 154 

" Aspinwall 154 

" Tacoma 239 

" Rainier 229-233-239 

" Adams 229-233 

" St. Helens 229-233 

" Baker 247 

Passes- Fremont's 85 

Tennessee 87 

Alpine 79 

Breckenridge 82 

Lake Creek 76 

Chejenne 104 

Sherman 107 

Continental 117 

Aspen 123 

Three Tetons 171 

Stepto Butte 215 



KIVEItN. 



Page. 

Elkhorn 22 

Platte 23 

Loup Fork 25 

North Platte '.6 [15 

Kansas 37 

Solomon 43 

Smoky Hill 41 

Republican 41 

Arkansas 75 

Gunnison 80 

Blue 84 

Ten Mile 84 

Eagle 87 

Grand 88 

Roaring Fork *9 

Boulder 96 

Big Thompson 99 

Cache-a-la-Poudre 99-100 

Laramie 106-109 

Little Laramie 112 

Medicine Bow 1 13 

Popo Agie 116 

Green 121 

Black's Fork 122 

Bear 1 25 



Page. 

Weber 129-130 

Jordan 144 

.Sevier 155 

Logan 162 

Ross P"ork 169 

Snake 1 71-210 

Deer Lodge 171) 

Payette 199 

Weiser 199 

Powder 201 

Walla Walla 207 

Trouchet 209-219 

Ham's Fork 16s 

Port Neuf. 168 

Palouse 213 

Spokane 216 

Umatilla 205 

Columbia 217-258 

John Days 221 

De Chutes 222 

Hood 226 

Sandy 228 

Willamette 229-233 

Cowlitz 237 

Chehalis 238 



SPRINGS, ETC. 



Pagi 

Sharon \6 

Idaho 63 

Hot Sulphur 67 

Cottonwood 75 

Hortense 77 

Glenwood 89 

Ala 111 1 on 94 

W. n 111 -Salt Lake City 144 



Page 

Hot— Ogden i"" 

Soda [I i 

Warm— M on tana 180 

Hailey— Hot 187 

Guyer 189 

Hot— Boise n,~ 

Hot — Oregon 204 

Silver 237 



GENERAL INDEX-continued. 



STEAMER LINKS. 



Page. 

To Lewiston 211 

" Astoria 233 

" San Francisco 231 

" Alaska 249 

" The Dalles 256 



Page. 

To Whatcom 246 

" Port Townsend 248 

" Victoria, B. C 248 

" Olympia .'49 

" Seattle 241 



CITIES, TOWNS, STATIONS. 



Page. 

Abilene 43 

Adams 207 

Albana 230 

Albion 25 

Alpine 77 

Alpine Tunnel 79 

Alma 74 

Alta 147 

Alto 210 

Altus 105 

American Falls 1S2 

American Fork .....150 

Anaconda 1 79 

Arapahoe 46 

Archer 32 

Argo 59 

Arlington 220 

Armstrong 39 

Arvada 59 

Aspen, Colo 90 

Aspen , Wyo 1 23 

Astoria 234 

Baldwin 81 

Baker City 201 

Beatrice 22-41 

Beaver Brook 60 

Beaver Canon 172 

Beloit 43 

Berthond 99 

Bellevne 186 

Bellingham 246 

Belleville 43 

Big Springs 29 

Biggs 222 

Bingham Junction 146 

Bismark Grove 39 

Bitter Creek 118 

Black Buttes 11S 

Blackfoot 169 

Black Hawk 62 

Blalock's 220 

Bliss 192 

Boelus 26 

Boise City 195 

Bolles Junction 209 

Bolter Summit 1 50 

Bonneville 228 

Bordeaux 105 

Boreas S2 

Boulder 96 

Bountiful 140 

Brecken ridge 82 

Bridal Veil 22S 

Brighton 1 o 1 

Brookville 44 

Bran 127 

Bucoda 239 

Buena Vista 75 

Buford 107 

Butte City 17S 

Caldwell.". 198 

Camas 172 

Carbon 114 

Carter 123 

Carroll's 237 

Cascade Locks 22t> 

Castleton 81 

Castle Rock 91 

Castle Rock, Utah 127 

Castle Rock, Wash. T...237 

Cedar Fort 149 

Cedar Point 50 

Cedar Rapids 25 

Centerville (Oregon)... 207 
Central City, Neb 25 



Page. 

Central City, Colo 62 

Centralia 238 

Centre ville 139 

Chambers 156 

Cheyenne 103 

Cheyenne Wells 47 

Chehalis 238 

Chihuahua 84 

Chuckanut 246 

Chugwater 105 

Church Buttes 122 

Clay Centre, Neb 22 

Clay Centre, Kan 39 

Climax 85 

Clyde 43 

Coalville 129 

Colby 44 

Colfax 213 

Colilo 222 

Col Huston [(Si 

Colorado City 94 

Colorado Springs 92 

Columbus 25 

Como 73 

Concordia 43 

Cooper Lake 1 12 

Cottonwood 61 

Creston 117 

Dana 1 is 

David City 22 

Dayton 209 

Deer Lodge 180 

Denver 50-51 

Deuel 34 

Dewey 161 

Devil's Gate 134 

Diamond 213 

Dickey 84 

Dillon, Colo 84 

Dillon, Mont 177 

Dome Rock 71 

Draper 148 

P'agle Rock 171 

F^ast Portland 230 

F^aton 102 

F'cho 217 

F.cho City 127 

Edson ..." 1 15 

Hlberton 214 

F'lkhoru 22 

F;ilis 45 

Ellsworth 44 

Empire City 65 

Fndicott 213 

P'stabrook Park 71 

Esquimalt, B. C 249 

p;ureka 150 

Evans m 1 

Evanstoti 126 

Fairburv 22-26 

Fairfield, Nebl 22-26 

Fairfield, Utah [49 

Farmington, Utah 139 

Farmington, Wash. T..215 

Fairplay 73 

Fairview 228 

F'irst View 47 

Fort Collins 99 

Forks Creek 61 

Fort Morgan 34 

Fossil 165 

Franklin 163 

Fremont 23 

Fremont's Pass 85 

Frisco 155 



Page. 

Garfield 214 

Garfield Beach 156 

Garos 73 

Garrison [81 

Genoa 25 

Georgetown 65 

Gilmore 22 

Glenn's Ferry 192 

Glenwood Springs S9 

Golden 60 

Graymont 69 

Granite 76 

Grand Island 26 

Granger 122 

Granite Canon 107 

Grants 221 

Greeley 102 

Green River 119 

Grayline 177 

Gunnison City 80 

Gypsum .". 87 

Hailey [86 

Hampton 123 

Hancock 77 

Hays 45 

Hilliard 124 

Hill Top 74 

Holton 39 

Hood River 226 

Honey ville 161 

Horse Creek 104 

Hortense 77 

Hot Lake 204 

Hoxie 44 

Hunter 237 

Huntington 200 

Huntsville 209 

Hyde Park 163 

Idaho Springs 63 

Ironton, Utah 150 

Ironton, Wash. T 248 

Iron Mountain 105 

Islay 104 

Juab 134 

Julesburg 29 

Junction City 41 

Kalama 234-237 

Kansas City 37 

Kays ville 139 

Kearney 26 

Kelso 237 

Kenosha 71 

Ketchum t88 

Kimball 32 

Kit Carson 47 

Kokomo 84 

Kuna 193 

La Camas 257 

La Salle 35-i°i 

Lake View 239 

Lander 116 

Laramie City 110 

Lupton lor 

Lawrence 39 

Lawrenceburg 43 

Lawrence Junction 39 

Leadville 85 

Leavenworth 39 

Leduc 185 

Lehi 150 

Lehi Junction 149 

Levan 154 

Lewiston 211 

Lincoln >2 -11 

Lindsborg 44 



10 



GENERAL INDEX 



-CONTINUED. 



CITIES, TOWNS, STATIONS— Continued. 



Page. 

Lin wood 39 

Littleton "0-9 1 

Logan 162 

London 73 

Loveland 99 

lower Cascades 262 

Longmont 98 

Loup City 26 

Malta ." .*... 86 

Manitou 94 

Manhattan 41-22 

Market Lake 171 

Marysville 22-26-41 

Maxwell 217 

Medicine Row 1 14 

Melrose 177 

Mendon 162 

McCain mou 164 

McCool Junction 22 

McGees 75 

Mel'herson 44 

Mt. Carbon Si 

Millbrook 44 

Milfonl 155 

Milton 207 

Minidoka 1S4 

Minneapolis. 43 

Mirage 47 

Mima 154 

Monida 175 

Montpelier 166 

Montezuma 84 

Morrison 71) 

Moscow 214 

Mountain Home T92 

Mnltonomah 228 

Nampa 193 

Napavine 238 

Nathrop 77 

Nephi i.S4 

New Cambria 43 

Norfork 25 

North Platte City 27 

North Powder 202 

Nutria 165 

Oakley 46 

Oasis; 135 

Oconee 25 

O'Fallon 27 

Ogallala 2S 

Ogden 134-135 

Ogdensburg 41 

Ohio City 80 

Old's Ferry 200 

Olympia 250 

Omaha 19 

Ontario 198 

Ord 26 

Otto 107 

Oxford 164 

Palmer Lake 91 

Palouse Junction 212 

Papillion 22 

Parlins 80 

Park City 129 



Page. 

Payette [99 

Payson [53 

Pendleton 

Piedmont 1 23 

Picabo [85 

Pine Pluffs 32 

Pitkin No 

Platte Canon 70 

Platteville k>i 

Pleasant Grove i.sj 

Pleasant Valley 101 

Pocatello 169 

Point of Rocks 1 iS 

Port Blakelv 24 t 

Port Discovery 24* 

Port Hadlock" 248 

Port Townscnd 148 

Portland 229 

Preston [36 

Provo 152 

Pullman 213 

Rawlins 116 

Red Buttes 109 

Red Cliff 87 

Red Desert 1 18 

Red Rock 176 

Richmond 163 

Riparia 210 

Robinson 84 

Rock Creek 1 12 

Rock Springs 118 

Romley 77 

Rooster Rock 

Russell 44 

Saint Helens 234 

Salina 44 

Salt Lake City 141 

Salt Wells i us 

San Francisco 231 

Sandy ...14S 

Santaquin 154 

Saratoga 1 15 

Schuyler 25 

Schwanders 75 

Scotia 26 

Seatco 236 

Seattle ■ \ • 

Sehome 247 

Separation 117 

Sharon Springs 46 

Sherman [07 

Shoshone [84 

Sidney 30 

Silver Bow [78 

Silver City 1.50 

Silver Plume 68 

Soda Springs 166 

Solomon 43 

Squally Hook 221 

Spanish Fork ..153 

Spokane Falls 215 

Springfield 163 

Spring Hill 176 

Spriugville 153 

State Line 39 



Page. 

Sterling 33 

Stockton 159 

Strotnsburg 22 

St. Klmo 77 

Si. Mary's 40 

St. Paul. 26 

Summit 162 

Summerville ■ 1 

Sutton 22 

Table Rock lis 

Tacoma 240 

Teachout s.i 

Tenino 239-256 

Tehnessei Pass s; 

Tikura 185 

Tintic 150 

Tooele 159 

Topeka 40 

Irouchet 219 

Troutdale 22^ 

The Dalles 223 

TheTransfer 17 

Turn water 255 

Twin Lakes 76 

Uintah 1 54 

Umatilla 217 

Union 203 

Upper Cascades 262 

Uva 106 

Valley 22 

Valley Falls 39 

Valparaiso 26 

Vancouver 2s- 

Victoria, Kan 45 

Victoria. B. C 

Wa-Keeney 45 

Waldo 44 

Walkersville [79 

Wallace 46 

Walla Walla 208 

Wallula 219 

Wahoo 22 

Wain ego 40 

Wyandotte 38 

Warm Springs 1S0 

Wasatch 126 

Washougal 257 

\V;iii sburg 209 

Weatherby 201 

Weber 132 

Weir 29 

Weiser 199 

Wendover 106 

West Seattle | 

Weston 207 

Whatcom 247 

Wheatland 106 

Wheeler 84 

Willows 220 

Willows Junction 219 

Winlock 238 

Win ship 129 

Wolcott 115 

Velm Prairie 23c) 

Zurich 44 



11 



THE PRST RND PRESENT. 



It is in the memory of the writer when Ohio and Michigan were 
away out west; when stages arrived in New York regularly every 
day from Boston, ' 'weather permitting, ' ' and leaving as regularly for 
Philadelphia and the west. Buffalo and Pittsburgh were then the 
frontier towns. From the former two steamboats left, once a week, 
and a stage-wagon from Pittsburgh for the "Northwestern Terri- 
tory," now Ohio and Michigan. 

The entire white population residing west of the two cities 
above named numbered less than 25,000 and they were mostly 
hunters, trappers, and fur-traders, or refugees from justice in the 
east. 

The popular clamor in those days in the east for the settlement 
of the west found voice in a universal invitation as follows: 

"Come from every nation. 
Come from every way 
< )nr lands they are broad enough 

So don't be alarmed, 

For Uncle Sam is rich enough 

To give us all a farm." 

Thejr came, and from every nation — even from China, India and 
Japan. They came as the winds come when forests are reuded. 
They came as the waves come when navies are stranded. 

In 1849 Illinois was the extreme frontier. The gold discoveries 
in California were circulated in the east about that time and tens of 
thousands of adventurous men started by water around "Cape 
Horn," 20,000 miles, for this new El Dorado. Others, more ven- 
turesome pressed into service horses, mules and cattle and many 
varieties of conveyances, and boldly struck out towards the setting 
sun, across the then almost unknown trackless deserts and path- 
less mountains; many there were who started with hand-carts, 
propelling them themselves. 

Again, there were others who started on foot with only what 
they could pack on their backs, trusting to luck to get through to 
the gold fields. 

In 1855 Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and Illinois were supposed to 
contain the wheat-growing soil of the Union, and they became 
known as the "granaries of the states." At that time the extreme 
western limit of railroad travel was at East St. Louis and Rock 
Island, both in the state of Illinois. 

Then the "far west" — that almost mythical region — was what 
now constitutes those vast and fertile prairies which lie south and 
west of the great lakes and east of and bordering the Mississippi 
river; all beyond was a blank, or popularly thought to be a 
"howling wilderness, " inhabited only by Indians, wild nomads, 
and all the dangers of the inferno. 

About this date our hardy pioneers passed the "Rubicon" and 
the west receded before their advance; Missouri was peopled and 
the Father of Waters became the natural highway of a mighty 
commerce. 



12 awake! progress — awake! 



Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, and Iowa had 
joined the sisterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It 
traversed the Rocky mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon. 
But it passed by not unheeding the rich valleys and broad prairies 
of Nebraska and Kansas, which retained what became, with sub- 
sequent additions, a permanent and thriving population. 

In 1858-9 the gold discoveries in the "Pike's Peak country," 
now Colorado, caused another great rush "from every nation," 
and the population of California had increased to that extent, when 
it was added to the number comprising the great American Union; 
Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, and Kansas and Nebraska 
on the east, followed, and still the roads westward from the Mis- 
souri river were thronged with emigrants going west. They "came 
from every nation," etc. 

Congress Acts — The extraordinary developments in Califor- 
nia and Oregon prompted many far-seeing men in congress to 
advocate the building of a railroad across the continent. 

At that date Iowa and Missouri were the recognized frontier. 

Notwithstanding that Benton, Clarke and others had long urged 
the necessity and practicability of a railroad from the Missouri 
river to the Pacific coast, pointing out the wealth and power which 
would accrue to the country from its realization; the idea found 
favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the 
knowledge that even the loyal state of California was in danger of 
being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the 
leaders of the great rebellion; that a rebel force was forming in 
Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign 
and domestic machinations threatened the dismemberment of the 
Union its three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face 
could our national solons see the practicability of the scheme so 
earnestly advocated by Sargent, of California, and his able coadju- 
tors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion the govern- 
ment had little to offer for successful defense. 

Then, the building of the Pacific railroad across the continent 
became a great national necessity, and the charter was granted for 
the construction of the 

I nion Pacific Railroad — The building of this road was 
inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever 
known; for, without the pressure of the rebellion, the road would 
probably have remained in embryo for many years. 

Notwithstanding almost numberless insurmountable difficulties 
— financially and otherwise— the road was completed Mav 10th, 
1869. Then 

All was changed — The magnificent trains of the Union Pa- 
cific railroad rolled across the continent filled with emigrants and 
pleasure seekers through that region which only a few years be- 
fore was but a dim, undefined mythical expanse, supposed to be 
valueless for any purpose. How great the change from the ideal 
to the real, as this book will show. For over 300 miles after leav- 
ing Omaha and Kansas City, that vague "great American desert" 
proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can 
be found elsewhere under like geographical position. 

In this last decade the railroads from the east extended their 
lines westward to the Missouri river, and a full score soon adver- 
tised to making "close connections" with the pioneer overland. 



MARCH ON ! MARCH ON ! 13 



The Missouri Pacific was the first to reach the Missouri river at 
Kansas City, where it arrived October 1st, 1865. The Chicago & 
North-Western came next, to Council Bluffs, January 17th, 1867. 

The Central Pacific was the first to commence work on the 
trans-continental line at Sacramento, Februar}' 22d, 1863. Next 
came the Kansas Pacific [now of the Union Pacific system] Septem- 
ber 1st, 1863, and the Union Pacific commenced November 5th, 
1865. 

From 1869 to 1889, twenty years records a progress the most 
marvelous in the world's history. 

To-day — the superb coaches and palaces of this pioneer rail- 
road line, crossing the continent, are equipped in the most complete 
manner for speed, safety and comfort, and the trains roll across the 
plains and over the mountains to meet the far-off foam-crested 
waves of the Pacific ocean, which bear on their bosoms a mighty 
and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the 
Sandwich Islands, South America, and the famed Orient are at 
our doors. Also the marvelous wealth of our own west and north- 
west coast — California, Oregon, Washington and the rich Alaska 
and Puget Sound country. 

Three rich, powerful, populous and progressive states have 
arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missionaries among 
the savages were the only works of civilization; Colorado, too, 
joined the sisterhood, leaving Dakota, Idaho, Montana, Washing- 
ton, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona, to say nothing of Alaska, 
waiting the time, when they, too, shall add their names to the roll 
of honor and enter the union on an equality with the others, 
which, in point of population and wealth, they have long been 
entitled. Thus we see that the "far west" of to-day has become 
far removed from the west of three decades ago, and what is now 
the central portion of our great commonwealth was then the far, 
far west. 

\'ow — all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys 
and on the broad plains, are the homes, well cultivated fields, pro- 
lific orchards and vineyards, and countless flocks and herds of 
unnumbered thousand of hardy and brave pioneer settlers; thev 
"came from every nation," etc. At the same time the towering 
mountains, once the home of the skulking savage and wild beast, 
the deep gulches and gloomy canons are illuminated with the 
perpetual fires of hundreds of smelting furnaces; the ring of pick, 
shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all 
tell of the presence of the miner; and the streams of wealth which 
are daily loading great railroad trains and flowing into our 
national coffers are marvelous and continually increasing, for just 
in proportion as the individual becomes enriched, so does his 
country partake of his fortune. 

When we published our first trans-continental book, September 
1, 1869, the Missouri river was the recognized frontier line. It 
was there all travelers for the great unknown, toward the setting 
sun, congregated; it was there they bid good-bye to friends, or 
mailed their parting lines, many times with fearful misgivings for 
the future. 

In 1869, we secured a list of the equipments of the Union 
Pacific railroad. To contrast that date with the present, 20 years, 
we reproduce the figures, adding those for 1889. 



14 



1869—1889. 



EQUIPMENT FOR IS69. 

locomotives 

Pullman sleepers 

Pa ssenger cars 

second class 

Mail .mil express cars 

Caboose " 

Baggai^ " 

Box " 

Flat ' " 

Hand " 

Dump ' 

Coal " 

Bridge 

Gravel " 

Derrick " 

Wrecking " s 

Rubble " 

Cook " 

Powdei " 

Water tank ' 

Pay 

officers " 

President's " 



,885 
■472 
264 

47 
231 



Total equipment. 






EQUIPMENT FOR 1889. 

Locomotives, standard gauge 541 

narrow guage 143 

Snow plows 36 

Flaugers 19 

Pullman sleepers 55 

Coaches iy x 

Officers' cars 11 

Pay " 2 

Chair " 5 



Footings 

Baggage cars 

Mail cars 

Express cars 

Coach and baggage combined . 
Baggage, mail and express comb'd 

Baggage and mail combined 

Baggage and express combined... 

Excursion coaches 

Excursion and emigrant sleepers 

Coal hopper and dump cars 

Fruit " 

Caboose " 

Hand 

Box " 

" fast freight " .". 

" refrigerator " 

" furniture.. " 

Flat " 

Coal " 

Stock ■ 

Stock — combination " 

Outfit " 

Derrick " 

Wrecking tool " 

Pile driver " 

Water and tank " 

1 'low and scraper " 

Construction flat " 

Steam shovel " 



14 
89 
J07 



560 
7,823 

392 
403 
749 

1,294 
3,621 

1,435 

131 
22 

14 
16 

9 
6s 



Total equipment is 780 

Equipment, 1869 4. 547 

The increase of equipment '4,433 

Total number of employes 16.500 



We append the following curious item of information obtained 
through the courtesy of Mr. A. Trayuor, Gen'l Baggage Agent of 
the Union Pacific railway. 

"General Baggage Office, i 
"Council Bluffs, Iowa, Nov. 24th, 1888. J 
Statement of the business of the baggage department for years 
1883 to 1887, inclusive —five years. 



YEAR. 


NO. PIECES. 

r,475,5°8 
1,515.111 
[,228,262 
1,792,646 
2,049 

8,060,776 


EXCESS BAGGAGE. 


LOSS AND 
DAMAGE. 


RECEIVED FKV..M SALE 
EXCLAIMED. 


I88 3 
1884 
l88 5 

[886 

1887 


f 1 14,51 
92,040.20 
M.V 

(84.90 
101,661.42 


S460.55 

27.07 
60.00 
402.47 


S424-75 
421.15 

568..S' ' 

531.10 
727.32 


Total, 


$482, 990.09 


1 


$2,672.82 



Average per year of the total value of baggage handled, esti- 
mated at $150.00 perpiece, §120,911,040. Oil. 

Civilization has literally rolled across the continent. "Came 
from every nation, came from everyway," converting what was for 
ages supposed to be a wilderness into the most productive country. 

There is no longer any "desert," the mountains have been 
tunnelled or scaled, the plains have been spanned by various lines 
of railroad, the tide of emigration has reached the Pacific coast. 
New York is within four days and Europe within ten days of 
Puget sound. 

The manufacturing enterprise of the east has invaded the far 
west; factories are springing up in her cities and towns, and her 
vast mineral, lumber and fishery resources are being developed to 
a marvelous extent. Minesof gold and silver, producing $10,000,- 
(100 a year; of copper, $5,200,000 a year; saw-uiills, sawing 517,000 
feel of lumber a day; hop crops, valued at $1,500 per acre; wheat, 



PAST — PRESENT. 15 



140 bushels to the acre; barley, 65 bushels to the acre; four and a 
half tons of timothy to the acre, apples weighing 44 ounces, and 
wild strawberries eight inches in circumference, are among the 
productions of this "desert" country. A country where they catch 
fish by water power, rolling them into their big canneries in great 
streams, shipping hundreds of tons fresh, and 5,000,000 of cans 
annually. Where vast bodies of water fall sheer 2,000 feet, and 
in others shoot upwards, boiling hot, over 200 feet, where moun- 
tains elevate their peaks, snow-cappped, nearly 15,000 feet, and fear- 
ful chasms yawn to an unfathomable depth. 

In 1864 no railroad had reached the Missouri river frontier line, 
and the entire commerce of the Missouri valley and beyond was 
carried on by steam packets on the river from St. Louis, or by 
"prairie schooners" across the country. The materials for building 
the Union Pacific railroad all came up the Missouri river on boats, 
or were hauled on wagons across the state of Iowa for hundreds of 
miles. When the Union Pacific railroad was commenced, Omaha 
had a population of 2,500, now, 110,000; Kansas City, 3,600; now, 
165,000; Denver, 1,500; now, 80,000; Salt Lake City, 4,500; now, 
30,000; Portland, 300; now, 50,000, and scores of cities and towns 
containing populations now of from 5,000 to 25,000 were 
unknown then. 

At the present time there are over 900 cities and towns west 
of the old Missouri frontier line of 1860 that number their pop- 
ulation from 300 to 25,000 each, which have sprung into existence 
since that date. 



THE Pullman Palace Car Co. — Now operates this class of 
service on the Union Pacific and connecting lines. 

PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN ] I ;,'.','!h^ ' ' k' " .'m " 

New Vork and Chicago 

New York and St. Lonis 

Boston and Chicago 

Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 

Chicago and Denver 

St. Lonis and Kansas City 

St. Lonis and Omaha 

Kansas City and Cheyenne 

Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver I 

Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne | 

Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake 

Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden 

Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte... 

Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland 

C. Bluffs, Omaha or K. City and San Franciscoor LosAngeles 

Cheyenne and Portland 

Denver and Leadville 

Denver and Portland 

Denver and Los Angeles 

Den\ er and San Francisco 

Ogden and Butte 

. Ogden and Pocatello 

Pocatello and But te 



5 5.00 


• i B.i 10 


6.oo 


22.00 


5-5<J 


20.00 


2.50 


9.00 


6.00 


21.00 


2.00 


7.00 


2.50 


9.00 


( .Vi 


16.00 


3-50 


12.00 


4.00 


14.00 


8.00 


28.00 


8.00 


28.00 


9-5° 


36.00 


13.00 


50.00 


[3.00 


50.00 


10.00 


38.00 






10.00 


38.00 


11.00 


42.00 


11.00 


42.00 


3-50 


12.00 


2.00 


7.00 


r.50 


6.00 






I. SO 





Pocatello and Ogden Seat 

Butte and Pocatello " 



Family Sleepers — This railway company, for the special 
accommodation of their second-class passengers, runs family sleep- 
ing cars on the Pacific express daily. These cars are fitted up com- 
plete with mattresses, curtains, blankets, pillows, etc., and are 
under the general management of Messrs. Barkalow Bros., the 
veteran news agents of the system, and are provided with uniformed 
porters, who keep them in good order and look after the wants of 
the passengers. No smoking is allowed in these cars, and none 



16 PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY. 

but second-class passengers are permitted to occup}- them. The 
charges are $5 for a section between Council Bluffs and Los 
Angeles, or 82.50 for lower or upper double berth — intermediates, 
50 cents per night. 

Free Sleeping Cars— Without upholstering or bedding, are 
also run on the Pacific express daily, passengers furnishing their 
own mattresses, blankets, etc. 

The "Golden Gate Special," a view of which will be found 
opposite the title page of this book, is said to be the finest equipped 
passenger train that ever rolled a wheel in America, or in the world. 
It consists of five magnificent vestibuled Pullman cars, Golden 
Gate, Casa Monica. Kahiva, Rahula and Aladdin. 

These cars are fitted up most sumptuously arid are provided 
with every luxury known to modern travel. Besides sleeping, 
dining, lunch and steam heating, there are private bath-rooms, 
with hot and cold water, for both ladies and gentlemen, library, 
writing materials, electric light, barber shop, and smoking and 
observation rooms. 

This train makes few stops between Council Bluffs and San 
Francisco — distance 1,867 miles; time, 61 hours and 45 minutes; 
an average of a trifle over 30 miles an hour including stops. Fare, 
si (II I, including 150 pounds of baggage. Excess baggage not 
allowed, but can come on following regular train. 

On our Route Westward the traveler will have food for 
thought in the remembrance that where school houses and churches 
dot the landscape, less than twenty years ago roamed the buffalo and 
Indian nomads; where sage-brush and prairie dogs were the most 
numerous, are fenced fields and fields of grain; the "lowing herds" 
have taken the place of the noble game and the ignoble coyote; 
where later ranged the cowboy's herd, are now the plows followed 
by seedtime and harvest; the lumbering stage coach, the "prairie 
schooner," the emigrant team have all given place to the comfort- 
able railroad train with its elegant coaches, palace, family and 
tourist sleeping cars. The wealth of all the crowned heads in the 
world can buy no greater comforts or luxuries than can be had on 
a trip by rail across the continent to-day for One Hundred 
Round Dollars. 



Passage Ticket Memoranda. 



Baggage Check Memoranda. 



COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA. 17 



OUR STARTING PLACE. 



Tlie Transfer — the initial point of the Union Pacific rail- 
road — is in the state of Iowa, on the east side of the Missouri 
river opposite the city of Omaha and about midway between the 
river and the city of Council Bluffs — on the river bottom, which is 
at this point about three miles in width. Here, the railway 
company have erected a 

Union Depot — a model of convenience. It is built of brick 
with stone trimmings, two stories, 3-30 feet in length, from north 
to south, with wings 50 feet wide extending westward from each 
end about 800 feet, with long platforms on the inside 15 feet in 
width. Between the platforms and wings are four tracks on which 
stand the trains of the Union Pacific, bound westward. Covering 
all platforms and trains, are long corrugated iron roofs affording 
ample protection against storms, heat and cold. The second story 
of the main building is used for hotel purposes and contains 40 
rooms besides elegant parlors all furnished in the most comfort- 
able manner, and provided with hot and cold water and all the 
modern improvements. The first floor of the northern portion 
of the main building contains two large waiting rooms for ladies 
and gentlemen ; ticket, telegraph and telephone offices ; lunch 
counter and news stand, and a bar and barber shop. In the north 
wing is a well appointed dining room capable of seating 200 
persons. A short distance further westward is located the " Emi- 
grant House," which was built by the railroad company, and is 
run by their direction for the accommodation and protection of their 
emigrant passengers. The building is of wood, has 70 rooms com- 
fortably furnished, accomodates 200 persons, and charges only 
sufficient to cover cost ; plain substantial meals, 25 cents each. 
" Runners " and "hoodlums" are not allowed about the premises. 
In the southern part of the main building and in the south wing 
are located the baggage, mail and express rooms, also the principal 
office of Mr. A. Traynor, the general baggage agent of the Union 
Pacific Railway system. 

Transfer Connections — At the eastern front of the Union 
Depot building, arrive and depart the regular passenger trains of 
the following named railroads: Chicago & North- Western ; Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy ; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific ; Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul ; Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs ; 
Wabash Western ; and the Sioux City & Pacific. Between the 
tracks of these roads are long covered platforms over which 
passengers, mails, baggage, etc., reach the trains or depot. All 
passengers from the east, after passing through the depot, will 
find the Union Pacific west bound trains ^waiting on the west side. 

The Transfer Grounds— as they are called — to the south 
and west of the depot are very extensive, covering several thous- 
and acres. On these " grounds " are a number of large grain eleva- 
tors and buildings belonging to the railroad company, besides a 
bewildering collection of railroad rolling stock. Here, one can read 
on the cars the names of hundreds of railroads — strays, from all 
parts of the United States and Canada. 



18 GETTING READY TO START. 

STREET Cars — leave from a platform at the north end of the 
depot for Council Bluffs every five or ten minutes; fare five cents. 

Dummy Trains — as they are called — are steam trains run by 
the Union Pacific between Council Bluffs and Omaha every half- 
hour for local business. Some of these trains are provided with 
cars suited to drive carriages and teams upon, and also live stock. 
When eastern trains arrive at the transfer "on time" passengers 
for Omaha often take the " dummy " and reach the Omaha depot 
about one hour before arrival of the regular Overland train. 

Before Starting — The time usually o«. cupied at the transfer 
before starting west by the regular trains, is about one hour, pro- 
vided, the eastern trains are "on time." This hour is consumed 
in transferring the baggage, mails, express, etc. 

Check Your Baggage. — Unless passengers hold through tick- 
ets and know that their baggage has been checked to their destina- 
tion, they will need see to re-checking it at this depot. 

SLEEPING Cars. — If you desire to procure sleeping berths, and 
have not already done so, you will need to attend to it at this 
depot. — See car rates on preceding pages. 

gglfSleeping car and stop-over privileges are not allowed on 
second and third-class tickets. Baggage can be checked only to 
the destination of second and third-class tickets. — See baggage 
rates also on preceding pages. 

Meae Stations — Most of the meal stations on the Union 
Pacific Railway system are at convenient points where the com- 
pany have erected large and commodious hotels which are con- 
ducted under their supervision, by the Pacific Hotel Co. Meals, 
75 cents. At these houses passengers who choose can "stop over" 
and enjoy a comfortable rest, at a charge of $3 per day. 

Lunches — At most of the meal stations, "lunch counters" 
are provided, where sandwiches, cakes, pies cold meats, etc., 
with coffee, tea and milk, can be procured, that are very good and 
at reasonable charges. 

Lunch Baskets — Those who choose to provide themselves 
with baskets of lunch can, most always, procure hot coffee and 
tea at the stations, — and milk for that matter. In case of sickness 
or delayed trains from any cause, a well-supplied lunch basket to 
some when needed — is worth a million. 

FiNAtEY — If the reader is starting out on this trip for pleas- 
ure, for real solid enjoyment — it might be well for us to suggest 
that the past be forgotten, and to seek to live only for the present. 
If you are puffed up with eastern or city prejudices against every- 
body and everything in the west — formed possibly by reading 
"Wild Bill" literature — lay them aside ! leave them at the Transfer 
until your return; you should also lay off the dress-coat of style 
and don the wrapper of simplicity and ease, and for this once in 
your life if never again — be natural, and be on the alert, with 
eyes and ears, while rambling among nature's loveliest and grand- 
est creations. Having done this, you will be prepared to enjoy 
the trip — to appreciate the scenes which will rise successively be- 
fore you. But, above all, forget everything but the journey, and 
in this consists the^ra^ secret of having a good time generally. 

Old Mother Eve's curtain lectures must have been rib-roasts. 



OMAHA — NEBRASKA. 19 



"AH Aboard" ! — The bell rings, and our train glides away 
to the westward and is soon crossing the Missouri river on the 
great 

Union ■ Pacific Bridge. — This bridge is a "Post-patent" — the 
hollow iron columns are 22 in number, two forming a pier. These 
columns are made of cast iron If inches thick, 8J feet in diameter, 
10 feet long, and weigh eight tons each. They are bolted together, 
air-tight, and sunk to the bed-rock of the river, in one case 82 feet 
below low-water mark. 

After these columns are seated on the rock foundation, they are 
filled up 20 feet with stone concrete, and from the concrete to the 
"bridge seat", they are filled with regular masonry. From high- 
water mark to the "bridge seat, " these columns measure 50 feet. 
The 11 spans are 250 feet in length, making the iron part, between 
abutments, 2,750 feet. The approaches are about the same length. 
By recent additions to the original structure the bridge has now a 
double track for cars, and also for teams. 

Omaha Depot — Is reached soon after crossing the bridge. 
It is a large building with one enormous span overhead, built in 
the most substantial manner of brick, iron and glass, with six 
tracks running through it from end to end. On the south side are 
two waiting rooms for ladies and gentlemen, ticket, telegraph, tel- 
ephone, baggage and express offices — also a news stand, a bar and 
a lunch counter. 

Passengers who wish to stop over, will find omnibusses and 
carriages at the west end of the depot to take them and their bag- 
gage to the hotels, or any point in the city of Omaha; fare 50 
cents; or, they will find horse and motor street cars a few hun- 
dred feet from the northwest corner of the depot building that 
leave every five minutes, passing the principal hotels, and running 
to all parts of the city — fare five cents. 

Omaha — [Pop., about 110,000] — This is one of the most pro- 
gressive cities in the west, having more than doubled its popula- 
tion and business within the last five years. It is the seat of 
Douglas county, situated on the western bank of the Missouri 
river, on a gradual slope about 50 feet above high-water mark, 
with an elevation of 1,032 feet above sea level. The first settle- 
ment was made in 1854, and named for the Omaha Indians who 
then possessed the country. Omaha, from a mud-hole in 1880, has 
become the best paved city in the west. It has all the substantial 
and modern improvements of the times, and abounds in business 
palaces of brick, stone and iron, with smelting furnaces, grain 
elevators, packing houses, distilleries, immense stock and lumber 
yards, machine shops and foundries, as well as scores of manu- 
facturies of all kinds. Besides the Union Pacific bridge, another 
spans the Missouri, with carriage and foot ways and electric 
motor cars between the city and Council Bluffs. 

The city of Omaha is provided with ample banking capital, 
scores of hotels, chief of which are the Millard, Paxton and 
Murray; and four daily and a number of weekly newspapers. 

The Board of Trade— with a large membership of active 
workers, has been an important factor in promoting and stimulat- 
ing the general prosperity of the city. 

The headquarters of the Department of the Platte, is located at 
Omaha. 



20 ALL ABOARD — FAREWELL OMAHA. 

Fort Omaha — Established in 1868, is located three miles 
north of the city — occupies 80 acres. There is an excellent car- 
riage road to the Fort, and is quite a popular drive, affording par- 
ties an opportunity to witness the dress parades of the "boys in 
blue." 

The Fort is commanded by Col. Frank Wheaton, 2d Infantry 
and is the headquarters of and garrisoned by A. B. C. D. E. F. 
G. H. I. and K. companies. 

Belt Railroad — Is the name of a road which connects the 
principal large manufacturing establishments, elevators, lumber 
yards, packing houses, stock yards, etc., with the different freight 
depots of the different railroads centering in the city. 

General Offices. — The general offices of the Union Pacific 
Railway Co. are located in Omaha in a large building sit- 
uated on the bluffs in the eastern part of the city in a conspicuous 
position, overlooking the river for many miles up and down, and 
the country opposite, Council Bluffs and the Transfer grounds. 

The general offices of the Burlington & Missouri River Rail- 
road Co. , are also located in Omaha. 

Railroad Shops — About one mile north from the Omaha de- 
pot, on the low-lands fronting the river, the Union Pacific Railway 
Co. have located their principal machine shops and store-houses. 
They are built of brick, in the most substantial manner, and 
with the outbuildings, lumber yard, tracks, etc., cover about 80 
acres of ground. 

The machine shop is furnished with all the new and most im- 
proved machinery which is necessary for the successful working 
of all the branches of locomotive and car construction or repairs. 
The company manufacture nearly all of their own cars. It is 
very generally conceded of late years, that the passenger cars, in 
point of neatness, finish, strength of build and size, are unsur- 
passed by any, and equaled by few manufacturers elsewhere. It 
is the expressed determination of the Union Pacific Co. to 
provide as good cars and coaches for the traveling public in style 
and finish as those of any eastern road. They reason that as 
their great Trans-Continental railroad system is the longest and 
grandest on the continent, its rolling stock should be equally 
grand and magnificent. From the appearance of the cars already 
manufactured, they will doubtless achieve their desires. On the 
same principal, we propose to make our book superior to any and 
all others. — Haven'' t we done so? 



Connections — By rail, are: Burlington & Missouri River:Missouri Pacific and 
Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha; Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, and- 
Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley railroads. 



All Aboard — We are going west. There are nearly 300 
others. Many are the parting words between friends who go 
and those who stay. "Farewell." Ah! what a world of mean 
ing in that one word. We heard that word, over 20 years ago, 
under trying circumstances. We shall never forget it. The 
mouldering headboard still stands — we see it many times each 
year, and it always says "farewell!" We are again going that 
way. Two hours pass, we are entering the "buffalo range " of 25 
years ago; six hours, we are in the midst of the range — on the 



GARDNER SPRINGS. 



21 




GARDNER SPRINGS — NATIONAL PARK. 



broad plains. It was from here— westward where the "noble red- 
man," less than 20 years ago, was wont to choose his victims, and 
the time and place at his leisure. We know him. The crumbling 
head-board of two of his numerous victims still stands. We buried 
them both in one grave, rolled up in their blankets. A wagon seat 
served as a tombstone to mark the place, upon which our "jack 
knives" carved their names. "Farewell" was the last word— it 
was a low whisper. Two arrows and a rifle bullet did the work. 
In 1874 the Indian that did the deed was a guest of the govern- 



22 VALLEY AND CONNECTIONS. 

ment, and walked the platform of Cooper Union, in New York. 
He is now on a reservation, taking his rations regularly. It was on 
Pole creek, near Sidney, during the construction of this railroad. 
But those trying times have passed, never to return. The buffalo 
is gone, the Indian has gone from the trail, yet the word "fare- 
well " is ever a sad reminder of the past; so, if we sometimes con- 
trast the present with the past, could one marvel ? 

Leaving Omaha, our train climbs the world over 100 feet in the 
first four miles. We pass in that distance large grain elevators, 
great lumber yards, warehouses, manufactories of different kinds, 
government store-houses, and the monster stock yards and pack- 
ing houses of South Omaha. From this point our descent is rapid, 
dropping down 157 feet in the next six miles, to Gilmore, or to an 
altitude of 985 feet above sea level, the lowest point on the whole 
line. 

From Gilmore our iron horse will have gradual up grade to 
to Sherman, 539 miles, the highest elevation on the main overland 
line, 8,247 feet above sea level; but, before we are through with 
thts Tour, we will stand on the highest point ever reached by a 
railroad train in the world, 11,596 feet above sea level. 



Papillion — (Pap-e-o) — 15 miles from Omaha is a small 
station on the river of that name, in the midst of of a thuifty farm- 
ing community. In the next two miles we pass under the track 
of the Missouri Pacific railroad, and proceeding, cross the Elk- 
horn river, 11 miles beyond. 

The Elkhorn river is nearly 300 miles in length. It rises among 
the hills of the divide, near the head-waters of the Niobrara. It 
is the oldest settled portion of the state of Nebraska, north of the 
Platte river. The valley of the Elkhorn averages about eight 
miles in width, and is of the best quality of farming land. The 
settlers are mostly Germans of the thrifty class, with good houses, 
fine orchards of fruits, well cultivated farms, and comfortable and 
pleasant surroundings. 

Valley — Is a junction station, six miles west of Elkhorn, and 
35 miles from Omaha, situated on the Platte river bottom, sur- 
rounded by farms, where the principal products are corn and hay. 



Connections by rail are: Omaha & Republican Valley branch of the 
Union Pacific railway. It commences at Valley station, and runs in a south- 
western direction crossing the Platte river within a few miles. Wahoo is 
reached in a run of 18 miles, and 19 miles further Valparaiso — where turning 
south 20 miles brings us to Lincoln, the capital of the state of Nebraska. 
From Lincoln it is 40 miles to Beatrice, and 37 miles more to Marysville 
— in the state of Kansas. Continuing south 011 the same branch, it is 56 miles 
to Manhattan, on the Kansas division of the Union Pacific, 225 miles from 
Omaha. 

O. & R. V. — Steomsisurg branch — runs west from Valparaiso, and reaches 
David City in 23 miles, and Stromsburg in 34 miles further — 128 miles 
from Omaha. 

The line turns south from Stromsburg, reaching York in 17 miles, and 
McCool Junction, eight miles further. 

The Fairbury line leaves the "junction," and runs southeast 50 miles to 
Fairbury, where connections are made with the St. Joseph & Grand Island 
railroad. From Fairbury it is 40 miles to Marysville, 153 miles to St. Joseph, 
and 99 miles to Grand Island. 

The Alma line leaves the "junction," runs southwest, through Sutton, 
and Ci.ay Center, 39 miles to Fairfield, where connections are made with 
the St. Joseph & Grand Island railroad, by which it is 56 miles to Fairbury; 96 
miles to Marysville; 209 miles to St. Joseph, and 43 miles to Grand Island.-At Fair- 
field, the Alma line runs southwest via Wilcox — 97 miles— to Alma, 280 miles 
from Omaha. 

B. asks, "Does it pay to be good ? " It does when the business becomes fully 
established, but you've got to sink a great deal of money in the start. 



STOCK FEEDING — PEATTE RIVER. 23 

The whole country, tributary to these "branches," is thickly 
settled with thrifty farmers, and the lands are very rich, and capa- 
ble of producing all kinds of farm produce in abundance, and to 
perfection. However, corn is the principal crop, and raising and 
fattening hogs, the chief source of wealth — corn and hogs are the 
staples, and hog and hominy the diet — yet, if one should call 
the people "hoggish" they would all bristle up at once. 



Fremont — [Pop., 5,000; from Valley, 12 miles; Omaha, 46 miles; eleva- 
tion 1,192].— Is the seat of Dodge county, situated in the midst of the 
richest and most productive portion of the Platte valley, which 
here stretches awa)' in all directions as far as the eye can reach. 
The city is provided with all the modern improvements, and is the 
seat of much wealth. Besides the Union Pacific, it is connected 
with the northeast country by the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri 
Valley railroad. 

Stock Feeding — For 300 miles west of Omaha, on the line of 
the Union Pacific road, within the last few years, stock feeding 
has become a very important and profitable business. The rapid 
settlement of the eastern and central portions of Nebraska since 
the completion of the various railroad lines traversing it, has grad- 
ually contracted the public ranges until, at the present time, all 
the "range cattle " are crowded into the western part of the state, 
and into Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Montana. Feed- 
ing ranches or stations, have been established at many points along 
the line of the railroad, where stock from the western ranges are 
received by train loads and fed and fattened for the eastern markets. 
Many of these feeding places are close to the railroad, with side- 
track accommodations for loading and unloading. They consist 
of a number of large buildings for storing feed, long sheds, and 
numerous corrals for stock. In the corrals are many long troughs 
for feed and others for fresh water. A few of these places are 
very extensive, and fitted up without regard to cost. Some are 
owned by those who are engaged in raising range stock in the 
west, while others are owned by those who buy cattle, sheep, etc., 
where they can do the best. The stock is shipped from the west 
to these feeding places, and fed with hay, corn and other fattening 
feed until they are in a satisfactory condition, when they are 
shipped to the eastern markets— to Omaha, Kansas City, Chi- 
cago, etc. 

To the farming community the establishment of these "feed- 
ing" stations has brought joy. They no longer burn their corn 
for fuel, but raise and gather all they can, and they find a ready 
cash market at home for all their hay, corn and feed. While 
wheat is yet an important crop, and all kinds of grain and vegeta- 
bles can be grown successfully in all parts of the state, east of 
North Platte city, corn and hay are the chief staples on which 
the farmer must always depend to bring him the largest and quick- 
est returns for his investment and labor, as " feeding " stations are 
sure to multiply rapidly in the near future, as the ' ' range ' ' is 
crowded still further west by the rapid settlement of the country. 

The Platte River — Leaving Fremont, we draw near the 
Platte river, and are' fairly launched on the broad plains of 
Nebraska. For 326 miles we shall follow the course of the river, 
and for many miles shall pass closely along its northern bank; at 



24 YE OLDEN TIMES. 



other times the course of the river can only be traced by the tim- 
ber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features 
now, dotted here and there with :; planted groves of cottonwood 
trees, in the midst of which may be seen the settler's home, sur- 
rounded by his fields and industries. 

Before the railroad, the south bank of the Platte was one broad 
thoroughfare, whereon the long trains of freighters and emigrants 
with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away 
for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Then it was, that 
these plains were covered with buffalo, antelope, deer and smaller 
game, and infested by white outlaws, squaw-men and bloodthirsty 
Indians. At that time there was no travel on the north side of the 
river below Big Springs station, but beyond that station, the trav- 
eler of to-day can catch a glimpse here and there of a lone grave, 
marked by a rude head-board ; and, had he time, opportunity and 
skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which 
it is decorated, he will learn that it marks the last resting place of 
some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down 
here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave 
it ; or, perchance, he will learn that the tenant of this lone grave 
fell while defending his wife and family from the savages who 
attacked the train in the gray dawn or darker night. There is a 
sad, brief history connected with each, told to the passer-by, may- 
haps in rude lines, possibly by the broken arrow or bow, rudely 
drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the 
early emigrants may have been, it- can never be charged to them 
that they neglected the sick or dead within the train. The sick 
were tenderly nursed, and the dead decently buried, and their 
graves marked by the men who had shared with them the perils of 
the trip. Those were the days, and these plains the place that tried 
men's mettle ; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to 
all others who ventured to cross the " vast desert " which stretched 
its unknown breadth between him and the land of his desires. 
Brave, cool and wary as the savage, with his unci ring- rifle on his 
arm, he was more than a match for any red devil he might en- 
counter. Patient under adversity, fertile in resources, he was an 
invaluable aid at all times ; a true friend, and bitter foe. This 
type of people is fast passing away. 

The Platte river rises in the mountains of Colorado — the 
South Fork in the South Park and the North Fork in the North 
Park — while the South Fork runs nearly east, the North Fork 
runs north, for over 100 miles, and then turns eastward and south- 
ward and unites with the South Fork, near North Platte city. The 
channels in these rivers, during high water, is continually shifting, 
caused by the vast quantity of sand which is continually floating 
down their muddy tides. The sand is very treacherous, too, and 
woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross before he has be- 
come acquainted with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced 
Jp the river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous 
task. In crossing, in the old freighting days, if anything went 
wrong, and the train come to a stop, down it would sink in the 
yielding quicksand, until the wagons were so firmly bedded that it 
required more than double the original force to pull them out; and 
often they must be unloaded to prevent the united teams from pull- 

* Before the railroad there was not a tree growing on the plains except along 
the bed of the streams. 




YELLOWSTONE NflTIONfiL PARK. 

Page 172. 



FORTY MILE TANGENT. 25 

ing them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from 
the sandy bed. The streams are generally very shallow in the fall 
and winter. The South Fork, above North Platte, of late years is 
often dry for months in the summer, owing to the water being all 
turned into the irrigating canals of Colorado. 



Schuyler — [Pop., 2,000; from Fremont, 29 miles]. — Is the seat of Col- 
fax county. Does a large business in wheat shipments, and is a 
growing and enterprising town. 



Connections by rail are Burlington & Missouri River railroad. 



i ol litlllHI* — [Pop. ,3,000; from Schuyler, 16 miles; Omaha, 91 miles]. 
It is the seat of Platte county. In 1864 it was the frontier town 
in Nebraska — there were few settlers beyond. 

Columbus — from its location in the midst of the finest agricul- 
tural lands in the Platte valley, with the rich valleys of the Loup 
and Elkhorn, on the north, reached by rail, has advantages that 
will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabi- 
tant. 

In the "sixties" Mr. George Francis Train called Columbus 
the geographical centre of the United States, and advocated the 
removal of the National Capitol to this place. But we fear the 
removal will not come in our time, so we shall not buy any corner 
lots on the strength of the possibility. 

Connections — Omaha & Republican Valley — The Norfolk branch runs 
north from Columbus, 50 miles to Norfolk, on the Elkhorn river, in the midst 
of as rich a farming section as can be found in the state. 

At Oconee, nine miles from Columbus, a branch turns westward to Genoa 
ii miles, and to albion, 22 miles further. 

At Genoa, a branch runs West to Cedar Rapids, 30 miles. 

The branches aggregate 114 miles. 

Also connect with the Burlington & Missouri River railroad 



After leaving Columbus Loup Fork river is crossed. This 
stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte city, and runs 
through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte. 
Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream and its nu- 
merous tributaries. These little streams water a section of coun- 
try unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in 
abundance is found in the.valley of the Loup, consisting of deer, 
antelope, turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound 
in ducks and geese. 

Just after crossing Loup Fork our train enters upon a tangent 
40 miles in length, where the track is laid as straight as it is 
possible to build a road. In going west, when the sun is low in 
the horizon, it is directly ahead; and, at certain seasons of the 
year, the view is very beautiful. The telegraph poles on each 
side present two solid walls of timber, surmounted with endless 
lines of sparkling wires, and the railroad tracks between are of 
dazzling brightness. When the fields are golden with the harvest, 
and the landscape at its best, this view rivals the most marvelous^ 
stories ever conceived in childhood's fairy dream. 



Passing Central City, the seat of Merrick county, 41 miles 
from Columbus, another run of 21 and our train stops at the best 
meal station on the whole line of road. 



26 GRAND ISLAND— NORTH PLATTE RIVER. 

OrtllKl ImIcIIMI — [Pop., 10,000; from Omaha, 153 miles; elevation i860 
feet]. — Is the seat of Hall county, and is the largest and most im- 
portant business place and railroad junction on the main line of 
the Union Pacific Railway west of Omaha. 

At this place the railroad company have extensive machine 
and repair shops, where are employed several hundred men. The 
largest steam flouring mills and grain elevators in the state are 
located here. There are a great number of large brick business 
blocks, with stores, shops, hotels and many small manufactories of 
different kinds, all of which seem to be doing a prosperous busi- 
ness. 

This station was named for an island in the Platte — two miles 
distant — one of the largest in the river, being about 30 miles in 
length by four in width. 

When the railroad reached this city in 1866, buffalo were 
quite numerous, their range extending over 200 miles to the west- 
ward. In the spring, these animals were wont to cross the Platte 
from the Arkansas and Republican valleys, where they had win- 
tered, to the northern country, returning again, sleek and fat, late 
in the fall. Gradually their numbers decreased on this range, 
until 1873, when they entirely disappeared. But at Julesburg, 219 
miles west, a small band was seen to cross the river as late as 1S76. 
In, 1860 immense bands were on these plains. On the south side 
of the Platte, on the old emigrant road, the number was so large 
that often emigrant teams had to stop while they were crossing 
the road. At Fort Kearney, on the south side of the river, in 1860, 
an order was issued by the Post Commander, forbidding the 
soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground. 



Connection's by rail are : Omaha .t Republican Valley. 

From Grand Island, the " Ord" branch runs north, 21 miles, to St. Paul; 
thence 24 miles to Scotia, and 15 miles more to the end of the track at Ord, 
situated on Loup Fork river, 60 miles from Grand Island. 

From St. Paul, a branch runs northwest, iS miles, to Boelus, thence 21 miles 
to Lour City. 

From Boelus, a branch runs to the southwest — nine miles to Nantasket. 
Total mileage of branches, 10S. 

Also connect with Burlington & Missouri River railroad. 

Also St. Joseph & Grand Island railroad; from Grand Island this line runs 
to the southeast and east, crossing the Platte river and reaching Hastings, in 
25 miles ; thence iS miles to Fairfield ; thence 56 miles to Fairbury ; thence 
to Marysville, 40 miles, and 113 miles more to St. Joseph, 252 miles from 
Grand Island. 



Leaving Grand Island, for the west, the country presents about 
the same general appearance as to the east. Well cultivated farms, 
and the comfortable homes of the enterprising settlers are to be 
seen on all sides. To North Platte city it is 138 miles, and there 
are 23 stations in that distance, located about six miles apart. 
These stations vary in population from a few hundred to 5,000, 
K karney being the largest, 42 miles west of Grand Island. 

North PlaTTE River. — This stream is crossed about one mile 
before arriving at North Platte city. It has already been referred 
to. We shall cross it again at Fort Fred Steele, 402 miles further 
west. Its general characteristics are similar to those of the South 
Platte. 

For 125 miles up this river, the "bottom lands " are from three 
to 15 miles wide, very rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though, 
perhaps, requiring irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this 
^valley, and bands of wild horses, in 1862, were numerous. 



NORTH PLATTE CITY — O'FALLON'S BLUFFS. 27 

Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from the junction, near where 
the Laramie river unites with this stream. 

On the west bank of the river, SO miles north, is Ash Hollow, 
rendered famous by General Harney, who gained a decisive vic- 
tory over the Sioux Indians here, many years ago. 



\ortll I'ltlllO C-ily — [Pop., 3,000; from Omaha, 291 miles; elevation, 
2,796 feet], — Is the seat of Lincoln county, and is the headquarters 
of the largest live stock interests in the state — horses, cattle and 
sheep. 

Settlers' homes, and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and 
horses are to be seen in every direction. The advantages of this 
place, as a stock range and shipping point, exceed all others on 
the line of road. 

Some of the "cattle barons" here count their herds to 20,000 
and more, while scores can "round up" from 3,000 to 5,000 head. 
In this country, a man that only owns a "little bunch" of 500 or 
1,000 head, is counted a "poor shoat", one to be pitied. 

The railroad company have a large hotel here, wdiere all the 
regular passenger trains stop 80 minutes for meals. Machine and 
repair shops are also located here. 

The railroad was completed to this place in November, 1866, 
and until its completion to Julesburg, in June, 1867, all the freight 
and supplies for the west were shipped on wagons from this place. 
During that time the place was a lively town, and we might re- 
mark a "red hot " town. Then, the gamblers, the roughs and scal- 
awags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their pres- 
ence, lived in clover — for there were hard-working, foolish men 
enough in the town to afford them an easy living. When the town 
began to decline, these leeches followed up the road, cursing with 
their upas blight every camp and town, until an enraged and long- 
suffering community arose in their own defense, binding them- 
selves together, a la vigilantes, and, for want of a legal tribunal, 
took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first pro- 
jection high and strong enough to sustain their worthless car- 
casses. But many "moved on," and we shall hear of them again 
many times before we are through. 

From North Platte city our course is more to the westward, 
crossing the great delta of the two rivers, 18 miles in length, and 
only a few feet above highwater in the streams. It is now a 
great hay meadow. 

O'Falloil* — [17 miles from North Platte city], — Is a lone station in 
the sand hills, of little interest to the traveler, but opposite, on 
the south side of the river is a point quite noted in early days. 

O'Fallons Bluffs — Is a series of sand hills interspersed with 
ravines and gulches, which come close to the river's bank, form- 
ing abrupt bluffs which, in the early days referred to, turned the 
emigrants back from the river, forcing them to cross these sand 
hills, a distance of four miles, through loose yielding sand, devoid 
of vegetation. Here, as well as at all points where the bluffs come 
near the river, the emigrants used to suffer severely at times 
from the attacks of the Indians and white outlaws. 

As few single teams could haul a loaded wagon over the 
"bluffs" it became necessary to "double up", leaving half the 
wagons and hauling the first half across the "hills", and then 



28 OGALLALA — INDIAN WRECKERS. 

corne back for the second half. As a consequence, the wagons 
and force of men with the train was divided and the men scat- 
tered over the route, thus affording the Indians — who might be 
lurking in the ravines near, but out of sight — the opportunity de- 
sired to rob and murder a large party with little risk to themselves. 
The opportunity offered almost every day from 1859 to 1866, and 
scarcely a month passed during that time without some depreda- 
tions being committed at this place. 

Opposite the "bluffs " is a lovely island in the river, that was — 
until the railroad arrived — a noted camping ground for the Ara- 
pahoe and Sioux Indians ; it is now a fine ranch or hay meadow. 

At O'Fallon's station gradual sloping bluffs appear on the 
right, which rise to a uniform height of about 500 feet above the 
plain that we have crossed to reach this point. These bluffs are 
the extreme eastern point of a vast tract of table lands, which ex- 
tend westward over 200 miles — to the Black hills of Wyoming — 
varying in width to 35 miles. There are no living streams travers- 
ing these lauds but fine springs of water can be found near the 
head of some of the dry ravines which tend, north and south, to 
die two Platte rivers — which receive the drainage of this entire 
plateau. All the excellent grasses peculiar to the west cover these 
table lands, which in early days abounded with game — buffalo, 
deer, elk, antelope, etc., and bands of wild horses. It is now a 
stock range, with an occasional settler, "tickling" the ground; 
which " tickling," if water could be had for irrigation, would repay 
the settler with an abundant harvest. Yet, from recent observa- 
tions in a section of country where the soil is similar, and where 
wheat yields from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, without rain or irri- 
gation, I am of the opinion that a system of husbandry adapted 
to the peculiar soil of these table lands, will result in a similar yield 
of wheat ; and, that these lands are destined, at no distant day, to 
become the most valuable and productive wheat lands east of the 
Rocky mountains. 

Leaving O'Fallons, we leave the agricultural section and enter 
the grazing regions, which are almost exclusively devoted to stock- 
raising — cattle and sheep. 

Our train soon reaches the river bottom and rolls along past 
a number of small stations, the bluffs on the right, in places, 
crowding us to the river bank. 

OgilllcllH — [Pop.,6oo; from O'Fallons, 34 miles; elevation, 3,207feet]. — Is 
the seat of Kieth county. The citizens are very generally engaged 
in raising cattle; few attempt any agricultural pursuits further 
than a little " garden sass." 

Wrecking a Train — Near this station, in 1870, at a point 
where the railroad makes a short curve near the bank of the river 
and crosses the mouth of a deep ravine coming down from the 
bluffs, on the right, a party of Indians attempted to wreck a pas- 
senger train. They gathered a baud of their ponies in the ravine 
near the track, out of sight, and then watched the coming of the 
train. As it neared the ravine the Indians massed their ponies on 
the track ahead of the locomotive. The result was, some score or 
more of the ponies were killed without damaging the train, while 
the trainmen used their pistols and guns pretty freely on the Indi- 
ans, who were apparently greatly surprised, and who since call 
the locomotive — " Smoke wagon — big chief — ugh! ! No good! " 



BIG SPRINGS— JUXESBURG. 29 



We follow along the river with little of interest to note. 

I»iy SgM'Slli;* — [Pop., 150; from Ogallala, 19 miles; elevation, 3,361 feet]. 
This station derives its name from a large spring — the first found 
along the road — which makes out of the bluffs, opposite the station 
on the tight, in view from the cars. The water is excellent — the 
best along the road. 

Robbers — It was at this station where the " Big Springs rob- 
bery " took place, September 18, 1877. A party of 12 masked 
men took possession of the station, bound and gagged the men, 
cut the telegraph wires, and when the western train arrived, took 
possession of it with guns and revolvers, in the name of " hands 
up." The robbers secured §65,000 from the express car, $1,300 
and four gold watches from passengers, then mounted their horses, 
that had been hitched near by, and allowed the train to proceed. 
No person was killed or injured, but all experienced much diffi- 
culty for days, in getting their hair to lay down; and, it is said, 
among the railroad men, that even now a sudden shout "hands 
up," in the hearing of that express messenger, will send his hat up 
three feet from his head, and his eyes will resemble the ' ' All-See- 
ing Eye " in the Mormon sign of " Holiness to the Lord." 

Immediately after the robbery, a reward of $10,000 was offered 
for the arrest of the perpetrators. Three were caught soon after and 
paid the penalty of the crime with their lives. About one half the 
money was recovered with the three caught, and we have heard 
that the other half has been recovered and the rest of the robbers 
caught and sent "over the range." Qnien Sabef 

On the south side of the river, opposite, in plain view, is the old 
ranch and trading post of the noted Indian trader and Peace 
Commissioner — Beauve — now deserted. 

Rolling on, we pass by a series of cuts and fills and another 
range of sand bluffs, cut up by narrow ravines and gorges. At 
points the roads run so near the river bank, that the water seems 
to be right under the cars. 

Jlllt'SOIirg' — [Pop., 600; from Big Springs, n miles; from Omaha, 375 

miles; Denver, 197 miles; Cheyenne, 144 miles; elevation, 3,456 feet] Is jn 

Logan county, Colorado. The old town of Julesburg was situated 
about one mile west, 011 the opposite, or south side of the Platte 
river. The Julesburg of 1867 was on Lodge Pole creek five miles 
west and four miles north of the Platte — now called " Weir." The 
present Julesburg, until recently, was called " Denver Junction." 
The name of "Julesburg" was given for a Mr. Jules Burg — that 
lived at the old town in 1860-1 — a desperado who "died with his 
boots on." 

Stock-raising is about the only occupation of the settlers in this 
vicinity. 

Mail — Hack leaves Julesburg every week for Froid 16 miles 
north. 

Denver Short Line, branch of the Union Pacific railway, 
leaves the main line at Julesburg, and runs on up the Platte river 
to Denver, 197 miles, while the main line leaves the river here, 
and turns up Lodge Pole creek, 144 miles to Cheyenne. We will 
continue on the main line to Cheyenne, and then return to Jules- 
burg and take up the "Short Line " to Denver. 

Passenger — "Conductor, do we stop long enough at the next station to eat a 
sandwich? " 
Conductor — "No, sir; we only stop twenty minutes ! " 



30 



sidnb;y — PONY EXPRESS. 



At Julesburg a number of ears destined for Denver are left for 
the " Short Line " to pick up, and our train starts again for the 
west that much lighter. Turning up Lodge Pole creek — passing 
four small unimportant stations — we reach a regular meal station 
at 

SlrillOJ" — [Pop., 1,500; from Julesburg, 42 miles; Cheyenne, 102 miles; ele- 
vation 4,090 feet]. — Is the seat of Cheyenne county, one of the extreme 
western counties of Nebraska. It contains several good brick busi- 
ness blocks and stores, and shops of all kinds. The chief support 
of the place is derived from stock-raising; yet there are quite a 
number of settlers in the vicinity engaged in agricultural pursuits. 

Sidney, until recent railroad facilities were afforded the Black 
Hills country to the northward, by a line from the east, was the 
outfitting and freight shipping point for all of that country. 
Then, daily four-horse coaches left Sidney, carrying passengers, 
mails and express. Those were lively times for the town. 



Fort Sidney. — In 1870 the government established a military 
post at this place, and erected extensive barracks and warehouses. 
The post is on the south side of the track, a little east of the sta- 
tion, and is in command of Col. II. A. Morrow. It is the head- 
quarters of the 21st Infantry, and garrisoned by A, C, E, <t, and I 
companies. 

Connections — Mail hack leaves Sidney once a week for Gorman, ten 
miles south. Also, north for Redington, 40 miles; Camp Clark, eight miles, 
and Wellsville, two miles, three times a week. 




overland pony express. 



The Pony Express — Was an enterprise started in 1860, by 
Majors , Russell & Co., of Leavenworth, Kan., to meet the press- 
ing business wants of the Pacific coast. It will be remembered 
that that the usual time made on the mail service, by steamer, 



prairie; dogs. 31 



between New York and San Francisco, was about 26 days. The 
first overland mail — which arrived in San Francisco Oct. 10th, 
1858 — carried it from St. Louis, Mo., via Los Angeles, in 28 days, 
21 hours. The Pony Express, which left St. Joseph, Mo., and 
San Francisco, simultaneously, April 3d, 1860, succeeded in trans- 
porting it through safely, on its first trip, in ten days; on its 
second, in 14 days; third, nine days; fourth, ten days; fifth, nine 
days; sixth, nine days — a distance of 1,996 miles. This rapid 
transmission of business correspondence was of great value 
to business men in those days. •' 

This service, we can readily see, required courage and endur- 
ance, as well as enterprise and the expenditure of large sums of 
money. The moment the ferry boat touched land on the opposite 
shore, the pony expressman mounted his horse; and by day or 
by night, in starlight or darkness; whether sun-dried or soaked, 
snow-covered or frozen; among friends or through foes; be he 
lonely or merry — onward he hasteneth, until, at the thrice-wel- 
comed station, he leaped from his saddle to rest. Here another 
was ready — whose horse, like himself, had been waiting, perhaps, 
without shelter — and with a cheery "Good-night, boys," he gal- 
loped off, and was soon lost in the distance. He rides on alone, 
over prairies and mountains; whether up hill or down; on rough 
ground or smooth, until he espies in the distance the goal of his 
hopes, and the station is reached. To tell of the losses of men 
from the Indians, and of horses and other property, both from 
volunteers as well as Indians, with the many thrilling adventures 
of those who participated in this daring enterprise, however inter- 
esting, would make too long a recital for these pages. The late 
James A. Moore, the first "post trader" at Sidney — one of the 
old pioneers on the plains — was the first rider of the pony express, 
who made the most remarkable ride on record, particularly so, if 
the condition of the trail and country was considered. "Jim" 
was at Midway station [south side of the Platte] June 8th, 1860, 
when a very important government dispatch arrived for the Pacific 
coast. Mounting his pony he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis- 
tant, where, on arriving, he met a return dispatch/Vo/// the Pacific, 
equally important [the rider that should have carried the dispatch 
east had been killed by the Indians the day before]; resting only 
seven minutes, and, without eating, returned to Midway, making the 
"round trip " — 280 miles — in 14 hours and 46 minutes. The dispatch 
reached Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine 
hours and 40 minutes. 

%&§** That dispatch ret ievedGeneral Albert Sidney Johnston from 
the command of the Army of the Pacific, and saved the Coast 
to the Union. 

Leaving Sidney — 19 miles to Potter, we find about 200 settlers, 
and a few miles further — an immense population of 

Prairie; Dogs — Their city occupies some thousand or more 
acres. Their dwellings consist of a little mound, with a hole in 
the top, from a foot to a foot and a half high, raised by the dirt 
excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these 
animals can be seen scampering for their houses; arrived there, 
they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at 
the train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down 
they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead. 



32 FIRST VIEW OF THE ROCKIES. 

It is said that the opening in the top leads to a subterranean 
chamber connecting with the next dwelling, and so on through 
the settlement; but this is a mistake, as in most cases a few 
buckets of water will drown out any one of them. The animal is 
of a sandy-brown color, and about the size of a large gray squirrel. 
In their nest, living with the dog, may be found the owl and 
rattlesnake, though whether they are welcome visitors is quite un- 
certain. The prairie dogs live on the grasses and roots and is 
generally fat, and by many, especially the Mexicans, considered 
good eating, the meat being sweet and tender but rather greasy, 
unless thoroughly par-boiled. Wolves prey on the little fellows, 
and they may often be seen sneaking and crawling near a town, 
where they may by chance pick up an unwary straggler. But the 
dogs are not easily caught for some one is always looking out for 
danger, and on the first intimation of trouble the alarm is given 
and away they all scamper for their holes. 



KillltKlll — [Pop., 500; from Sidney, 47 miles; from Cheyenne, 65 miles; 
elevation, 4,697 feet].— This station was formerly called "Antelope." 
Its present name is for the present general manager of the road. 

Many of the settlers in this vicinity are engaged in agricultural 
pursuits and some, it is said, have been successful; but stock-rais- 
ing is the chief reliance of the settlers in this section of the coun- 
try, as it is admitted to be the best grassed stock range in the 

western country. 

Connections— Mail hack leaves this station three times a week: north, 15 
miles to Lorain; eight miles to Centrapolis; six miles to Ashford, and 15 
miles to Gering. 

Eighteen miles from Kimball and we cross the boundary line 
between Nebraska and Wyoming, and turning to the left at Pine 
Bluffs, 22 miles from Kimball, commence to climb the high table 
land leaving the valley of Lodge Pole creek far to the right. The 
old California emigrant road crossed the Platte river near Jules- 
burg, and followed up Lodge Pole to Cheyenne. 

Pass — over the Black Hills of Wyoming 40 miles west, and 
came down on to Laramie plains, near Laramie city. 

The Rockies — Passing a number of small stations our train 
reaches the table lands or high prairie soon after passing the side- 
track station, named Atkins, and then, if the day be a fair one, 
the traveler can catch the first glimpse of the Rocky mountains, 
directly ahead. On the right can be seen the Black hills of 
Wyoming, stretching their cold dark ruggedness far away to the 
right — as far as the eye can reach; but the bold, black line — the 
dark shadow on the horizon, which will soon take tangible shape 
and reality, but which now seems to bar our way as with a gloomy 
impenetrable barrier — is the "Great Rocky Mountain Chain," the 
back-bone of the American continent, though bearing different 
names in the southern hemisphere. The highest peak which can 
be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides gleaming 
above the general darkness, is Long's peak, one of the highest 
peaks of the continent. Away to the left rises Pike's peak, its 
towering crest robed in snow. It is one of those mountains which 
rank among the loftiest. It is one of Colorado's noted mountains, 
and on a fair day is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles 

distant. 

Why is it dangerous to take a nap when traveling? Because the train runs 
over sleepers. 



DENVER SHORT EINE. 33 



Archer — situated on the high table land, where the cars sel- 
dom stop, is eight miles east of Cheyenne, and a little farther on, 
the cars pass through the first snow shed on the Union Pacific road, 
emerging with Crow creek valley on the left. 

After passing through a series of cuts and fills, the track of the 
Denver Pacific branch of the Union Pacific can be seen on the 
left side, where it passes over the bluffs, to the south. Directly 
ahead can be seen, for several miles, the far-famed " Magic City of 
the Plains," the capital of Wyoming, but we are not going to say 
one word about Cheyenne until we have brought up the left leg of 
the Union Pacific from Kansas City — ( Continued on page /oj.) 



Jg@ tt> We now return to Julesburg. 



Demer Short Line — Branch, leaves the main line at Jules- 
burg, and continues up the South Platte river, to Denver, 197 miles. 
The country for the first 50 miles is occupied exclusively by the 
stock-raisers, their ranch houses being scattered along the river, on 
each side. Some have large tracts of land enclosed for a winter 
range, and side tracks for shipping stock; but the greater number 
depend entirely on the public range, both winter and summer. 

Leaving Julesburg, it is about five miles to the crossing of 
Lodge Pole creek, opposite which, on the south side of the Platte 
river, is the site of old 

Fort Sedgwick — It was established May 19, 1864, and aban- 
doned in 186.S, nothing remaining, not one stone upon another, to 
mark the site. 

Just here "I could a tale unfold!" Yes, and we will doit, 
too — simply to enable the reader to contrast the times: The 
month of December, 1865, was a fearfully cold one; the barracks were 
built of lumber without plaster on the inside; good summer houses, 
but as cold as a barn in the winter; the firewood supply got very 
short, when "proposals " were advertised for 300 cords of soft wood. 
Only one bid was put in, and that was from Mr. John Hughes, of 
Denver, who proposed to furnish it for §105 per cord. The con- 
tract was awarded to Mr. Hughes, and most of the wood was sent 
down from Denver on wagons, 200 miles, at a cost of from $55 to 
$65 per cord for freighting. The cost of the wood in Denver was 
$20 per cord. Besides this, the contractor was allowed to put in 
what hard wood he could get at double the price, or $210 per cord, 
which by many was thought to be a "pretty soft snap." The 
"hard wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, 
50 miles south of Denver city, and cost no more for transportation 
than did the pine. 

Skirting the river, which at certain seasons abounds in ducks 
and geese from the mountains to its mouth, the country presents 
few objects of interest worthy of note, beside the cattle interests 
already referred to in another place. 

Sterling' — [Pop., 6oo; from Julesburg, 57 miles; LaSalle, 74 miles; Den- 
ver, 120 miles; elevation, 3,920 feet]. — It is a regular meal station on the 
railroad, the seat of Logan county, Colorado, situated in the 
midst of the largest and richest tract of bottom land on the Platte 
river, and Denver Short Line. This tract is about five miles wide, 
and the portions tributary to Sterling for business are from 15 to 20 



,•',4 STERLING— FORT MORGAN. 



miles in length, on the west side of the river; then, there is a large 
tract of valuable agricultural land on the south side; also, heavy 
stock interests on both sides of the river. 

Much of the lands on the west side of the river, near Sterling, 
are under irrigating canals, which have been constructed by the 
settlers, who take the water from the Platte, a few miles up the 
river. All the irrigated lands produce bountiful crops of grain and 
vegetables. 

Other tracts are natural meadows, on which a large amount 
of hay is raised without irrigation. 

Sterling has several good brick business blocks, and stores 
and shops of many kinds, also a newspaper. The depot hotel is 
the principal one in the town. 

The railroad company have machine, round-house and repair- 
shops located here. 

At Sterling the passenger trains from both the east and west 
meet and pass. 

Good schools and a number of churches are here, and well 
attended; but why need we speak of those? Everybody knows 
that in Colorado schools and churches are among the iirst things 
that command the attention of the settler. He may live in a 
"dug-out" himself, but he must have a school for his children; 
then a church. 

In times past it was a common occurrence for a party of emi- 
grants to drive out from the Missouri river with teams, select a 
tract of land, set their wagon beds on the ground to live in, and 
then all " club together," with their teams and haul logs and build 
a school house the first thing, when there might not be over a 
dozen children among the party. Such people never rust out; 
they may be poor, but never thieves. Should they get rich, and 
they will, they never patronize the divorce courts. 



The road traveled in "ye olden times," by the overland stage, 
emigrants and "Pilgrims," is on the south side of the Platte river 
from Fort Kearney to Denver. Now the stock-men possess the 
countrv almost exclusivelv. 



Connections by rail are Burlington .•* Cheyenne railroad. 

Leaving Sterling our course is to the southwest for nearly 40 
miles, passing several small stations, where the settlers have con- 
structed canals and ditches for irrigating purposes; hay — mostly 
alfalfa — is the principal crop. Most of the settlers are engaged in 
stock-raising, and the crops raised are for their own use — for their 
riding animals. 

DfllCl — [From Sterling, 4;, miles; Denver, 97 miles; elevation. 4,263 feet]. 
Named for Mr. Harry Deuel, the jolly old pioneer ticket agent 
at Omaha. But why a little station, situated in the sand hills, 
should be named for Harry, is past comprehension. It's got more 
sand and grit than Harry. 



Fort Morgan — Now a thrifty little town of (iOO population — 
once a government post — is situated on the south side of the river 
opposite Deuel, upon the high table land. An irrigating canal 
enables the settlers to raise good crops of grain and vegetables in 
in the vicinity. 

Connected by hack with Deuel. 



SHERIDAN POWERLESS— LA SALLE. 35 



Sheridan Powerless — Not "Little Phil," but his brother, 
"Mike." It was in the early spring of 1866. An order had been 
issued that no less number of persons than 30 should be allowed to 
pass a government post on the overland road between the Missouri 
river and Utah, and they must be well organized and armed to 
resist any Indian attack. At the time named the writer appeared 
at the post with a party of 28 men and applied for a pass. Capt. 
(now Colonel) "Mike" refused. Three days passed, no recruits 
came to our number. Early the following morning, while Capt. 
"Mike" was resting the whole cavalry command deserted, taking 
their horses and equipments, and there were none left to pursue or 
say them nay. Our "outfit" rolled down the Platte river 25 miles 
that day, and we have never seen Capt. "Mike" since. 

Cut-off — At P'ort Morgan the old wagon road going west 
forked, one route keeping along the river via Fremont's orchard, 
and the other, the Cut-off, turned to the left across the country, 
saving in distance about 20 miles and some bad sand hills. But the 
water supply was very poor and short. At the time when this 
route was laid out — in 1861 — and opened for travel, the citizens 
celebrated the event with as much enthusiasm as could now be 
crowded into a dozen "Fourth of Julys." 

Leaving Deuel our direction changes to the north west, rolling 
through the sand hills for about ten miles, when we again turn to 
the west. 

If the sky is clear the first glimpse of the Rocky mountains 
can be had, with Long's peak as the central figure. 

Rolling along across a broad stretch of bottom land, which pro- 
duces a-large amount of hay in payment of the labors of a few stock- 
raisers who live along the road, we come opposite 

Fremont's Orchard — Named for Col. Fremont, the "Path- 
finder, ' ' who visited this region in one of his exploring expeditions. 

This "orchard" — before the woodsman's ax played havoc — 
consisted of a large grove of cottonwood trees, on the south side of 
the river, back of which are high, sandy bluffs. 

From Fort Morgan, the "river road" to Denver kept along the 
south bank of the Platte to the "orchard," where it was turned 
over the sand hills by the river washing the base of the perpendic- 
ular bluffs. Here the emigrant and freighter experienced similar 
difficulties, trials and dangers to those at O'Fallon's Bluffs, as the 
silent graves of many scattered about the orchard can attest. 

Crossing the Platte river 34 miles from Deuel, the town of 
Greeley can be discerned 15 miles away, to the north of west, sit- 
ting almost obscured in a grove of trees. 

Fifteen miles from the river crossing our train stops at 
LilSjlllt' — [From Denver, 46 miles; Omaha, 526 miles; Greeley, five 
miles; Cheyenne, 73 miles; elevation, 4,663 feet]. — Is situated at the junc- 
tion of the "Short Line" and Denver Pacific branch, which runs 
from Denver to Cheyenne. We shall particularly note this line 
hereafter, commencing on page 101. 

Our train now takes the track of the Denver Pacific branch, 
and runs parallel with the mountains, affording magnificent views 
all the way to Denver, 40 miles. The country is thickly settled 
all along the line. There are several small stations, and much 
land under cultivation, mostly in alfalfa hay. 



36 



BEE-HIVE GEYSER. 




BEE-HIVE GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 

Five miles before reaching Denver,. we cross Sand creek, and 
the track of the Burlington road. Directly opposite, on the west 
side of the Platte river, comes down Clear creek from the moun- 
tains, at the base of which — see the cloud of smoke? — is Golden, 
the " Ivowell of Colorado." 

Proceeding, the Grant and Holden smelters are close on the 
right, while " Argo, " the great Boston and Colorado smelter, can 
be seen away across the river, on the high land, sending up a cloud 
of smoke and fire. 

Sampling works, iron foundries, machine works, freight yards, 
flour mills, grain elevators, gas works, lumber and stone yards, 
etc., etc., are passed in quick succession, when "Denver" is 
announced, and we stop at the Union depot. 



ggg" When we bring up that left leg of the Union Pacific from 
Kansas City, we will tell you all about Denver, and then take a 
run over the state of Colorado, noting many of the marvelous 
works of God and man. 



KANSAS CITY — A BOOMER. 



KANSAS PACIFIC BRANCH. 



Kansas City — [Pop., 165,000 ; elevation 681 feet]. — Is built on and 
around a series of high bluffs and ravines, on the south bank of 
the great bend of the Missouri river, just below the mouth of the 
"Kaw," or Kansas river, in Jackson count}', Missouri, the river 
being the boundary line, at this point, between the states of Mis- 
souri and Kansas. Prior to 18-49, the place was known as " West- 
port Landing," but in that year was changed to Kansas City. It 
then had a population — mostly traders, hunters and trappers — of 
300. Its central location has from the first enabled it to control 
a large trade with the country to the west and the southward, 
which, since the advent of railroads, has grown to an enormous 
business. The Missouri Pacific was the Jirst railroad completed to 
Kansas City from the eastward, where it arrived October 1, 1865, 
since which time ig roads have arrived from different direc- 
tions, to bid for and share the business which often taxes their 
entire combined capacity. As a live stock center — cattle, sheep 
and hogs, and for slaughtering, packing or shipping — Kansas City 
has no equal in the western country. The stock yards, beef and 
pork packing establishments, which are immense, are situated on 
the bottom lands in the western part of the city, south of the 
Union depot, and are well worth a visit by the traveler. 

Boomer — Kansas City, since 1885, has made a record as a 
"booming" city, far ahead of any ever made in this country 
where the business and resources were not stimulated by mineral 
excitements. In 1885 it claimed a population of about 65,000; 
now, over three times that number. The great number of costly 
business blocks, palatial hotels, extensive manufactories, cable car 
lines up, over and around the hills, together with thousands of 
magnificent private residences, scattered about on the bluffs and in 
the secluded nooks, are almost incredible — are marvelous! Where 
now stands the largest and finest depot building in the western 
country, less than two score years ago stood immense cottonwood 
and sycamore trees, and thickets of underbrush, and pappooses, 
and squaws and Indians ; it was the Indians' home. He is no 
longer here ; he has gone! Where stood his " teepes " and " pony 
lodges," are now Pullman's palaces on wheels. Where the battle- 
axe, arrow and scalping knife once did a murderous duty in the 
adjacent county, now runs the plow, the cultivator and reaping 
machine. Yes! and the blood-stained soil of even a later date, 
now is occupied by a class of the most law abiding and prosperous 
people. Where once lurked cunning red savages, and white 
ruffianism and murder was rampant, now are schools, and the twin 
children of ignorance and scoundrelism have been forever "wiped 
out." God bless the common schools! they are the germs of true 
civilization, but their establishment in the west have often been 
preceded by the civilizing influences of a vigilance committee. 

Kansas City is not lacking in modern improvements— cathedrals, 
churches, schools, opera houses, theatres, board of trade, daily 
papers, cable and horse railroads, hotels, and electricity in various 
forms. 



38 JUST A EITTEE HISTORY. 

Union Depot — This building is of stone, two stories, and is 
one of the largest and most conveniently arranged for the business 
in the western country. It is provided with large waiting rooms 
for ladies and gentlemen, ticket, telegraph, telephone', express and 
baggage offices, a large dining room, lunch counter, news stand, 
baggage check stand, etc., etc., on the first floor. The second 
story is divided into rooms, and is kept as a hotel, with very good 
accommodations; charges, $2 per day. 

I This depot is the arriving and departing point for all 
passenger trains at Kansas City. 

Wyandotte, Kansas, is situated on the sloping bluffs just 
across the Kansas river, and might well be called a suburb of 
Kansas City. It is connected by motor cars, has a population of 
about le>,000, many of whom do business in Kansas City, and have 
their homes in Wyandotte. The city is on a portion of the lands 
once owned by the Delaware Indians, who sold them in 1842 to the 
Wyandotte Indians, the remnants of a tribe from the .state of Ohio. 
The lands adjoining the city are in a high state of cultivation, and 
large orchards of fruit are numerous. The Kansas v State Institu- 
tion for the Blind is located at Wvandotte. 



Connections — The principal railroad connections at Kansas City with the 
Pioneer Overland line are: Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs; Chicago, 
Rock Island & Pacific ; Chicago, Burlington & Ouincy ; Wabash Western ; 
Chicago & Alton; Missouri Pacific; Kansas City, Fort Scott & Memphis; South- 
ern Kansas; Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Hannibal & St. Joseph; Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul; Burlington & Missouri River; Chicago, Santa Fe & 
California ; Chicago, Kansas &. Nebraska, and Kansas City, Wyandotte & 
Northwestern, 

Just a Little History — The Kansas Pacific Railway Co. 
succeeded the Leavenworth, Pawnee & W 7 estern, which was incor- 
porated by act of Congress July 1st, 1862. The route then pro- 
posed was up the Kansas river, from its mouth to the junction of 
the Republican, thence north to Kearney station, connecting there, 
with the L T uion Pacific. Work commenced at Wyandotte, Kan- 
sas, September 1st, 1863. By act of Congress July 2d,1864, the com- 
pany acquired additional rights, and again, by amendment of the 
original act, approved July 3d, 1866, the}' were authorized to 
change their route and build westward on the 39th parallel, up the 
Smoky Hill river to Denver, Colorado, thence to a junction with 
the Union Pacific at or near Cheyenne, Wyoming. 

The road was completed to Denver, August loth, 1870, and by the 
purchase of the Denver Pacific, in 1N72, to Cheyenne. By a sale 
in L879, the whole line passed into the hands of the Union Pacific 
Railway Co. Distance from Kansas City to Denver, 639 miles; to 
Cheyenne, 745 miles. 

« ohm- Willi lis!— All passengers at Kansas City for California, 
Oregon, Puget Sound and intermediates, via Colorado, Utah, Nevada 
and Idaho, will step into the Pullman palace cars, or superb coaches 
of the Kansas Pacific division of the Union Pacific railway, pass 
through the whole length of Kansas, and over 300 miles in Colo- 
rado, through Denver and Greeley, and connect at Cheyenne. 
Wyoming, with the "overland" train from Omaha. 

To note the history and record the prosperity of the Kansas 
Pacific division, and the country tributary, in the brief space 
allotted for that purpose in the "Tours", it will be impossible to 
more than indite a "telegram" of the most important matters, 
those of the greatest interest to the tourist or emigrant. 



LEAVENWORTH BRANCH. 39 



Leaving the Union depot our train soon crosses the Kansas 
river and the Static LlNE, pass ARMSTRONG at the end of one 
mile, where are located the machine and repair shops of the Kan- 
sas division, and follow along on the west bank of the river, the 
bottoms of which are wida and covered with trees, with here and 
there a clearing. The trees consist of red and burr oak, ash, 
hickory, hackberry, cottouwood and sycamore. On the right 
the view is obstructed by high bluffs covered with brush or small 
trees. The stations for the first 37 miles are of little importance. 

Stranger creek, is crossed near 

Limvood — 28 miles out, where broad cultivated fields ap- 
pear. About five miles further the country fairly "spreads itself" 
and we get a. first view of the great rolling prairies of Kansas. - 

LawrtilCe Junction — [ From KansasCity, 39 miles; Leavenworth, 
32 miles; elevation, 749 feet]. — Is a small station where the branch for 
Leavenworth cjunects with the main line. This road runs 
through a section of country the greater portion of which is under 
a high state of cultivation. There are a number of small stations 
on the branch — Fairmont being the largest, which has a popula- 
tion of 1,600. 

L.ejlvenwor11l — [Pop., 36,000]. — Is situated on the west bank of 
the Missouri river; settled in 1854, and is surrounded by a section 
of country of unsurpassed fertility. Leavenworth has all the met- 
ropolitan features of a big city — horse railroads, water works, elec- 
tricity, a big bridge over the Missouri, six railroads, large Catho- 
lic cathedral, and a goodly supply of churches, schools, banks, 
newspapers, hotels, and small manufactories. 

Fort Leavenworth — Is two miles north of the city — estab- 
lished in 1K27 — and is now the headquarters of the Department of 
the Missouri. 

Rail Connections— .Missouri Pacific; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Kan- 
sas City, Wyandotte & Northwestern; Leavenworth. Topeka & Southwestern, 
and Atchison. Topeka & Santa Fe. 



Narrow Gauge — Here we find another branch of the Union 
Pacific — a narrow gauge track — which extends westward 166 miles 
through a very rich agricultural country, well settled and well 
tilled!^ 

The principal stations on this line, with their populations and 
distances between are: Valley Falls — [36 miles from Leavenworth, 
pop. 50]. HOLTON— fi 9 miles; pop., 3,000]. CLAY CENTRE— [92 miles; pop., 
5,000]. MlLTONVALE — [Nine miles; pop., r. 000]. Length of road, bid 
miles. 

From Lawrence Junction it is one mile to Bismark Grove — 
fair and pic-nic grounds — and another mile to 

IjSlWreilCC— [Pop., 15,000; from Kansas City, 39 miles; Leavenworth, 
34 miles; Topeka, 2.8 miles; elevation, 763 feet]. — The seat of Douglass 
county; named for the millionaire Lawrences, of Boston, Mass. 
The city proper is opposite the depot on the south side of the 
Kansas river, about one mile distant, reached by several fine 
bridges. It is situated in the midst of the richest and most fertile 
portion of Kansas, as well as being the most beautiful city in the 
state. The city has horse railroads and all the modern improve- 
ments. Settled in 1854. Raided by Quantrell's band August 21st, 
1863, who burned the town, and murdered upwards of 100 unarmed 
citizens. 



4(1 TOPEKA — KANSAS. 



In the southern part of the city is located the State University, 
on the summit of Mt. Oread, from which point you look upon a 
very beautiful landscape, dotted in all directions with hundreds 
of farm houses. 



Connections by rail are: Southern Kansas and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. 



Passing a number of small stations, all surrounded by thrifty 
settlers, 13 miles from Lawrence, we cross the Grasshopper river, 
upon which are located a number of flouring mills and small man- 
ufactories. The bottoms along the river are well timbered — oak, 
hickory, elm, ash, soft maple and cottonwood principally. The 
river unites with the Kansas opposite the old town of Lecompton, 
of " Lecompton Constitution " notoriety. 

Topt'ka — [Pop., 32,000; from Lawrence, 28 miles; Kansas City, 67 miles; 
elevation, 821 feet]. — The capital of the state of Kansas, and the seat 
of vShawnee county. Here passenger trains stop 20 minutes for 
meals. The city is situated on the south side of the Kansas river, 
opposite the station, one mile distant, and is reached by a substan- 
tial bridge, traversed by street cars, as well as a " bus " line and 
teams. The county is the richest and the lands the most fertile in 
the state. 

The Capital— Is a fine building, built of what is called in this 
country "Junction City marble," a white magnesian limestone 
found in many places in the state. It can be quarried in blocks from 
ten to 12 tons in weight, and when fresh from the quarry is very 
easy to saw. The capital cost $400,000. 

Connections by rail are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Missouri Pacific 
and Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska railroads. 



Kansas has an area of 52,053,520 acres, of which 18,000,000 are 
unimproved, awaiting settlers. Price of land from $1.25 for wild, 
to $50 per acre for improved. It has a school fund of over 
$2,000,000, and increasing. Two normal schools for educating 
teachers, the University at Lawrence and the Agricultural College 
at Manhattan. 

On the lines of the Kansas division of the Union Pacific there 
are 112 grain elevators with a storage capacity of 3,853, <>!Hi bushels, 
and 68 flouring mills with 234 run of stone; capacity, 5,780 barrels 
per day. Kansas is a prohibition state, but there is a large amount 
of liquor sneaked into and drunk in the state. 

St. Hary's — [Pop., 2,800; from Topeka, 15 miles]. — Is an important 
place in some respects. The Jesuit Fathers visited this place nearly 
50 years ago and established mission schools among the Indians. 
More recently they erected here large educational institutions. 
One for females is known as ' ' The Seminary of the Sacred Heart. ' ' 
The building is to the north of the railroad, is of brick with stone 
trimmings, 100 feet front and four stories in height, completed in 
1871. The college for males is adjoining, and can accommodate 
1,300 students. 

The country is thickly settled around about. Corn is the prin- 
cipal crop, though much wheat and vegetables are raised. 

WaillCgO — [Pop., 1,850; from St. Mary's, 13 miles]. — Is the next 
place of an\' importance. It is a thrifty town, situated in the 
midst of a section of country well watered by small streams, very 
fertile and thicklv settled. 



MANHATTAN— JUNCTION CITY. 41 

Passing St. GEORGE, another growing town of about 700 
settlers, we cross the Blue river, and stop at 

Tlail lialf ;ill — [Pop., 3,100; from Wamego, 15 miles; elevation 957 feet]. 
Is the seat of Riley county. Settled in 1854 by a colony of 
Ohio " pilgrims," who purchased a small steamboat at Cincinnati, 
steamed down the Ohio river, and up the Mississippi, Missouri and 
Kansas rivers to this place, where they settled in what was then a 
wild Indian country, living on their boat until buildings could be 
erected. The evidences of their enterprise and thrift can be seen 
on all sides. 

The Agricultural College of the state of Kansas, and a 
kind of experimental farm, is located at Manhattan. Congress, in 
its benevolent wisdom, endowed this college with a land grant of 
81,000 acres, most of which has been sold, realizing nearly half a 
million of dollars. The institution has 400 acres fenced and culti- 
vated; the greater portion is in vines and orchards of fruit of dif- 
ferent varieties. 



Connections — As noted heretofore under "Valley," the Union Pacific 
branch reaches Manhattan, from Valley station, on the main line in Nebraska, 
passing through Valparaiso, Lincoln, Beatrice and Marysville; distance, 190 
miles. 

Other roads are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, and Chicago, Kansas Neb- 
raska railroads 



The little town of Ogdensburg is reached in 11 miles, and one 
of some historic interest in the annals of the state, as being the 
place where the first territorial legislature, convened by Gov. 
Reeder, met to "save the country." 

The place was settled in 1856. 

Fort Riley — Is both a railroad station and a government post, 
five miles beyond Ogdensburg. The station is for the fort, which 
is situated to the right, upon a high plateau; established in 1852, 
in latitude 39° north, 96° 30' west. The post was first known as 
"Camp Center," being situated in the geographical center of the 
United States. The post is the headquarters of the Seventh cav- 
alry, Col. J. W. Foresyth, commanding, and is garrisoned by 
troops A, B, C, D, G, I, L, and M. 

JllllCtiOll City — [Pop. ,5,300; from Fort Riley, four miles; Kansascity, 
139 miles; elevation, 1,021 feet.] — Is the seat of Davis county, situated 
at the junction of the Smoky and Republican rivers, which form 
the Kansas; it is surrounded by lands of great fertility, are thickly 
settled and highly cultivated. The city has the usual number of 
stores, shops, hotels, etc., found in a place of its size, and is grad- 
uallv accumulating wealth. The Junction City marble quarries, 
heretofore referred to, are located just to the north, under the 
bluffs. 

The Smoky Hill river comes in from the southward, and will 
be on our left for the next 47 miles — to Salina. 

The valley of the Republican is one of the richest and most 
productive in the state of Kansas. History runneth not back to 
the date of its first settlement by the Indians, but it does to the 
time when they numbered many thousands. It was their home- 
stead, his last rendezvous in the state, to retain which he fought 
the white man long and bitterly, but with the usual result; the 
Indian had to go. He went! Where once roamed his "pony 
herd" in thousands, now can be counted the dwellings of his suc- 
cessors in equal numbers; where once the Indian's beef (buffalo) 



42 



view in DENVER, cor,. 




ranged in untold millions, now range the white man's beef, cattle 
and sheep. The buffalo has gone! went with the Indians. Will 
the time ever come when the "successors" will be succeeded by a 
stronger and more enlightened race? Will they, in turn, ever be 
driven out and exterminated? 



ABILENE — SOLOMON, KANSAS. 43 



Connections — The Junction City & Fort Kearney branch of the Union Pa- 
cific turns to the northwest from Junction City, and runs up the Republican 
valley. The principal towns on the line, distances apart, and populations, arc: 
From Junction City to CLYDE, 56 miles; pop., 2,150; CONCORDIA, from Clyde, [5 
miles; pop., 4,000; Belleville, from Lawreuceburg, the junction station" eight 
miles; pop., 4,300. Besides the above, there are ten stations, many of which 
have populations of from 200 to 400. 

Also connects with the Missouri Pacific railway. 

After leaving Junction City for the west, a peculiar rock form- 
ation is noticeable on the right, along the summit of the bluffs, 
resembling a long line of fortifications. 

Another item we record for the benefit of the sportsman: 
F fathered game in great abundance is found on the prairies and 
along the rivers and small streams in Kansas, such as prairie 
chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, plover, swans, cranes, pelican, 
and many other varieties. 

ABhIcHC — [Pop., 5,300; from Junction City, 24 miles; from Kansas City, 
163 miles; elevation, 1,093 feet].— Is the seat of Dickinson county, a 
regular meal station for some trains, and one of the best on the 
line. 

Wheat and corn are the principal staples in this vicinity, yet 
all kinds of small grain and vegetables arc raised and yield 
bounteously. 

This station was the first cattle shipping point on the Kansas 
Pacific railway, it being the most convenient station to reach by 
stockmen driving over the "Texas trail" from the south where 
most of the cattle, received at Kansas City and other northern 
markets, were raised. 

From l.SliT to 1870 the number of cattle loaded on the cars, at 
this station each year, was from 75,000 to 150,000 head; but as the 
agriculturists crowded in, the cattle were crowded out, and we will 
find the stock range now far to the westward. 

We are now in what is called the "golden belt," so named for 
the wonderful adaptability of the soil for raising wheat and other 
small grains. These " belt " lands, it is claimed, commence near 
Junction Cky, and extend beyond Ellis — about 200 miles in length. 
Wheat -is the principal crop, and comprises about one-half of all 
the productions. 

Several years ago we noted a number of fields of wheat, near 
Abilene, of 1,000 acres each, one of 8,000, and one of 3,500. 

Soine years ago the settlers commenced planting trees and 
there are now to be seen many fine orchards of fruit in the vicinity. 



Connections by rail are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe and Chicago, 
Kansas & Nebraska railroads. 

SolOlllOIl — [Pop, 2,100; from Abilene, nine miles; elevation, 1,1 11 feet]. 
Is situated near the junction of Solomon and Smokv Hill rivers, in 
the midst of a fine agricultural section of country. Corn and wheat 
are the principal staples. 



Connections by rail are: Solomon branch of Union Pacific runs up the 
valley of the Solomon river, to the northwest, 57 miles to Beloit, an agricultural 
town of about 2,000 population. Minneapolis, the largest place ou the branch, 
is 23 miles from Solomon, and contains a population of 2,300 — agriculturists. 
Also connect with Atchison, Topeka & Sante Fe and Chicago Kansas & 
Nebraska railroads. 

Leaving Solomon and crossing the river of the same name, we 
soon reach an elevated plain, dotted in all directions with the neat 
little cottage homes of the settlers who are principally engaged in 
raising wheat and corn. NEW Cambria is a thifty little town of 
250 citizens, eight miles west. 



44 LINCOLN BRANCH. 



Salina — [Pop., 9,300; from Kansas City, 186 miles; elevation, 1,163 f eet L 
Is the seat of Salina county; settled in 1858. The surroundings are 
principally agricultural — wheat, corn, hay and general farm pro- 
ducts. There are a few small herds of cattle and sheep in the 
county, and some extensive quarries of gypsum and fire and pot- 
ters' clay; also several salt springs that are being volatilized for the 
production of salt; cottonwood, oak, ash, elm and box-elder, skirt 
all the streams. Farmers are planting black walnuts in large 
quantities. The town contains several large grain elevators, large 
business blocks, hotels, newspapers and stores and shops of all 
kinds. The Salina river is crossed just before reaching Salina. 



Connections by rail are: Salina branch of the Union Pacific runs 
south, 36 miles to McPherson, a thrifty town of about 2,500 population. It is 
situated on the line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Chicago, Kansas & 
Nebraska, and the Missouri Pacific railways. The next largest town on the 
line is Lindsborg; it is situated on the Smoky Hill river, and the Missouri 
Pacific railway, 21 miles south from Salina and contains a population of about 
1,000, mostly agriculturists. 

Lincoln branch of the Union Pacific was completed about the 
first of December, 1888. It follows up the Salina valley, northwest, 
to Waldo, 72 miles, thence westward to PlainvillE. Zurich, 
Millbrook, HoxiE to Colby, 205 miles. At Colby, a branch runs 
southeast, connecting at Oakley, 22 miles, with the main line. 
The Lincoln branch parallels the main line for the whole distance 
from 20 to 35 miles distant, running through the counties of 
Salina, Lincoln, Russell, Rooks, Graham, Sheridan and Thomas; 
the productions are principally wheat and corn. 

Also connect at Salina with Missouri Pacific; Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska, 
and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads. 

All along the rivers and streams in their region are belts of 
timber, consisting of oak, hackberry,elm, mulberry and cottonwood. 

Bl'OOliVillC — [Pop., 900; from Salina, 15 miles; elevation, i,2S6 feet]. 
Here are located the usual railroad repair shops of a division. 
The town is situated on the high rolling prairie, surrounded by 
settlers, mostly engaged in raising wheat and corn. 

Passing a number of small stations including Fort Harker, 
where a government post was located in 1867— now abandoned — v\e 
reach. 

EllSWOrfll — [Pop., 2,000; from Brookvllle, 22 miles; elevation, 1,471 feet]. 
It is the seat of Ellsworth county, situated on the north bend of 
the Smoky Hill river; settled in 1867. This was for many years 
a great shipping point for cattle, but the advent of the farmers 
has crowded the cattle-men— -further west. The town has some 
large stone business blocks, a good hotel, and many fine buildings. 
The large grain elevator is an evidence that wheat has taken the 
place of cattle. 

Passing a number of small stations, chief of which is Wil- 
son's — [Pop., 1,000], situated on the high rolling prairie surrounded 
with wheat growers, who do not grumble at their yield of grain 
per acre. Some claim 50 bushels. Near Bunker Hill, a place set- 
tled in 1871, by a colony from Ohio, are salt springs, lime quar- 
ries, coal, mineral paint and pottery clay. 

RllKMCll — [Pop., 1,800; from Ellsworth, 40 miles; elevation 1,765 feet.] — Is 
the seat of Russell county, settled in 1871, by a colony from 
Ripon, Wisconsin. It is situated about four miles south of the 
south bend of Salina river surrounded by rich lands, well settled 
and cultivated. 



HAYS — EWJS — KANSAS. 45 



Connections— Mail hack three times a week to" the northwest, Fay, 12 miles; 
Fairport, five miles further. Also to the northeast, Woodville five miles; 
thence northwest, 16 miles, to Paradise, and nine miles to Tapley. 



The Victoria colony is located 16 miles west of Russell. Es- 
tablished by the late Mr. George Grant, a wealthy Scotchman, 
who bought 80,000 acres of the railroad lands, sold a portion to 
the colony settlers and retained a large estate for himself. The 
lands have a rich soil, are easy to cultivate, and produce an 
abundant harvest. 

The town and vicinity contains a population of about 1,200, the 
comfortable homes dotting the landscape in every direction, sur- 
rounded by well-tilled fields, horses, cattle and sheep. 

Hay§ — [Pop, 1,350; from Russell 26 miles; elevation, 1,936 feet]. — Is the 
seat of Ellis county, named for the government post established 
here in 1807, situated about half a mile south, on a high plateau. 

The citizens and settlers in the vicinity of Hays are mostly 
farmers. The county is well watered by the Smoky, Big Creek 
and the Salina; the land is rolling, of a dark rich loam, and is 
said to be perfection for farming purposes. Good building stone 
is abundant, and belts of timber line all along the rivers and 
small streams. 

Fort Hays — Is the headquarters of the 18th Infantry. Col. 
J. E. Yard, commanding, and garrisoned by B, D, and H com- 
panies. 

Connections — Mail hack: North six times a week, to Martin, 16 miles; 
Painsville, io miles, and Stockton, 15 miles. Also, northeast to Catherine, 
nine miles, twice a week. To the southeast six miles to Munjor, and 14 
miles to Pheifer, 14 miles, three times a week. Southwest 12 miles to PALa- 
tine, thence west 12 miles to Stockbridge. 



EHiS — [Pop., 1,150; from Hays, 14 miles; from Kansas City, 303 miles; 
elevation, 2,056 feet]. — Is a regular meal station for all passenger 
trains, and the meals are above the average. Here the railroad 
company have the usual shops of a division — machine and repair 
shops. Next, after Abilene was abandoned as a cattle shipping 
point, came Ellis, and the agriculturists also came, have settled, 
have been successful, and the cattle-men have about all taken 
Philosopher Greeley's advice — gone west. 



Connections — Mail hack for the north, to Menoota, 13 miles; Amboy, 
seven miles; Cresson, three and a half miles; thence northwest to Heber, 
eight miles; thence northeast to Nicodemus, eight miles, and west from Cres- 
son to Fargo, ten miles, three times a week. 



Wa-KeeilCy — [Pop. ,550; from Ellis, 18 miles; elevation, 2,391 feet] 
Is another agricultural town, wheat being the principal crop. 

The railroad company have a very large depot building -here; 
it is 100 x 30 feet, 32 feet high, surmounted by a tower 50 feet in 
height. 

Connections — Mail hack: North to Happy, 12 miles, and Millbrook, ii 
miles, six times a week. South to Wilcox, 16 miles; Cyrus, seven miles, and 
Southwest, six miles, three times a week. 



Leaving Wa-Keeney, there is little to note ; emigrants are 
coming into the country, securing farms, building homes and rais- 
ing wheat, vegetables, etc. Some are making a success of broom- 
corn, but all are crowding the cattle-men, but we will find them 
yet. 



46 WALLACE — STOCK-RAISING. 



Connections — At Buffalo Park, 29 miles, a mail hack runs south 13^ 
miles to Sloye, three times a week. 

At Grainfield, six miles, a mail hack runs north to Hoxik six times a 
week; also south to Goodwater, nine miles; Jerome, six miles; Farnsworth, 
seven miles, and Dighton, 16 miles, six times a week. 

At Oakley, 21 miles, the Oakley & Colby branch of the Union Pacific 
turns to the northwest, and reaches Colby in 22 miles, where connections are 
made with the Lincoln branch from Salina. 

At Oakley, a mail leaves for the south, to Cabbell, 13 miles, and Elkadek, 
11 miles, once a week. 

At Winona, 21 miles, a mail leaves to the northwest lor Kuka, 15 miles, 
twice a week. 

At Winona a mail hack leaves to the southeast for Russell Springs, 13 
miles, six times a week. 



^\ allcK'C — [Pop., 300; from Wa-Keeuey, 99 miles; Lk uver, 219 miles; ele- 
vation, 3,286 feet]- — Is the seat of Wallace county, situated on the 
Smoky Hill river, and a rolling prairie, two miles northwest of 
Fort WALLACE, which was established here in 1866. 

For some trains Wallace is a regular meal station; is the end 
of a division, where the railroad company have machine and 
repair shops, and the usual buildings for officers. 

HfelP'Time changes at this place from " central " to " western." 
If your watch is central, or Chicago time, it will be one hour too 
fast here. 

Wallace is well provided with stores, hotels, banks, schools, 
churches and a newspaper. It has many latent resources, one of 
which is its stone quarries. With as good stone as Colorado, and 
over 200 miles shorter rail haul, why should train-loads of stone 
pass through Wallace for the east ? 



Stock-raising — We have seen the stock-men at Abilene, then 
crowded along out to Kllis, and finally to Wallace, and even here, 
the demon of the plow and sc3 - the pursues them. There are a few 
farmers scattered over the lands in this vicinity, but we are about 
at the western limit of their present operations. 

For some distance we have been on the border of the public 
cattle range, as evidenced in places of immense yards, chutes and 
side-tracks for the accommodation of the "cattle kings." 

The gradual march of the agriculturists on the trail of the 
stock-raisers in this country, argues a success for the invaders. 
The crowding process so peacefully followed will continue, and 
the time is not far distant when the common range east of the 
Rocky mountains will be a thing of the past. 

The stock-raisers of the future in these United States will need 
to own their own ranges, fence them, provide winter feed and 
keep less stock. The "round tips" and professional "cow 
punchers," will only appear in history and " yellow covers." 

The day when a few men can range from 20,000 to 150,000 head 
of cattle each over millions of acres of the public domain, is 
past. We fail to see why the fanner, lumberman and miner 
should be required to pay the government for lauds, and then be 
taxed upon them, when the stock-raisers can monopolize the whole 
grazing country and pay never a cent. 

Connections — Mail hack leaves to the southeast for Cocavne, 18 miles; 
thence east to Wilkinson, five miles, six times a week. 



From Wallace it is nine miles to the new station of Sharon 
Springs, named for a famous spring in the vicinity; eight miles 
to MONOTONY, very appropriately named, and 15 miles to Arapa- 
hoe, where we leave Kansas and enter the state of Colorado. 



FIRST VIEW — MIRAGE. 47 



Cheyenne Wells — ten miles west of Arapahoe, is in the 
cattle range, but is not a very populous station. For some trains 
it is a regular meal station. 

Connections — A mail hack connects for Burlington, 35 miles north, six 
times a week. A second-line parallels the first, but a few miles further wist, 
forBELOlT, 26 miles; Okanola, ii miles; Tuttle, 15 miles; Friend, 17 miles, 

six times a week. 

I'Ml'Sl \ ie\V — [From Cheyenne Wells, 11 miles; Kansas City, 473 miles; 
Denver. 166 miles; elevation, 4,561 feet]. — Here, if the sky be clear, pas- 
sengers from the east obtain their first view of the Rocky moun- 
tains, 1.S4 miles distant from their base, and those from the west 
their last view. Pike's peak, the highest peak in view, is directly 
west. 

Kit CarSOll — [From First View, 14 miles; elevation, 4,273 feet]. — 
Named for the famous trapper and guide of that name, and some- 
what noted as being the place where the Grand Duke Alexis of 
Russia tarried to hunt buffalo, in January, 1872. It was a big 
limit, and it is said that the Duke killed 40 of the noble animals. 
And, by the way, we have been in the old buffalo range for the 
last 250 miles, but for the last 12 years none have been seen — they 
left with the Indians. 

Kit Carson is situated on the Big Sandy river near the junction 
of Horse creek. 

From this station, southeast 27 miles, is Chivington, named for 
Col. Chivington, who, in 1864, had a "little unpleasantness" with 
the Indians, resulting in over 400 of them departing this life for 
the "sweet-bv-aud-bv." 



]UiragC — Is reached, after passing several other small stations, 
80 miles from Kit Carson. It is named from that curious phenom- 
enon the mirage, \iuiiazli), which has often been witnessed in 
this vicinity. 

In 1860-8, the toil-worn immigrant, when urging his weary 
team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened 
by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad, 
green meadows, which appeared to be but a little distance away. 
Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course 
and followed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he has 
followed a phantom, a will-o'-the-wisp. 

What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we 
never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the appearance 
of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy 
trees and the running waters; we have seen them all near by, as 
bright and beautiful as though they really existed, where they 
appeared, too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them 
vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers 
have followed these visions until, overcome with thirst and heat, 
they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling 
shade of the trees they might never reach; far from the music of 
running waters, which they might hear no more. 

Now, as onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the 
elegant palace car, (20, 30, 40 miles an hour, rolling over the once 
trackless prairie) we scarcely give a thought to those who in early 
days traversed this country parallel with our road, only 20 or 30 
miles to the northward, and suffered so fearfully while crossing it, 
and perchance their bones were left to bleach and whiten on the 
scorching sands. How changed! 




THE CAPITOL OF COLORADO, DENVER. 



II IliJO — [From Mirage, nine miles; Denver, 104 miles; elevation, 5,027 
feet], — Named for Mr. Hugo Richards, a Colorado pioneer. Until 
recently this was a regular meal station, and a villianous one. 
The change was a long time coming, but then, it is said, "the 
mills of the gods grind slow but sure." In this instance all old 
travelers over the "K. P." will ever bless the miller. 



Cattle Range — As we are now in the center of the great cattle 
range of the west it may be well to crack what to some may be 
an old chestnut — to the many, news. 

At this point we are in the midst of the finest grazing lands in 
the western country, or the world. They are about 200 miles in 
width from east to west, and 400 miles in length, watered by nu- 
merous rivers, small streams and springs. On this mammoth pas- 
ture ground range at will millions of cattle, sheep and horses the 
year round, without being fed with hay or grain, and receive only 
such care as will prevent them from straying beyond reach. 

The gramma, or "bunch" grass, is the most nutritious grass 
grown, and seems peculiar to this western country, being wholly 
unknown in the eastern states or the old world. It grows from 
five to 12 inches high, and is always green at the roots, winter and 
summer. During the fall the dry atmosphere cures the standing 
grass as effectually as though cut and prepared for hay. Its nu- 
tritive qualities remain uninjured, and the stock thrive equally 
well on the dry feed. 

In the winter, what snow falls is very dry, unlike that which 
falls in more humid climates. It may cover the ground to the 
depth of a few inches, but the stock readily remove it, reaching 
the grass without trouble. Then again, the snow does not stick to 
the sides of the cattle and horses, and melt there, chilling them 
through, but its dryness causes it to roll off, leaving their hair 
dry. 



BRANDS — ROUND-UPS. 49 



In some portions of this great stock range a kind of white sage 
and grease-wood grows luxuriantly, on which cattle and sheep 
thrive in connection with the grasses. 

No drouths which have been experienced on this range have 
ever seriously affected the pasturage, owing to the peculiar qualities 
of the grasses indigenous to the country. So with storms; it has 
seldom happened that any are experienced that cause loss, and 
none ever do when the stock is properly cared for. 

On these ranges it is common for stock of many owners to 
range together, and a system of brands has been adopted by the 
association of stock-raisers and recorded with the county clerk in 
the section of country where the herds belong. The recording of 
the brand is a protection against theft and loss by straying, as each 
stock-man knows the brands in use on his range, and each endeav- 
ors to protect the others' interest. 




Dukbin, Orr & Co.— Cattle branded ^B ; also, some of them 
\B, and horses the same. Post office, Cheyenne, W. T. Eange, 
Bear Creek. 

" Round I'p "—One of the most important and interesting feat- 
ures of the stock-raising business is the ' ' round up. ' ' In the 
"free and easy " manner of raising cattle on the broad western 
plains, where the owner may not see one-half of his herd for six 
months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless cattle 
scatter almost from "Dan to Beersheba," and that extra effort is 
necessary when they are finally collected by the regular spring 
"roundup." Companies of herders are organized to "ride the 
range," to scour certain sections of the country, and bring every 
animal to a grand focal point, no matter to whom that animal may 
belong, or what its condition maybe. The old-fashioned " husk- 
ing bee," "'possum hunt," or " training day," is vastly outdone 
by this grand revelry of the herders. 

Mounted on their fleetest "cow ponies," the cowboys scatter 
out in all directions, gather in "everything that wears horns," 
and at night may have the property of a score of owners in one 
immense excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the 
animals together, representatives of the different "brands "ride 
into the herd, single out the animals, one by one, and drive 
them off to be branded or marketed. Moving along, day after day 
the scene is repeated, until the whole pasture country has been 
visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity to take an 
inventory of his stock. Of course the " boys" camp out, wagons 
follow the herd with provisions and blankets; the "round up" 
season, from beginning to end, being one of mirth and frolic, as 
well as of work. 

Paddy's description of a fiddle can't be beat: "It was the shape of a turkey 
and the size of a goose; I turned it over on it's back, and rubbed it's belly with 
a crooked stick, and oh! Saint Patrick, how it squealed." 
4 



50 DENVER — OF OL,D. 



Cedar Point — Eight miles from Hugo, is the highest point 
on the line of road, being 5,695 feet above the level of the sea. 

We have now all down grade, with only a few feet exceptions, 
all the way to the city of Denver — 104 miles. In this distance a 
number of small stations is passed, and many small streams, with 
cattle on more than a thousand hills. 

The mountain views while approaching Denver are very grand. 
If the day be clear Pike's peak can be seen 75 miles to the left; 
Long's peak, 70 miles to the right, and Gray's peak, directly in 
front, all set like jewels in the crest of the great " snowy range" 
of the Rockv mountains. 



Again our train rattles along the Platte river, the hum of busy 
life is on all sides, and in front, the 

Union Depot— Denver. This depot is a spacious stone struc- 
ture, 503 feet in length by 65 feet in width, two stories, with a 
tower 165 feet high, built of lava stone from Castle Rock, with 
trimmings from the quarries at Morrison and Manitou. 

The first floor is devoted to waiting-rooms for ladies and gentle- 
men, ticket, telegraph, telephone, express and baggage rooms, 
news, baggage check and lunch stands, barbershop, and " sample " 
room, besides a large dining-room where excellent meals are served 
at all reasonable hours at 50 cents. 

The second floor is used at present for railroad offices; but we 
understand it is soon to be changed and fitted for hotel purposes. 

The entire building is thoroughly ventilated, heated bv steam, 
lighted by electricity and gas, and has a thorough police system of 
its own. The entire management of the depot and grounds is 
under the vigilant care of Col. Trufant. 

' 'Where TO Go ?" —is usually the first question to be decided by 
a traveler on arriving for the first time and desiring to stop over at 
any point. 

The hotels in Denver number three score and ten; boarding- 
houses and "rooms to rent," much more numerous. 

The principal hotels (rated by charges) are the Albany, Wind- 
sor, American, Charpiot's and St. James — charges, from $3 to $5 
per day. The Markham, Capitol, Brunswick, Inter-Ocean, and 
many others from $1.50 to $2.50 per day. Boarding-house charges 
from $5 to $15 per week. Furnished rooms from $8 to $35 per 
month. Of restaurants, there are scores, from five cent lunch 
counter stools to the Elitch's palace. 

How To Go. — Street cars leave from the southern entrance of 
the depot for all parts of the city, passing all the principal hotels. 
By inquiring of the street car dispatcher he will put you on the 
proper car to reach any point desired. Public carriages can always 
be hired near the same entrance, also the Transfer Co.'s " busses " 
and wagons. 

Denver — of Old — Has a "phenomenal" history, and as 
romantic as real: 

The first settlement was made November 1, 1858. West Denver 
was laid out three days later, and on the 6th, less than 200 citizens 
held a meeting and elected a delegate to Congress, and on the 
8th mounted him on the back of a broncho, and started him for 
the " states " — Washington — to get the " Pike's peak gold mines " 



DENVER — OF TO-DAY. 51 

set apart from Kansas as a separate territory. The struggle for 
existence commenced in 1861. The mines were reported " played 
out;" the war divided the people; the grasshoppers hopped onto 
and devoured even-thing green; fire laid waste half the city, to be 
followed by a great flood sweeping out much that remained; then 
came the Indian war of 1804, cutting off supplies from the east, 
and all mail communications; murdered emigrants, burned ranches 
and smouldering ruins covered the route for 600 miles between 
Denver and the Missouri river. Every citizen was under arms, 
and block-houses for defense were hurriedly erected in all the 
exposed parts of the city. As if not enough to crush out the last 
spark of vitality in the citizens, came the announcement: "The 
Union Pacific railroad is building up Pole creek." This was leav- 
ing Denver over 100 miles south of the trans-continental line, and 
as Mr. Durant said, "IPs too dead to bury." 1 This was a crushing 
blow, and many abandoned the town, leaving their all, and joined 
tilt- army of railroad camp followers or contractors. (The writer 
was one of the last named, having " swapped " 1(50 acres of land, 
of what is now an addition to the city of Denver, for two yoke of 
oxen, and the Indians stole the oxen.) But that " crushing blow " 
did not crush; in fact it was the life of Denver. Those who could 
not get away, having large investments, and finding the trans-con- 
tinental railroad would not come to them, resolved to go to it. 
The citizens immediately went to work and raised $400,000 by sub- 
scription, then voted county bonds for $500,000 more. Soon "dirt 
began to fly" on the railroad graded to Cheyenne. The turning 
point was reached and passed, and we have now to glance at the 

Denver of To-<la y — Is the capital of the state of Colorado, 
the commercial center. [Pop., 8o,ooo.] From a beggar on a 
broncho in 1 858, it can now send its senators and representatives 
to Washington by six different palace car lines via the Missouri 
river, and one via Fort Worth and the Gulf of Mexico. It has 
.smelting works and manufactories of all kinds. It has public 
buildings, cathedrals, churches and schools, unsurpassed in any 
eastern city of double its age. It has the finest opera house and 
well-appointed hotels. Its street car system is complete. Its 
artesian water supply has no equal in the world, being taken from 
God's reservoir by over 300 wells, from 380 to 1,160 feet beneath 
the city, and is as pure as crystal. 

Denver is the seat of Arapahoe count}-, 14 miles east in a direct 
line, from the base of the Rocky mountains, at the junction of 
the South Platte river and Cherry creek; elevation 5, 224 feet above 
sea level. It is a city of brick and stone, almost exclusivelv. In 
many of the large business blocks (several eight stories in height) 
iron is used, and the buildings are very costly and substantial, and 
provided with all the modern improvements. The streets are 
broad, the sidewalks are paved with large flagstones and bordered 
with shade trees, sustained and nourished by streams of pure 
mountain water, which is distributed through ditches and gutters, 
running parallel with the sidewalks. 

The Chamber of Commerce and Board of Trade building is 
situated on the corner of Lawrence and Fourteenth streets. The 
association was organized in 1884, built their building, and have 
since been very active workers for the advancement of the best 
interests of Denver, and have succeeded in a remarkable degree. 
Dar's many a lie'on a tombstone. 



52 DENVER — COLORADO. 



Ill secret orders, lodges, clans, associations and societies, Den- 
ver is fully represented. 

Denver is a port-of-entrv, where the greater portion of foreign 
goods that are sold in Colorado by the jobbing merchants of the 
.state arrive direct in bond. 

The marvelous growth of this city, the preponderence of fine 
residences, and the great number of people one meets, who are 
apparently are people of leisure, often leads to the query: " How 
do all these people live? " To some extent we have answered this 
question before. The great majority live on their money in bank. 
There are thousands of families of independent means living in 
Denver, of which some member first came here for health, was 
relieved and returned home to be again prostrated. They again 
returned, were again relieved, and their faith in the health-giving 
climate of Colorado fully established. This state of facts resulted 
in the packing up and gathering together of their household goods 
and gods, and the establishment of permanent homes in Colorado. 
There are hundreds of fine private residences in and around Den- 
ver that have been built within the last ten years by men of wealth 
as homes, that cost from $15,000 to $50,000, and furnished with all 
the luxuries that money can buy. Great numbers of these resi- 
dences are owned by those who have made their fortunes in the 
mines, and after leading nomadic lives of want and exposure 
for years have settled down to enjoy life. 

The Alpine view from Denver, of the great Rocky mountain 
chain, extending north and south for 200 miles with Long's peak 
to the north, Pike's peak to the south, and the "dome of the 
continent," Gray's peak, in the center is most exquisite! Supple- 
ment the picture with the beautiful buttes, foot-hills and the roll- 
ing prairies, 600 miles wide to the eastward, and the magnificent 
landscape is complete. Should we include the substantial, the 
refined society, beautiful drives, abundance of the necessities of 
life, economy of living, and above all, the delightful health-giving 
climate of Colorado to the list of attractions, they would answer 
the query, often propounded, ' ' What has built up — what sustains 
Denver? " 

The advantages above enumerated are only a few that could be 
named. As a distributing point, its central location must ever 
command the trade and traffic of the numerous mining and agri- 
cultural towns, both in the mountains and valleys. Its w T ouderful, 
almost unlimited railroad advantages, is another marvel. Denver, 
to-day, is the terminus of more railroads, with hut two exceptions, 
than any city, town or villagein the world. Sixteen is the number 
now, to which can be added within the next 18 months, two more. 
These 16 railroads are all separate and distinct organizations, run- 
ning regular trains. 

The newspapers and miscellaneous publications number 33. 
The News, Republican, Times and Democrat appear daily. The 
Graphic, Farmer, Journal, Herald, Celt, Enquirer and Republican 
are weekly papers. The Field and Farm is also a weekly, and one 
of the best, if not the best, publication of the kind in the west. 



Near Tacoma, W. T., is this sign-board: 

"This road is not passable, 
Not even 'jackassable;' 

An I those who wish to travel it. 

Sh mlil turn out anil gravel it." 



COLORADO— ITS CHARACTERISTICS. 



Colorado — its General Features. — It is not our purpose 
to enter into a very minute description of this remarkable state; 
although the youngest in the American Union, it possesses nearly 
all the natural advantages of her older sisters, while in many 
respects she stands forth pre-eminently superior to any of them, 
and to the world at large. 

What is claimed — 

The most healthful climate. 

The grandest parks and mountain scenery. 

The grandest and deepest canon in the world. 

The largest coal vein and coal deposits in the known world. 

The greatest number of developed ore-producing mines. 

The greatest number of mine locations. 

The greatest number of medicinal and mineral springs. 

The largest substantial city of its age in the world. 

The most abundant water power; mill-sites and dam-sites are 
numberless. 

The highest mountain ranges, peaks and parks in the Union, 
and the source of the greatest number of large rivers. 

The largest, most abundant, and greatest variety of game, 
feathered and haired, as well as the most numerous streams stocked 
with the finest trout. 

Finally — The most accessible Alpine country for tourists and 
health seekers from the most populous states of America, and the 
cheapest. 

Colorado was admitted as a state July 4, 1870, just 100 
years after the Declaration of Independence, from which fact it is 
known as the "Centennial" state. It is situated between the 
37th and 41st degrees of north latitude and the 25th and 32d meri- 
dians of longitude west from Washington, containing 108,012 
square miles, about one-third of which is prairie lands, lying east 
of the base of the Rocky mountains; the other two-thirds are moun- 
tainous, with parks and small valleys sandwiched in between the 
mountain ranges. 

Climate and Health — The climate is dry and very healthy; 
diseases common in the older states are unknown here. Pulmon- 
ary complaints — if not too deep seated — are either eradicated from 
the system of invalids who resort to this country, or the disease 
becomes so modified that the sufferer enjoys a marked improve- 
ment in health. Within the last few years numerous hot springs 
have been discovered in various parts of the state which are 
claimed to possess great medicinal qualities, particularly for the 
cure of rheumatism and kindred diseases. 

Irrigation — Is very generally resorted to throughout the state 
for agricultural purposes. There are a great number of canals that 
take the water from the streams near the mountains, and conduct 
it to points from 25 to 100 miles away, from which great numbers 
of laterals or small ditches conduct the water over the fields of the 
farmers, thus insuring good crops, as irrigation is necessary on 
nearly all tillable land in the state. 

Farm Products — Wheat yields from 30 to 40 bushels to the 
acre. Oats, rye, barley and small grain generally, yield good 
crops; corn, in the southern counties and some parts of Boulder, 
Uarimer and Weld counties, make fair returns. Potatoes are ex- 
ceptionally fine all over the state. All vegetables do well, and 



54 COLORADO — ITS CHARACTERISTICS. 

melons yield abundantly. Many kinds of berries are raised suc- 
cessfully. Alfalfa makes three crops a year, or eight tons to the acre. 

Apples, of late years, have been in the markets from home 
orchards. 

Coal, — The yield of coal in the state for 1887 amounted to 
2,137,410 tons. 

Prof. Havden, late U. S. geologist, claims that 100,000 square 
miles of Colorado is underlaid with coal. Of this extent it is esti- 
mated 30,000 square miles of the coal deposits have an average 
thickness of 2o feet. By the usual method of estimating coal in 
places this gives a total of over 836,000,000,000 tons. At the pres- 
ent Pennsylvania rate of production, it will take nearly 14,000 
years to mine out the coal in the state of Colorado. 

Iron — Large quantities of iron ore of good quality are often 
found in connection with the coal deposits. One deposit is 90 
per cent, iron, almost pine metal. Steel rails are now made from 
this iron at the Bessemer works, near Pueblo. 

Precious Metal,S — Gold, silver, copper and lead are the prin- 
cipal mineral productions of the state, and are found principally 
in the most mountainous portions of the state. 

Placer Mining — once quite profitable, is now almost entirely 
abandoned. 

Quartz Mining — has grown to enormous proportions of late, 
and stamp mills and smelting furnaces are scattered all over the 
state. 

Besides the ore treated in the state thousands of carloads are 
shipped annually to eastern and foreign markets. 

Vim, Vigor and Push — In a zigzag tour, covering over 4,000 
miles in Colorado, we found people from all parts of the world 
scattered all over the state, in new towns and camps, valleys and 
glens, on mountains and plains, and beside healing waters and 
"babbling brooks" — prospecting, mining, farming, stock-raising, 
building roads and bridges, smelting works and mills, erecting 
large business blocks, selling "corner lots," publishing news- 
papers and prosecuting all kinds of business enterprises, with a 
vim vigor and push that said — "this country is good enough for us. 
We came to stay." 

TREASURES "crop out." — On one of our tours in Hinsdale 
county, we were shown a mountain, one side of which had been 
cut away by the action of the waters in past ages, leaving it per- 
pendicular and in places overhanging to the height of over 1,000 
feet, a number of veins of mineral cropping out from the side in 
well-defined bodies, some of which can be traced along the cliff 
for miles, and can be seen for miles away. Pieces from these ore 
veins have been picked up at the base of the cliff which assayed 
over |100 to the ton in silver and a large per cent, of lead. The 
location of these ore bodies is well known in the country, but as 
they are all the way from 400 to 1,000 feet high, in a perpendicu- 
lar cliff, inaccessable to a wingless mortal, they have not been 
"staked" or recorded. Another reason is, the mountains are full 
of mines, "laying about loose," that are rich, more easy of access 
and nearer railroad facilities. 

Mountain Scenery— The grandest mountains and mountain 
scenery is found in Colorado. The highest peaks rise, snow-clad, 



f:'J^\ ;* :-'t: : 



- T— ni'.iiHii , :';;":.:™^ 




HANGING ROCK— CLEAR CREEK CANON, COLORADO. 



see side tour no. i— Page 59. 



[Page 55. 



56 COLORADO — ITS CHARACTERISTICS. 



proudly and defiantly in the clear blue sky; their gray sides and 
white crests being visible in the clear atmosphere for many, ah ! 
hundreds of miles away. 

In the pure air of this country, peaks and elevated objects are 
visible for a great distance, so great indeed as to seem incredible 
to those who have never been in these regions and seen with their 
own eyes. Mt. Blanca is the highest peak in Colorado — 14,4<>4 
feet out of 41 that range about 14,000 feet. 

The Alps, storied monuments of poetic legendary fame, cannot 
compare with these mountains in scenes of sublime beaut)' and 
awful grandeur. Here all the vast scene is before you; the pure 
air brings the distant mountains within one's vision, as though 
anxious that the whole grand beauty of the scene should be visi- 
ble at one and the same time. The mind drinks in the inspira- 
tion of the glorious vision at one draught, and filled with awe, 
wonder and admiration, the bounding heart almost stands still, 
while the eager eyes gaze on the grandest panorama in nature. 
From the top of Gray's peak, a morning scene of glorious beauty 
is unfolded to the visitor, such as one rarely sees in any clime, for 
nature in her wildest moods, has never excelled her handiwork in 
the almost boundless view spread out in every direction. 

From Alpine summits the tourist's gaze extends over one petty 
kingdom, to rest upon another; here the eye fails to reach the full 
extent of Colorado, and the far horizon closes in the scene by 
dropping an airy curtain, whose fleecy fringes rest on mountain 
peaks and vast plains in far distant portions of the same fair state. 

Snowy Range; — or the continental divide — extends north and 
south through Colorado about equal distances from east to west, 
rears far heavenward its serried peaks, from the east side of which 
the waters of numberless springs and the melting snows ripple soft- 
ly away as though afraid to venture on their long journey to the 
Atlantic ocean. On the other side the scene is repeated, only the 
waters reach the Pacific ocean on the west side of the continent. 
This "divide" is the apex, the center of the Rocky mountain 
range, the crowning peak of that backbone, whose iron ribs are 
represented by the many spurs that branch away in earnest sup- 
port of the whole grand mountain system. From this "divide'' 
range on range, gorge after gorge can be seen, interspersed with 
rugged peaks, which lend a peculiar wilduess to the scene. Far- 
away to the east lies the vast grayish expanse of plains, looking 
like some great ocean, its breast unstirred by the passing breeze, 
or rippled by a single prow; nearer still, along the streams as they 
tumble through the foothills, along the bordering mountains, 
nestling in the hollow and between the brown heights lie miua- 
ture prairies — patches of green — on which the sun falls in folds of 
glorious light, enveloping them in a flood of golden beauty. Small 
and insignificant as they appear when compared with the vast sea 
of plains beyond, they are really large valleys, in which are found 
the best grazing and dairying lands in the state. 

Parks — There are other valleys as seen from the mountain 
tops which prove on entering them to be both wide and long. 
They are known as the North, MIDDLE, South and San Luis 
Parks. Each is a great central park or valley in itself, .shut out 
from its neighbors by dividing ridges of rugged mountains, the 
only entrances being along the numerous water-courses, which 
have their origin in th,e valleys and surrounding peaks, and cut 



WAGES PAID IN COLORADO. 



their way through their prison walls while passing to the sea. 
The extent of these parks vary, the largest being about 80 miles 
long with an average width of 20 miles. The smallest of the num- 
ber will not exceed 80 miles in length, with a width of about ten 
miles. The Middle lies on the Pacific side of the "backbone," 
while the others rest on the Atlantic, their altitude being from 
7,000 to 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. They are, in fact, 
great upland basins, the reservoirs of the debris which for cent- 
uries have washed down the mountain sides. Their soil is fertile, 
yielding wild grasses in abundance, furnishing food for vast herds 
of cattle, sheep and game. In some of these valleys fine crops of 
wheat, oats, potatoes and hay grow successfully. In Europe or 
New England, were such valleys found at such an altitude and in 
similar latitude, they would be worthless, barren wastes, probably 
regions of perpetual ice and snow; but here, settlers make their 
homes, raise some kinds of grain and vegetables for markets, cut 
hay and graze their cattle in summer on the abundant natural 
grasses, read the newspapers, vote the straight ticket, and are 
generally happy. 

Finally — Coloradoaus, as a class, are working and reading 
people, always busy, with no place for drones. Emigrants are 
received by old settlers and treated as friends, until they are found 
unworthy. The same might be said of business men and tourists. 
To all wage-workers and salaried persons, we would say: There is 
always work, of some kind, in Colorado for all those who honestly 
seek it, but the}' will need to make a name for honesty, sobriety 
and reliability when the door will be opened, to attain any position 
and salary that their abilities will warrant. But all should remem- 
ber, as the air is light in Colorado, to keep away from the gam- 
bling houses, bar rooms and bagnios, and you are all tight, visit 
them, and you are lost; maybe with your " boots on." 

Rate of Wages Paid in Colorado. — For the benefit of 
those who contemplate emigrating to Colorado, we have taken 
much pains to ascertain and compile a list of wages paid for serv- 
ices, covering nearly every occupation in the state. In this task 
we have been aided materially by the Leadville Her aid-Democrat. 

Assayers — per month. Gamblers — per day. 

Best men $125 to $175 j Day faro dealers £6.00 

Helpers .so to 100 Night faro dealers 7.50 

Boys....: into 40 1 Employes, other games... 4.00 to 6.00 

Barbers — per week. Gas Workers — pet" month. 

Good hands 1S to 20 Stokers $iooto$no 

Commission hands, 60 per cent. Fitters goto 100 

*Brick and Stone Masons. j Harness Makers — per week. 



Wages vary — 54 to 56 per day. 
Bartenders. 

Per month S75 to $ioo 

Butchers — per day. 

Slaughterers $3-5° to $4 

Meat cutters 3.00 to 4 

Charcoal — per month (and board) 



Good makers $16 to $20 

Saddlers 24 to 36 

Hotel Employes — per month. 

Clerks $30 to $100 

Stewards 50 to 125 

Cooks 30 to 100 

Washers, etc 20 to 30 



Teamsters 540 to $50 j Waiters 15 to 30 

Kiln men .so to 60 : Chambermaids 20 to 30 

Choppers, Si per cord. Laundresses 25 to 30 

Cigar Makers. Porters and bell boys 15 to 39, 



Per 1000 moulds 5io 

" " hand-made 15 to 16 

*Carpenters — per day. 

Best men J4.ootoS4.50 

Ordinary 3-5°to 4.00 

Clerks. 

Per month SSo to $100 

Drug clerks 75 to loo 

*Dressmakers — per week 



(Includes board and lodging.) 
Jewelers and Watchmakers. 

Best men, per week $30 to $35 

Laundries — per day. 

Starchers S2.00 to $3.00 

Polishers, etc 1.50 to 2.50 

Washers 1.50 to 2.00 

Livery Stables — per month. 

Hostlers S.so to $60 



Best hands 20 Boy 20 to 40 

Ordinary 8 to 9 

* Indicates a demand. 



500 

250 

150 

15° 

125 
120 

3oo 
90 
So 



3.00 
4.50 



1-75 



4.00 



$50 



Mine Employes— per month. 

Milliliters $250 to 1,000 

Superintendents 100 to 

Foremen 123 to 

Shift bosses 100 to 

Engineers 100 to 

Carpenters 100 to 

'fiinbermen 90 to 

Assayers 125 to 

Miners 80 to 

Surface men 75 to 

In wet mines. S4.00 per day, S hours. 

Milliners — per week Sio to $20 

Machinists — per day. 

Machinists $4.00 to $4.25 

Boiler makers 4.00 to 4.50 

Blacksmiths 4.00 to 4.25 

Blacksmith helpers 3.00 

Laborers 2.50 to 

Moulders 4.00 to 

Turners 4.00 

Apprentices 1 00 to 

Foremen 5.00 

Bookkeepers 3.00 to 

Newspapers — per week. 

Editors $30 to 

Reporters 25 to 

Solicitors 25 to 50 

Collectors 15 to 20 

Bookkeepers 20 to 25 

Circulators is to 25 

Carriers 5 to S 

Job printers 26 

Job foremen js to 30 

Compositors, per 1000, 45 to 50c. 
Foreman morning papt 1 
Foreman evening paper. 2S 

Pressmen 20 to 25 

Pressfeeders 10 to 15 

Apprentices 5 to 6 

Binders [5 to 20 

Ore Haulers — per day. 

Teamsters .....$2.50 to S3.' 10 

Contract price from 50c. to S3 per 
ton; depends on distance and state 
of roads. 

Plumbers, etc. — per day. 

Ditching £2.50 to $2.75 

Teamsters 3.00 

Foremen 3.75 to 

Bookkeepers 3.00 to 

Man and team 8.00 

Plumbers 3.50 to 

Gasfitters 3.00 to 

Paper Hangers — per day. 

Decorators lo 

Ordinary hanging 

Painters — per day. 

Outside men $3.00 to $3.50 

Inside men 3.00 to 3.50 

Grainers...._ 3.00 to 4.00 

Wagon work 3.00 to 3.50 

Signs, per foot 35c. to 1.50 

Job painting, 20c. per sq. foot for two 
coats. Caleimining 6c. to 8c. per sq. 
yard. 

Photographers — per week. 

Printers fio to $15 

Re-touchers 20 to 40 

Operators 20 to 30 

Reception room, ladies... 7 to 10 

Plaster ers — per day. 
Good hands $4.00 I" -' .50 

Physicians — 

< Ordinary advice $2.00 

Vaccination 1.00 

. Day visit in city 3.00 

Night " " 5.00 

* Indicates 



4.00 
(..00 



4-5° 
3-5° 



Consultations with at- 
tending physicians 10.00 

Mileage, out of city 2.00 

Surgical operations from $50 to $500 

Railroad F'mployes — per month. 

Office clerks $ 75 to $125 

Cheek clerks 65 to 73 

Warehousemen 50 to 60 

Watchmen 50 to 60 

Conductors 100 

Brakemen 60 to ;<> 

Switchmen 60 to 70 

Loc. engineers 100 to 130 

Loc. firemen 75 to no 

Dispatchers 100 to 150 

Section foremen 60 to 70 

hands 45 to 50 

Carpenters 75 to 80 

Bridge builders 75 to 80 

Car repairers 65 to 73 

Inspectors 65 to 75 

Machinists 75 to no 

*Servants (board and room I — per 
month. 

General housework $25 to $40 

Woman cook 35 to 50 

Saw-Mills — per month. 

Loggers, and board $45 

F^ngineers, and board 60 to 75 

Ratchet men, and board.. 65 to 75 

Teamsters, and board 40 

Head sawyers, $4.00 per day. 

Smelter Employes— per day. 

Feeders $4.00 

Furnace men 4.00 

Charge weighers 3.50 

wheelers %.. 3.50 

Slag-pot pullers 2.50 

Shift bosses 4.00 

Samplers 2.50 

Roustabouts 2.50 

Yard men 2.50 

Teamsters 2.50 

School Teachers — per month. 

Sup't in city $160 to J180 

Principals 80 

Primary So 

Intermediate 70 

Shoemakers can earn from $20 to $25 
per week. 

Surveyors — per day. 

Transit men £5.00 

Chain men 3.00 

Surveying city lots 6.00 

Surveying mining loca- 
tion 10.00 to 23.00 

Surveying experts 25.00 

Tinners — per week. 

Good men $18 to >jo 

By job, laying tin roof, from S7.00 to 
$8.50 per sq. yard. 

Tailors— per week. 

Journeymen $23 to $35 

Scale wages 20 

Most of the work is done by the piece 
at an agreed scale of prices. 

Wagonmakers — $2.50 to $3.00 per day. 

City Laborers — $1.50 to S2.00 per day. 

Coal Miners — 60c. to 80c. per ton. 

Gulch Miners — $2.00 to $3.00 per day. 

Cattle and Sheep Herders — S25 to 
and board. 

Coachmen — $15 to S30 and board. 

Office Boys — S3. 00 to S6.00 per week. 

"Farm Hands — $25 to $35 per month 
and board. 

Dining-room Girls— S20 to $30 per 
month, 
a demand. 



I Passengers over the Denver & Rio Grande railway, via Royal 
Gorge, Marshall Pass, the Black Canon of the Gunnison and Castle 
Gate to Salt Lake and Ogden, and thence via the Central Pacific rail- 
road to California, will buy CROFurr'S Overland Tours No. ± It 
describes the scenery en route and all over the Pacific coast — both 
northern and southern California — Yosemite, big trees, geysers, 
vineyards, orchards, etc., etc. 



COLORADO SIDE TOURS. •">!) 



SIDE TOURS IX COLORADO. 



Side Twin* \w. 1 — From Denver to Clear Creek Canon, 
Central City, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Middle Park 
and Gray's Peak. 

The only rail route that can be taken to these places is via the 
(narrow gauge) Colorado Central, branch of the Union Pacific 
railway. 

There are two regular passenger trains, each way, daily; one at 
8 o'clock a. m., the other at 3 o'clock p. in. The morning train is 
the best to take. 

Sometimes Observation Cars are attached to the train, afford- 
ing wider and more comprehensive views than can be obtained from 
the car windows of the little cars. 

Leaving the depot our train moves northward, passing gas- 
works, elevators, machine shops and manufactories, a half mile to 
the bridge over the Platte river. Soon we commence to climb the 
rolling prairie and in two miles Argo is passed, where are located 
tbe Boston & Colorado Smelting works, owned principally by 
Ex-Senator Hill. 

Half a mile further a beautiful view can be had of Denver, 
which lies to the southeast, embowered in shade trees, with scores 
of churches, private residences, large commercial buildings and 
extensive manufactories standing forth in marked prominence. 
To the south is the range of the "Plum creek divide," beyond 
which, a little further to the westward, can be seen Pike's peak, 
peaking up far above all other surroundings. The Platte river and 
valley are close in the eastern foreground, beyond which are the 
broad plains, limitless apparently to the e3 r e, while in the western 
background are the Rocky mountains, the base of which is near, 
but the peaks and the range from north to south are only bounded 
by the horizon. 

Proceeding a short distance further, the valley of Clear creek 
appears suddenly to our vision. It is one of the most fertile in the 
state. The soil is rich, black loam, mixed with just enough fine 
sand to make it warm and epiick to give life to cereals or roots. 
For the production of all kinds of vegetables Clear creek valley is 
noted. 

Descending into the valley we cross the bridge over Clear creek 
and run along on its west bank to Akvada. a small hamlet, seven 
miles from Denver. 

Nearly opposite Arvada, to the south three miles, that big 
building is the Catholic college. 

< )ur course is now directly west toward the mountains, cross- 
ing Ralston creek and many irrigating canals — for be it known, 
these lands have all to be irrigated to be certain of raising a good 
crop — to the base of the Table mountains. 

These huge "Tables," the outposts or giant sentinels of the 
Rocky mountains, are 1,000 feet in height, nearly round, flat on 
top, well grassed, and at one time must have been one unbroken 
range enclosing a great basin above, where is now the site of Golden. 
Clear creek must have been very busy for a great many years 
to have cut such a tremendous chasm as the one we are now enter- 
ing. Rolling along past smelting, sampling and concentrating 



00 GOLDEN — COLORADO. 



works, several manufactories and the railroad company's machine 
shops, we reach Golden, the "Lowell" of Colorado, 15 miles from 
Denver. 



iiiolricil — [Pop., 3,500]. — Is the seat of Jefferson county; was first 
settled in lN.>!t. Has important advantages as a manufacturing 
city from the abundance of water power afforded by Clear creek, 
which comes tumbling down the mountains, bisecting the town, 
giving power to a score or more of mills and manufactories of dif- 
ferent kinds. In early days the placer mines along the creek and 
in the vicinity supported the place, when these gave out coal 
mining and manufacturing took their place. 

The State School of Mines is located here — a noble structure 
for the purpose. The number of students in attendance is large 
and increasing, while the facilities afforded them for improvement 
and advancement, in theory and practice, are not equaled by those 
of any like institution in America. 

The county and public buildings, business blocks, church and 
school buildings, are very generally of brick with stone facings. 
Two weekly newspapers — the Glo6e.a.nd Gen. George West's J'taii- 
sciipt — are published here. The hotels are numerous, but not no- 
table. Water is conducted along both sides of the streets, and the 
trees bordering the walks add much to the beauty and comfort of 
the city. 

Leaving Golden our course is westward, directly for the moun- 
tains, which rise over 2,000 feet above our road, showing no en- 
trance only an impenetrable Gibraltar, against which our little 
engine seemed destined to butt; yet on it goes on a perfect tangent, 
straight for the towering bulwark, but just as it appears the crash 
must come, with no means of escape on either hand, the engine, 
with one long, loud blast of defiance, dodges to the left and skirts 
its very base directly for the river, but far above. The prospects 
now presented seem favorable for a bath, with the entire train and 
passengers for company. We near the brink, the waters thunder- 
ing far below; another blast, another whirl (this time to the right) 
and we are rolling around the brink of a precipice; another whirl, 
and our train is running back upon itself, having circled the moun- 
tain finger thrust out, as it were, to bar its progress. 

We are now in the mouth of the canon, and the huge fingers of 
the mountain are thrust out on each side, interlocking like the 
fingers of the hands. 

We follow the creek in its tortuous course — in places far above 
— and then on a level with its banks, beside perpendicular cliffs 
and beneath overhanging walls 1,(100 or more feet in height. 
The whole scene changes with every revolution of the wheels, and 
to be sure not to miss any grand views, one must keep alert and 
watchful all the time. 

From four to six miles above the mouth of the canon, placer 
claims were worked in 1859-60, but they have long since been 
abandoned. 

In those days the beavers did to the creek what many citizens 
living below are doing to-day. 

Eight miles brings our train to the first stopping place, Beaver 
Brook, named from a small stream, coining in 011 the left, down a 
narrow canon, up which, six miles distant, is located a saw-mill in 
a perfect forest of timber. The scenery at this point is grand — the 



CLEAR CREEK CANON. 01 

mountains are fully 1,000 feet above the road, on either hand, and 
covered in places with a dense growth of young pine and spruce 
trees, presenting an appearance as wild, picturesque and romantic 
as one could wish. 

Leaving the station our road makes a 30-degree curve to the 
right, up a grade of 272 feet to the mile under a projecting spur of 
the mountain, which rises 1,500 feet above our train, while the 
creek is close on the right, and thundering along down its narrow 
rocky bed. 

Eek Creek, a side track for passing trains, is reached one 
mile above Beaver Brook, and we continue climbing up, up, be- 
tween towering mountain cliffs, in places clothed with evergreen, 
pine, cedar and spruce trees, with shrubs of various kinds, until 
we reach a point three miles above Elk creek, where the walls on 
the west side of the creek slope away, and our train rolls past Big 
Hile. Here the old Mt. Vernon wagon road comes down the 
mountain from the left, the grade of which in places is 3-4 feet to 
100 feet. This road leaves the valley about two miles south of 
Golden, and after climbing the mountains via Mt. Vernon canon 
to an altitude of 8,000 feet, descends this "hill" and runs up the 
north branch of Clear creek to Black Hawk and Central. Many 
of the mills and the machinery used in these mountains, in early 
days before the railroad, were hauled over this road, and where 
the grades were the steepest, the wagons were eased down by 
ropes secured by a turn or two around huge pine trees beside the 
road. We remember the time where it took ten men, besides their 
teams, nine days, to lower down this hill one boiler, the weight of 
which was a little over seven tons. Those who grumble at the 
railroad, please take notice: The wagon road is still there — try it. 

Forks Cl'Cek — [Eight miles from Golden; elevation, 6,8So feet]. — Is 
the junction of North and South Clear creek. Here our train is 
divided. The route for Georgetown turns to the left, across the 
bridge, while that for Black Hawk and Central keeps to the right. 
As we have always had a desire to do right, we will keep to the 
right a while longer, and note the result. 



From this point to Black Hawk [seven miles] — and we might in- 
clude that portion from Floyd Hill to Georgetown, on the South 
Fork — nearly every foot of the creek bed has been dug over time 
and again, by miners in search of gold. Dams in many places 
have turned the waters of the creek through flumes, first on one 
side of its bed, then on the other, and the greater portion of the 
earth from surface to bed rock, from one side of the gulch to the 
other, has been dug and washed over by white men, and when 
given up by them has been "jumped " by the Chinese companies, 
many of whose people can now be seen daily washing and work- 
ing these old " placer diggings " over again. 

Two miles above the Forks is 

Cottonwood — A side-track — a milk ranch and a water tank. 
Hoiv convenient! 

Nearly opposite this station Russell gulch comes down, up 
which are located the old placer mines, so noted in 1859. 

A close observer of the working along the creek will get some 
idea of the methods adopted in gulch or placer mining. 



62 BI.ACK HAWK — CENTRAL CITY. 

After passing the ruins of several old mills, by looking away up 
the mountain side on the left, can be seen the railroad track over 
which our train will soon be climbing en-route to Central City. 

It is the " switch-back;" observe it well. It is, to say the least, 
an evidence of what engineering skill can accomplish. 

Passing several quartz mills, samplers and ruins of abandoned 
works we cross the creek to the west bank and stop at 

Black Hawk — [Pop., 2,000; altitude, 8,032 feet]. — Gold in paying 
quantities was first discovered in this county at this place, by 
John H. Gregory, May 6, 1859. During tbe summer the great 
rush of gold-seekers commenced in earnest and the mountains 
were overrun with prospectors, every day bringing reports of rich 
placer diggings or quartz discoveries. 

Here the buildings, mills, churches, stores and residences are 
sandwiched in between the gulches, ravines, mines, rocks and pro- 
jecting mountain crags in the most irregular manner. 

Quartz mills are numerous in and around Black Hawk; the 
rattling of their descending stamps night and da}' speaks in thun- 
der tones of the great wealth of this mountain country, one of the 
immense treasure chambers of the American continent. 

All the citizens are engaged in mining directly or indirectly. 

A transfer stage connects at Black Hawk for Central, one and a 
half miles distant; fare, 25 cents; by rail it is four miles. 

Leaving Black Hawk we start on our zig-zag tour to Central, 
on the route above named. The ride is one of great interest. 
After proceeding half a mile up North Clear creek our train stops, 
the switch is turned and back it goes> but not on the same track. 
It is climbing the world at a rapid rate; now it is directly over the 
citv, then on the steep mountain side beyond; then thunders over 
high bridges that span deep and fearful chasms, and stops at the 
end of two miles, on the brink of a precipice 400 feet above the 
same road up which it came within the hour, quite near enough to 
reach with a sling and stone. Again forward and again climbing, 
now the track runs parallel with the other two, but each far above 
the other. Soon the train rounds the mountain spur opposite 
Black Hawk, but 300 feet above, then bears away to the westward, 
heading off deep ravines or crossing them on high bridges, over 
streets lined on each side with mills, stores and residences, the 
homes of the citizens. The views of scenery are the most 
varied and surprising; the changes are rapid and wonderful as those 
of the kaleidoscope, yet with all the scenic beauty of this western 
countrv within the reach of all, many of our people never visit 
them, but sigh for a tour to foreign lands. A few more revolutions 
of the wheels and the train is at 

Central C'ltj" — [Pop., 3, 400; from Denver. 39 miles; elevation, 8,503 feet; 
471 feet higher than Black Hawk]. — The seat of Gilpin county. The 
Register-Call, a daily and weekly newspaper, enlightens the citi- 
zens on the news of the day, while the Teller and American hotels 
provide accommodations for the traveling public. Central has 
three banks, many quartz mills, numerous churches and schools, 
an opera house, and some fine private residences. The latter are 
scattered around about the hills, rocks, stumps and prospect holes, 
in the most irregular order. Central is the trading centre, for an 
extensive chain of mining camps or "diggings," which number 
from 20 to 500 inhabitants. 



IDAHO SPRINGS — COLORADO. 63 

The ore veins of Gilpin county are all true fissures, and there 
are many shafts down to the depth of 700 to 2,000 feet. The peo- 
ple are generally prosperous — some rich — and the money has been 
made here. The froth, scum and driftwood of civilization inci- 
dental to mining camps have long since floated away to "new 
diggings," leaving a substantial class of citizens, any one of whom 
will tell you, with the greatest confidence, " Gilpin county is good 
enough for me! " 

The character of the gold ores are free-milling white quartz, 
and surface dirt. 

The Gilpin County Tram Railway — a two-foot gauge 12 miles 

in length — runs from a connection with the " Central," near Black 

Hawk — around the mountains to all the principal ore-producing 

mines — hauling coal, timber, lumber, ore, etc., to and from the 

mines, mills, and railroad. 

Connections — Mail hack: South, Idaho Springs, seven miles, fare $i, six 
times a week; to the north, Rollinsville, 12 miles, fare $2; Nederland, four 
miles, fare $2.50; Caribou, five miles, fare $3, six times a week. 

We will now return to the Forks, take the Georgetown train, 
cross the bridge and follow up South Clear creek. Soon the train 
arrives at a narrow gorge and a sharp curve in the road and creek, 
where one of those huge fingers of the mountain projects out, 
reaching over to within 200 feet of its tall brother on the opposite 
side of the creek; and as the train passes under this overhanging 
cliff, we enter a natural amphitheater of immense proportions. The 
mountain rises over 2,000 feet above the stream, which is here com- 
pressed to a rapid torrent, thundering at its very base. The space 
between these towering walls is barely sufficient for the creek and 
road; in some places the road-bed had to be blasted out of the moun- 
tain side. The scenery here and for the next few miles is very 
impressive. 

About three miles above the forks the road curves to the right 
into the widening of the canon, opposite the base of Floyd hill, 
down which comes the old wagon road from Bergens township. 
On our way up several old deserted mills are passed, and we will 
probably see some w r ork in the placer diggings along the creek. 

l<lilllO Spring* — [Pop., 3.000; from Forks, eight miles; Denver, 37 
miles; Georgetown, 13 miles; elevation, 7,543].— Is in Clear creek country, 
in a beautiful little park nearly two miles long and half a mile in 
width, the lands gently sloping southward. The streets are broad, 
beside which are rows of planted trees (watered by sparkling 
streams), thrifty^ and beautiful. 

The city contains a number of good business blocks, two con- 
centrating, one sampling and one stamp mill, a bank, stores of all 
kinds, good churches and schools, several hotels — chief of which is 
the Springs house — two weekly newspapers, the Gazette and 
News. In fact, here can be found all the modern improvements, 
and in late years more than ordinary thrift. 

In April, 1859, gold was discovered in paying quantities on 
what is known now as Chicago creek, a small stream that comes 
down from the south, opposite Idaho; but these placer diggings 
were soon worked out, and then came the search for quartz mines, 
the result of which has made this county one of the most noted in 
the mountains as a gold and silver-producing region. 

Numerous quartz mills and many rich lodes are situated near 
Idaho. The veins are all true fissure, traversing a granite forma- 



64 IDAHO SPRINGS — COLORADO. 

tion and carrying gold, silver, copper and lead ores. Man)- of 

these mines have in the past, and are at the present time, yielding 

an enormous amount of wealth. 

Idaho for its hot and cold mineral springs has become noted as 

a health and pleasure resort. 

It is claimed the waters contain rare medicinal properties, and 

are nearly identical in chemical ingredients and temperature with 

the celebrated Carlsbad waters of Germany. However that may 

be, they have become renowned and are visited by tourists and 

many citizens of Colorado annually. 

Prof. Pohel gives the following as the analysis of the water in 

proportion to the gallon: 

Carbonate of soda 30. So 

" " lime 9.52 

" " magnesia 2.88 

" " iron 4 12 

Sulphate of soda 29.36 

" " magnesia 18.72 

" " lime 3-44 

Chloride of sodium 4.16 

" " calcium and magnesium, of each a trace 

Silicate of soda 408 

Grains 107.00 

At the springs are two swimming baths, one 30 by 50 feet, five 
feet deep; the other 20 by 40, and four feet deep. There are also 
private baths, varying in temperature from 85° to 11-5° Fahr., so 
arranged that the bather has full control of the temperature of the 
water. The "hot tunnel baths" located here furnishes a natural 
vapor bath, so delightfully stimulating in its effects that it is be- 
coming quite popular. 

There is, within five minutes' walk of the hot sulphur springs, 
a cold spring of sparkling, effevescent water, which, for drinking 
purposes cannot be excelled. 

Idaho Springs is the best outfitting point for Chicago lakes, 
made famous by Bierstadt's "Storm in the Rocky Mountains." 

Good accommodations can be had at the hotels and boarding 
houses at prices ranging from $7 to $14 per week. The wild and 
romantic Virginia canon is just to the north of the town, through 
which is the wagon road to Central City, seven miles distant; 
stage fare in summer, $1. Brookvale is reached by a good wagon 
road to the southward, over the mountains 12 miles; fare in sum- 
mer, $1.50. 

Leaving Idaho and continuing up the north side of the creek, 
we come to Trail run, which conies in from the southwest, up 
which are some good quartz mines and extensive forests of timber. 
Here are located the Freeland mills, and near by are the celebrated 
Freeland and Hukill lodes. Fall River or Spanish Bar is two 
miles above Idaho, where conies in from the north a small creek 
called Fall river, about eight miles in length, along which are 
located 1,000 quartz claims and several mills. Above Fall river, 
half a mile, Turkey run comes in from the south, where are found 
the Stephens mining properties and mill. A little further on we 
have Spring gulch, from the north, where is located some mills 
and valuable mines. DumonT, once known as Mill City, is four 
miles above Fall river, at the mouth of Mill creek, which conies 
in from the north; up this creek are several valuable mines and 
mills. 

At different points above Idaho are located mills, mines, tun- 
nels and extensive mining Improvements, which include some 



No. 2. 




:A 




THG GREAT LOOP. 



Ske Page 68. 




EN ROUTE TO GRAY'S PEHK. 



Near Georgetcwri, Colorado. 



GEORGETOWN — COLORADO. 65 

placer mining. Four miles above Dumont is L,awson, at the base 
of Red Elephant mountain. Near by are many valuable quartz 
mines, the opening or "dump" of some being visible away up near 
the top of the mountains, marked by a white deposit line, extend- 
ing downwards. 

Empire City is two miles above Iyawson, but not in view, being 
about one mile to the westward up the north fork of Clear creek. 
The road over the range to the Middle park, via Berthoud pass 
[11,350 feet elevation] runs through Empire, and is one of the most 
beautiful mountain roads for variety of ever-changing panoramic 
views an enthusiast could, desire. 

After crossing the north fork our course is south, running along 
the base of Republican mountain which rises above the road almost 
perpendicular 1,250 feet, while on the east, Alpine mountain ele- 
vates its crest 2,000 feet high. On the sides of these mountains are 
shafts, tunnels and prospect holes in great numbers. Three miles 
further the Union pass wagon road can be seen away up the side 
of the mountain to the right. It is built through a depression be- 
tween Douglas and Democrat mountains, and is bordered on one 
side going up ana the other going down with steep precipices. 

As we proceed the mountains are closing on each side, the 
way is narrow, the grade heavy, and the distance six miles from 
Lawson to 

OeorgetOWll — [Pop. ,3,000; elevation, 8,476 feet; from Denver, 50 miles] 
The seat of Clear Creek county, in the center of the oldest 
silver-mining region in Colorado, at the eastern base of the 
"snowy range." The city contains eight stamp mills, one samp- 
ling and reduction works, many stores, churches, schools, hotels, 
and two weekly newspapers, the Miner and Courier. The princi- 
pal hotels are the Hotel de Paris, Barton and St. James. 

Secret orders are numerous, fire department efficient, water 
supply immense, the water being reservoired 2,000 feet above the 
city, at Clear lake, and as soft, clear and cold as it is possible for 
water to be. Georgetown, situated as it is at the head of the valley, 
walled in on three sides by lofty mountains which protect it from 
the wind and storms, the air is of great purity, and the climate, 
for the altitude, quite mild. For these reasons, it is cool and de- 
lightful in the hot summer months, and of late has become quite 
an attractive summer resort. 

This is strictly a mining town — silver principally. The first 
discovery of silver in Colorado was made by Mr. James Huff, Sep- 
tember 14th, 1864; the location, about eight miles above Georgetown. 

There are thousands of mines in the vicinity of the town. Many 
are being worked successfully; others are in the "cap" — but the 
great majority are owned by "Micawber's." 

RESORTS — Green lake, three miles south from Georgetown, is 
one of the most charming little resorts in the state. It is reached 
by an easy wagon road that winds up the side of the mountains, 
from which there is a fine view of Georgetown and the valley 
below. This beautiful body of water, half a mile long by a quar- 
ter wide, is without a peer in any land. Altitude, 10,400 feet above 
sea level. In a row in one of the boats, the tourist can see the 
petrified forest standing upright many feet below the surface, with 
trout among the branches. The fish are very tame, eating from 
the hand. Tourists are allowed to fish at a charge for each fish 
5 




caught; many of them weigh from four to five pounds. 
The boat charges are 25 cents per hour. A good hotel 
and accomodations are provided at the lake for a limited numbei 
of tourists at reasonable charges. See illustration. 

Clear Lake — Is half a mile above Green lake. Is stocked with 
California salmon, many of which weigh from seven to eight 



MIDDLE PARK — GRAND LAKE). 67 

pounds. The lake is 2,000 feet higher than Georgetown, and the 
source of the water supply for that city is obtained here. 

Elk Lake — Is six miles farther up from Clear lake, at the edge 
of "timber line," and is much larger. The shores are sandy, with 
scattering timber and evergreens, among which are many varieties 
of flowers. One can pick flowers and gather snow at the same 
time. Many of the surrounding peaks are over 12,000 feet in 
height. Game, such as bear, deer, elk, grouse and quail, can be 
found in the vicinity. 

" Gem op The CordillERES " — is still another lake, farther 
up, above "timber line." It is about half the size of Green lake. 

On the west of this chain of lakes, overlooking the first two, 
rises Pain's peak. It is reached by a good wagon road, is four 
miles from Georgetown, and should be visited by all tourists, par- 
ticularly those who feel that they have not the time t© make the 
tour of the lakes, but desire a "bird's eye " view of a most charm- 
ing bit of Colorado scenery. 

Middle Park — Is reached by four-horse coaches from George- 
town, which leave three times a week, for as follows: North five 
miles to Empire City; thence northwest, via Berthoud pass, 21 
miles to Fraser, and 12 miles to Coulter ; thence North eight 
miles to Selak, and northeast 13 miles to Grand L,akE; total 56 
miles. From Coulter west, ten miles to Hot Sulphur Springs; 
total, 47 miles. Fare, round trip, $11. 

Grand L,ake — Town — Is the seat of Grand county, and for wild 
and romantic surroundings, is grand and beautiful in the extreme; 
but for hotel accomodations it's not " heap " grand. It is situated 
on the banks of Grand lake — the head and source of Grand river 
— a lovely sheet of pure spring water, about three miles in length 
and two miles in width, surrounded on all sides by towering pine 
and spruce trees, and on three sides by lofty mountains, the peaks 
of which are covered with a perpetual mantle of snow. Boats are 
kept on- the lake for rent, also fishing tackle, etc., as the lake 
contains an abundance of the finest trout. The town residents in 
winter do not exceed 150, but in the summer double that number. 
A general merchandise store, a hotel, post office, one weekly news- 
paper, the Prospector, and a saw-mill, comprise the town. 

Hot Sulphur Springs — Is a small town situated on the east 
bank of Grand river at the head of Troublesome canon. Several 
stores, three livery stables, two hotels — Kinney and Ouerey — a 
dozen or more rustic summer houses comprise the town. Many 
people come here in summer and camp for months. The hot 
springs are located on the west side of the Grand river, reached 
by a substantial wagon road bridge, and have become quite noted. 
The waters boil up from the base of a cliff at a temperature of 117 
degrees. 

Analysis of 100,000 parts of water made by Prof. Mallett, Jr., is: 

Carbonate of soda 38.44 

lithia Trace 

lime 11.02 

" iron 2.34 

bulphate of potassa 2.90 

soda 43.06 

Chloride of sodium 22.48 

Ammonia Trace 

Total 120.24 

Gases Car. a. c. 



68 



THE LOOP — SILVER PLUME. 



The bathing accommodations consist of a swimming bath in a 
stone building, and four small private bath rooms. On the east 
side of the river is a cold sulphur spring, but it is "running wild," 
and not in condition for use. Game — feathered, haired and scaled — 
on plain, mountain, and in river are abundant. 





TROM 
ETOWN SOUTHWEST TO SILVER PLUME. 



SEE ALSO LARGE VIEW NO. 2. 



From Georgetown west, the train hugs the mountain close on 
the left and south of the city, and turns up Clear creek directly for 
the end of the track, at Graymont. The grade is heavy and the 
route tortuous. All are breathless with expectation, as there seems 
to be only high mountains in front, with no opening for our little 
train — the track cannot be seen a dozen yards ahead — when just as 
one of our surprised fellow-travelers was saying "this is the devil's 
own road," the fiendish engineer dashes our train screeching into 
the " Devil's Gate." Some of our passengers dodged; many sniffed 
the air enquiringly as to the temperature, causing others to smile, 
but all rushed to the windows and stood as though transfixed alter- 
nately with fear, wonder and delight at the astonishing panorama 
passing rapidly before their eyes. A rail track can be seen high 
up on the side of the mountain, to the left, and another across the 
creek to the right — three parallel tracks — and in the near distance 
ahead, a bridge spanning the stream. About the same time our 
engineer must have made the same discovery and resolved to run 
over all the tracks. The locomotive screeched and made for the 
bridge and started back toward Georgetown on the west side track. 
Suddenly it seemed to have changed its mind and at the same 
time its course, as another bridge is crossed [probably the "bridge 
of sighs," as it was directly over the "bridal veil"], and away west- 
ward we rush again, " climbing the world." All for a few minutes 
seemed fair ahead when suddenly, like the snapping of a whip 
the train whirls to the " left face " and is running toward George- 
town again. We are certain now the engineer has lost his head, 
when again the whip snaps, and around we go once more headed 
for the west. — -(See large view No. 2). 

Silver Plume— [Pop., 700; ail engaged in mining]. — Situated on 
Clear creek, two miles west of Georgetown by wagon road, but 
by rail four and a half miles, as it is just above where the rail- 
tracks get mixed. First, the train runs into the " Devil's Gate," 
then turns back, crosses over the " bridal veil," making a " three- 
ply, horseshoe," a double "ox bow," but never for a hundred 
feet does it make a tangent on the whole distance. 

From the Plume it is one mile to the little mining town of 
Brownsville — [pop., 200] — and three more to the end of the track. 



GRAY'S PEAK — SIDE TOUR NO. 2. 69 

Orayiliont — [58 miles from Denver].— At Graymont take saddle 
animals and commence to climb the mountains, following up 
Grizzly gulch six miles to Kelso's cabin, from which it is about one 
mile to the summit of the "peak." A wagon road extends from 
Graymont to Kelso's cabin and carriages can be procured for that 
distance, if desired. In the tourist season the railroad company 
sell "round trip " tickets from Denver to the very top of the peak. 
Their rate is $9, including horse and guide from Graymont. The 
horses are safe and the guides experienced. Ladies may make the 
trip assured of care and attention. The hotel at Graymont is good 
and will accommodate large parties comfortably. Parties of less 
than three will have to pay $3.35 extra for guide. To three or 
over there will be no extra charge. For $9.25 the ticket will read 
via Central, and be good for five days. 

Gray's peak and Torrey's peak are near each other. The first 
is 14,441 feet, the second 14,336 feet above sea level. From the 
summit of Gray's peak, should the sky be clear, which is not 
uncommon, can be seen in a straight line, 35 miles to the south- 
west, the Mt. of "Holy Cross;" 86 miles southeast, "Pike's 
peak;" 33 miles west of south, Mts. "Lincoln" and " Bross ; " 
145 miles south, Mts. " Blanca " and " Baldy ; " 52 miles east of 
north, " Long's peak," besides huudreds of lesser peaks, such as 
Antero, Buckskin, Castle, Culebra, Elbert, Evans, Gothic, James, 
Massive, Princeton, Quandary, Shavano, Yale, etc.; in fact the 
view is almost unlimited. [To make the ascent, take heavy coats 
and wraps, and let stimulants alone.] 

The scenery up the route of Clear creek cation is very beautiful, 
and after reaching the summit of the " peak," one of the grandest 
mountain views in the world lies before the tourist. Should you 
see the sunset from the summit of this grand old mountain it 
would be indescribable; should you see it rise, you would feel like 
exclaiming with the poet: 

jy ' 

-. " The hills — the everlasting hills — 

How peerlessly they rise! 

Like earth's gigantic sentinels 

Discoursing in the skies!" 



This tour is one of the most attractive and cheapest that can be 
made from Denver, yet each of our tours have peculiar features 
of their own, and none should be omitted. 



Side Tour No. 2 — From Denver to Platte Canon, 
Kenosha, South Park, Fair Play, Buena Vista, St. Elmo, 
Alpine Tunnel to Gunnison City 

Taking the (narrow gauge) cars on the South Park branch of 
the Union Pacific, at 8 o'clock, a. m., we arrive at ST. Elmo, 153 
miles from Denver, at 5:30 p. m. Here we remain over night, have 
an opportunity to look around, and leave at 10:30 in the morning, 
passing through the great Alpine tunnel, and reaching Gunnison 
City at 5:30 p. m., affording a daylight view of the entire route. 

On this line there is only one passenger train a day. 

From the Union depot our route is south, crossing Cherry 
creek, and through the low lands of West Denver, then across the 
Platte river to its west bank, reaching Bear Creek Junction (in 
six miles), now called Moorville. y 



MORRISON BRANCH — PLATTE CANON. 



The Morrison branch turns west from this point, up Bear 
creek, nine miles to 

Morrison — [Pop.,400; from Denver, 17 miles].— At the entrance of 
Bear caiion. The principal occupation of the Morrisonians is con- 
nected with the stone quarries near the town. All the best red 
stone used for building purposes in Denver comes from this place. 
The principal objects of interest to the tourist in this vicinity are 
the soda lake, the springs of soda, sulphur and iron, Bear canon, 
Turkey creek caiion, the " Garden of the Angels," the game in 
the near mountains, and the trout in the streams. The scenery in 
many places is grand and beautiful. 

Abo.it one mile from the junction we come to Sheridan Sta- 
tion and "Uncle Sam." 

Fort Denver — Occupies a commanding position on a high 
plateau near the station, selected by "Little Phil" himself, and 
established in 1887. The post is in command of Maj. G. K. Brady, 
and garrisoned by companies A and E of the 18th Infantry. 

Li It lei on — Is a little town of 500 population, three and a half 
miles from Sheridan. It is a town with great expectations, standing 
astride the Platte river, with one foot beside the rail track of the 
Union Pacific system, and the other by the Denver & Rio Grande, 
and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. "Truck-farming, stock- 
raising and manipulating corner lots, ' ' are the principal occupations 
of the citizens. 

Eight miles more, through some fine track fields, we enter the 
mouth of 

Platte CailOll — [Enterprise P. O., 20 miles from Denver]. — One 
mile above the station, nearly ten years ago, a company of Eng- 
lish capitalists commenced the construction of a canal — usually 
called the "high line canal," to take the water from the Platte river 
and conduct it eastward over the prairies back of Denver for irri- 
gating, manufacturing and domestic purposes. At the initial point 
a dam was constructed, just above a sharp turn in the river caused 
by a projecting spur of the mountains coming down from the 
southward; a tunnel was cut 700 feet in length, 20 feet wide and 
10 feet high, taking the water from above the dam. It is then 
conducted along by a flume, cut out of the side of the canon walls, 
at an elevation sufficient to cover 59,250 acres of the rich slopes 
and valley lands of the Platte river, for a distance of 83 miles. 
The capacity of the canal is 1,184 cubic feet per second. 

From Denver to the mouth of the caiion the railroad grade is 
light, but for the next 40 miles it is in places 170 feet to the 
mile. Entering the mouth of the caiion the road turns west, 
crosses and recrosses the river many times while ascending the 
narrow gorge between towering mountains. Some are 2,000 feet 
in height, and almost overhanging the road. In places these 
mountains are sloping and covered with pine, spruce and cedar 
trees; in the summer the shrubs, moss, ferns and countless flowers 
clinging to and growing from every nook and crevice present a 
scene of gorgeous beauty — a scene where the God of nature has dis- 
played His handiwork far beyond the comprehension of mortal 
beings. 

The Chinese catch, dry and ship home to China, a large amount of sturgeon 
and salmon at points on the Columbia river. 



PLATTE CANON — KENOSHA HILL. 71 

Five miles up, Stephen's Gulch; another mile, Deansbury, 
where is a large summer boarding house; three miles, South 
PlaTTE; two miles, Dome Rock, a mammoth dome-shaped rock, 
on the south side, far up the mountain side. A short distance 
above a foot bridge spans the river to a little park, which, in the 
summer, is a great resort for picnic parties from the valley. 

Passing Dome rock, we are whirled along over a solid road-bed, 
through and around the projecting mountain spurs, with rapid and 
ever-changing scenery on either side; two miles brings us to Ver- 
million; then two to Park Siding or Last Resort; three to 
Buffalo, three to Pine Grove, three to Hildebrand's and 
three to Thompson's. The last six stations named above are of 
little interest to the traveler, being for the accommodation of 
wood choppers and lumbermen in the vicinity. 

Two miles more is Crosson's, where is located the Saxonia 
Smelting & Refining works, as there are some rich mines in the 
vicinity. Just above, the canon becomes a narrow gorge, with per- 
pendicular or overhanging cliffs rising to a great height, bare and 
grand in their rugged outlines. A few more revolutions of the 
wheels and the mountain sides slope away, and we are at 

Estabrook Park — Four miles from Crosson's. This place 
presents some attractions as a summer resort, particularly to those 
fond of hunting and fishing. In the adjacent country, deer, bear, 
and other game are quite plentiful, and in Deer creek and other 
small creeks that reach the Platte river near here, trout of the finest. 

Three miles further is Bailey's. Here the near mountains on 
either side are low and covered with a young growth of pine and 
cedar trees, with high timber-covered elevations in the distance. 

Passing Slaght's in four miles, Grant in seven, Webster in 
three, our train curves to the right up Hall's gulch; then, by 
looking far up the mountain side to the left, can be seen the road- 
way over which we will soon be traveling and looking down to this 
point. As our little train labors up a grade of 158 feet to the mile, 
in and out around the fingers of the mountain (at one moment on 
the very of the finger, only a few inches from 'a perpendicular drop 
of hundreds of feet, then shying away with a shriek of defiance up 
the other side of the finger, which is the turning point in a narrow 
canon gorge), the same is repeated time and time and again until 
the summit is reached, and our train stops at 

KeilOKlia — [Elevation, 9,972 feet; 76 miles from Denver]. — The air at 
this point is rather thin, but then it. may be well to try and get 
accustomed to it, as we shall stand 1,624 feet higher before the tour 
is ended. 

Leaving the station a few miles brings our train to the extreme 
southern point of Kenosha hill, and as it curves away to the west 
and northward, one of the finest views in America, if not in the 
world, can be seen. The valley of the South Park, 50 miles in length 
by 10 in width, is before your eye in all its beauty. It is bordered 
on the east by a heavily timbered range, 2,000 feet above the valley, 
while to the west, the "snowy range" — the summit of the "rockies" 
—extend as far as the eye can reach. In this range in plain view 
are a number of the highest peaks in Colorado, among which are 
the Guyot, Hamilton, Lincoln, Bross, Buckskin, Horseshoe and 
Silver Heels, that vary in altitude from 13,565 feet to 14,336 feet 
above the level of the ocean. {See illustration on next page. ) 



72 



SOUTH PARK — GRAND VIEW. 




From the standpoint of Kenosha hill can be seen the track of 
our road in places for full 40 miles, as it winds away to the south- 
ward. Towns, villages, stations, the Platte river and tributaries, 
farm houses, ranches and numberless flocks and herds can be 
seen, fairly rivalling the famed "valley of Bagdad," of ancient story. 

In the "park" and adjoining mountains game, such as ante- 
lope, deer, elk, bear, mountain lions, grouse and rabbits, are 
plentiful, with an occasional band of mountain sheep, while the 
streams are alive with the finest trout. 



LONDON BRANCH — FAIRPLAY. 73 

Descending into the park, JEFFERSON is the first station, four 
miles from Kenosha, on Jefferson creek. Stock-raising, hay cut- 
ting and mining — gold, silver and coal — are the chief occupations 

of about 60 settlers. 

Connections— Mail hack: Southeast to Mountaindale, 27 miles, once a 
week. 

Two miles and we cross Tarryall creek — up which three miles, 
in 1860, was a booming mining town known as "Tarryall diggings. " 
Then many hundred people worked along the creek in the gulches, 
and away up the mountain canons. It was here the writer first saw 
the scheme of placer mining and the day was July 5, 1860. At 
that date the "scheme " was to sell out. We noted the situation, 
did not bite, but departed for Denver a wiser "tenderfoot." The 
placers gave out and were abandoned. 

Como — [Pop., 800; from Denver, 88 miles; elevation, 9,775 feet]. — Is a 
regular meal station and the junction of the Leadville branch, 
which turns to the northwest from here, over the mountains. We 
shall interview it in due time. Extensive coal mines are located near; 
also some quartz mines a few miles to the westward. The coal 
veins are from seven to ten feet thick of good coking quality — 
are owned by the railroad company, who use large quantities them- 
selves and ship much more. 

The appearance of the mountain ranges for the next 20 miles 
presents new beauties and surprises at every turn. And as the 
train winds around in and out of the spurry fingers thrust out from 
the huge ranges on each side, the scene is kaleidoscopic and beau- 
tiful in the extreme. 

From Como it is five miles to Red Hill, then nine miles to 
Arthurs, from which it is two miles to 

GarOi — [Pop-, 5°; from Denver, 104 miles; elevation, 9,172 feet]. — Situ- 
ated Oil a branch of the South Platte river, at the junction of the 

London Branch of the Union Pacific system. This line fol- 
lows up the valley of the Platte, to the northwest, directly for the 
mountains. 

Fftirpl&y — [Pop., 300; from Garos, 10 miles; Denver, 114 miles; elevation, 
9,886 feet]. — It is the seat of Park county, one of the oldest mining 
towns in Colorado. It is situated on the middle fork of the South 
Platte river. Placer mining in early days, was the sole occupation 
of the settlers; some work of the kind is still done, but stock- 
raising and quartz mining overshadow all other kinds of business. 
Of late, many of the old abandoned placer mines are being worked 
over by the Chinese. 

The Mosquito, Horseshoe and several other mining districts lie 
on the park slope of the mountains, the base of which is five miles 
to the westward. These districts are said to contain some of the 
best mines in the state. At Fairplay there is one smelting furnace, 
another about two miles west on Sacramento gulch and the Hol- 
land works on Pennsylvania gulch, three and a half miles west. 

The Flume is a weekly paper, and the Bergh the principal 

hotel here. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southwest to Platte Station, 13 miles, once a 
week. 

LoiMIOIl — [From Fairplay, five and a half miles; elevation 10,228 feet]. 

A small mining town of about 50 population, containing one 

ore concentrator and a small stamp-mill. It is the end of our road. 

Connections — Mail hack: North one and a half miles, to Alma, six times a 
week. 



74 SALT — DID NOT SAVE. 



Alma — Is a rnining camp containing about 300 population, sit- 
uated at the junction of Buckskin creek with the Middle Fork of 
the Platte river. It has one sampling works and a variety of stores, 
hotels, and one weekly newspaper. Some of the placer mines in 
the vicinity are said to pay well, and several companies are engaged 
in hydraulic mining. 

The quartz lodes carry gold, silver, copper and lead. Park 
City, a small mining town, is two miles west. 

The scenery about Alma is very grand, as it is situated at the 

base of Mt. Lincoln, altitude, 14,296 feet, and Mt. Bross. It is on 

the Mosquito pass road, over the mountains to Leadville; distance, 

17 miles. 

Connections — Mail hack: From London, one and a half miles, six times a 
week; also, west to Park City, two miles, six times a week. 

J8s§=T'The tourist will find a trip over this branch of the road a 
sojourn and ramble about the old placers and other mines in the 
vicinity, and a climb up and around Mts. Lincoln and Bross near 
at hand, a tour of great interest, conducive to health and general 
information. 

From Garos south, the park widens, hay fields are seen, but 
the stock-raisers possess the park range very generally; several 
small stations are passed as well as the main stream of the South 
Platte, and numberless small creeks. 

Salt that did not save. After crossing the Platte river salt 
marshes and lakes of salt water appear. Near on the left are 
located the first and only salt works in Colorado, and thereby 
" hangs a tale." When these works were erected in 1864 all the 
salt used in the whole western country had to be freighted from the 
Missouri river, 700 miles away, at a cost for freight alone of from 
five to 30 cents per pound. When the springs near the works 
were discovered they were thought to be very valuable, and no 
little contention arose as to the title. However, the first claims 
were settled, the works erected and salt making commenced, and 
proved very profitable for a time, until, as is too often the case in 
the west, litigation commenced between partners, followed by 
injunction after injunction, until all parties interested were impov- 
erished. Meantime the railroads were advancing day by day which 
meant cheap salt. The lawyers commenced their work in 1865, 
and succeeded in closing the works in 1867. The lawyers got the 
works and the owners got salted. 



Passing on, our train soon begins to climb the southern rim of 
the park. 

Hill Top — Is on the top or summit of Trout creek pass; alti- 
tude, 9,460 feet. Here the waters divide, on the east side finding 
their way into the Platte, and on the west side into the Arkansas 
river. From this little station we fairly fall away to the valley of 
the Arkansas, nearly 2,000 feet, in the next 26 miles. Near this sta- 
tion comes in the Midland railroad from Colorado Springs. 



From Hill Top we obtain the first view of the great Sawache 
range, which separates the Gunnison and San Juan country from 
the valley of the Arkansas. The drainage from the west side goes 
to the Pacific ocean, that on the east to the Atlantic. Across these 
mountains we must pass in about a southwest direction from this 
station. 



BUENA VISTA — HOT SPRINGS. 75 

Two miles from Hill Top is a little station called Divide, where 
are located a store, a saw-mill, and a few settlers, and about one mile 
below on the right can be seen the largest and finest spring of 
fresh cold water in the state. It is the head of Trout creek, and 
the crystal fluid fairly rushes out beneath a high cliff close to the 
road. Just below on the left side are others, but not as large. In 
the streams flowing from these springs and in the creek, "speckled 
beauties " are very abundant; those fond of fine trout take notice. 

Mt'GeCS — [From Hill Top, seven miles; elevation, 8,648 feet]. — Some- 
times called "Trout City," is situated in a romantic little park of 
fine scenery; haired game is abundant in the hills and trout in the 
creeks, all then that is wanted after "bagging" the game is a 
good cook and a good appetite, which last you are pretty sure to 
have if you catch the game. 

Descending the creek at a rapid rate, with towering mountain 
ridges — pine-clad — on each side, we come in view of the Arkansas 
valley. Six miles from McGees our train crosses the Arkansas 
river, and stops a moment at SchwanderS, a junction station, 
turns north, four miles up the valley to 

BlIClKl Vi§ttl — [Pop., 2,000; from Denver, 136 miles; Eeadville, 36 
miles; elevation, 7,943 feet]. — Is the seat of Chaffee county, situated at 
the junction of Cottonwood creek with the Arkansas river ; the 
county buildings, churches and schools, as well as some business 
blocks and hotels, are creditable structures. Here we find a cozy 
little opera house which seats 300 people; there are several hotels, 
but little choice. The city has a system of water works, and two 
newspapers — Times and Herald, both weekly. 

The construction of irrigating canals has made available for 
agricultural purposes hundreds of acres of land in the vicinity of 
the tow 1, once covered with scrub pines and cedar trees. 

Mining and stock-raising is the principal occupation of the 
settlers in the vicinity, yet some small grains and vegetables are 
raised successfully. 

To the w r est, ranging north and south, is the Sawache range of 
mountains, sometimes called the "Collegiate." Directly opposite 
Buena Vista rises Mt. Yale; elevation, 14,187 feet; to the south- 
west, Mt. Princeton; elevation, 14,199 feet; to the northwest, Mt. 
Harvard; elevation, 14,383 feet. The bases of these mountains are 
from eight to 12 miles away, rising from the valley without inter- 
vening foot-hills. 

Cottonwood Hot Springs — Are situated at the mouth of Cot- 
tonwood canon six miles west and connected by stage with Buena 
Vista. For cases of inflammatory rheumatism, lead poisoning and 
diseases of the blood, these waters possess remarkable curative 
properties. The scenery of the valley in which the springs are 
situated is of great loveliness — the Collegiate range of mountains 
forming an imposing back-ground. Fine trout fishing can be 
found in ten minutes' walk up and down Cottonwood creek, and 
the neighboring hills abound in game. 

Cottonwood L,ake — Is six miles west of the hot springs up 
the creek. It is a beautiful little sheet of water and swarming 
with the finest trout, and in season the hillsides are covered with 
wild raspberries, currants and strawberries. 



Connections — Denver & Rio Grande aad Colorado Midland railroads, 
and stages for Cottonwood Springs. 



DETOUR — TO TWIN LAKES. 



I><*1 our — A very interesting detour can be made from Buena 
Vista by taking either the Denver & Rio Grande, or the Colorado 
Midland northward, as follows: 

The country, as we proceed, is rough, broken and covered with 
scrub pines and cedars, sandwiched with sage brush and garnished 
with bunch-grass. Ten miles north from Buena Vista and we are 
directly opposite Mt. Harvard. 

GrailitC — [Pop., 100; from Buena Vista, iS miles]. — Was a mining 
town in 1861 and has had a number of ups and downs. It has now 
a few stores, powder mill, smelting works and "good prospects. " 

Clear creek reaches the Arkansas from the west — opposite 
Granite. On this creek only a few miles distant, placer mines are 
being worked and — reports say — "they are paying well," but the 
"placers" are about mined out in this section of country, and the 
stock-men have taken possession and are doing well. 

La Platta peak is directly west; altitude, 14,311 feet. 

Connections — Mail hack: West to Vicksburg, ii miles; Winfield, 
four miles, six times a week; also, northwest to Inter Laken, six miles; Twin 
LAKes, three miles, six times a week. 

Twin Lakes — the most charming, quiet summer resort in 
the mountains — is situated at the eastern base of the Sawache 
range of mountains at an altitude of 9,333 feet on Twin Lake 
creek, an important tributary of the Arkansas river. Hunter's 
pass is directly west, and Lake Creek pass to the southwest. The 
lower lake covers 1,525 and the upper 475 acres, the length being 
about double the width. The upper lake is about five feet the 
higher, connected by a small stream, which ripples over a pebby 
bottom clear, pure and cold, half a mile in length through grassy 
meadow lands studded with scattering shade trees, affording 
delightful grounds for campers or picnic parties. The surround- 
ings are most grand and beautiful. Just to the head of the lakes 
on the north stands Mt. Elbert, uncovered except by a mantle 
of snow, in respect for the beauties on every side, at an altitude of 
14,360 feet, or 5,027 feet above the level of the lakes. To the 
south, opposite, are the Twin peaks and Grizzly, some less in 
altitude, but none the less beautiful in their varied coloring of 
green, gray and gold. The lakes lie in a general direction from 
east to west; on the south side the mountains rise from the 
water's edge, covered with pine, spruce, aspen trees and shrubs, 
extending to the timber-line, where game of all kinds is abundant, 
including the grizzly bear, mountain grouse and quail. On the 
north side along the shore is a good carriage road, and a grassy 
bottom, back of which the country is a rolling prairie, with bluffs 
near the base of the mountains covered with a scrubby growth of 
pine and cedar trees. The accommodations for tourists consist of 
five hotels and a number of small cottages. 

The lakes abound in trout. Boats and tackle are provided at 
the hotels, and those that could not be happy at Twin Lakes we 
fear will find the great hereafter an uncomfortable abiding place. 

Besides the hotels and cottages the place has a post office, 
store, restaurants and saloons, and to the westward some good 
"prospects" for minerals — gold and silver. Resident population 
about 250, many of whom are engaged in the mines. 

Had the Pilgrims landed on the Pacific coast instead of Plymouth Rock, that 
old "blarney stone" would now be surrounded by the native nomadic races. 



HORTENSES — ST. EEMO. 77 

From Buena Vista our train turns back to Schwanders, and 
branches to the southward, crossing the track of the Denver &Rio 
Grande railway in three miles and reaching the junction station of 

\ ill ll lO|> — [Eight miles, from Buena Vista].— This is a small station 
situated on the west bank of the Arkansas river at the junction of 
Chalk creek, which comes down from the west, and the Denver 
& Rio Grande railway. 

At Nathrop our course is directly west up Chalk creek, four 
miles to Haywards and one mile more to 

HortdlSC — [Pop., 200; from Denver, 142 miles; elevation, 8,169 feet]. 
Is noted for Hortenses. Here are the famous Hortense hot springs, 
and the Hortense group of mines, the Hortense post office, and the 
Hortense hotel, kept by Hortense. The Hortense mine is said to 
be a Hortense "bonanza", while the Hortense springs are recom- 
mended for their curative properties in. cases of rheumatism, etc. 



From a few miles west from Nathrop the railroad is built along 
the creek bank, with high bluffs on both sides, the distance grad- 
ually narrowing, until just above Hortense the contraction takes 
the shape of a mountain gorge, and well it may, as Mt. Princeton 
rises from the water's edge on the north to an altitude of 14,199 
feet, while on the south and directly opposite towers Mt. Antero, 
14,245 feet, while beyond only a short distance looms up Mt. 
Shavano, 14,239 feet; Chalk creek, our road and train make but a 
small thread in the landscape compared with such elevated sur- 
roundings. 

1 Alpilie — [Pop., 600; from Hortense, six miles; Denver, 149 miles; eleva- 
tion, 9,247 feet] — is a mining town, hemmed in on two sides by lofty 
mountains, several of which exceed in altitude 14,000 feet, and 
upon which the "beautiful snow" can be found at all seasons. 

Sampling and smelting works, a bank, several stores, hotels 
and a weekly newspaper comprise the principal business of the 
town. 

The principal mines are the Murphy and Tilden, Living- 
ston and Britenstine groups. The ore runs from $50 to $125 per ton. 

St. liJlllO — [Pop., 550; from Alpine, five miles; elevation, 10,041 feet]. 
Is a mining town of great promise. Everybody here is engaged 
directly or indirectly in the mining business. The mines are all 
true fissure veins, the ore running in galena, carrying gold, silver, 
copper, iron and sulphide of silver. The town contains one smelt- 
ing works, besides the usual number of stores, hotels, schools, 
churches, newspapers, etc. w 

Capital can find here an opportunity for investment in legiti- 
mate mining, second to none in the state. There are a great 
many good mines in the vicinity, but we have not the space to 
particularize. 

Connections — Mail hack: West to Drew, 12 miles, and Tin Cup, three 
miles, six times a week. 



Leaving St. Elmo it is two miles to Romeey, and three miles to 
Hancock— [Pop., 250; elevation, 11,005 feet].— Is situated at the head 
of Chalk creek away up upon the eastern slope of the Sawache or 
the main chain of the Rocky mountains, in a little valley sur- 
rounded by towering snow-clad peaks on all sides, affording scenic 
views of great magnificence. Mining is the chief or only industry, 
and there are scores of valuable mines in the vicinity. 




WEST FROM TUK MOUTH OF ALPINE TUNNEL. 

See opposite page. 



One of the many little side tours that can be made from Portland, Oregon, is 
via O. R. &N. steamers up the Willamette river, through the locks at Oregon 
City to Salem, the capital, and to Albany. 



ALPINE TUNNEL. 



Continuing to climb three miles more, and we are completely 
hemmed in by the lofty mountains with no possible way to get 
out; just here is the entrance to the world-renowned 

Alpine Tunnel — This remarkable piece of work, the result 
of fine engineering skill and "Paddy's brawny arms," is 11,-596 
feet above the level of the sea — above "timber-line" — above where 
trees and vegetation grow, or animal life is found; all is rock; 
little rocks, big rocks and the "rock of ages. " The air is pure and 
thin; here at times the charming mountain zephyr plays seduc- 
tive airs and anon the blizzard sports a round of pranks which 
tend to "bull" the stock of the inferno. Snow lies in perpetual 
banks on either side, but flowers in season, bright and fragrant, 
fill the frosty air with their perfume, and light it with their colors. 
Somewhere along the way the seasons embrace; for though it be 
summer in the valley it is not summer here — only as these flowery 
symbols sweetly defy the frosty nip. 

The tunnel, aside from its approaches, is 1,773 feet in length, 
14 feet in width, and 17 feet in height, and with one exception, it 
is the highest point in the world reached by steam-cars, and that 
exception is in the South American Alps. 

In passing through the tunnel you are transferred from the 
Atlantic to the Pacific slope. The point of change is in the cen- 
ter, and the impetus tells the moment it is crossed. The engine, 
just before is groaning at its lift, now shouts in triumph, and the 
engineer sets her heels for the decent. The view from the rear 
end of the car while passing through the tunnel is quite an inter- 
esting one. The light on entering is large and bright, the smooth 
rails glisten like burnished silver in the sun's ray. Gradually the 
light lessens in brilliancy; the rails become two long ribbons of 
silver, sparkling through the impenetrable darkness; gradually 
these lessen; the light fades, and fades, and fades; the entrance is 
apparently not larger than a pin's head, and then all light is gone 
and darkness reigns supreme, and still we are not through, but 
grope on, and marvel, and hope. Suddenly we emerge from the 
tunnel, and a bright vision of beauty dawns upon us. The view 
takes in a vast extent of country. The San Juan mountains are to 
be seen 150 miles away to the southwest; Uncompahgre peak 
stands forth in great prominence a little further west — overlooking 
the cities of Ouray and Lake; the valley of the Gunnison is spread 
out directly west with the city of Pitkin only ten miles away. 
Turning now to the right that long black range is the Elk moun- 
tains, and in the foreground, Mt. Gothic and Crested Butte. 
Within the range of vision are many lovely valleys, large bodies 
ot timber, towering mountains, numberless rivers and sparkling 
streams, bustling cities, towns and mining camps, and dotted in 
all directions with the settler's industries, and freckled with his 
herds and flocks. 

Close on the left and rising perpendicularly, are the mountains 
along which our roadway has been blasted from the solid rock. 
{See illustration.) From the high shelf and palisade thus formed 
is an appalling depth, terminating away down in the valley into 
which there is a gradual, sinuous descent, while the near surround- 
ing natural wonders are indescribable. 

In the western mining camps you will often meet an illiterate millionaire in 
greasy buckskin, and a college graduate in rags. 



80 GUNNISON CITY AND VALLEY. 

Descending with great caution, we pass the small stations of 
Woodstock, Valley, Midway and Quartz, and stop at 

PitRill— [Pop., 1,500; from St. Elmo, 21 miles; Denver, 174 miles; Gunni- 
son City, 27 miles; elevation, 9,180 feet].— Named for Ex-Governor Pitkin; 
situated on Quartz creek, in a little park gradually sloping to the 
southward, between two high timber-covered mountain ranges, 
which contain many rich and productive mines. The principal 
occupations of the citizens are mining, lumbering and merchan- 
dising. The ores carry both gold and silver. Pitkin is fully pro- 
vided with stores and shops of all kinds, a bank, two quartz mills, 
one sampling works, five saw-mills, good churches, schools and 
one weekly newspaper, the Mining News. The Commercial is the 
principal hotel. Surrounding Pitkin are a number of small min- 
ing camps tributary to it for business. Game of many kinds is 
found in the vicinity, and the finest trout can be caught from the 
streams for the labor of throwing a fly. 

Leaving Pitkin and following down Quartz creek, Ohio City, 
a small mining camp of 200 people, is six miles from Pitkin, from 
which it is eight miles to 

Parlill§— [From Pitkin, 15 miles; Gunnison City, 12 miles; elevation, 
7,649 feet].— Is situated on Tomichi river, and consists of a hotel, 
grocery, blacksmith shop, and Parlin, one of the oldest settlers in 
this region of country. Stock-raising is the only industry in this 
vicinity except cutting hay and raising potatoes. 

Connections — The D. & R. G. railway and a mail hack south, to Cuerin, 
20 miles, once a week. 



GlllllliSOn — [Pop., 3,000; elevation, 7,649 feet; from Denver, 201 miles; 
Salt Lake City, 445 miles] — is the seat of Gunnison county, and has 
become famous the world ever as the commercial center of an im- 
mense mining region; and as more eloquent pens than our "Faber" 
have sounded its praises throughout the land in well merited 
terms, we have little more to add than a plain statement of its 
present status, leaving out cold statistics and flights of fancy. 

The valley of the Gunnison, according to our geologists, was 
once a great lake the waters of which cut their way through the 
rim of the great basin, thus forming the Grand canon of the Gun- 
nison river, one most wonderful in all its features. The soil in the 
valley is a light, sandy loam, and resting upon about 25 feet of 
gravel containing small boulders, at the bottom of which water 
of the best quality can be obtained. Surrounding this great valley, 
from 20 to 35 miles distant, are high mountain ranges where are 
situated the rich mineral deposits, and from which flow the Gun- 
nison, Taylor, Ohio, Willow, Sapinero, West Elk, Beaver, Tom- 
ichi, and many other streams carrying an abundance of water, 
making this valley one of the best watered in the state. All these 
streams in their descent from the snow-clad mountains tend to 
one central point near the middle of the valley, where is located 
Gunnison City, which, from a geographical stand, is destined to 
be always the distributing point for the surrounding country. 
Along many of these streams vegetables are grown successfully, 
and wild grasses afford an abundance of hay that finds a ready 
market in the mining regions at good prices. On all the 
hills and in the mountains, the stock-raist rs find an abundance of 
of the richest feed for their cattle and sheep, of which the country 
is well supplied. 



BALDWIN COAI, MINES. 81 

The altitude of Gunnison City is 2,456 feet higher than Denver, 
and 2,520 feet lower than Leadville. The city is located on a neck 
of land two miles in width, lying between the Gunnison river on 
the north and Tomichi creek on the south, about two miles above 
the junction of the two streams. The streets are laid out 100 feet 
in width, beside which streams of pure water are conducted and 
many shade trees planted, that in time will add materially to the 
beauty as well as the health of the city. 

For the benefit of those who might desire to stop over in Gun- 
nison, the La Veta house is the largest, finest and most complete 
hotel in Colorado, built of brick and stone, and cost upwards of 
$250,000. 

Many of the merchants of Gunnison City are of the most sub- 
stantial class, have large buildings of stone and brick, and carry 
very large stocks of merchandise of all kinds. Besides the mer- 
cantile class the city has two banks, an opera house, seating 500, 
a fine court building, several churches, three schools, three plan- 
ing mills, several saw-mills, a foundry and machine shop, smelting 
works, ore-sampling works, half dozen hotels, chief of which are 
the La Veta, Palisades and Dawson; two newspapers, the Review- 
Press and the News-Democrat, together with the railroad round- 
houses and machine shops, which add materially to the business 
of the city. Besides the great mineral wealth in gold, silver and 
precious metals tributary to Gunnison City, are her coal mines, 
.which are quite numerous. At Carbon mountain, 18 miles north, 
via Ohio creek, are large deposits of bituminous coal, which are 
mined and used in the city, and also in the adjoining towns. 
Anthracite coal is also found in several localities that is said to 
equal the coal of Pennsylvania. 

Then there are immense deposits of iron ore and quarries of 
marble, granite and sandstone. 

Timber is also abundant in the surrounding mountains, as well 

as game, both large and small, of all kinds; and trout — well, the 

Gunnison country is the trouts' home. Any ordinary tenderfoot 

can catch them. ■ 

Connections — 1). & R. G. railway and Crested Butte branch, 28 miles to 
Crested Butte, where are located extensive quartz and placer mines; also 
iron and coal and coke ovens. 



The South Park branch of the Union Pacific runs north from 
Gunnison City up Ohio creek through a settled country where 
wheat, oats, hay and potatoes are the principal crops raised, seven 
miles to TeachouT, three miles to Hinkles, three miles to Cas- 
TeeTon, and three miles more to 

Baldwin— [is miles from Gunnison city]. — Here are extensive de- 
posits of coal, owned by the railroad company, who use large quan- 
tities and ship more. 

From Baldwin a mail hack runs northwest to Mt. Carbon, six 
miles, and thence to Irwin, five and a half miles, six times a 
week. 

Having concluded the Gunnison tour we return to Denver. 



Ugg^For authentic information about, and descriptions of the 
Royal Gorge, Marshall Pass, the Black Canon of the Gunnison, 
Castle Gate and the Denver &Rio Grande railway, buy CROFEUT'S 
Overeand Tours, No. 2. The line represented in red on the map 
in this book covers that route and all over California. 



SIDE TOUR NO. 3 — BOREAS. 



Side Tour No. 3 — From Denver to Breckenridge, 
Leadvieee, Red Ceifk, Geenwood Springs to Aspen. 

Leaving Denver, as in tour No. 2, we follow the same route to 
Conio, 88 miles from Denver. 



From Como our route is to the northwest up Tarryall creek, 
through the old placers so famous in I860, and curving around on 
a spur of the mountains, climbing rapidly, we reach a point where 
the view of the South Park, Conio, Jefferson, Kenosha, Pike's 
peak and the front range of mountains is most grand, covering a 
great extent of country, plains, valleys and a bewildering wreck 
of mountains — worth a long journey to behold. 

Boreas — [Elevation, 11,470 feet]. — Is situated on the summit of 
Breckenridge pass, ten miles from Como, on the "snowy range," 
the "backbone" of the continent. Should a bucket full of 
" Adam's ale " be emptied on the summit ou this ridge, a short dis- 
tance from the station, it would separate, one portion finding its 
way to the Gulf of Mexico, and the other to the Gulf of California. 

There is little use for steam in descending the mountains for 
the next 12 miles to Breckenridge, except to manage the brakes, as 
we drop away in that distance, 1,946 feet, over 162 feet to the 
mile. 

The route down the mountain is most tortuous; surprises come 
thick and fast. Our train whirls into deep aud dismal gorges sur- 
rounded by firs and pines, ten-score feet in height, another whirl, 
and we are on the point of a rocky promontory wdiich rises sheer 
500 feet above a parallel track below; another whirl, a 
grand detour, aud we are running back upon that parallel track; 
again we round a headland, tbe track is not there, it has dodged 
away up a long ravine only to double back upon itself, and so it 
goes. Four parallel tracks are to be seen at different times and 
places, rising one above the other on the face of pine-clad moun- 
tains, rugged in the extreme. 

At points on this wild zigzag run down and around the moun- 
tain spurs, the scenic views are most marvelous. Mts. Fletcher, 
Quandary, Buckskin and many other towering peaks are in view 
to the west and southwest, while to the north the view of Mts. 
Gray and Torrey and Powell are very fine. In rounding one of the 
many bold headlands, the valley of the Blue river is suddenly 
brought to view, together with the city of Breckenridge, and 
thousands of acres of old and new placer mines. [See illustration 
on next page.) 

During the season when work can be done, in nearly every 
ravine and gulch along the line of the road down the mountains 
where water can be stored for use, can be seen miners with their 
various devices washing the gravel and gathering the golden 
scales and nuggets for which this region of country is noted. 

Probably there is not another stretch of railroad in the world 
that runs over more wealth in gold than the line from Como to 
Breckenridge. 

BreeKeiiridjje — [Pop., 2,000; from Como, 22 miles; Denver, no miles; 
elevation, 9,524 feet]. — The seat of Summit county, situated on the 
Blue river, on the western slope of the Rocky mountains, and is 
strictly a mining town. 



GRAY AND TORREY'S PEAKS — FROM PASS. 



83 



. 







iiwlSlijiiiit 

■111€- 



'„' ! *: ;, ! l' 




CROSSING BRECKENRIDGE PAH 



As early as 1859-60 this region for many miles around and 
about, where the city is now located, was known as the Blue river 
placer diggings, and many stories of wonderful finds are 
recorded. At that time the whole country was alive with miners. 
French, Georgia, Iowa, Hamburg, Swan, Buffalo, Illinois and 
other gulches to the east and north contained thousands of gold- 
miners. 



84 KEYSTONE BRANCH — ROBINSON. 

In 1863-H I the placers were abandoned and supposed to have been 
worked out. The miners at that time knew nothing about hydraulic 
mining or quartz lodes and the old camps were deserted. 

From the time of the rich carbonate discoveries at Leadville, 
of 1878-9, dates a new era in the mining industry in Colorado. It 
filled the whole mountain region of the state with prospectors and 
the hnnt for rich quartz lodes and deposits commenced, and with 
what success the cities of Breckenridge, Silverton, Ourav, Red 
Mountain and many others stand forth as monuments — endorsed 
by milious in gold, silver, copper and lead added to the wealth of 
the country. 

Breckenridge has all the requisite trade, religious and educa- 
tional facilities and the latest improvements and luxuries of civili- 
zation. The Denver is the principal hotel, and the Journal and 
the Leader are newspapers published here. 

There are several smelters, mills and sampling-works near the 
town; also extensive operations in hydraulic placer mining. 

Breckenridge is surrounded by small mining towns and camps, 
whsre are located mills and extensive placer mining operations. 

Connections — Mail hack: East to Lincoln, four miles, six times a week. 



From Breckenridge our direction is northward, down the val- 
ley of the Blue river, past mills, canals and placer mining on both 
sides. Sixteen miles brings our train to I)i ckev. Here the Key- 
stone Branch continues down to Dillon, three miles at the 
junction of the Blue and Snake rivers, where it turns up the Snake 
eastward to Keystone, four miles, at the end of the track. 

Connections— At Dillon, D. & R. G. railway, and mail hack down the Blue 
river northwest to Colorow, 36 miles; Kremmling, ten miles; thence east to 
Troublesome, seven miles, and Hot Sulphur Springs (Middle Park), 12 miles, 
once a week. 

Connections are made at Kremmling with stages for the north 
and west. 

At Keystone, mail hack east to the mining towns of Monte- 
zuma, ten miles; Chihuahua, three miles, six times a week; 
fare, $1.50 and $2. 

Leaving Dickey, our road curves westward and then to the south 
into, and follows up Ten Mile Canon (parallel with the track of 
the D. & R. G. road, which extends from Leadville to Dillon), 
passing Frisco and WHEELER, both . small mining towns, and 
reach Kokomo — [Pop., 500; elevation. 10,642 feet] — in 17 miles. 

RohillKOll — [Pop. 500]. — Is one mile beyond Kokomo, both of 
which are strictly mining towns. They are situated on the eastern 
slope of Sheep mountain, with the valley of Ten Mile creek to the 
eastward, which is a half to a mile wide, and covered with a heavy 
growth of wild grasses. The scenery is grand. To the east and 
south rise mountains to great heights; the most prominent peak is 
Mt. Fletcher, 14,205 feet above sea level. In the background 
Sheep mountain rises 12,648 feet; to the north, Gray's peak. Game 
of many kinds can be found in easy distance, such as deer, elk, 
bear, grouse, quail, hare, rabbits, etc. 

The towns are well supplied with stores, shops of all kinds and 
many of the modern improvements of the times. There are three 
smelting works, one the largest in the mountains. The chief 
hotels are the Robinson at that town, and the Western at 
Kokomo. 



FREMONT'S PASS— LEADVILLE. 85 

The quartz mines in the vicinity are counted up in the thous- 
ands, are all true fissure veins, and many very rich in carbonates, 
galena and sulphurites, averaging $180, and selected ore $800 per 
ton. Placer claims are also being worked in the vicinity, with 
more or less profit. 

Jsg^The railroad facilities of Kokomo and Robinson are fur- 
nished by both the Union Pacific and the Denver & Rio Grande 
systems, the latter via Leadville. The distance from Robinson to 
Leadville via the former is 17 miles, by the latter, 16 miles. The 
views of scenery by either route are equally fine. 

Remember This ! — From a point to the westward of Robin- 
son, reached in an hour's walk, a view can be had surpassing all 
words of description. 

We have shown that the scenery on this tour is grand and of 
great diversity, but in our opinion, the crowning attraction in all 
Colorado can best be seen from this point — to the northwest — the 

Mount of Holy Cross — Its summit is 14,176 feet above the 
level of the sea, and presents the appearance as illustrated on page 
88. Xo tourist or person visiting Colorado from any part of the 
world, or any person possessing a soul to appreciate the sublime 
and beautiful in nature, should fail to visit and pay their respects 
to this grand old mountain and its immense great white cross 
firmly implanted amid the eternal rocks by the hand of the Great 
Maker, as it were, a perpetual symbol of purity, hope and 
redemption. 

From this same point many of the highest peaks in Colorado 
can be distinctly seen. To the eastward, Mts. Fletcher, Quandary 
and Buckskin; to the north, Gray and Torrey; to the southwest, 
Mts. Elbert, Massive, LaPlatte, Harvard and Yale; to the west, the 
Homestake and many others, including Aspen mountain. 



From Robinson it is three miles to Climax, a small station on 
the summit of Fremont's Pass; altitude, 11,292 feet, the second 
in height on this line. 

Soon after leaving the summit, close to the eastward Buckskin 
mountain rises sheer 2,004 feet above our head, and many lesser 
peaks stand forth, body guards, as it were, in bold array. 

Continuing our journey, winding in, out and around the moun- 
tain fingers thrust out towards a lovely little valley that we are 
overlooking on the right, 14 miles and the "carbonate camp," 
Leadville, is reached. 

(.leittlville — [Pop.. i\5co; from Denver, 151 miles; elevation, io.iy.5 feet] 
Is the seat of Lake county, and is one of those extraordinary- pro- 
ductions of a mining country — one of those places that from a lone 
cabin becomes, a village in a night, a town in a week, a city in a 
mouth, and a " booming " metropolis the first year, with number- 
less old prospectors, miners, capitalists, bullwhackers, stages, pil- 
grims, railroads, gamblers, thieves, and "soiled doves" directing 
their course to reach the neiu El Dorado with all possible despatch. 

Such was Leadville during the first year of its existence. Lead- 
ville was then one of the most cosmopolitan cities; there met and 
jostled people from every land and clime; the rich and the poor, 
the miser and the spendthrift, the scholar and the fool, the 
preacher and the bawd, the morose and the jolly, and the look of 
all seemed to say, " we are here for dollars, not for health.'' 1 



86 EAGLE RIVER BRANCH— D. & R. G. 

Following this state of things Leadville had its ups and downs, 
caused by mining sharks, but at this time there is no city better 
governed or more permanently prosperous. 

Commercially and in population Leadville ranks third in the 
state. The city has many fine brick business blocks, water works, 
stores and shops in great variety, eight smelting and reduction 
works, four foundries and machine shops, a score of hotels (chief 
of which are the Hotel Kitchen, Grand Pacific and Grand), 
together with churches, schools, secret orders, electric light, tele- 
phone, etc., and three daily and weekly papers, the Herald-Dem- 
ocrat, Leadville Chronicle and Carbonate Chronicle. Of mining 
companies! Well, really, there are hardly enough figures to 
enumerate them or the mines in the vicinity. The mining loca- 
tions near the city number 30,000, and the out-put of ore is about 
1,500 tons per day; but the production is from only about 50. 

The Leadville Trotting and Running Association has a half- 
mile track four miles west, with good buildings and is well fenced. 
The court house and post office buildings are flue structures, 
and would do credit to any city; then there are a great number of 
fine private residences. Of lumber yards there are ten, some of 
which do an immense business, each of which represents from one 
to three saw-mills in the county, besides buying largely in Chicago. 

The city is surrounded by a number of mining camps which are 
tributary for business, and add materially to its prosperity. 

The carbonate deposits about Leadville are enormous, extend- 
ing over a vast area, said to be 60 miles in length from north to 
south by 10 miles wide, yielding in silver and lead from $30 to 
si', I (Oil per ton. 

Leadville is situated on a gradual slope of the Mosquito range 
facing westward, and is six miles from the eastern base of the 
Sawache range, in which Mt. Massive is the central figure; alti- 
tude, 14,298 feet. At the base of this range are the pretty Ever- 
green lakes and several noted soda springs. 

California Gulch, of 1860-fame, comes down from the east- 
ern range of mountains on the south side of the city, along which 
are situated a number of smelting works and manufactories. 

This " gulch " was one of the most noted in Colorado in 1859- 
62, during which years the placers yielded nearly 85,000,000, after 
which they were abandoned. Since the discoveries of carbonates, 
the old camp near the head of the "diggings" was christened 
Leadville. Companies have recently been organized, these old 
claims re-located, and preparations are perfecting to work over the 
ground by hydraulic process, but the scarcity of water is a great 
drawback. 
Connections— By rail with the Denver &RioGrande and the Colorado Midland. 

Leaving Leadville, via the Ragle river branch of the D. & R. 
G., our train winds around the city to the westward, reaching 
Malta (in five miles), a small station on the Arkansas river, at the 
mouth of California gulch, where are located the repair shops of 
the railroad company. 

Turning north from Malta we follow up the Arkansas river 
amid grand scenery, passing a number of side-track stations and 
reaching the divide between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific 
in 16 miles, at 



TKXXKSSHR PASS — RED CUFF. 



Tennessee Pils* — Altitude, 10,418 feet — 323 feet higher than 
Leadville. Homestake peak is on the left, 13,073 feet altitude; 
and Chalk peak on the right, 12,600 feet — which together with a 
score of peaks of lesser height afford views of mountain scenery 
of the greatest variety. .Starting down Eagle river another 16 
miles brings us to 

Re<l Cliff— [Pop., Soo; elevation, 8,671 feet]. — The seat of Eagle 
county, a thrifty mining town, situated on a triangular piece of 
land, a miuature valley, at the junction of Turkey creek with the 
Eagle river, 011 the east side between towering cliffs. 

Mining is the only industry in this vicinity, and that is to be 
seen everywhere about in the valley and on the sides and tops of 
the mountains. 

Near the town rises Battle, Gainer and Iron mountains, covered 
with timber, and if reports are true, they are filled with gold, silver 
and other valuable minerals. 

The mines in the vicinity of Red Cliff are attracting much at- 
tention from mine operators, and the opinions of competent ex- 
perts are that Red Cliff w-ill soon be one of the principal mining 
towns of the state. The formation is the Weber-quartzite; the 
lower, middle and upper carboniferous strata are in sight in the 
deep canons of the streams. A well-defined contact between lime 
and porphyry has been traced for 13 miles, and prospectors have 
located claims at various points along the exposed line. One 
smelter has been erected and others are in embryo. Several min- 
eral lodes have been discovered on the Mt. of Holy Cross, sixteen 
miles southwest, which are said to be very rich, and Holy Cross 
City has been added to the list of mining towns in Colorado. Red 
Cliff is well supplied with stores of all kinds, has several saw-mills 
and hotels, chief of which are the Hotel Eagle and Mountain. It 
also has water works, schools, several church organizations, a 
cornet band and two weekly papers, the Comet and Times. 

The traveler in a few minutes' climb of the mountain back of 
Red Cliff can obtain an uuusually fine view of the famed Mt. 
of the Holy Cross. From here the adventurous tourist can make 
the journey to the mount if he be so inclined. No grander view 
can be conceived than that of this wonderful mountain which bears 
upon its bosom the sacred symbol of Christianity. See page S8. 



Connections — Mail hack: Over the mountains, southwest to Hor.v Cross 
City, 16 rniles, twice a week. 

Proceeding down the Eagle river, between towering cliffs, past 
a number of side-track stations, the valley gradually widens, and 
where the stock-raisers had held complete sway for many years, 
are now to be seen farms and fields of grain, vegetables, etc. Ha)-, 
oats and potatoes are the principal crops raised for market, but 
vegetables of many kinds are raised for home consumption. 

4*y |>*lim — Is about the only station along the line between 
Red Cliff and Glenwood of any note, and that only contains a 
grocer)- store and hotel, with a few farm houses in the vicinity; but as 
a rendezvous and outfitting point for hunters, the Texas house is 
famous, as well as the surrounding country for game, and the 
Eagle river for trout. 

Gypsum is situated in a beautiful little park at the junction of 
Gypsum creek and Eagle river, on the south side, 42 miles west 
from Red Cliff and 26 miles east from Glenwood springs. 



88 



MT. HOLY CROSS — GRAND RIVER. 




mount of holy cross. — See pages £5 and 87. 



Grand River — The same we interviewed on Side Tour No. 
1 at Grand lake — conies down from the right, seven miles west 
of Gypsum, uniting with the Eagle. The little town of Dotsero, 
is situated one and a half miles eastward on the Grand, above the 
junction of the two rivers. 

The graded track of the " Burlington " also comes down the 
Grand, and shows in places on the north side of the river all the 
way to Glenwood. 



GLENWOOD SPRINGS. 89 



Grand River Canon — Is one of the wonders of this line. 
After leaving the junction the mountain walls on each side of the 
river gradually increase in height until at the end of about LO 
miles the)- rise in places from the river's brink sheer 2,000 feet. 

In places the sun's rays are completely shut out by overhang- 
ing cliffs, through which our train passes in tunnels. Many of the 
lateral canons, which are sprung upon our vision with lightning 
rapidity, are deep and dismal gorges. In these gorges and on the 
mountains where a root will hold are pines and firs and creeping 
vines, and flowers in season, which, in connection with the other 
surroundings, afford views of scenery surpassing all description. 

GlCIlWOOfl Spring* — [Pop., 1,500; from Gypsum, 18 miles; Leadville, 
99 miles; Aspen, 41 miles; elevation, 5,200 feet]. — Is the seat of Garfield 
county, just below the canon of the Grand, situated in a little park 
at the junction of the Roaring Fork and the Grand rivers. 

It is a place of great promise, principally on account of the 
springs for which it has become noted. Some of the buildings are 
of stone and brick, but the greater number are of wood. Stores 
and shops of all kinds are here; also water works, electric light, 
telephone, etc., banks, churches, schools and hotels, chief of which 
are the Hotel Glenwood and St. James. The News, Chief and 
Echo are three daily papers published here. 

The land about the city is rather limited, but in places along 
the Grand and Roaring Fork are many thousand acres of good 
agricultural lands, some of which are under cultivation producing 
good crops of oats, potatoes and vegetables; grass in all the valleys, 
and along the streams is vigorous and abundant, producing a large 
amount of hay. Stock-raising is also an important occupation of 
the settlers in this region, but the chief attraction, and the one on 
which for its future growth the place must depend is its WONDER- 
FUL. springs. The springs are numerous on both sides of the 
Grand, and are of undoubted medicinal character. It is said all 
diseases of the blood, rheumatism and skin diseases are wonder- 
fully relieved and often cured. Some of these springs are very 
salt and too hot to bathe in. In one place where the waters run 
through a cave about 20 feet, a natural Turkish bath is afforded, 
where planks are laid to walk upon, and bathers can disport them- 
selves on the rocks. 

The hot, salt and sulphur springs are on the north side of the 
Grand river reached by a bridge, and are very numerous; some 
are close down beside the river, others are from 10 to 20 feet higher, 
with a great amount of crystallization all about them, the deposits 
of ages forming great basins from which the springs flow. Only 
a few rude baths are now here, but amply accommodations are 
making. The main structure will be 27o by 40 feet, and fitted 
up with porcelain tubs of the most approved kind; yet withal, 
the rheumatic, asthmatic, catarrhal and lung sufferers, without 
regard to age, sex, race, color or previous condition of servitude, 
do congregate here in large numbers. 

Coal — Both bituminous and anthracite, is abundant in the re- 
gion surrounding Glenwood, and is another great source of wealth. 



Connections— Rail: The Denver & Rio Grande, Eagle river branch, and the 
Colorado Midland, via Aspen; and it generally understood that both of these 
roads are extending their lines westward, but the exact route is still a problem. 
Stage coach west, down the Grand river to New Castle, 13 miles; Fergu- 
son, eight miles, six times a week. At Ferguson mail hacks connect for the 
north and west. 



ill) ASPEN — PITKIN MINES. 



Leaving Glenwood ovir course is now up the Roaring Fork — 
parallel with the Midland — southeast 13 miles to Carbondale, a 
small station at the point where Rock creek comes into the Fork 
from the south, where our train turns more to the left, and reaches 
Aspen in 41 miles from the Springs. 

Aspeil — [Pop., 7,500; from Leadville, 140 miles; elevation, 7,775 feetj. 
Is the seat of Pitkin county, situated on the northern slope of Aspen 
mountain, on the south side of Roaring Fork river near the junc- 
tion of Hunter, Castle and Maroon creeks. The old town of Roar- 
ing Fork is one mile distant on the opposite side of the river. 

The city contains two banks, a sampling and two smelting 
works, a number of stone and brick business blocks, stores of all 
kinds, several hotels (chief of which is the Clarendon), four news- 
papers — the Times, Democrat and Chronicle, daily, and the Sun, 
weekly; a theater, three saw-mills, electric light and telephone; 
good schools and churches, etc. 

Here are located some of the great mines of the state, and Aspeji 
is considered one of the most prosperous and rich of the mining 
towns in Colorado. The hills surrounding the town are filled with 
veins of silver. The ore from many of them runs to $1,800 per 
ton. There are also placer mines near the town that are rich, and 
are being worked with much profit. 

The developments of the Pitkin county mines up to this time 
have been of the most satisfactory character, showing that the rich 
ore-bodies are not confined to the group of mines which have 
made Aspen mountain famous in all mining circles. It is posi- 
tively asserted, and apparently thoroughly demonstrated, that a 
belt of country 15 miles in width, extending from the Mt. of Holy 
Cross, in Eagle county, southwest through Aspen to Ashcroft and 
Sandy's gulch, gives a great contact belt 30 miles in length of 
true fissure veins, besides the various rich mining districts of Cou- 
nuudrum, Sandy, Maroon, Lincoln and Castle creeks— enough 
mineral to sustain a wonderful out-put until the coming of the 
millennium. 

For years the great cry was tor a railroad. They have two now, 
the I). & R. G and Colorado Midland, and should be happy. 
Whether they are or not, they are shipping an immense amount 
of ore to the smelting works east, besides what can be smelted at 
home. Aspen is improving rapidly without "boom," and bids 
fair to make the most important camp in the state in population 
and wealth. 

In the vicinity of Aspen are quarries of beautiful red sandstone, 
which is largely used for building and flagging purposes. 

Along the river and creeks near and tributary, are some good 
ranches, where oats, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables are 
grown to perfection and find ready sale at prices that would aston- 
ish a New England farmer. 

Elk, deer, bear and many other kinds of furred and feathered 
game are abundant in the near mountains, and the trout snap at 
the bait in every little stream. 

Aspen is 28 miles due west from Leadville, "as the bird would 
fly," 40 miles by trail, and by rail (the way we camel, 140 miles. 

Bragging men only need to look into quiet, cool and determined eyes to get 
weak in the knees! They are cowards! 

Pig braggarts sometimes find their way into mining camps, but their stay is 
short! "Put up or shut up" is a requirement that must be met: 



CASTLE ROCK — PALMER LAKE. 91 



Side Toiir Xo. 4 — From Denver to Colorado Springs, 
Manitou and Pike's Peak. 

There are no less than three different railroad tracks from Den- 
ver to Colorado Springs: The Denver & Rio Grande; Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa Fe, and the Denver & Gulf. Besides these, the 
Colorado Midland uses the track of the Santa Fe, and the 
Missouri Pacific and the Rock Island those of the D. & R. G. 

As we believe in first love we shall take the D. & R. G. There 
axe Jive trains each way a day, so one can take their choice. 

Leaving Denver our route for the first 20 miles parallels the 
route taken on Side Tour No. 2, except that it is on the east side of 
the Platte. 

Passing the machine shops of the D. & R. G. in two miles, the 
second bottom lands of the Platte river are reached. Pike's peak is 
in view directly ahead, but 80 miles away. The Rocky mountains 
are to the west beyond that 15-mile belt of rolling prairie, and 
they will parallel our route the entire distance. To the east stretch 
the prairies, apparently limitless in extent. 

Eight miles, at Petersburg, is where gold was first mined 
along the Platte river — 1859; the gold was fine and difficult to save 
by the methods then in use, and the "diggings" were abandoned. 
Passing Littleton (two miles), an agricultural town of some pre- 
tentions, we cross the "high line" canal and commence to climb 
the bluffs which border Plum creek on the east, traversing a coun- 
try where stock-raising is the only industry. 

Ca§tle Rock — [ Pop., 250; from Denver, 32 miles]. — Seat of Doug- 
las county. Extensive stone quarries of volcanic rock are near the 
town, which supplied the greater portion of what was used for 
rough work on the Union depot and other buildings in Denver. 
Stock-raising is also an important feature at this place. The 
Owens is the principal hotel. The Journal is a weekly paper pub- 
lished here. 

Castle Rock derives its name from a huge castellated rock that 
is passed just before reaching the station, standing away up on the 
apex of a spur of the "divide" that here projects out into the val- 
ley from the eastward. 

Three miles from Castle Rock is the small station of Douglass, 
where there are more stone quarries; then three miles to Glade, 
five miles to Larkspur, four miles to Greenland and five miles 
more to 

PallllCr Ltlke — [Pop., 50: from Denver, 52 miles; Colorado Springs, 
23 miles; Pueblo, 68 miles; elevation, 7,23s feet]. — This station is on the 
summit of the divide between the waters of the Platte and Arkan- 
sas rivers, on the western bank of the lake from which it derives 
its name. In altitude the station is 2,144 feet higher than Denver 
and 2,525 feet higher than Pueblo. 

The lake was named for General Palmer, the early promoter 
and president of the Denver & Rio Grande railway, and is a 
beautiful little sheet of water. For near a score of years it has 
been visited in summer by picnic parties from Denver, but not 
until 1880 was there any organized movement made to furnish ac- 
commodations for travelers and make it a pleasure resort. Nature 
had done much in climate, pure water, lofty mountains, lovely 
nooks, beautiful glens, deep canons, tall pines and shady retreats. 



92 GLEN PARK — COLORADO SPRINGS. 

The railroad company have placed a substantial stone embankment 
along the shore of the lake, and in front of the station a neat and 
tasteful boat-house, stocked with boats. Streets have. recently 
been laid out near the station and planted on either side with 
shade trees, and an abundant supply of the purest water has been 
brought to the town from a mountain source in iron pipes, under 
a pressure that enables fountains to throw water to a height of 
over 80 feet. Beside these improvements the company furnish 
transportation by an even dozen passenger trains a day to reach 
this place. Then conies the Glen Park Association which secured 
Glen Park, a lovely place containing about 150 acres, within half 
mile of the station. The park is at the foot of the mountain range, 
and is sheltered in the rear by a towering cliff, 2,000 feet in height, 
and on the two sides by spurs of the range. With the association 
came their landscape engineer, who has taken advantage of every 
natural beauty, and studied the best topographical effect in laying 
out streets, parks, reservoirs, walks, drives, trails and lookouts. 
As a result many tasteful cottages have been erected, a hotel and 
an auditorium, with a seating capacity for 1,000 persons, and con- 
taining rooms for the association officers. The Glen house 
accommodates travelers in a first-class manner. 

Besides the trains of the Denver & Rio Grande, the Midland, 
Missouri Pacific, and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, each run four 
passenger trains a day, between Denver and Pueblo, via Palmer Lake. 

Possessing so many advantages Palmer Lake will doubtless 
soon become one of the most popular resorts of the kind in 
Colorado. 

The track of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe is on the east 
side of the lake. 

The country between Denver and Colorado Springs is occupied 
very generally by stock-raisers, yet there are a few persons farming. 
The lauds would all produce good crops with water for irrigation, 
but there is none, hence the cattle, sheep, etc. 

A few miles both to the north and south of Palmer Lake, high 
up the mountain side, can be seen long, rocky castellated ridges 
of white, brown and red stone, standing forth hundreds of feet in 
height, like huge sentinels continually on guard. 



Leaving the station, our train curves eastward around the lake, 
dodging a bold mountain spur, and rattles away down grade to 
Monument — [four miles; pop., 300]— Here are afew stores, several lum- 
bermen and a weekly newspaper, the Register. 

Between Monument and Colorado Springs — 19 miles — several 
unimportant stations are passed, and an occasional glimpse of 
Pike's peak can be had. Cattle and sheep are numerous, and a 
few fields and gardens appear. Occasionally on the right we catch 
a glimpse of some of those peculiar rocks which rise up in places 
in this vicinity on the sides of the hills to the height of from 20 
to 50 feet. They are round and from three to ten feet in diameter 
surmounted with a cap, in one place resembling a Spanish som- 
brero. They are called by various names, but by the general name 
of "monuments," from which this valley and creek derive their 
naines. 

Colorado SprilJlJ*- [Pop., 6,500; elevation, 3.992 feet; from Denver 
75 milts: Pueblo, 4.3 miles. Manitou, five and a half miles]. — Seat of LI Paso 
county. This city was laid out in July, 1871, and settled by the 



COLORADO SPRINGS AND ATTRACTIONS. 93 

Fountain colon}'. It is situated on a high broad plateau to the 
east of and about one-half a mile above the junction of Monument 
creek from the north, with the fountain Qui Bouille, from the west. 

The citizens have erected some fine buildings, which include a 
college, churches, banks, schools, hotels, opera house and many 
private residences. The streets are 100 feet broad and the avenues 
1-50 feet, with sidewalks 12 feet wide. Along the avenues rows of 
trees have been set out near the sidewalks and little streams of 
water are rippling along beside them, from the large canals built 
by the citizens for irrigating purposes. Colorado Springs, like 
Greeley, is a temperance town, so organized that parties purchas- 
ing lots forfeit their purchase if they sell liquor on the premises; 
and unless you can procure a physician's prescription, or know 
how to "stand in" with the druggists, not a drop of liquor can 
be obtained; but then the Manitou springs are only five miles 
away, and the waters are to be had at the hotels, where it is brought 
fresh every day, for the accommodation of the guests. The waters 
exhilarate, but do not intoxicate. There are several hotels; the 
Antler's, Alamo and Grand View are the principal ones. The 
newspapers are Gazette, daily and weekly, and Herald, weekly. 
The scenery viewed from Colorado Springs is exceedingly grand. 
To the west " Pike's peak " rises in - full view, from base to summit; 
altitude, 1-4,336 feet or 6,308 feet higher than the city. In the 
vicinity are some of the most delightful drives and rambles; Man- 
itou, five miles; Garden of the Gods, three and one-half miles; 
Cheyenne canon, five miles; summit of " Pike's peak," lomiles,etc. 

One finds here an out-door life agreeable and delightful through- 
out the year, there being few days when it is not pleasant to ride 
or drive. The livery service is excellent, and charges moderate, 
and since the natural roads are uniformly in order the scenic 
wonders of the region are viewed under the most agreeable circum- 
stances. 

This city has become of late one of the most attractive summer 

resorts in America. Here the tourist, invalid or pleasure -seeker 

finds an agreeable resting place, with every variety of interesting, 

instructive and charming scenery. The residents for the most 

part are cultm-ed people, drawn from all sections of the world. 

Most of the visitors at first express surprise to find a city the size 

of Colorado Springs in the heart of what they had expected to 

find the "wild west," that contained no saloons. Scenery and 

climate are not all the attractive features of a residence or sojourn 

in this city: the superior public and private schools are ample; the 

Colorado college offers a complete collegiate education, while in a 

gem of an opera house are often rendered the most popular operas 

and productions of the most celebrated authors known to music 

aud the drama. 

Connections— Besides the trains on the Denver & Rio Grande the Missouri 
Pacific. Midland, Denver, Texas & Fort Worth and Atchison, Topeka & Sante 
Fe. all run regular passenger trains daily. 



The Midland Railroad Co. in 18.S5 commenced the construction 
of their road westward from this place, via I T te pass and South 
Park, to— don't know, no " fella can find out; " but so vigorously 
was the work pushed that their trains were running to Leadville 
in 1887, into Aspen in 1888, and perhaps Portland, Oregon, next 
year. Quien Sabe? 



94 



MANITOU SPRINGS. 



It is generally understood that the Midland is an Atchison, 
Topeka & Sante Fe branch — however that may be, the Midland 
reaches Denver via the Atchison track. 

Colorado Cily — [Pop., 2,000]. — Is two miles west of Colorado 

Springs, and can be reached by either the Manitou branch of the 
1). oc R. G. system or by the cars of the Midland railroad. 

Here was the first settlement in the "Pike's peak country" in 
1858, and here the first capital of the territory was located. The 
town is situated on a high plateau, directly facing Pike's peak, on 
the north bank of fountain Qui Bouille creek. The car and 
machine shops of the Midland railway are located here, also flour 
and plaster mills. Valuable stone quarries are near, and large 
deposits of the finest hydraulic cement in the state. Where irri- 
gated, grain, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables grow to perfec- 
tion. Some fine fruit is also raised. Electric lights, telephone, 
etc., are here, also a weekly paper, the News. 



MailitOU — where are located the celebrated springs of that 
name, is in El Paso county, five miles due west of Colorado 
Springs. It is situated on Fountain Qui Bouille creek, at the very 
foot of Pike's peak, in as romantic a little nook of the mountains 
as one could imagine. 

This .Saratoga of Colorado possesses springs more renowned 
for their medicinal qualities than those of the Saratoga of New- 
York, while for climate and scenery, Colorado can discount New- 
York in the ratio that the sun would a "tallow dip." 

These springs are six in number, named Manitou Navajo, Ute- 
Soda, Shoshone, Iron Ute and Little Chief. Prof. Loew, of Lieut. 
Wheeler's exploring expedition, gives the analysis of the different 
springs as follows: 

THK MINERAL SPRINGS AT MANITOU. 
In 100 000 parts of spring water are contained — 



Carb. of soda 

of lithia 

of lime 

" of magnesia. 

" of iron 

Sulph. of potassa ... 

of soda 

Chlo. of sodium 

Silica 



124.69 

0.24 

129.49 

31.66 



16.21 
18.42 
39 78 

1-47 



Total solid constituents. 

Gases 

Degree of Fahr 



50.2 



5626 

0.25 

1 1 1. 00 

20.51 
trace. 

13 -AS 

19.71 

4o-95 

2.01 



23.82 
trace. 

40.00 
6.10 
1.40 
trace. 
12.24 
13 93 
trace. 



88.80 

trace 

10S.50 


59-34 

trace. 

59-04 

10.50 

508 

7 01 

30.86 

3'-59 

2.69 




512 

37.08 

42.12 

trace. 



15.16 

trace. 

75-20 
13.01 
1 30 
6 24 
51.88 
47-97 



260.00 97-49 jS ' r ' J 
Free carbonic acid 
56 1 (8.5 



210.87 21 3-4 S 



(4-3 \Z 



The waters of these springs, the pure air and life-giving climate, 
the wonderful Alpine canon, valley and plains scenery, the hunt- 
ing attractions, the gathering of petrifications and fossils, together 
with the delightful rambles and refined society among the citizens 
and at the hotels, have made "Manitou, Colorado," known 
throughout the length and breadth of our whole country, and we 
might say the rcorld for that matter, as, by a glance at the hotel 



MANITOU — PIKE'S PEAK. 95 



registers in the tourist season names will be found indicating visi- 
tors from almost every nation, land and clime, so widely and. fav- 
orably has this place become known. 

The scenery surrounding Manitou is immense and very beau- 
tiful. Some of the most interesting objects of interest, with their 
distances from Manitou, are: Garden of the Gods, three and one- 
half miles; Glen Eyrie, Queen's Canon, Devil's Punch-bowl, five 
and one-half miles; Cheyenne Canon and Seven Falls, ten miles; 
summit of Pike's peak, nearest trail, ten miles; Petrified Trees, 15 
miles; Monument Park, with Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding, 
Vulcan's Workshop and Dunce's Parliament, ten miles; Ruxton's 
Glen, Iron Springs and Ute pass, one and one-half miles. 

It is not generally known, but Manitou as a winter resort, has 
many claims worthy of special consideration particularly by inva- 
lids. It is sheltered from the cold northwest winds, which are 
the prevailing winds of Colorado, and being thus sheltered in a 
cosv glen is far more pleasant and comfortable than any of the 
towns and cities located on the open plains, where they are fair to 
the wind. The gravelly soil of Manitou is an insurance against 
alkali or disagreeable dust to irritate the throat and lungs; its 
admirable sewerage system, the pure still atmosphere, the bright 
warm sunshine, the finest mineral waters, the long enchanting 
twilights, the quiet seclusion (although within call and having 
speaking facilities with the whole outside world), and the equable 
climate, are advantages that when known will certainly tend to 
keep the hotels and cottages as full in winter as in summer. 

From the little log cabin of 1800, where the writer was wont to 
mix a little cream tartar with the water of the Navajo spring for 
rising his bread and "slapjacks," Manitou has grown to be a city, 
varying between winter and summer of from 500 to 2,000 popula- 
tion. Along the main street are stores and fancy shops of all kinds, 
and livery stables where the finest turnouts can be had to visit the 
attractions in the vicinity. The pure waters of Fountain creek 
ripple through the place, along the banks of which are many trees 
— cottonwood, pine, cedar and willow. Cosy little cottages peep 
out here and there from among the trees, rocks and gulches as 
though afraid their secluded retreat would be discovered. An ele- 
gant bath-house, recently erected, is a new attraction and consists 
of 18 bath-rooms provided with porcelain-lined tubs, used only 
for soda baths, and a plunge 32 feet square and four and one-half 
feet deep. The building is roomy and well fitted and furnished 
for the comfort and convenience of visitors. Many new buildings 
have been added to the town, several hotels erected and others 
enlarged, and yet, often the demand for accommodations exceeds 
the supply. There are now six large hotels, the Barker, Manitou, 
Mansion, Cliff, Sunny-Side and Iron Springs, besides several small 
hotels and cottages and boarding houses in scores. The Cliff is 
open winter and summer. 

Pike's Peak — Until recently has been reached only by pack 
animals over a tortuous trail, but during 1888 a wagon road was 
constructed which winds around the mountain on a zigzag but 
uniform grade. The company constructing the road ran carriages 
over it — when ordered by visitors desiring to make the ascent — 

With some a pass-ing acquaintance with a railroad man is an annual feast. 



96 side; tour no. 5 — boulder. 



charges, $5 for round trip. Parties desiring can hire saddle ani- 
mals or carriages and drive themselves, to make the ascent, for 
which a moderate toll is charged. 

We shall not attempt to describe the views from the summit of 
the peak, as it is impossible to convey to the mind of the reader 
more than a faint idea of the extent and beauty of the scene. 

The ride up the mountain is a delight; the grand spread of 
plains, valleys and mountains affords views second only to those 
obtained after reaching the summit of the Peak. 



Game and Fish — Are not as abundant as formerly, but by go- 
ing from five to ten miles away, game as is game can be found. 
For fine trout take a run up over the Ute pass road, onto the South 
Park slope, and you will find every little stream is alive with them. 

Manitou can be reached by rail, by the trains on the Manitou 
branch of the Denver & Rio Grande — or the Midland railroad. 



4»nrdeii of the Ciods — Situated midway between Manitou 
and Colorado Springs. It is a singularly wild and beautiful place, 
to which some poetic individual has given the title which heads 
this paragraph. Two high ridges of rock rise perpendicularly 
from the valley to a height of 330 feet, but a few yards apart, 
forming a lofty enclosure, which embraces a beautiful miniature 
valley, which seems to nestle here away from the gaze of the 
passer-by in a quiet, romantic grandeur. 

Returning to Denver we shall make one more tour and then 
take up the main line across the continent, via Cheyenne, Lar- 
amie, and Evanston. 



Side Tour .\o. 5 — From Denver to Boulder, Boulder 
Canon, Longmont, Estes Park and Fort Collins to Greeley. 

Each of the four cities above named are reached by two separate 
branches of the Union Pacific railway. Leaving Denver at 7:55 a. m., 
via the Marshall & Boulder (narrow gauge ). We take the route 
described in Side Tour No. 1 to Argo Junction, three miles from 
Denver, thence running north, crossing Clear creek and a broad 
ex pause of rolling prairie land well settled and cultivated, reach 
Boulder at 9:22 a. m. 

Boulder— [Pop., 4,500; from Denver, 30 miles, via Argo Junction, and 
47 miles, via Brighton; elevation, 5,335 Ret]. -The Seat of Boulder COUIlty, 

situated at the entrance to the mountains, via Boulder canon, on 
Boulder river. 

Gold and silver mines in the mountains, great coal mines just 
south of the city, iron deposits, stone and lime quarries, agri- 
culture, horticulture aud stock-raising are the chief occupations 
of the citizens. Merchandising and all the usual occupations 
of an enterprising city thrive here, as well as the churches and 
schools. 

Three ore-sampling works, one smelting furnace, one iron fur- 
nace, two flouring-mills, one foundry and machine shop, and a 
score of smaller manufactories are located here. The American 
and the Brainard are the principal hotels. The newspapers are 
Herald, daily and weekly; the News and Banner, weekly, and 
the Sentinel, weekly. 




Connections— Mail hack: Southeast to Langford, six miles six times a 
we^ to the north to Altone, situated on Left Hand creek ten rmles, axtima 
Tweek to the northwest to Sunshine, seven miles, six times a week, west 
toNEDFRUNDiS miles, six times a week; southwest to Magnolia nine 
mnes three times a week. The sunset branch (narrow gauge) of the Union 
Pacific svstem™un^ Boulder river into the mountains, to Sunset, 13 miles, 
mSine // 1 route Orodel, three miles; Crisman, 111. three more; Gold Hill 
LiX? mile and Sugar Loaf in another, from which it is four miles to the 
end of the track at Sunset. 

7 , - 



98 UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO. 

The Sunset branch runs through a section devoted exclusively 
to mining and lumbering, and affords scenic views well worth a 
visit by the tourist. 

Boulder Canon — Has some magnificent scenery, besides be- 
ing the outlet to the valley for some of the richest mines in the 
state. In the drainage of this canon are located the Gold Hill, 
Sugar Loaf, Caribou, Pennsylvania, Snowy Range, Gold Lake, 
Ward, Central and other rich mining districts, containing numer- 
ous stamp-mills and reduction works, which yield a wealth of 
precious metals daily. The scenery of this canon is noticeably 
wild and romantic, even in a country where nature has been so 
productive of surprising natural wonders. On either side rise the 
lofty walls, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in height, their sides covered 
with verdure, save in spots where the rocks stand forth in naked 
boldness. Through the canon rushes a noisy and turbulent 
stream, serving to enhance the attractions and break the solitude. 
Through its whole extent, a distance of 15 miles, the points of 
interest vie with each other in attracting the attention of the 
beholder. 

Three miles up the canon, and nearly encircled by it, rises the 
"Dome," a solitary and majestic mass of granite, 500 feet in height. 
Eight miles up is " Eagle Rock;" 10 miles, the " Falls," on the 
North fork, near its junction with Middle Boulder, whence they 
are reached by trail along the mountain side, a few hundred 3-ards 
distant. 

As the principal eafion views are not on the line of the railroad, 
it will be necessary for visitors to secure a carriage and driver at 
Boulder. Livery teams can be had to make a trip to the " Falls," 
ten miles and back, for $5, passing the most attractive feature of 
the canon. 

The University of Colorado — a noble institution, has a 
beautiful site upon the high grounds on the south side of Boulder 
river overlooking the city. The design of this school is to pre- 
pare teachers for the work of conducting the schools of the state, 
especially in the branches taught in the common schools. It is 
claimed that the climate at Boulder is all that could be desired — 
neither excessively warm in summer nor too cold in winter, and 
seems particularly favorable to the rapid development of the intel- 
lectual faculties. 

The Colorado Central — Branch of the Union Pacfic reaches 
Boulder via Arvada and Golden, winding around the Table 
mountains and foot-hills; distance, 3b' miles. 



The Boulder Valley — Another branch of the Union Pacific 
reaches Boulder via Brighton (on the main line 18 miles north 
from Denver), Erie and Canfield; distance, 46 miles. 

Leaving Boulder our route turns to the northeast over the broad 
prairies. 

IjOllJi'lllOIll — [Top., 2,000; from BouMer, ten miles; Denver, 57 miles; 
elevation, 4,935 feet].— One of the most important towns in Boulder 
county, is situated on the high prairie, sloping to the southward, 
about half a mile north of the St. Vrain river, the waters of which 
are taken out seven miles west of the town and conducted in 
ditches over the high lands on each side of the river, producing 
large crons of wheat, barley, oats, corn and other cereals. Wheat 



ESTES PARK — EONG'S PEAK. 99 

ill large quantities is shipped from here, besides what is ground in 
three mills near. Wheat often yields 30 bushels to the acre; oats, 50 
bushels. 

Brick • is largely used in building, and many of the private resi- 
dences and some business blocks are models in size and finish. 
The Post and the Ledger are weekly papers, and Zweck and the 
Occidental are the two leading hotels. 

The streets of Longmont are broad, laid out at right angles and 
ornamented with shade trees of various kinds, and well irrigated, 
as are most of the gardens and residence grounds. 



Connections— By rail: Denver, Utah & Pacific, "Burlington" system; 
from Denver, 33 miles; to Lyons, northwest, 11 miles. 



Turning north from Longmont, 11 miles, is Berthoud, a little 
station on Little Thompson creek, from which it is six miles to 

LoVClclIld — [Pop., 650; from Denver, 74 miles; elevation, 4,974]. 
Is situated on Big Thompson river. 



Connections — By rail: Buckhorn branch, northwest to Arkins, seven 
and a half miles; also, mail hack, west to Pinewood, 19 miles; Estes Park, 
13 miles; thence to Moraine, five miles. Total to Estes Park, 32 miles, six 
times a week in summer and three times in winter. 



Since leaving Bo alder, we have passed over a succession of roll- 
ing prairie ridges, small mountain streams and irrigating canals, 
through a rich farming country where the principal industries are 
agriculture, horticulture and stock-raising. Most of these ridges 
or divides are sufficiently low to enable the ranchmen to conduct 
the water from near the mountains in canals all over the laud, and 
as the soil is naturally rich, the result is bounteous crops. 

Estes Park — [Elevation, 6,Sio feet].— Is one of the most delight- 
ful summer resorts in Colorado, but the stage ride from Loveland, 
82 miles, deters many from visiting it. The park or valley is ten 
miles north of Long's peak, about six miles long by four and a 
half miles wide, hemmed in on all sides by towering mountains. 
The tall spruce and pine trees in the park grow sufficiently near 
each other to afford a beautiful and cooling shade in the hottest 
days of the summer. This is one of those places seldom found in 
the mountains, where all the greatest attractions can be reached 
and enjoyed within easy reach from good hotel accommodations. 

The hunting and trout fishing are par excellence. As for scen- 
ery ! there is no adequate language to describe it. From the summit 
of Long's Peak [altitude 14,270] the extent of vision would cover 
over 400 square miles, taking in every prominent peak in the San 
Juan, Sangre de Cristo, Sawache, Wind river, Uintah, and Rocky 
mountain ranges; but the ascent is difficult at best and sometimes 
dangerous, and should not be attempted except with ample outfit 
and an experienced guide. 

From points within easy reach of the hotel, views can be had 
of the plains and valleys to the eastward, including scores of 
cities, towns and villages, bounded only by the horizon. 



Foi't CollillS — [Pop., 2,000: from Denver, SS miles; elevation, 4,972 feet]. 
Is the seat of Larimer county, situated in the valley of the 
Cache-a-la Poudre, in the midst of great wealth in agriculture, 
horticulture, stock-raising, flagging stone, water-power, mills and 
manufactories. 



100 BIRDS SING GOOD-BYE TO COLORADO. 

The county buildings, business blocks, opera house, banks, 
churches and school buildings and many private residences do 
credit to the taste and enterprise of the citizens. The State Agri- 
cultural College is located here. 

The Tedmond and Commercial are the principal hotels. The 
newspapers are the Cornier, daily and weekly, and the Express, 
weekly. 

Here and on this tour can be seen the effect of irrigation; with- 
out water no crops can be raised. 

An extensive system of irrigating canals and ditches conducts 
the water from the river over all the lands in the neighborhood and 
the most bountiful crops are raised therefrom. In summer picnic 
parties enjoy the cooling groves of cottonwoods along the river 
banks, and hunters and fishermen are afforded rare sport with the 
abundance and variety of game to be found in the mountains and 
streams within a day's "round-up." 

Since leaving Boulder our route has skirted the mountains 
affording scenic views of rare beauty, but here at Collins the view 
of the mountains and Long's peak, directly west, is very grand. 
What the city of Naples is to Mt. Vesuvius, Fort Collins is to 
Long's peak. 

Connections — Bv rail: The Fort Collins and Stout branch west to La- 
Porte, situated on tii§Cache-a-la Poudre river at the base of the mountains, 
three miles ; south to Stout, u miles, where are located extensive quarries of 
stone, large quantities of which are shipped to Denver and to the east— Missouri 
river cities. Also, mail hack northwest to La Porte, four miles; Livermore, 
i6}4 miles; thence southwest to Adams, eight miles; thence west, to Elk- 
horn, seven miles, and Manhattan, nine miles, six times a week; Fort Col- 
lins can be reached via Greeley on a branch of the Union Pacific. 



From Fort Collins, our road follows down the beautiful valley 
of the Cache-a-la Poudre, on the south side, through one of the 
most productive portions of the state to the town of Greeley, a 
beautiful place, situated on the Denver Pacific branch of the 
Union Pacific railway, between Denver and Cheyenne — of which 
more hereafter. 



figg" Passengers for Salt Lake City and beyond taking the Den- 
ver & Rio Grande railway via the Royal Gorge, Marshall Pass, 
Black Canon and Castle Gate should buy CrofuTT's Overland 
Tours No. 2. It covers the complete route represented by the Red 
line on this map. 



GOOD-BYE, COLORADO 



V; U1 ? 




AGAIN ON MAIN TOUR, 101 

OVERLAID 

FROM 

DEMER TO €HEYEME, SALT LAKE CITY 

AND ALL OVER 

THE LAXD OF ZIO!V. 



At this writing there are two regular passenger trains leaving 
the Union depot by this route daily, and as a change of time fre- 
quently occurs, we shall not attempt to give the precise time of 
starting, but "time table folders" can be had at the ticket offices, 
and principal hotels. 

Pullman sleepers are run on all regular passenger trains — usu- 
ally those that come over the Kansas Pacific branch. 

" AH Aboard ! " — Our course is northeast, along the eastern 
bank of the Platte river gradually climbing to the prairie; a stop 
is made three miles out at the crossing of the track of the Denver 
& Eastern railroad, and again five miles at Sand Creek, the cross- 
ing of the "Burlington". 

SSri^hloil — A thrifty little hamlet, is reached in 19 miles from 
Denver. Here a branch of the IT. P. system turns to the left, 
crosses the Platte river and runs via the Erie coal mines to Boul- 
der, Longmont and Port Collins. [Trains are made up and run 
from Denver.] 

While rolling along down the Platte river on its eastern bank, 
it ma)' be well to keep one eye on those mysterious western moun- 
tains, as rapid changes often occur; storm clouds will appear sud- 
denly from behind some peak, as though by magic, and while the 
sun shines brightly in the valley, a grand view of a "storm in the 
Rockies", can be enjoyed with all the accompaniments — at a safe 
distance — maybe from 100 miles away. The other eye can note the 
effect of irrigation upon this gravelly, soilless laud. Water works 
miracles here. 

Without water for irrigation, these lands that now grow three 
crops of alfalfa a year, or ten tons to the acre, worth in Denver 
market slO per ton, would not afford sufficient nutriment to sus- 
tain one healthy goat. 

Passing several small stations of little note, LupTon, the site of 
an old adobe fort of "ye olden times, "and PlattevillE, our 
train stops for a drink at 

Ea Salle — The junction of the Omaha & Denver Short 
Dine branch, where we have been before — page 35. 

Leaving La Salle, our train turns to the left, crosses the South 
Platte river for the last time and stops at 

Evans— [Pop., 400; from Denver, 48 miles]. — This place was settled 
in 1871 by the St. Louis and New England colonists, who "by 
building canals and ditches from the Big Thompson river and con- 
ducting the water over their several thousand acres of upland, are 



102 GREELEY — IRRIGATION. 



raising good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables. Two 
miles to the north are located the fair grounds of the Weld County 
Agricultural Society, where annually are displayed the productions 
of Weld and Larimer counties. 

Three miles from Evans we reach the town of 

(JrCClCJ" — [Pop., 2,500; from Denver, 52 miles; elevation, 4,637 feet]. 
Seat of Weld county. Was laid out in May, 1870, by the Greeley 
colony, under the fostering care of the late Hon. Horace Greeley 
of the New York Tribune. The colony controls about 1(10,000 
acres of as fine land as can be found in the state. Extensive 
canals and irrigating ditches have been built, and water from the 
Cache-a-la-Poudre furnishes an ample supply for all purposes. 
The town is situated on the Cache-a-la Poudre river, four miles 
above its junction with the Platte. When the colonists first set- 
tled at this place it was treeless, except on the river bottoms. The 
colonists laid out the town with broad streets, planted young Cot- 
tonwood trees on each side and led the water along near their 
roots. The cottonwood is a thrifty tree and the result has been 
Greeley is embowered in a forest of shade trees — in summer giving 
a cool and beautiful appearance. One noted feature of the 
town is the absence of all intoxicating drinks — none are allowed to 
be sold. The chief penalty for selling is a forfeiture to the city of 
the lot upon which it is sold. The public buildings at Greeley and 
the churches and educational advantages of the town are of the 
best. Stores and shops, banks, mills, elevators, fine business 
blocks and private residences, opera house, artesian wells, electric 
light, telephone, hotels, newspapers and all the modern improve- 
ments and airs of a progressive and independent people are here. 

The principal hotels are the Oasis and Exchange. There are 
three weekly newspapers, the Tribune, Sun and Howitzer. Gree- 
ley also has a Board of Trade, consisting of 125 members. 

Those who feel an interest in irrigation have a fine opportunity 
to note the methods in use here, and from Denver to this place, 
and for about 15 miles further on our journey. The results accom- 
plished by the use of water on the desert uplands of Colorado are 
marvelous, particularly if one will contrast the irrigated section 
above indicated with the appearance of the country beyond and 
above the canal lines commencing about 15 miles north from this 
place and extending the balance of the distance to Cheyenne — the 
soil is equal, but the water is wanting; with water the land is worth 
$80 per acre, without water not a ? 

Connections — Rail: Fort Collins branch (see Side Totjr No. 5). Mail hack, 
southwest to Hillsborough, 14 miles, twice a week. 



Proceeding north from Greeley and after crossing the Cache-a- 
la Poudre we climb the prairie seven miles to Eaton, in the midst 
of fine fields, where wheat, oats, potatoes and alfalfa are the prin- 
cipal crops. This is the home of Ex-Governor Eaton, of Colorado, 
whose enterprise and fostering care is evidenced by a flouring-mill, 
grain elevator and costly improvements. 

Leaving Eaton the higher prairie is soon reached, and for the 
whole distance to Cheyenne, 47 miles, there are only section houses 
and side-tracks of little interest. 

After crossing the line of the last irrigating canal north of Ea- 
ton, the country is given over exclusively to the stock interests — 
sheep principally. Here, too, can be seen at times an occasional 



CHEYENNE — FORT RUSSEEE. 103 

baud of antelope and wolves, and many prairie dogs. The divid- 
ing line between Colorado and Wyoming is crossed on the summit 
of the ridge, nine miles south from Cheyenne— I Cont'd from p. j; ) 



CIlOyOHHO — [Pop., 9,000; elevation, 6,050; distance from Omaha, 516 
miles: Denver, 106 miles; Ogden, 516 miles]. — Is the capital of Wyoming 
and the seat of Laramie county. It is situated on a broad plain, 
with Crow creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the 
town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is 
apparently level, though our elevations show to the contrary. The 
soil is composed of a gravelly formation with an average loam 
deposit. The subsoil shows volcanic matter mixed with marine 
fossils in large quantities, and where water can be had for irriga- 
tion, will produce all kinds of root crops to perfection. Except 
gardens and "truck patches" along the bottoms of Crow creek, no 
land is cultivated in the vicinity of Cheyenne, stock-raising being 
the chief occupation of the people living here. 

The Capitol building of the territory is now being erected. 
The Union Pacific Railway Co. have just completed here a 
fine stone depot, and the "Burlington" has a very commodious 
building. The county court house is another fine building, as are 
many business blocks. 

A Board of Trade has done much for Cheyenne. An opera 
house, a great variety of stores, churches, schools, horse railways, 
electric light, etc., free public library, extensive railroad shops, 
beautiful public park, fine water works, sound banks, a race 
course, and fast "steppers," together with fat babies, beautiful 
ladies and a good bauk account are the boastful claims made for 
Cheyenne by her citizens. Yes! and we believe they iuclude the 
climate — possibly the gentle zephyrs. The principal hotels are 
the Inter-Ocean and Metropolitan. The newspapers are the Sun 
and the Leader, daily and weekly, and Tribune, daily; Live- 
stock Journal, weekly, and the Mirror, weekly. 

Great Centrae Works— We understand the question of 
building a great central machine and car building shops, which has 
been under consideration for several years by the Union Pacific Rail- 
road Co., has finally been decided upon, and Chevenne selected 
as the point where the great works are to be located. It is esti- 
mated that the works when completed will cost nearly $5,000,000, 
and will enable the company to build everything in the line of 
road equipments that they will need. 

Fort I>. A. Russell — Was established July 31, 1867, by 
Gen. Auger, and intended to accommodate 16 companies. It is 
three miles from Cheyenne on Crow creek, which washes two 
sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. OS min.; longitude 105 
deg. 45 min. It is connected by side-track with the railroads at 
Cheyenne. The quartermaster's department — 12 store-houses — is 
located between the fort and the town, at "Camp Carlin." 
Several million pounds of government stores are gathered here, 
from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The 
reservation on which the fort is situated was declared by the 
President June 28, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. 

The fort is in command of Col. H. R. Mizner, and is the head- 
quarters of the 17th Infautrv, aud garrisoned by companies A, B. 
C, D, E, F, G, I and K. 



104 TOWARDS NORTHERN WYOMING. 



FROM CHEYENNE, WYOMING. 



Side Tour No. 6 — From Cheyenne north, oyer the 
Cheyenne & Northern branch of the Union Pacific system. 

For lo! these many years the citizens of Cheyenne have been 
wont to range their bands of horses and herds of cattle in the 
country to the northward, for hundred of miles. During these 
years they have been hungering and thirsting for railroad com- 
munications, and have had a standing (donation) offer of county 
bonds to any company who would build the road. 

They found a customer and the construction commenced in 
1884, and is now completed and running to WENDOVER, on the 
North Platte river, 12:! miles north from Cheyenne. 

Until a commencement of the road was made the whole coun- 
try along the line and tributary was occupied exclusively by stock- 
raisers. With the railroad-grader came the settler with his farm 
implements and irrigating canals. There are quite a number of 
pretty little valleys, as well as a very large proportion of table land, 
that is well adapted for agricultural purposes. At this date, the 
title of nine-tenths of all the lands is in the government and can 
be taken up under the general land laws. 

From Cheyenne there is only one regular train a day, leaving 
at 7:00 a. m., and this train is a ".mixed" train. It carries pas- 
sengers, mails and express, up and down; and merchandise, freight 
and freight cars up; and is liable to pick up cars of stone, cattle, 
horses, sheep, hay and iron ore on the return trip. 

"All Aboard!" — The general direction of the road is due 
north, but our track turns west and then northwest from the depot, 
and follows up Crow creek. 

Camp Carein — The government Q. M. depot is passed on the 
right in two miles, and one and a half miles further Fort Rus- 
SEEE, also on the right. 

Along Crow creek are a few settlers raising "garden truck;" 
large fenced grazing enclosures appear, also the Black Hill range 
of mountains ten miles away on the left. 

IsItlV — [From Cheyenne, 25 miles; elevation, 6,696 feet]. — Is the first 
regular station. It is situated on Lodge Pole creek, on the old 
Cheyenne Pass wagon road over the Black hills. A side-track, 
cattle corral, stock chutes and a few settlers near, comprise the 
station. 

The country to this point has been a rolling prairie, but for the 
next 50 miles is very broken but well grassed, with numerous 
springs and small streams which, with the shelter afforded for stock 
in case of storms, make it a paradise for the stock-raisers. 

Horse Creek — Station — [From islay, eight miles]. — Is situa- 
ted on Horse creek, one of the best trout streams in the country. 
Here are several stone buildings and monuments of stone, also cor- 
rals and chute for loading stock. 



Judge Milton Kelly, editor of the Statesman, ofBoise City, is one of the oldest 
pioneers in Idaho territory. A fine gentleman and an encyclopedia of general 
western information. 



NO. 3. 





**' At 0* 




SHOSHONG FALLS SNAKE RIYGR. 



Skk Page 1901 




LRTEOURELL FULLS. 



See Page 228. 



IRON MOUNTAIN — FORT LARAMIE. 105 

Leaving the station, meadows appear and fenced ranges, after 
which the route is very rugged and tortuous as we climb up to 

Alt UK — [From Horse Creek, six miles; elevation, 6,710 feet]. — Situated on 
the divide separating the waters of Bear creek and the Chugwater. 

Rolling down the Chug, seven miles, brings our train to 

Iron Mountain — Station — Near the noted Iron mountain, 
which is said to be almost pure metal and enough to supply the 
markets of the world for countless ages. It is reported to be owned 
by the railroad company, but there is no mining being done here 
at present. 

One and a half miles further on the left, are extensive quarries 
of stone; a rail track is laid to them to facilitate shipments which 
are made almost every day. 

The country is very broken but well grassed, and we might say, 
well stocked with cattle and horses. 



Passing KEUA' in 15 miles, a side-track station, with cattle chute, 
ranch and hay meadows, the bottom lands are all fenced, except- 
ing an occasional gap left to allow the range stock a passageway 
to the water. Some of the iuclosures are very large, taking in ex- 
tensive meadows where the stock-men gather a large amount of hay. 

Cllllg'IValCr — Station — [From Iron Mountain, 26 miles; Cheyenne, 71 
miles; elevation, 5,278 feet]. — Is situated in the valley of the Chug, 
which is here about one mile in width, and is the headquarters and 
"home ranch" of the Swan Cattle Co., who own nearly all 
the land in the vicinity. 

Their buildings which are to be seen to the right a few hun- 
dred yards away, are very large and fitted up in the most conve- 
nient maimer. The company is said to own about 40,000 head of 
cattle, besides a large band of horses. 



Continuing down the valley a few miles CHIMNEY PEAK, a lone 
rock to the right, pecks up heavenward 190 feet. 

Bordeaux — [From Chugwater, 14 miles; Fort Laramie, 26 miles; ele- 
vation, 4,855 feet]. — Is situated on Chugwater creek in a widening of 
the valley, where are located a number of ranch farmers, sur- 
rounded with ha}' meadows and cultivated fields. 

At certain seasons this is a busy place, being a central shipping 

point for cattle. 

Connections — Mail hack: Northeast to Fort Laramie, 26 miles; Rawhide 
Butte, 20 miles; Lusk, 16 miles, six times a week; fare about 15 cents a mile. 



Fort Laramie — This fort was established August 12th, 1859, 
by Maj. W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a 
trading post of the Northwestern Fur Co., was purchased by 
the government for a site for a military post. It was one time the 
winter quarters of many trappers and hunters. It is also noted as 
being the place where several treaties have been made between the 
savages and whites. The reservation, declared by the President 
on the 28th day of June, 1859, consists of 54 square miles. It is 
situated 110 miles northeast from Cheyenne, on the left bank of 
the Laramie about two miles from its junction with the North 
Platte, and on the old overland wagon road to Oregon and Califor- 
nia. Latitude, 42deg. 12 min. 3Ssec. ; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 2f> 
sec. It is now the headquarters of and garrisoned by B, C, D, K and 
F companies of the 7th Infantry, Col. H. C. Merriam, commander. 



10<> WHEATLAND — WENDOVER. 

Leaving Bordeaux our road gradually leaves the valley of the 
Chugwater to the right, and climbs up on to a high table land 
many miles in extent. Here we find the most extensive system of 
irrigating canals in the territory. They are owned by the Wyom- 
ing Improvement Co., and cost nearly $300,000. The water is 
taken out of Laramie river and the Sibylle in sufficient volume to 
irrigate about 78,000 acres of land. Only a small portion of the 
land is occupied. Here now is one of the best, if not the best, 
opportunity in the western country for those who are seeking a 
location for farming purposes. 

The elevation of the table is 4,737 feet, just 433 feet lower than 
the city of Denver, and 100 feet higher than Greeley. 

Wlieatlaild— [Kroin Bordeaux, n miles; elevation, 4,737 feet|. — Is a 
small station, situated in the center of the broad table land above 
described. 

To the northwest from this station 40 miles can be seen Laramie 
peak, a little to the west Rees' peak and Squaw mountains. 

From Wheatland we speed away over the plain on a gradual 
descending grade for six miles to Laramie river, cross over and 
stop at 

Uva — [Pop., 150; from Wheatland, seven miles; elevation, 4,461 feet]. 

The most important place on the road. It is situated on the north 

bank of the Laramie river and contains two stores, a hotel, several 

saloons, stock yards and a number of private residences. The 

river bottom is about half a mile in width, along which are groves 

of cottonwood trees. 

Connections — Mail hack: Northwest to Hubert, 12 miles; Labonte 35 
miles; DOUGLASS, 16 miles. . Total, 63 miles, once a week. 



One mile north of Uva we leave the Laramie river and turn to 
the right, up and across the country, passing Buckhorn, a lonely 
side-track on the prairie, in nine miles, then drop down on to 
Cottonwood creek, cross it and a few miles further (ten miles 
from Buckhorn ) cross the North Platte river, and are at the end 
of the track at 

"Wcmlovcr — [Pop., 100; from Cheyenne, 123 miles; elevation, 4,434 feet]. 
Is situated on the north side of the North Platte river and con- 
tains a store, hotel, saloon and a number of private houses. The 
railroad company have a depot and freight buildings, a round-house 
and repair shop, and extensive cattle yards and chutes for loading 
stock. 

The railroad is graded up the river a number of miles, and will 
doubtless be extended to northern Wyoming within a few years at 
most. 

The river bottoms are nearly one mile in width along which are 
groves of cottonwood trees. Stock-raising is about the only occu- 
pation of the settlers'. 

Connections— Mail hack: Leaves daily on arrival of trains, northeast to 
Rawhide Butte, 19 miles; Lusk, 16 miles. Fare, about 15 cents per mile. 
Also four-horse coaches daily for Douglass, 50 miles; fare, 15 cents a mile. 



Returning to Cheyenne the 

Connections are— Rail: Cheyenne & Northern branch (see Side Tour No. 6); 
Burlington «S: Missouri River railroad. Also mail hack north to Little Bear, 
51 miles, three times a week; northeast to Little Horse Creek, 44 miles; 
South Bend, six miles, three times a week, connecting at South Bend, north 
for Goshan, 12 miles; also at South Bend, northwest to Phillips, 25 miles, 
once a week. 



SHERMAN — ON BLACK HILLS. 107 



J3@~ OXCE MORE— Westward ! 

Leaving Cheyenne we cross Crow creek, and commence ascend- 
ing the eastern slope of the southern range of the Black hills of 
Wyoming, which are stretching away in a long rugged line. 

Six miles west of Cheyenne, at Colorado Junction, is where the 
Colorado Central branch of Union Pacific turned off to go to Colo- 
rado before that company acquired the Denver and Kansas Pacific 
roads. The track turns to the left of the station and crosses the 
hills to the southward to Fort Collins and thence to Denver, via 
Lougmont, Boulder and Golden — now abandoned as far as Collins. 

After passing Bokie and Otto side-tracks, the heavy grade 
commences and snow fences and snow sheds will be numerous 
until we get over the "hills." 

At (irttllite < Jl IIOII — [From Cheyenne 19 miles; altitude. 7,310 feet]. 
Are extensive stone quarries, limestone and lime kilns. Much of 
the stone and lime used by the railroad company and in Cheyenne 
conies from this place. 

Water for the station is obtained from springs a short distance 
to the south, at the source of Lone Tree creek, a tributary of the 
South Platte river. To the north ten miles, is the site of the 
abandoned Fort Walbach, and the source of Lodge Pole creek. 

Connections — Mail hack: South to Box Elder, 12 miles, twice a week. Also 
mail northeast to Converse, six miles, thence west to Silver Crown, nine 
miles, twice a week. 

Some heavy rock-work now marks the line of road to Buford 
[ten miles], and beyond to the "Summit of the Mountains," 
which sign appears upon a board just before reaching 

SIliTMSSlll — [Elevation, 8,247, from Cheyenne, 33 miles; San Francisco, 
1 ,365 miles.] — Named in honor of Gen. Sherman. On a high point j ust 
to the south of the station stands the great stone monument erected 
to the memory of the Hon. Oakes Ames and his brother Oliver, 
through whose energy and indomitable perseverance the Union 
Pacific railroad was completed in an incredibly short length of 
time, and whose "little memorandum book," of the former, 
paralyzed some great names. 

For the last ten miles the country has presented a wild, rugged 
and grand appearance; the levels and little valleys are covered with 
a fine coat of buffalo grass and clumps of stunted pines, and high, 
bold masses of rock rear their gray sides, piled one upon the other 
in wild confusion, while to the northward the pine-clad peaks of 
the Black hills are visible. Nearing, and at Sherman, the scene 
is peculiarly impressive, especially if it chances to be one of those 
days when the clouds float low down on the horizon; then the ob- 
server may look over the intervening space between the "hills" 
and the mountain range beyond, to the south and westward, and 
See naught but floating masses of vapor; no mountains, no valley, 
no forest — only fleecy shapes, and a long dark line rising above 
them, o'ertopped by the glistening summit of Long's peak. 

From Sherman, "as the bird would fly," Long's peak is south- 
west 70 miles; Pike's peak south, 165 miles; to the northwest 
Elk mountain, 100 miles. In a clear day all are visible. 

The maximum grade of the railroad from Cheyenne to Sher- 
man is 88.176 feet per mile. 

At Sherman the thermometer varies from 82 deg. Fahr. in sum- 
mer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter. 



108 



WINTERS AT SHERMAN. 




VIEW IN Till': YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 



The Winters are not as severe at Sherman as many think 
neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from see- 
ing the great number of v Sno\v Sheds and Fences. Snow seldom 
falls more than a few inches in depth. It is not the depth of 
snow that causes any inconvenience to the working of the road, " 
but it is the drifting of it into the cuts during the heavy winds. 
For the purpose of p r cveuting this the sheds, fences and walls 
are erected along the road — the latter a few rods away from the 
banks of the cuts. The fences cause an eddy or current of air, 
which piles the snow along in huge drifts, keeping it in a great 
measure from the track. Snow sheds cover the deepest cuts along 
the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to oc- 
cur. The cold rains and deepest snows come with an east wind; 
the worst storms come from the southwest. 

Those who reach this altitude from near the sea level will at 
first experience some difficulty in breathing, owing to the light- 
ness and purity of the air; but, by becoming accustomed to the 
change, it will be preferred greatly to a heavier atmosphere. 

In an agricultural point of view the wild, desolate-looking 
landscape, the stunted trees, the rocks and bleakness, we fear 
would disgust an Illinois farmer, while one from New England 
would sniff his native heath and jump in ecstasy. 

There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms 
axe deeper, where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the 
torrents mightier in their power ; but in no place will the tourist 



CROSSING THE BLACK HILLS. 109 

feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from mankind and left 
entirely with nature as at Sherman, on the Black hills of Wyoming. 

Trout — Are abundant in all the streams around the "hills." 
The tiniest rivulets swarm with them and their speckled sides 
glisten in every eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two pounds 
and are of the finest species. 

Game — Antelope, black-tailed deer, some elk, bear, sage-hens, 
grouse, hares and rabbits are found in the mountains, hills, val- 
leys, and on the plateaus along the line of road for the next 31 » > 

miles. 

Connections — Mail-hack: South to Virginia Dale, 17 miles; thence south- 
west to Saint Cloud, nine miles; thence southeast to Alford, seven miles; and 
Livermore, nine miles, twice a week. 



Beyond Sherman for over 110 miles the railroad track is laid 
between the Black hills and the Rockies, presenting varied and 
impressive scenery at different points. 



Dale Creek Bridge — 650 feet long from bluff to bluff and 
126 feet high, over Dale creek — is reached about two miles west 
from Sherman. From the bridge the little stream looks like a 
tangled silver thread as it glistens in the sun's brilliant light, 
which is sifted through the canon crags and iron netting of the 
bridge far down into the green little valley — a valley where at 
times can be gathered countless wild flowers of nearly every vari- 
ety and hue. 

Our train is now on the down grade — no steam required, Tiii 
Siding (six miles from Sherman ) is reached and passed,and we have 
the southern end of the great Laramie plains spread out to the 
west, almost at our feet; 20 miles in width, with the wondrous 
Rock\- mountain range rising from its extreme border — range 
upon range, peak overtopping peak, away up into the regions of 
perpetual snow, nearly 100 miles away. 

Red BltttC* — [Elevation, 7,300; from Sherman, 15 miles; Laramie City, 
nine miles]. — This locality derived its name from several ridges and 
peculiar formations of sandstone lying between the railroad and 
the hills on the right. 

Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 50 to 300 feet 
above the plain, apparently worn and washed by the elements 
into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks, which 
at a distance might be taken for castles, rise side by side with the 
wall of an immense fort; churches rear their roofs, almost shading 
the lowly cottage by their side; columns, monuments and pyra- 
mids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as though 
some malignant power had carried off some mighty city of the 
olden times, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upon 
these plains in bitter disgust. Some few only of these curiosities 
can be seen from the car windows and those are not the largest. 
The tourist stopping over at Laramie would find much of interest 
in this section to investigate. 

The Laramie River — Rises about 50 miles to the southwest from 
this station, on the eastern slope of the mountain — its source the 
eternal snow and innumerable springs — and runs northeast for 100 
miles, where it empties into the North Platte river at Fort Laramie. 

A literary thief is meaner than a yellow dog. 

Crofutt'S Tours No. 2, is profusely illustrated, and all the principal objects 
of interest on the Pacific coast, south of Portland, Oregon, are described. 



110 EARAMIE CITY — NORTH PARK. 

Northward is now our course, the abandoned Fort Sanders is 
passed on the right, and we see a meal station in the distance. 

I iill'il IIIH" C it J' — [Elevation, 7,149 feet; from Cheyenne, 57 miles; Omaha, 
573 miles; Denver, 163 miles; Ogden, 459 miles; pop., 6,500]. — Is the seat of 
Albany comity, situated on the east bank of the Laramie river, on 
the broad plain. The town-site was located early in 1868, since 
which time its progress has been gradual and prosperous. Stock- 
raising is the chief industry. Cattle and sheep are fattened in 
this vicinity and shipped to eastern markets in large numbers; 
wool is also an important item in the exports. The railroad com- 
pany have an extensive machine shop, rolling-mill and spike-mill 
near the town. Large soda refining works are located here, the 
crude material coming over a rail track from Soda lake, 12 miles 
to the southwest, where there are millions of tons of soda; but 
bad management of the works is said to have paralyzed the busi- 
ness, for a time at least. Glass-works are also here, which are said 
to produce a very fine article of goods. 

Laramie supplies numerous camps of miners, lumbermen and 
ranchmen; has two newspapers, the Boomerang, daily and weekly, 
and the Soititiel, weekly. Has a good water system, fire depart- 
ment, electric light, etc., opera house, large brick business blocks, 
half dozen churches, ample schools, and in fact all the requisites 
of a stable and prosperous place. The Thornburg, at the depot, 
is the principal hotel. A saw-mill, planing-mill and a number of 
small factories comprise the industries of the town. Trees line 
many of the streets, and with the running streams near their roots, 
grow rapidly and present a cheerful and home-like appearance; in 
fact, most of the Laramie residents are here to stay. 

Laramie was the first place in America (1809), maybe in the 
world, where a female jury was impaneled. Their first case was 
that of a western desperado; they gave him the full extent of the 
law. 

At the session of the territorial legislature of 1886, the solons 
in dealing out "sugar," appropriated 850, 000 to build the University 
of Wyoming at Laramie, and the building is now being erected. 

Laramie Plains comprise a body of laud about 20 by 60 miles 
in extent. Agriculture is not profitable on these lands, yet it has 
been demonstrated that potatoes and hardy vegetables can be cul- 
tivated with success. Hay makes a good crop, but stock-raising 
is the chief industry. 

The Snowy Range, so-called, is the great backbone of the 
continent; it is covered with snow the greater part of the year, 
the highest peaks ever wearing their white robes, even when the 
passes are covered with flowers. This renders them very conspic- 
uous and easily discerned at a great distance, hence the term. 



North Park — This is one of the least known of all the great 
parks in the Rocky mountain system. Yet it has more natural 
advantages than any of the others. It contains about 300 square 
miles of the finest summer grazing lands in the world. Its eleva- 
tion is from 7,500 to 8,500 feet. It is enclosed by the Medicine 
Bow range on the east, the Continental divide on the south, and 
the Park range on the west, sloping gradually to the north. The 
surface is a series of undulating ground-swells to that of gently 
rolling hills and towering heights, that form an unbroken chain 



NORTH PARK — CRYSTAL LAKE. Ill 

from its south to its northern limits, ami making one of the most 
magnificent mountain ranges in the world, by its length, height 
and immensity. The melting snow on the mountains, and the 
countless springs on their slopes and in the parks form the North 
Platte riyer, which we crossed 290 miles west of Omaha. 

For game it has no equal in the world. Bison, wild cattle, 
deer, elk, antelope, bear, mountain sheep, grouse and quail abound, 
together with grizzlies and mountain lions, but no trout in the 
streams; in their stead are all the different representatives of the 
"sucker" family. 

The recent mining discoveries within and around the park have 
been the means of opening roads through it and settling a portion 
of its prairies on the banks of its streams with stock-men. Rich 
prairies open out before the eye on approaching the park; gentle 
rolling hills and long level bottoms, covered with luxuriant and 
nutritious grass common to the mountain parks, with clear, limpid 
streams, combining all the natural beauty that hill and valley, 
forest and plain, snow and verdure, water and waste can produce 
The brilliant, cool, bracing and refreshing atmosphere of the 
azure firmament assisting the respiration, so that breathing is 
exhilarating to the most sensitive lungs, as well as assisting the 
eye to distinguish objects at a great distance. Scenes more replete 
with beauty cannot be imagined. The meadows of the park to a 
casual observer have the appearance of being boggy, but on close 
examination the hummocks so often found on marshy ground 
are tufts of grass that have grown for man}- years, and remain 
standing by reason of not having been grazed, burned or mowed 
off. All the meadows that have been mowed, grazed or burned 
off become smooth. 

There are two routes to reach the park, . one from Grand Lake 
on Side; Tour No. 1, the other from Laramie. Hacks are run in 
summer, but in winter only saddle animals or snow shoes can be 
used. For distance from Laramie, see connections. 

Crystal, Lake — In the mountains to the west, bordering the 
North Park, is a lovely sheet of water. Should the traveler desire 
to visit it, the road beyond the plain will be found rough and the 
ascent toilsome. Before beginning the ascent of the mountains 
we enter one of the grandest forests in the country. For ten miles 
we toil on through the forest, which is so dense that the sunlight 
hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost oppressive. Bears 
mountain lions and the mountain sheep range here; their haunts 
until lately never having been invaded by the ' ' Pale-face. ' ' Emerg- 
ing from this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find ourselves on the 
highest point of the mountain, from which we can look over piles 
of fleecy clouds floating below us to other ranges far beyond. 
Peak on peak, ridge on ridge the} ascend, until their snow-clad 
heights are lost in the distance or in the vast blue dome above. 

Looking downward, we behold a vast succession of dark ridges 
and gray peaks through the rifts in the fog-like vapor floating 
above them. These dark ridges derive their sombre hue from the 
forests of pines which extend for miles and miles in all directions. 
To the east we see a deep indentation in the mountains which is 
Laramie plains. Across this apparently narrow line, the rugged 
masses of the Black hills rise in their grandeur, their black crests 
closing the scene. 



112 COOPER LAKE — ROCK CREEK. 



Turn now to the immediate lanscape. Here is a green grassy 
lawn, dotted with tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never before 
beheld or even read of, and right before us in the center of this 
lawn lies a circular lake nearly a mile wide, its clear, soft cold 
water glistening in the rays of the sun, and reflecting, as in a mir- 
ror, every object on its banks — transforming them into many fan- 
tastic shapes, as the breeze lovingly kisses the silver surface, 
lifting it into little ripples. 

The scene is one of unsurpassed loveliness immediately around 
you, while the view in the distance is grand, aye, sublime — bevond 
the power of words to depict. Whoever visits this place cannot 
fail of being impressed with its wondrous beauty, and his mind 
will take newer and clearer impressions of the power of "Him who 
hath created all things." 

In places in the western mountains quartz and placer mines 
have been discovered, and some are being worked to advantage 
but the "prospector" has done very little work in this region; 
when he does, good results may be expected. 

Connections — From Laramie west, mail hack in summer, saddle and 
snowshoes in winter to Hatton, 22 miles; thence southwest to Centennial, 
12 miles, once a week. Also to the southwest — same kind of conveyance — three 
times a week to Woods, 25 miles; Pinkhampton (in Colorado), 30 miles, thence 
southeast to Canadian, 12 miles; Walden, 11 miles; thence southeast to 
Haworth, five miles; thence south to Rand, 20 miles; from Walden southwest 
to Hebron, 16 miles; thence south to Spicer, 12 miles, connecting at Spicer 
with lines for Kremmling, Steamboat Springs, Dillon, etc. 



Leaving Laramie, our train rolls northward down the river, 
perhaps stopping for a moment at the unimportant stations of 
Wyoming (14 miles), at the crossing of Little Laramie river; 
Hutton'S (seven miles), Cooper Lake (six miles), west of which 
is a lake of same name, two miles long and half mile wide. At 
Lookout (five miles) we enter the rolling prairie country, where 
for 25 miles along the road bauds of antelope, elk and deer are 
found at different seasons of the year, the elk and deer being 
mostly found in the winter, when the deep snow drives them from 
the mountains. We also begin to find occasional bunches of sage- 
brush, which indicates that we are entering the country where this 
more useful than ornamental shrub abounds. Harper (six miles); 
MiSER (six miles), where sage-brush is the rule; then (five miles) 
after crossing Rock creek we reach what is, for some trains, a 
regular meal station. 

Rook CreeR — [From Laramie, 49 miles; elevation, 6,704 feet] — Situ- 
ated on the creek of that name, in a section wholly devoted to the 
stock interests. A large hotel (sometimes a meal station), depot 
buildings, store and a few private residences comprise the place. 

Connections — Mail hack: North to Mountain Home, 40 miles; Beaver, 27 
miles; DOUGLASS, 16 miles, twice a week. 

Our course is now eastward for a few miles, the train winding 
around the sharp spurs of the high prairie bluffs which seem to 
bar our way by interlocking with each other, on through a rough, 
rolling country, again turning westward over bridges and fills, 
through cuts and snow sheds, crossing creeks and ravines, passing 
Wilcox (seven miles) and Aurora (nine miles). Soon after 
leaving Aurora we come to Como lake, a little sheet of water lying 
to the right of the road. It is about one mile long and half a mile 
wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a " fish with legs." These fish- 
animals possess gills something like a cat-fish, are amphibious, 




FALLS AND CLIFFS IN YELLOWSTONE PARK. 



being often found crawling clumsily on land, miles from the lake. 
Quite a variety of peculiar fossil shells are found around the lake 
that are gathered in summer by persons who offer them for sale to 
tourists. 

Medicine Bow River— Is crossed a few miles after leaving 
Como. It rises in the Medicine Bow mountains to the southwest, 
and empties its waters into the North Platte river. 

I - Sh^ld you have the stomach-ache or cut your finger while on .tiu ^Pacific 
coast don't fail to abuse a Chinaman for it. It's the thing to do over there, in 
Utah charge it up to the Mormons, on polygamy account. 



114 CARBON — ELK MOUNTAIN. 

This river was long a noted resort for Indians and several 
treaties have been made on its banks between the "noble red 
men" and their pale-faced "brothers." The valley of the river, 
above the railroad, for 20 miles or more, is broad, fine bottom 
land, until it reaches the base of the mountain. From thence to 
its source the course of the river is through immense forests of 
pine, which present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are 
found in great quantities in the streams, and the various kinds of 
game which abound in this country are found in the mountains 
where the river has its source. 

medicine Bow — [From Rock Creek, 23 miles].— Contains several 
stores and saloons. The railroad company have a round-house 
here besides the usual freight and station buildings. Stock-raising 
is the only industry in this region of the country. 

For nearly eight miles after leaving the "Bow," the road is over 
a level plain, beyond which a rough, hilly country is entered, as 
well as a number of snow sheds. 

CjlFDOll — [Pop., Soo; from the "Bow," ten miles; from Cheyenne, 141 
miles; elevation, 6,821 feet].— Is the first place on the Union Pacific rail- 
road where coal was discovered and the company secured the mines 
and have ever since mined, used and shipped large quantities. 

All but a few of the citizens of Carbon are engaged in mining 
coal, and that few are stock-raisers The usual number of stores, 
etc. , found in a place of the size are represented here. 

Connections — Mail hack: South to Elk Mountain, 13 miles, three times a 
week; thence connecting for the southeast to Rockdale, 17 miles, twice a 
week. Also to the north from Carbon to Ross, 15 miles; thence west to Leo, 
15 miles, once a week. 

Westward, the divide between the waters of Medicine Bow and 
the Platte is traversed. Simpson (six miles) is passed and Percy 
(five miles) reached. 

Kt.k MOUNTAIN is seven miles due south from Percy, at the 
base of which, in "ye olden times," was located Fort Halleck, and 
an important station on the old overland stage line. This moun- 
tain is a noted landmark and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises 
to an altitude of 11,511 feet, its top covered with snow the greater 
portion of the year, and at all times snow can be found in places 
near the summit. It has the appearance of being an isolated peak, 
though really it is the extreme northern outpost of the Medicine 
Bow mountains. It is, however, surrounded by high rolling 
prairie land and rises from it rough, rugged and alone. It is 
nearly round, and about six miles in diameter at its base. On the 
west side the summit is easily reached by a lumber road. The 
sides to nearly the top are covered with a dense forest of pine, fir 
and hemlock. To the east of the mountain, Medicine valley; to 
the south and west, Soda and Pass creek valleys. In places 
along these vallevs a large amount of hay is gathered by the stock- 
men for their winter use. 

In all the little creeks in these valleys and vicinity the moun- 
tain trout has its home. You can find him in, and he will enter- 
tain you. Haired and feathered game of all kinds can also be 
found. Some of the former are very large and are named moun- 
tain lions, grizzlies, bears, cats, etc., who find their homes in the 
fastness of the forest, in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of 
the mountains. If you have the nerve go for them ! but you must 
look a Icetle out all the time. 



FORT FRED STEELE — AND VICINITY. 115 



From Percy to the Platte river, 29 miles, the road is built down 
the valley of an alkali ravine. Sage-brush and pools of alkali 
water alone greet the eye. Dana (six miles) is passed, then Edson 
(eight miles) and Wolcott (eight miles), all great names, but in 
this case combined their checks would fail to sell for the wing- 
feather of a nickel. 

Before reaching Wolcott's the valley narrows to a ravine, then 
to a narrow gorge; then rugged spurs shoot out from towering 
bluffs on either side as though to bar our progress; yet down we 
go whirling around these finger points where one projection from 
either wall marks an indenture on the other. While looking on 
this scene one cannot help fancying that one time this chasm was 
not — that some fearful convulsion of nature rent the mighty rocks 
in twain, leaving these ragged walls and fetid pools to attest the 
fact. Be that as it may, we now know that our train is thundering 
down this dismal gorge, at lightning speed, dodging and shying 
all apparent obstructions, when suddenly our iron horse gives 
forth one long terrific shout, and whirls out to daylight and to 
the level lands of North Platte river, crosses the river, and stops a 
moment, to take a drink, at 

Fori Fred StCt'le — [Elevation, 6,505feet; from Wolcott, six miles].— 
This post was established June 30th, 1868, and abandoned in 1886, 
only an agent being left to protect the government property. 

Connection — Mail hack: South to Saratoga, 28 miles, six times a week. 
From Saratoga southward to Swan, 20 miles; Collins, ten miles, twice a week, 

North Platte River — We first interviewed this stream 290 
miles from Omaha. Under Laramie it was again seen, but now, as 
we are leaving it forever, will say: From its source in the North 
Park to this place it is over 150 miles, nearly due north. Above 
vSteele 2"> miles is the old Platte ferry (now a bridge), on the old 
stage road. From 80 to 50 miles up the river Douglass, French, 
Monument and Big creeks empty their waters into the Platte. On 
both Douglass and French creeks gold placers have been discov- 
ered and are being worked; also several quartz mines. 

Eight miles from Douglass creek some fine coal mines have- 
been discovered; near by quartz veins crop out on the hillside, 
and hot sulphur springs, seven in number, are "running wild" 
only a few feet from where rises a clear, sparkling spring of ice- 
cold water; and we opine that .the time is not far distant when 
these springs will be taken up, a narrow gauge railroad laid down, 
hotels built, and one of the finest "watering places" in the world 
opened to the public. 

% ..'-"The last paragraph above was written in July, 1869, and 
appeared in the first volume of our Trans-Continental Guide. 
Was it prophecy? Call it what you will, but the coal lands have 
all been taken up, also the springs; a fine hotel has been erected; 
the bed for the railroad graded (by Union Pacific Co. ) and before 
•many more moon.-, have come and gone, the locomotive will haul 
the traveler in palace cars to this Saratoga of the west. 

At Saratoga, on the Platte river near the junction of Spring 
creek, are hot springs said to possess valuable medicinal qualities; 
a hotel has been recently erected near which affords good accom- 
modations. The region abounds with game and the streams in 
the vicinity with trout. 

It takes a smart man to conceal from others what he does not know. 



116 RAWLINS — LANDER — WASHAKIE. 

Leaving Fred Steele and climbing up onto the prairie, two 
miles brings us to Benton, which, in August, 1868, boasted of a 
population of fully 3,000, but before October following — the "end 
of the track" having meantime stretched away to the westward 
Kid miles — the people "packed up their tents and stole noiselessly 
away," leaving only a few lone graves, old chimneys, scattered 
cans and post holes to mark the site of the once "booming town." 

After reaching Benton, the bluffs which mark the entrance to 
the canon of the Platte below Fort Steele are plainly visible, and 
will continue in sight for 15 miles. At the entrance of the 
canon the river makes a turn to the west, and for several miles our 
train seems to be running down the river parallel with it though 
really drawing away to the westward. 

Hog Back — Four miles to the southward rises a high ridge 
from 500 to 1,000 feet above the prairie. It is about 15 miles in 
length, terminating in the highlands to the westward. It is called 
the "Hog Back." It is but about half a mile wide at the base, ris- 
ing so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it, and in places it 
is all but impossible for a man to walk along its summit. Where 
this ridge reaches the river, about three miles above Fred Steele, 
the walls are perpendicular, and about 1,(100 feet in height. A 
corresponding range on the opposite side shows that the river has 
cut a channel through this ridge, which at one time barred the 
progress of the waters. 

From Fred Steele our train has been gradually climbing, and 
will continue to do so for over 40 miles from that place. 

RitWllllS — [Pop., 2,ioo; elevation, 6,744 feet; from Denver, 289 miles; 
Omaha, 709 miles; Ogden, 223 miles.]— Seat of Carbon county, named in 
honor of Gen. J. A. Rawlins. Stock-raising is the chief occupation 
of the people, though there are many citizens interested in mining 
and several hundred employed by the railroad company in their 
machine shops and works located here. 

The county buildings, water works, churches, schools, banks 
hotels and business blocks are equal to any in the territory. 
The Railroad and Brunswick are the principal hotels. Thejour- 
//<?/, tri-weekly, the Tribune, weekly, and the Laborette, weekly, 
are newspapers published here. 

Near the town are extensive quarries of valuable sandstone, 
being worked, and an inexhaustible deposit of red oxide, which 
supplies a valuable mineral paint that is now extensively used by 
the railroad company, as well as shipped to eastern markets. 

Near the town is a fine spring of sulphur water rising from 
under the bed of blue limestone, but it is little used — the citizens 
being a reading people, are a little suspicious of sulphur. 



To the north of Rawlins lit) miles, is the town of Landlr, in 
Johnson county, situated in a beautiful little valley, watered by 
the Popo Agie and its numerous branches, just at the eastern base 
of the Wind River mountains, and within a few miles of the great 
oil wells of Wyoming. Ten miles north is the 

Shoshone and Arapahoe Indian reservation, comprising 
1,520,000 acres in the Wind River valley, on which are 1,963 Indians. 

Fort Washakie, a government military post on the reserva- 
tion, is garrisoned by two companies of the 7th Infantry, G and I, 
and one troop, E, of the 9th Cavalry, about 150 men— Maj. A. T. 
Smith, commanding. 



CONTINENTAL, DIVIDE. 117 



For business Lander, the Fort and the oil fields are tributary 

to Rawlins. 

Connections— Northwest, daily, four-horse stages for Crooks, 70 miles; 
Rongis, nine miles; thence westward, Mayersville, 16 miles; Hailey, 14 
miles; Derby-, 14 miles; Lander, 14 miles; Shoshone Agency, 14 miles, and 
Fort Washakie, two miles, Total, 153 miles. 

Connecting at Hailey three times a week, to the northwest to Miners' De- 
light, 20 miles; Atlantic City, four miles; South Pass City, four miles. 

Connencting at Fort Washakie, north once a week, for F.mbar, 65 miles; 
Meeteetse, 60 miles; theuce northeast to Otto, 45 miles, and east to Hyatt- 
ville, 45 miles. 

Connecting at Rongis, north once a week for Lost Cabin, 61 miles; Red 
Bank, 45 miles; Spring Creek, 20 miles; thence northwest to Bonanza, 40 
miles; thence northeast to Hyatville, 15 miles. 

From Rawlins north twice a week to Ferris, 46 miles; Sweetwater. 18 
miles, and Lamar, nine miles. 

Connecting at Ferris, southeast once a week to Seminoe, 15 miles; also from 
Ferris, northwest once a week to Durbin, iS miles. 

From Rawlins south, three times a week to SrLriirR, 2S miles; BAGG'S, 
36 miles, and thence east to Dixon, six miles. 

Connecting at Dixon, east twice a week to Slater, ten miles; also from 
Dixon, southwest once a week to Lay, 45 miles, 

Connecting at Lay, south three times a week to Routt, eight miles. 
Meeker, 36 miles; Ferguson on the Grand river, 46 miles. 

Separation— West from Rawlins 13 miles, is a small station, 
so named from its being a point where two parties of railroad sur- 
veyors in early days, who had been near each other for a long 
distance, separated to run different lines to the westward. 

The railroad company have a number of artesian wells along 
the line that are from 326 feet to 1,145 feet in depth, flowing from 
400 to 1,000 gallons an hour, in one place 26 feet above the sur- 
face. By pumping these wells will supply from 650 to 2,400 gal- 
lons of water per hour. The one at this station is 1,103 feet deep, 
in which the water stands ten feet from the surface, and by pump- 
ing yields 2,000 gallons per hour. 

We are rising rapidly, and after passing Fillmore (eight miles) 
and Creston (six miles) are nearing the summit of the main range 
of the Rocky mountains, which is reached two and a half miles 
west of Creston, marked by a sign-board on the north side, reading 

"Continental Divide." 

The altitude of this divide is 7,100 feet. It is distant from 
Rawlins 30 miles; Cheyenne, 223 miles; Omaha, 739 miles, and 
Ogden, 293 miles. 

Standing on this wild spot surrounded by few evidences of 
vegetation, this little sign marks the center of the grandest range 
of mountains on the continent. Amid what seems to have been 
the wreck of mountains, we stand and gaze away in the vast dis- 
tance at the receding lines of hill, valley and mountain peaks, 
which we have passed on our journey. We feel the cool mountain 
breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma of life and vegetation 
with its cooling current. We know that the same sky which 
hangs so warm and blue over the smiling valleys looks down upon 
us now — but how changed the aspect! Thin, gray and cold it ap- 
pears, and so clear that we almost expect to see the stars looking 
down through the glistening sunbeams. We do not seem to be on 
the mountain height, for the expanse seems but a once level plain, 
now arched and broken into ugly, repulsive hollows and desolate 
knobs. 

Here, if a spring should rise from this sage-brush knoll, its 
waters would divide, and the different portions eventually mingle 
with the two oceans which wash the opposite sides of the continent. 



118 BITTER CREKK — ROCK SPRINGS. 



To the north the Sweet Water mountains rear their rugged 
heights. Still farther the Wind River mountains close the scene 
in the dim distance, their summits robed in snow. To the south- 
ward rise rugged outposts of the Rockies, along the northern base 
of which our train will run nearly on to 50 miles. . 

With a farewell look at this rugged, barren and desolate region, 
our train speeds away over the crest and will h?ve down grade for 
the next 106 miles, dropping down in that distance 1,033 feet. 

Seven miles gives Latham the go-by and eight miles further 
brings Washakie to view. Here is an artesian well 638 feet deep, 
which at 15 feet above the surface flows 800 gallons per hour. 

Red Desert — Is nine miles further, a pair of them, station 
and desert — the former in the midst of the latter. This desert 
waste extends each way about 16 miles, and is composed of the 
decomposition of shale and calcareous clays, and is deep red, show- 
ing the presence of an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. It's a huge 
basin, its waters having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are found 
in it, but nothing lives on its surface. The southern margin of the 
basin is mainly sand, which is lifted up by every passing breeze to 
fall in drifts and shifting mounds. 

Table Rock— [From Red Desert station. 12 miles].— Is named for a 
red sandstone bluff to the left, which rises full 500 feet above the 
station. It is the most conspicuous in a long range of red cliffs, 
which are mainly composed of fresh water shells, worn, cut and 
fluted by the action of the elements. Passing through the rim of 
the desert and MoNEEE, we reach 

Killer Creek— [From Table Rock, ten miles].— At this place the 
railroad company have a round-house and a machine shop for re- 
pairs. Stock-raising is the only industry here; and the number of 
cattle and sheep ranging within 50 miles is almost incredible. 



Soon after leaving this station we commence the descent of the 
celebrated Bitter creek of "ye olden times." The overland stage 
and emigrant road follows this valley from its source to Green 
river, 60 miles. The valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near the 
creek on either side. The stream is small and so strongly im- 
pregnated with alkali as to be almost useless for man or beast. 
The banks and bottoms are very treacherous in places, miring any 
cattle which attempt to reach its fetid waters. This section was 
always a terror to travelers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing 
in the line of vegetation will grow excepting grease-wood and 
sage-brush. The freighter especially who had safely navigated 
this section would "ring his popper" and claim that he was a 
"tough cuss on wheels from Bitter creek," etc. 

The further we go the higher the bordering bluffs, the valley 
narrowing, while the spurs reach out lovingly to meet their 
brothers on the opposite side. 

The small stations of Black BuTTES, nine miles; Haleville, 
five miles; Point of Rocks, seven miles; Thayer, six miles; 
Sai.T WEELS, six miles, are soon passed and we arrive at 

Rock Springs— [seven miles; pop., 1,500].— The greatest coal 
mining town on the line of the Union Pacific. The station was 
named after a saline spring of water which boils up near the foot 
of the bluffs, looking very clear and nice but it's very deceiving — 
an uncommon thing in this truthful world. 



CHINESE MASSACRE — GREEN RIVER. 119 

There are a number of mercantile establishments here, some 
of which do a very large business among the stock-growers — cattle 
and sheep. The shipments from this station other than coal, 
which goes by train loads daily, are cattle, sheep and wool. To the 
south from 15 to 30 miles are a few settlers who do a little in the 
agricultural line, and raise good crops, too — but the one, stock- 
raising, is the almost exclusive industry. The Wyoming Coal 
Co. (a sub-name for the railroad company) do an immense business 
in this vicinity in milling and shipping coal. It was at this place 
where the infamous Chinese massacre took place September 2d, 
18S5, in which the abodes of the Chinese were sacked and burned 
by unnaturalized white miners, who hunted the Chinese to the 
hills, killing upwards of 30 and maltreating hundreds of others. 
The riot w y as quelled by the arrival of government troops; and 
the government paid the bill rendered by the Chinese government. 
Camp Pilot Butte — Is a government post located half a mile 
north of the depot — placed there for the protection of the Chinese 
miners — about 1,000 — and the coal mines iu the vicinity. The 
Union Pacific Railway Co. built the quarters for officers and men 
without expense to the government. The camp is now garrisoned 
by two companies, A and H, of the 7th Infantry, about 100 men, 
Capt. H. B. Freeman, commanding. 

Pipe Line — January 9th, 1888, the citizens of Green River City 
and Rock Springs celebrated the completion (by the railroad com- 
pany) of a pipe line for conducting water from Green river to a reser- 
voir overlooking this town. Heretofore since the completion of the 
railroad in 1869, a water train has been run between the two places; 
as the water near Rock Springs is too saline for use. 

We are sorry to say Rock Springs has no adequate hotel 
accommodations — but what it lacks in that respect is made up in 
the Independent, a spicy weekly newspaper published here. 

Coal veins crop out all along Bitter creek, varying in thickness 
from a few inches to 12 feet. On the bluffs near Point of Rocks, 
just above a coal vein, Prof. Hayden says, "is a seam of oyster 
shells six inches in thickness, which is an extinct and undescribed 
species, about the size of our common edible ones." 

The sandstone bluffs at points along the road are worn by the 
action of the elements into curious fantastic shapes, some of which 
have been named "Cavesof the Sand," "Hermit's Grotto, "Water- 
washed Caves of the Fairies," "Sancho's Bower," etc. 

Prof. Hayden in his geographical examination of this section of 
the creek, reported finding "preserved in the rocks the greatest 
abundance of deciduous leaves of the poplar, ash, elm and maple." 
Again, "among the plants found is a specimen of fan-palm, which 
at the time it grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous dimensions, 
sometimes having a spread of ten or 12 feet. These gigantic palms 
seem to have formed a conspicuous feature among the trees of 

these ancient forests." — ■ 

From the Springs down the scenery becomes more striking, the 
gorge narrow and the bluffs higher, almost hanging over the road 
with their frowning battlements. Through this gorge rattles our 
train, 15 miles to the waters of the Green, to a meal station. 

CJrCCII River — [Pop., 600; elevation, 6,077 feet; from Ogden, 1S7 miles; 
Cheyenne, 329 miles]. — Seat of Sweetwater county where are located 
substantial county buildings and the largest and best hotel and 
meal station on the whole line of road. The appearance of the 



120 GREEN RIVER AND VICINITY. 

town — from an eastern standpoint — is not beautiful; but the amount 
of business done figures heavy, that of one firm alone (Hunter 
& Morris) is little short of $200,000 per annum. Gold, silver, coal 
and plumbago mines are tributary to this place for business, and 
the whole country around about is rich in cattle, sheep and 
horses — it has them on more than a "thousand hills." The 
country to the north and south, and just over that bluff affords the 
finest grazing range in the western country. 

Down the Green from ten to 40 miles, oats, barley, potatoes, 
vegetables and alfalfa, have made good crops, but these have been 
raised principally by stock-men for their own use. Up the Green 
Prof. Pease, of Central City, Col., accomplished some astonishing 
results, but we understand he has left the country to accept a 
position as Chief of Agriculture for the English government in 
India. 

The railroad company have here the usual machine shops and 
buildings found at terminal stations; besides which there are here 
several small manufactories and a brewer} 7 . 

The bluffs near the station present a peculiar formation called 
by Prof. Hayden the "Green river shales." The walls rise per- 
pendicularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish buff color, and 
are composed of layers apparently sedimentary deposits of all 
thicknesses from that of a knife -blade to two feet. At the base of 
the bluff the layers are thin and composed of arenaceous clay, 
with laminated sandstone, mud markings and other indications of 
shallow water or mud flats; color for 100 feet, ashen brown; next 
above are lighter colored layers, alternate with greenish layers 
and line white sand. Passing up, clay and lime predominate, then 
come layers of boulders, pebbles and small nodules. 

There are also seams of very fine black limestone saturated 
with petroleum. Near the summit under the shallow calcareous 
sandstone, there are over 50 feet of shales that contain more or less 
of oily material. The hills all around are capped with a deep 
rusty yellow sandstone, which presents the peculiar castellated 
forms which with the banded appearance, have given so much 
celebrity to the scenery about this station. 

YE Olden Times — For years previous to the building of the 
railroad, Bill Hickman, Brigham Young's destroying angel, ran 
a ferry across the river just below this station, and as the river was 
seldom fordable except late in the fall he reaped a rich harvest of 
gold from the overland pilgrims. His prices for crossing teams 
were from $o to §20, according as the owners were found able to 
pay. Those times were, comparatively only yesterday and to-day 
we might say with the juggler "presto!" and you can note the 
changes. We have the "iron horse," the palace cars, the sub- 
stantial iron bridge, and are whirled across the continent at forty 
miles an hour. Do travelers on these flying trains while resting 
at their ease ever think of the early pilgrims, the hardy pioneers 
who toiled across this country with ox teams, andtheir all on earth 
maybe with a hand cart; on foot and alone, requiring from five to 
seven months traveling the same distance now made in three days? 
These pioneers laid out the route we are traveling to-day and made 
it safe for us. They suffered every kind of hardship, many even 
unto death and the few that remain are fast passing "o'er the 
range," yet the fruits of their adventurous and daring intrepidity 
will ever remain. 



GREEN RIVER BASIN— EXPLORATIONS. 121 



Connkctions— Buck-board: Northwest once- a week to Fontenelle, 65 
miles; Dry Piney, 35 miles; thence east to Big Piney, 14 miles. 

GREEN River rises near Fremont's peak in the Wind River 
mountains, nearly 200 miles north, and is fed by innumerable springs 
and tributary streams, chief of which is Big Sandy. About 150 
miles south of this station it unites with the Grand and becomes 
the Colorado river. 

The Basin of Green river, although not properly a basin, con- 
tains about 8,000 square miles of mountain, foot-hill, high prairie 
and valley laud, divided about equally. The mountain portion is 
well stocked with timber, as yet untouched by the axman; the 
foot-hills are covered with the finest grasses; the high prairies and 
valleys with a heavy growth of sage-brush, from a soil as rich as 
the richest in our country; and right here let us say there is not 
an acre of sage-brush land in any portion of the western states and 
territories of the United States but will produce good crops, cereals 
and vegetables, with water for irrigating them. This proposition, 
with our western people or those who have had the observation to 
note the results of irrigation in Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Arizona, 
Montana, New Mexico and Wyoming, on this kind of land is well 
established — "goes without saying." 

Only a small portion of the lands in this "basin" has been 
surveved by the government, and only a few thousand acres are 
claimed and settled upon. 

Minerals — Gold, silver, copper, lead and plumbago mines 
have been found in the mountains surrounding the "basin," some 
of which are worked very successfully. 

Fish — in many varieties, are numerous in all the streams near 
their head, particularly the famous and favorite mountain trout. 
In "hooking" trout in this region, the delight of the sport is much 
lessened by the abundance of fish ami their verdancy as to the de- 
signs of the angler. 

Game — such as elk, antelope, deer, bear and mountain sheep are 
more abundant in the Green river basin and adjoining mountains 
than in any part of our western country, while grizzlies and moun- 
tain lions are not uncommon in the higher mountain canons. 
But of all game, the hares, cotton-tail rabbits, prairie chickens and 
sage hens, are most numerous; in fact the whole country is alive 
with them, almost to becoming a nuisance. They are too abund- 
ant to sustain the sportsman's interest in "bagging" them. 

Exploring Expedition — From Green River station the first 
exploring expedition of Maj. Powell started May 24th, 1869. The 
party consisted of about a dozen well-armed, intrepid men, mostly 
western hunters. They had four well-built boats, with which to 
explore the mysterious and terrible canons of the lower Green and 
Colorado rivers. These gorges were comparatively unknown, the 
abrupt mountain walls having turned the travel far from their 
sterile shores. Science and commerce demanded a solution of the 
question: "Can the upper Colorado be navigated?" and Maj. 
Powell undertook to solve the problem. The party encountered 
many hardships and discovered the most magnificent canon scenery 
in the world. The report of the major enlightened the people on 
the mysteries of a very interesting region before wholly unknown, 
at the same time demonstrated that the Colorado is not navigable 
for large craft. 



122 GRANGER — CHURCH BUTTES. 

Xorlll-AVesl Coast — At Green river trains are made up for 
the Oregon Short-Line, for Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washing- 
ton and the Puget Sound country. And after we have been over 
to Utah and visited the land of mothers-in-law, we will return 
here and take a run over this new line, commencing on page 165. 



Leaving Green River station, we cross the river and follow 
along its western bank, in places through heavy cuttings almost 
over the river, affording a fine view of the frowning cliffs on the 
opposite side. 

Twenty miles to the northeast stands in plain view a noted 
landmark — "Pilot Butte" — in isolated loneliness. 

On we go, twisting around the side of a ridge to find a good 
crossing place; presently it is reached and we descend to the valley 
of Black's Fork, and soon reach Bryan [i 3 miles], a side-track of 
little importance at present. We say at present, for at one time 
3,000 people called this their abiding place. It was in November, 
1868, when the exodus commenced, the same as at Benton the 
month before. 

Eight miles further Marston, another side-track, is left behind, 
and ahead is 

OrtlllgCr — [Pop., 50; elevation, 6,279 feet\ from Cheyenne, 360 miles; Og- 
den, 156 miles ; Huntington, 540 miles]. — This place in a period of 40 
years, has been at times a noted and busy one. A Mr. Granger 
fathered the ranch for over 20 years. At first it was a Mormon 
trading post with both Indians and pilgrims. It being situated at 
the junction of the South Pass and Bitter creek wagon roads from 
the east to Salt Lake via Fort Bridger, where good feed and water 
could be had, it became a general lying over and resting point for 
emigrants and freighters. When the overland stages were put on 
the route it became more of a rendezvous than ever. Then came 
Jack Casement with his minions November, 1868, and laid the last 
seven and a half miles of railroad track, before reaching this sta- 
tion, in one day — between sun and sun. Later the building of 
the Oregon branch gave the place another "boom," but when that 
line was finished Philbrick's goats arrived, and all glory soon 
departed. 

To the south rise in plain view the Uintah mountains, fully 100 
miles away. Their dark sides indicate forests of timber, while 011 
their summit the snow ever rests. The valley of the Beaver lies 
at the northern base of the range, is settled, and is one of the most 
productive sections of the territory. Corn, potatoes, vegetables 
and small grain grow and yield abundantly. Jim Bridger and 
other trappers of the American Fur Co. made this valley their 
headquarters as early as 1825. 

Leaving Granger Ham's Fork is crossed, up which runs the 
Oregon Short Line branch, as before stated. 



Cllliroll Bllttes — [ten miles]. — Has some notoriety for moss 
agates. These beautiful stones are along the line of the railroad 
from Green River to Piedmont; in some places they are very 
plentiful. 

A few miles before reaching this place, by looking away to the 
left — ten miles — can be seen the God-father of this station. It is 
the most conspicuous in a long range of sandstone bluffs, of pecu- 



CLIMBING TO ASPEN. 12.' 



liar formation. It rises in lofty domes and pinnacles, which at a 
distance resembles the fluted columns of some cathedral of the 
olden time, standing in the midst of desolation, its lofty turreted 
roof and towering spires rising far above the surrounding country; 
but with the glass or on nearer approach, the scene changes and 
we find a huge mass of sandstone, worn and washed by the ele- 
ments until it has assumed the outline of a church of the grandest 
dimensions. 

Passing Hampton [seven miles] a glance to the left will dis- 
cover a range of peculiar buttes, showing a length of water-line 
which indicates there has been " high water " here some dav. 



Carter — [ten miles]. — is the next station. It was named for the 
late Judge Carter who passed many years of his life as post trader at 

Fort Bridger — ten miles east from this station — daily stage, 
over the bluffs, out of sight, was established, in 1858, by Gen. 
A. S.Johnston — latitude, 41 deg. 18 min. and 12 sec; longitude, 
110 deg. 82 min. and 88 sec. It was the first government post 
located in the west. It was named for the late James Bridger, 
the renowned hunter, trapper and guide who lived in this country 
nearly half a century. 

The post is garrisoned by D and H companies of the 17th In- 
fantry and D, F and H companies of the 21st Infantry, Maj. J. N. 
Andrews of the 21st commanding. 

Black's Fork, which runs through the center of the parade 
ground, affords excellent water, and with Smith's Fork, a stream 
five miles southeast, affords as fine trout as there is in the 
country. 

Stock raising — cattle and sheep — is the only industry now in 
the country for the next 50 miles. For the next 20 miles, scrub 
cedar in the high rocky bluffs, sage-brush, red sandstone and red 
clay, with bunch-grass for sandwiching, is the make-up of the sur- 
rounding country. It is inhabited by a few wood-choppers, some 
stock-men, a few deer, antelope, coyotes and jack-rabbits by the 
thousands. For agricultural purposes it is not our choice. 



From Bridger station [ten miles] we commence to climb the 
second highest elevation on this line of road. After passing L,R- 
ROY [five miles] the old overland wagon road comes down from 
the left and crosses our road running to the westward and north- 
ward of Aspen mountain, while we keep on past Piedmont [ten 
miles] through a long line of snow sheds, and reach the summit of 
the divide just to the south of the mountain. 

Aspeil Station— [ten miles; elevation, 7,395 feet]. — Has only a 
small saw-mill located here; gets its logs from the Uintah moun- 
tains to the south. 

This station is named for ''Quaking Asp" mountain to the north, 
the summit of which is covered with snow the most of the year. 

The "quaking asp" or aspen, a species of poplar, grows in pro- 
fusion in the gulches and on the sides of the mountain. The old 
stage road, as we have said, winds around the northern base while 
the railroad girds its southern borders, nearly encircling it between 
the old and the new, decay and death marking the one; life, 
energy and growing strength the other 



Leaving Aspen the grade is all downward to Salt Lake valley. ' 



124 



UTAH'S SURE CROP. 




YOUNG MORMON BISHOPS, ETC. 



Hilliard — [five miles] — once a prosperous and busy place, from 
the immense quantities of lumber, ties, telegraph poles, wood, 
etc., floated down in a V flume from the pineries of the Uintah 
mountains from 20 to 35 miles distant, southward, and the 
great quantities of charcoal burned and shipped to the smelters 
in Salt Lake valley from here, is now almost 'deserted, and the 
question naturally arises : Why this desolation or suspended 
action? Maybe the law against cutting timber, etc., on govern- 
ment lands may have something to do with it. 



COOPER — AND HIS VIGILANTES. 125 

Bear River City Riot — Three miles from Hilliard we pass 
the site of the once famous and then infamous Bear River City. 
It is situated in a little valley at the mouth of a ravine, where the 
old wagon road comes down from the north of Quaking Aspen. 

The town was laid out in October, 1868, in advance of the rail- 
road, but where the terminal point would probably be during the 
following winter. 

The route of the railroad was lined with graders, contractors 
and teamsters, who all earned and had a large amount of money. 

At this point the roughs and gamblers who had been driven 
from point to point westward by the vigilantes, made a stand, con- 
gregating in large numbers. They swore that they would be driven 
no further; that here they would stay and fight it out to the bitter 
end. The town contained about 1,000 law-abiding people, and 
when the roughs felt that trouble was coming on them, they with- 
drew to the hills and organized for a raid on the town. Meanwhile 
some of the roughs remained in the town, and among them were 
three noted garroters who had added to their long list of crimes 
that of several murders. The citizens arose, seized and hung 
them. In this act the}- were sustained by all law-abiding people, 
also by the Index, a paper which had followed the road, and was 
then published here. This hastened the conflict and on the 19th 
of November, 1868, the roughs attacked the town in force, burned 
the jail, taking from thence a number of their kind who were con- 
fined there, and shooting down a citizen — a Mr. Stokes — who was 
sent to them by the citizens as a mediator. They next sacked the 
office and destroyed the materials of the Frontier Index, which 
was situated in a building close to the railroad on the south side. 
Elated with their success, the mob, numbering about 300 well- 
armed desperadoes, marched over to the north side, up the main 
street, and made an attack on the bank and store belonging to one of 
the leading merchants, Mr. James B. Cooper, now of the firm of 
Cooper & McNeil, of San Francisco. Here they were met with a 
volley from Winchester rifles in the hands of brave and deter- 
mined citizens who had collected in the store. The mob was 
thrown into confusion, and fled down the street pursued by the 
citizens, about 30 in number. The first volley and the running 
fight left 32 of the desperadoes dead on the street. The number 
of wounded was over 100; the bodies of many were afterwards 
found in the gulches and among the rocks, where they had 
Crawled away and died. From this time the roughs abandoned 
the city. 

The town declined i;s soon as the road was built past it, and 
now there is nothing left to mark the place except a few old 
chimneys, broken bottles and scattered oyster cans. 

Passsing on, the bluffs are high and broken, coming close to the 
road, leaving but a narrow valley until we reach 

Bear RivER — A rapid stream coming down from the. south, 
from its source in the Uintah mountains; has many tributaries, 
which abound in very fine trout, and quite a business is carried on 
in catching and salting them for market. The river runs almost 
due north to Bear lake, from which it takes its name. The lake is 
about 15 miles long by five miles wide, full of trout and other fish, 
and surrounded by many little Mormon settlements. From the 
northern end of the lake the river runs to the north, curving to 



126 WYOMING — UTAH — ECHO CANON. 



the west and then to the south, and empties into Great Salt Lake, 
near Corinne, Utah. The course of the river can best be understood 
when we say that it resembles the letter U in shape. From where 
it rises it runs due north to latitude 42 deg. of) min., then suddenly 
turning it runs south to latitude 41 deg. 4o min., before it finds the 
lake. Within this beijd lies the Wasatch mountains, a spur of the 
Uintah, a rugged, rough, bold but narrow range. 

The entire region is wild and picturesque, and would well repay 
the tourist for the time spent in visiting it. 

It may be well to bear in mind that the next sto is a meal 
station. 

l'iY<tll*tOU — [Pop., 3,000; elevation, 6,759 feet; from Cheyenne, 439 miles, 
ogden, 77 miles], — Is the seat of Uintah county and is situated just 
half-zvay between the Missouri river and the Pacific ocean — 
Omaha and San Franciso— 957 miles to either. The Territorial 
Asylum for Insane was completed here January 1, 1888, at a cost 
of *45,000, furnished complete. The citizens of Evanston are 
mostly engaged in coal mining, coke burning, lumbering and 
stock-raising. The railroad company have a large round-house, 
extensive machine shops for repairs, large freight buildings and 
one of the largest station hotels on tli2 cystem. 

Beside the wdiite population there are nearly l,(l<><> Chinese in 
Evanston and the vicinity, mostly at the coal mines at Alma, sit- 
uated just around the point of the mountain to the north, four 
and a half miles away, These mines are very extensive, easily 
worked, yielding coal of good quality, and employ about 1,000 
men. From 100 to 150 car loads are shipped from Alma per day 
to towns on the line of the Southern Pacific railroad in Nevada 
and California, beside a large amount consumed by both the Union 
and Southern companies. From the main track about one mile 
north of Evanston, a branch track is laid to the mines. 



Connections — Mail stage: North daily, Alma, four miles; Red Canon, two 
miles; Woodruff, 12 miles; Randolph, 12 miles; Laketown, 15 miles; 
Meadowville, four miles; Garden City, eight miles; Fish Haven, eight 
miles; St. Charles, five miles; Bloomington, seven miles; Paris, two miles; 
Ovid, four miles; Liberty, four miles, and Montpelier, ten miles. 



Leaving Evanston, we leave Bear river to the right and direct 
our course due west, passing Wasatch [ n miles], and a sign-board 
a short distance beyond reading, "Wyoming," — "Utah," indicating 
the dividing line between these territories. 

Being now on the Wasatch mountains in the sacred land of 
Zion, a towering elevation directly in front bars our vision and 
apparently our way. Our engineer — with an eye to the future — 
noted the position in a moment; and suddenly grasping the situa- 
tion peculiar to the land, sent forth a ringing shout of mingled 
agony and defiance. Like many other efforts of the kind, a com- 
promise resulted. The tunnel is 770 feet in length, cut through 
hard red clay and sandstone, and when daylight once again 
appears, we are at the head and looking down the far-famed 

Echo Canon — Here, too, we could an ancient tale unfold; but 
why? The divine command, "L,et the dead bury the dead," was 
oar first rule laid down in formulating the plan of this book. New 
life! new blood! new everything! — except "new wine in old bot- 
tles." Yet withal there are some "chestnuts" that it is quite 
fashionable to clink— taking the last illustration for a text. 

The law cannot make a person moral, but if immoral, very uncomfortable. 



WONDERFUL ECHO CANON. ll'7 



At the head of Echo the rim or outer edge of the table lands 
seems to give way at once and pitch headlong away, beyond our 
view. The little streams which make out from these table lands, 
each seems to cut its way through the rim and drop out of sight. 

Down glides our train; the grade is steep — no steam required 
now. CasTEE Rock [eight miles] is passed and a long line of 
sandstone blnffs appears upon the right-hand side. These bluffs 
bear the general name of "Castle Rocks," and in places are worn 
and torn away until in the distance they may have the appearance 
of the old feudal castles so often spoken of, but so seldom seen by 
modern tourists. For a long distance these rocks line the canon 
on the north side, their massive jaggy fronts towering from 500 to 
1,000 feet above our way. 

Our engine does not creep along as though mistrustful of its 
powers, but with a snort and roar phmges down the defile, which 
momentarily increases to a gorge, only to become in a short dis- 
tance a grand and awful chasm. 

While sight-seeing Emory [seven miles] is passed, and while the 
south side presents little attractions — only sloping grass-cov- 
ered hillsides — the cliffs to the north seem to rise still higher. 
Solid walls, broken walls, walls of sandstone, walls of granite and 
walls of conglomerate formation, are all represented. One must 
be on the alert to see a moiety of the most beautiful views, and as 
our train never seems to run as fast as when 'we desire a slower 
pace, these glancing views will needs be stored away and treasured 
in the mind for future reference. Steamboat rock — named for a 
noble prow which nearly overhangs our train, is a prominent feat- 
ure, five miles below Emory. Rain, wind and time have combined 
to destroy the massive walls of Echo, but in vain. Centuries have 
come and gone since that mighty convulsion shook the earth to 
its center, when Echo and Weber canons sprung into existence — 
twin children, whose birth was heralded by throes such as the 
earth may never feel again, and still the mighty walls of Echo 
remain, bidding defiance alike to time and his co-laborers — the 
elements; still hangs the delicate fret and frost work from 
the walls; still small cedars, shrubs and delicate vines and flowers 
adorn the countless nooks and crevices; still the pillar, column, 
dome and spire stand boldly forth in all their grand, wild and 
weird beauty to entrance the traveler and fill his mind with won- 
der and awe. 

On goes the engine, whirling us past castle, cathedral, towering 
column and rugged battlement, passing lateral canons which cut 
the walls from crest to base in awful chasms, shooting over oridges 
and flying past and under the overhanging walls, and finallv 
round the canon wall to the northward, within three short spans- 
length of thenoted Pulpit Rock (on the top of which it is said 
Brigham Young preached his first sermon in Utah) and stop at 

EcllO Crty — [Pop., 200; from Omaha, 994 miles; Ogden, 3S miles; Park 
'city, 2S miles; elevation, 5,471 feet].— The town is situated on the eastern 
bank of Weber river, half a mile below the mouth of Echo, in a 
little valley half a mile in width. Beyond the Weber rise the seat- 
ing tree, shrub and g*-ass-covered slopes of the Wasatch mountains, 
nearly 2,000 feet from the river bed; to the east rise cliffs, sheer 1,000 
feet. 

This is not a very progressive place. Excepting a few gardens, 
stock-raising is the only occupation of the people. Some there 



128 



MOUTH OE ECHO CANON. 




PULPIT ROCK — LOOKING EAST. See page I2J. 



are who go fishing but the fine trout are so abundant in all the 
streams, and the home consumption so small, from being sport it 
becomes labor to clean the fish so that industry flags. 



Connections— By rail: The Echo & Park City branch of Union Pacific. 



It's wonderful how brave some people are when they arel/rtr from danger. 
We lhave seen a number of cases where some of this class in the "sixties" on 
leaving the river to cross the plains, fairly yearned to meet an Indian— wanted- 
half a dozen for breakfast, a dozen for dinner, and a score or more for supper. 
Put when the Indian country was reached and danger was imminent, always 
hunted cover, and those of little talk did all the effective fighting. 



COAL AND SILVER. 129 



TO THK 

RICHEST 1IIMN4. CAMP IX UTAH. 



Side Tour, No. 7 — From Kcho City to Coalyieee, Win- 
ship and Park City, via Echo and Park City branch of the 
Union Pacific railway. 

There are two passenger trains a da)- each way, at 7:50 a. in., 
and 7:35 p. in. The direction is south up the Weher river. The 
first station is 

Coalville — [Pop., 1,500; from Echo, five miles; elevation, 5,5*3 feet]. 
It is the seat of Summit county, settled by the Mormons in 1 859, and 
incorporated in 1887. It has a number of churches and schools, 
stores of different kinds, grist-mill, theatre and many neat private 
residences. The Coalville house is the principal hotel. 

The chief industries are coal mining and stock-raising, yet 
every foot of the limited supply of agricultural land along the 
Weber river is utilized, producing bounteously of every seed 
put in the ground. 

Just to the east of the town are located extensive deposits of 
coal, large quantities of which are mined and shipped daily. 



Coalville is on the old Mormon trail from the Missouri river. 
We have noted the route up to Green River City. From that place 
it crosses onto and follows up Black's Fork to Fort Bridger, 
thence close to the north of Aspen mountain, crossing Bear river, 
ten miles east of Fvanston, to Echo canon, down the canon to the 
Weber river, thence via Coalville, Winship and Parley's park to 
Salt Lake City. 

WillSllip — [Pop., 500; from Coalville, seven miles; elevation, 5,856 feet]. 
Is a Mormon village of agriculturists and stock-raisers, situated 
at the junction of Silver creek and Weber river. Wheat, oats, 
hay and all kinds of vegetables are grown for market; also fruit of 
many varieties. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southeast six times a week to Rockport, four 
miles; Pecoa, four miles; Oakley, three miles; and Kamas, five miles. 

The valley of Weber river, which is from a half to a mile in 
in width, is settled, fenced and cultivated, the soil being very 
quick and productive. 

Turning to the right up Silver creek the grade averages 76 feet 
to the mile for 15 miles, to the end of the road. Settlers are 
scattered all along the road wherever there is a patch of land to 
cultivate and water for irrigating it — as water controls the agricul- 
tural situation in this country — with water, big crop ! no water, no 
crop ! 

Ptirk City — [Pop., 3,500; from Winship, 15 miles; .Salt Lake City via 
Ogden, 103 miles; elevation, 7,006 feet]. — Is the principal mining, as well 
as the only Gentile city in Utah. Situated well up against the 
mountains at the head of Silver creek, just at the junction of Em- 
pire, Ontario and Whiteside gulches, and is exclusively a mining 
city, where mines are worked and not "salted" for sale. There 
are two stamp-mills — the Ontario 40, and the Daley of 30 stamps, 
chloridizing; the Crescent mill is working by the "Russell pro- 
cess;" one sampling, and one couceutrating-mill and smelter. 
9 



130 PARLEY'S PARK — WEBER CANON. 

The ore runs silver and lead, with a small per cent, of gold. 

This mining district since its discovery has produced $30,000,- 
000, and the different mining companies have paid in dividends 
$14,000,000. 

Figures Talk ! — The plant of the Ontario mine cost $2,570,- 
000. The company employs over 400 hands. Total out-put up to 
1888, $23,160,000. Paid in dividends, $8,825,000. The Daly Mining 
Co., from 1885 to 1888, extracted $2,100,000, and paid in divi- 
dends, $375,000. 

Many of the business blocks and buildings are of stone and 
brick — substantial structures; churches and schools are numerous 
and well attended, as, be it remembered, the average miner may 
be uneducated and rough, but he is honest and frank, and always 
pays liberally for the education of his children, and the support of 
his church. Stores of various kinds are here, and a bank, as well 
as hotels and newspapers. The Park City is the principal hotel, 
and the Park City Record the paper to subscribe for and read, if 
you want all the news from this the most progressive mining camp 
in the western country. 

Parley Park — in the extreme southern end of which Park 
City and the mines are situated, is one of the most beautiful in 
Utah, and first settled by the Mormons. It is very fertile, produc- 
ing fine crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables. The streams 
are alive with fine mountain trout, and game of many varieties 
inhabit the adjoining mountains. These and the comfortable hotel 
accommodations in the park at convenient points make it one of 
those pleasant places where one loves to linger, regrets to leave, 
and longs to visit again. 

Connections — Mail stage: Southeast six times a week to Heber, 13 miles; 
thence west three times a week to Midway, four miles; thence south to 
Charleston, four miles; and Wellsburgh, seven miles. 

Also a daily stage for Salt Lake City, via Parley Canon. 

Returning to Echo City, we continue our route westward. 

Weber River — Rises in the Wasatch mountains about 70 miles 
south of Echo, and empties into Salt lake just below Ogden. 
The valley above Echo is very fertile and thickly settled, as hereto- 
fore noted. The settlers are all Mormons, and all, except at Coal- 
ville, engaged in agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pur- 
suits; those at Coalville are principally miners, although all the 
available lands in the neighborhood are under cultivation. Every 
acre of the lower Weber of any value is owned and occupied by 
those who are utilizing it to the best of their ability. 

WEBER Canon is one of the remarkable features of the road. 
For 35 miles, excepting now and then a little valley a few miles in 
width, the river rushes foaming along, between two massive moun- 
tain walls. Now the torrent plunges over some mighty rock which 
has fallen from the towering cliff 1,000 feet above; anon, it whirls 
around in frantic struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, thence 
springing forward over a short, smooth rapid, only to repeat the 
plunge again and again, until it breaks forth into the plains, 
whence it glides away toward the lake, as though exhausted with 
its wild journey through the canon. 

Echo or telephone hotels are large rooms divided into small ones by paper or 
muslin partitions, in which "peek-holes" are numerous, and every loud word 
or noise is echoed or telephoned throughout the building. 




Leaving Echo but a short distance, these peculiar, red, yellow 
and gray, conglomerates— called "Witches' Rocks"— stand forth in 
some prominence, on the side of the cliff, to the right. 




One Thousand-Mile Tree— Entering the first narrows of the 
canon the 1,000-mile tree is passed— a thrifty, branching pine- 
bearing on its trunk a sign-board that tells the western-bound 



132 WEBER CANON VIEWS. 

traveler that he has passed over 1,000 miles of railway from Omaha. 
This living milestone of nature's planting has long marked this 
place; long before the hardy Mormon passed down this wild gorge; 
long before the great trans-continental railroad was ever thought 
of, it stood a lonely sentinel, when all around was desolation — 
when the lurking savage and wild beast claimed supremacy, and 
each in turn reposed in the shade of its waving arms. How 
changed the scene! The ceaseless bustle of an active, progressive 
age, the hum of labor, the roar and rush of the passing locomotive, 
has usurped the old quiet, and henceforward the Lone Tree will be, 
not a guide to the gloomy past, but an index of the coming great- 
ness of a regenerated country. 

Just below this tree the cars cross a trestle bridge to the left 
bank of the Weber, thence down but a short distance, before they 
cross over another trestle to the right-hand side, and then, almost 
opposite the bridge, on the side of the mountain to the left, can be 
seen the 

Devii/S Slide, or serrated rocks. This slide is composed of 
two ridges of granite rock, reaching from the river nearly to the 
summit of a sloping, grass-clad mountain. They are from 50 to 
200 feet high, narrow slabs, standing on edge, as though forced 
out of the mountain side. The two ridges run parallel with each 
other — about ten feet apart, the space between being covered with 
grass, wild flowers and climbing vines. {See next page. ) 

Grand Views — Rushing swiftly along past Croydon [nine 
miles] we soon lose sight of these rocks and behold others more 
grand, of different shapes and massive proportions. The mountains 
seem to have been dove-tailed together and then torn rudely asunder, 
leaving the rough promontories and rugged chasms as so many ob- 
stacles to bar out progress; and so they would but for engineering 
skill and Mormon brawn. They in January, 1869, drove tunnels 
through their ribs from side to side and bridged the chasms high 
above the flood; and so we pass as safely through as though these 
obstructions had not been, and come to light again; and then the 
beautiful little "Round valley," so-named, we cross to confront 
another gorge, and then once again another valley — this the larg- 
est of them all, in which is Morgan City — but down on the bills as 

WebCT — [Pop., 1,200; from Echo, 16 miles; Ogden, 24 miles; elevation, 
5,080 feet]. — With barely a dozen exceptions it is strictly a Mormon 
town with a Z. C. M. I. branch and several stores and shops. 
Here irrigation is depended upon to raise all kinds of crops, and 
every acre of agricultural land is utilized to the limit of the water 
supply. Crops of grain and vegetables of all kinds grow to per- 
fection and yield abundantly. Fruit of many varieties as well as 
berries are raised in large quantities. Hay, alfalfa and tame grasses 
also give large yields per acre, and some thousand tons or more 
are baled and shipped from this place, much of which goes east 
along the road for 300 miles. 

Grass grows all the way to the summit of nearly all the mount- 
ains in this vicinity and on them, affording the best of grazing the 
year around — as the winter snow is blown off by the wind from the 
grassy exposures into the gulches, leaving bare usually sufficient 
for all winter needs. 

The same may be said of all the mountain portions of the west- 
ern country at the same altitude. 




Proceeding— PETERSON [ten miles], a side-track, is in the midst of 
the canon, down which whirls our train between towering mount- 
ains into a dark, gloomy gorge, when suddenly the whistle shrieks 
—the echo resounding from crag to crag in thunder tones— as we 
approach and pass through the wild scenery of the 



134 HIS GATE — OGDEN, UTAH. 



Devil's Gate — On rattles our train, through a slash in the 
mountains, anon on a bridge far above the seething whirl of waters, 
where massive frowning rocks rear their crests far up toward the 
black and threatening clouds which hover over this witches' 
cauldron. With bated breath we gaze on this wild scene, and 
vainly try to analyze our feelings, in which awe, wonder and ad- 
miration are blended. We have no time for thought as to how or 
when this mighty work was accomplished, no time nor inclination 
to compare the work of nature with the puny work beneath us, but 
onward with quickened speed, down the right hand bank of the 
stream; on between these massive piles, worn and seamed in their 
ceaseless struggles against the destroying hand of time; on to where 
yon opening of light marks the open country; on past towering 
mountain and toppling rocks, until we catch a view of the broad 
sun-lit plains; and from the last and blackest of the buttresses which 
guard the entrance into Weber, we emerge to light and beauty, to 
catch the first view of the Great Salt lake — to behold broad plains 
and well cultivated fields which stretch their lines of waving green 
and golden shades beyond. 

9 hit all Station — [Pop., 600; from Devil's Gate, five miles; Ogden. six 
miles; elevation, 4,497 feet]. — We have passed through the mountains 
and are fairly in the Great Salt lake basin. In the last 58 miles, 
we have dropped down 2,314 feet. 

This is an agricultural community and all belongs to the Mor- 
mon Church. 

It is a historical fact that near this station, in LSI 12, was the 
scene of the notorious Morrisite massacre. 

From Uintah we follow the river through a country dotted here 
and there with fertile and well tilled farms. But as we are neariug 
the end of the journey over the Union Pacific railway, it becomes 
necessary for all to gather up their valuables against the time when 
the notice will be given to "Change Cars!" 

Ogdeil Station— [Elevation, 4,301 feet]. 

Passengers arriving who desire to visit Salt Lake City 
(distance, 36 miles) will usually find a train in waiting at the depot. 
It will leave as soon as mails, express and baggage can be trans- 
ferred — about 30 minutes. 

Jg^^The overland trains of the Union and Southern arrive on 
the east side of the depot, and those to. depart on the west side. 

1 r'The trains of the Southern are usually made up and wait- 
ing when the trains of the Union arrive. It then usually requires 
about one hour to make all necessary transfers before starting — 
but it's well to see to procuring sleeping car and other tickets, if 
required, and the transfer of your hand baggage and getting located 
as soon as convenient. 

g^lT'The cars of the Utah & Northern branch of the Union 
Pacific system arrive and depart from east side of the depot. 

JPSPT'assengers desirous of stopping over at Ogden can take a 
"buss" for the hotels, or a street car just at the eastern platform of 
the depot. The "Broom" is the principal hotel. 

jgggf^Passengers who have through tickets in sleeping cars will 
occupy the same numbers in the Southern as they had in tin- 
Union, and those who had their baggage checked through need 
give it no attention; but those who only checked to this place — 
to the end of the U. P. road — will need to see that it is re-checked. 



CHANGE CARS. 135 



fi^-The station building — a long wooden structure between a row 
of main tracks — contains, besides a dining ball and luncb counter, a 
hotel and bar-room and the Division Superintendents' offices of both 
the Union and Southern ; also ticket, baggage, express and tele- 
graph offices, together with news stands and sundry other kinds <>( 
business. It's a miserable old rookery, and every few years for the 
last nineteen we have heard of plans being made that would soon 
result in completing, at this place, a grand Union depot. Now 
we are told the ground has been purchased and the foundations 
laid — two years ago — when work stopped and the momentous 
question still is : "When will the new depot be completed?" 

Oiiricii City — [Pop.. 8,500]. — Is the seat of Weber county, situ- 
ated one mile east of the depot, on the Ogden river, at the western 
base of the Wasatch mountains. It is amply provided with all 
needful public buildings, and many fine brick and stone business 
blocks. Stores, shops and small manufactories are here, as well as 
two large flour-mills and an opera house. 

Ogden has a Board of Trade association composed of the prin- 
cipal business men, who are putting forth commendable efforts to 
advertise the business, climate, and tourist attractions of their 
"junction city." 

There are a number of small hotels, but the Broom is the prin- 
cipal hotel in the city, as the Standard and the Argus, daily and 
weekly, are the principal newspapers. 

The waters of the Ogden river are conducted through the streets 
and used in the gardens and fields for irrigating purposes; in con- 
sequence, the city is in the midst of one great flower garden and a 
forest of fruit and shade trees. In the gardens are fruit trees of all 
kinds which bear abundantly, and in the fields are raised immense 
crops of grain, hay and vegetables. 

Ogden cation is one of the attractions in this vicinity. The 
scenery is grand and interesting. In places the granite walls rise 
on each side 1,500 feet, and for a considerable distance not more 
than 150 feet apart. About six miles from Ogden, up in the moun- 
tains behind the town, is a lovely little valley called "the Basin," 
watered by mountain streams and covered with a luxuriant growth 
of grass. 

Six miles northwest of Ogden, near the railroad, is one of the 
most valuable hot sulphur springs that we know of in the western 
country. A variety of bath accommodations and a good hotel are 
at the spring. 

B^^The continuation of our western tour from Ogden will be 
found on page 160. 

ggp^CROFUTT's Tours — No. 2, continues westward, via the 
Central Pacific railroad — to Sacramento, San Francisco, Los 
Angeles, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Ensenada — 
Dower California— with Side Tours to Yosemite valley, Big 
Trees, The Geysers, San Jose, Santa Barbara, Seal Rocks, Monterey, 
Santa Cruz, Coloma — where the first gold discovery was made — to 
Shasta, over the Siskiyous, to Portland and all over the state 
of California. 



You should see the fisheries of the Columbia river. They are immense. 



136 



UTAH TERRITORY— RESOURCES. 




THE I.ATE PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG. 



ITtalt Territory — Called by the Mormons, the "Land of 
Zion." We have already traveled over 100 miles in this territory, 
where strange stories are the gossip and stranger still the state of 
facts, and it may be well to now take a hasty glance at its extent 
and resources. 

Utah extends from the 87th to the 42d parallel of north latitude 
and from the 109th to the 1 14th degree of west longitude, contain- 
ing a superficial area of about 65,000 square miles, with an esti- 
mated population, according to Gov. West, of 210,000 (including 
Indians and Chinese), with an assessed valuation of $46,379,075. 
This area includes large tracts of wild mountainous and barren 
couutrv. At present most of the land under cultivation and the 
meadow lands are along the base of the mountains, around the 
lakes and in the mountain valleys and are very productive when 
irrigated — grains, fruit and vegetables maturing readily and yield- 
ing large returns — the aridity of the climate precluding the grow- 
ing of crops In- any other means. 

Farm Products — Gov. West in his report to the Interior 
department for 1888, estimates "our productions for the season, 



UTAH — RESOURCES. 137 



from farm, garden and orchard" as follows, in bushels: Wheat, 
3,000,000; oats, 1,500,000; barley, 750,000; rye, 50,000; corn, 750,- 
000; plums, 50,000; peaches (a short crop), 150,000; pears, 75-.000; 
apples (surplus), 200,000; Lucerne hay, 500,000 tons; Lucerne seed, 
500,000 pounds; potatoes, 00,000,000 pounds. 

Minerals — The total value of gold, silver, copper and lead 
mined in Utah from 1871 to 1888 was $133,442,310, coin standard. 
The principal mines are in Summit, Beaver, Salt Lake, Tooele and 
Washington counties. Total average output of ore, 150,000 tons a 
year, the greater portion of which is treated at the mills, smelters 
and other works in the territory and the balance shivjped to dis- 
tant markets. 

Coal — The coal-measures in the territory are of enormous 
extent, are all bituminous and of good quality. There is coal in 
every county, but the bulk now mined is in the Weber and Pleasant 
valley districts, which are producing about 220,000 tons annually. 

Iron — This valuable mineral exists in almost unlimited quan- 
tities in Washington, Iron, Summit and Weber counties. 

Salt — "Saved by a pinch of salt" is an ancient chestnut. 
The "pinch" could be very large in Utah, as salt is abundant in 
San Pete and Sevier valleys, can be shoveled up in its crude state 
on the shores of Salt lake and in the southern part of the terri- 
tory is found by the mountains in a remarkably transparent and 
pure state. 

Besides the above, copper, zinc, cinnabar, antimony, brimstone, 
saltpeter, gypsum, plumbago, roofing slate, granite of various tex- 
ture and color; marble, variegated and plain; soda, fire-clay, red 
and white sandstone, limestone and kindred formations exist to an 
almost unlimited extent. 

Live Stock — Cattle, horses and sheep— particularly the latter — 
are raised in large numbers in all parts of the territory. 

Timber — Is not very plentiful at accessible points, being mostly 
in the mountain cations and ravines, far away from the present 
lines of travel. 

FruiT — Of many varieties and in great quantities is raised 
successfully in different parts of the territory. In the southern 
counties are grown all the semi-tropical and many 1 ot the tropical 
fruits, while berries are abundant everywhere. 

Climate — The summers are warm and dry with only an occa- 
sional shower; the winters are mild and open. The fall of snow- 
is light in the valley and heavy in the mountains, the melting of 
which affords ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and valleys. 
The air is very generally pure and clear, fogs and tornadoes are 
unknown, and the "blizzards" are a Dakota and Texas luxury 
never experienced here. 

SETTLEMENT — Utah was first settled by whites in 1H47. On 
the 24th of July, the advance guard of the Mormon emigration, 
numbering 143 men, entered Salt Lake valley; five days later 150 
more men arrived under Capt. Brown, and on July Ml st Great 
Salt Lake City was laid out. 

At that time the country belonged to the Republic of Mexico, 
but by the treat}- of Gaudaloupe Hidalgo, in 1848, it was ceded to 
the United States. 



Crater Lake country should be set aside by Congress as a national park. See 
description in Tours No. 2. 



L38 GREAT SALT LAKE. 



Labor — .Supply and wages. Here we again quote Gov. West: 

"The past year has been an active and busy one throughout the territory. 
Extensive building has been going on in Salt Lake and Ogden cities, while in 
the other cities and towns healthy growth and improvements are marked. 
Labor has been in demand and fully employed, commanding wages as follows: 

Carpenters, per day, $3.50; in strong demand; could employ more. 

Joiners, per day. $3. 50 to $4.50; in strong demand; could employ more. 

Wood working machinists, per day. $3.50; scarce. 

Wood turners, per day, $3.50; scarce. 

-Steam fitters and plumbers, per day, $4.00 to $4.50; scarce. 

Masons and bricklayers, per day, $4.00 to 54-5<>; stiff, fully employed in good 
weather. 

Engineers (stationary), per day, 53.00. 

Stonecutters, per day, £4.00 to $4.50; in good demand. 

Blacksmiths and shoers, in town, per day, S3. 00 to $3.50. 

Blacksmiths and shoers, in camp, $4.00; in good supply, no surplus. 

Plasterers, per day, $3.00 to $3,50; fully employed. 

Slaughterers, per month, $60 to 5o": all employed, n<> surplus. 

Tailors, per week. $15 to $20; scarce. 

Bakers, per month, $45 to $50. 

Miners, per day, $3.50 to $4 00; well employed. 

Laborers, per day, 51.75 to 5j.oo; billy employed. 

Masons' tenders, per day, $2.00; fully employed. 

Farm hands, per month, 530, with board: in good demand. 

Cattle and sheep herders, per month, $30 to $40, with board; in good demand. 

Cigar makers, per week, 520 to 535. 

Painters, per day, S3-' 1 " to|4.oo; frequently scarce." 



We would suggest, however, to those coming to Utah seeking 
employment to bring along a little money, so in case 110 satisfac- 
tory employment is readily found in the valley towns they can be 
able to pay their way into the mining regions. And above all, be 
honest, sober, industrious and mind your ori'ii business and you 
cannot fail of success. 



"All aboard for Salt Lake City!" is now the command. The 
train stands beside the one we arrived upon, and is branded 
"Utah CENTRAL Railway." It is the pioneer local road of 
Utah; May 17th, LSI 19, just one week after the driving of the last 
spike uniting the tracks of the Union and Central Pacific railroads 
at Promontory, ground was broken at Ogden by President Brigham 
Young, assisted by the hy-iu tilliaims of the Mormon Church. 
The road was pushed rapidly to completion, and for many years 
afterwards was accounted to be the best paying railroad ever built. 

Leaving the depot the engineer runs ahead a piece, then backs 
up to half face and stands looking at the Weber river bridge. 
The conductor surveys the vantage of the field and becoming sat- 
isfied the coast is clear, shouts to the engineer, "let-er-go, Bishop!" 
and away we do go over the bridge through a deep cut in the river 
bluff, and whirl around to the left upon the side of a sloping ex- 
panse of prairie rising gradually to the eastward from the waters of 

CiJroal Salt Lake — The mysterious dead sea of America. It 
is now on our right ten miles away; but in the next .*>0 miles our 
road will gradually approach to within half a mile of its briny 
waters. There it is spread out, glittering in the sunlight like a 
field of burnished silver. Mile after mile it stretches away placid 
and motionless, as though no life had ever caused a vibration of 
its currents or given one restless impulse to its briny bosom. 
There are a number of islands in the lake; the largest is Antelope 
(15 miles long and two miles wide), directly in Iront. The smaller 
are Carrington, Egg, Sheep's, Hot and Stansburv. On Antelope 
island are a number of springs of fresh w r ater, and many trees and an 
abundance of shrubs and grass. 

On some of the islands shrubs and grasses grow, but no springs 
of water have been found. 



DEAD SEA OF AMERICA. 130 

Salt lake is 1:2<) miles in length by 45 miles in width, and is not 
known to have any outlet, yet the Jordan, Weber, Ogden and Rear 
rivers empty into it a large volume of water, besides a score or 
more of smaller streams. Some geologists claim that evaporation 
absorbs the vast volume, but it is a noticeable fact — one in the 
writer's memory — and one worthy of serious consideration, that 
since the settlements have been made in the territory and the 
bosom of the earth has been turned by the plow, rendering the 
barren wastes blooming and productive, the waters of the lake 
have risen steadily, and now are over four feet higher than they 
were :20 years ago. Fences which once enclosed fine meadow land 
on the south side of the lake in 1868, are just now' peering above 
the flood, marking its steady encroachment on the fertile bottom 
lands, and pointing to the evident fate of the farms adjoining. 
The grand old mountains, particularly west from Ogden, bear 
unmistakable evidence of the water's presence far up their rocky 
sides. At what period of time the floods reached that altitude, or 
whether those mountains were lifted from their present level of the 
lake by volcanic action and carried these water-lines with them 
are questions no one can answer. [The story related of old Jim 
Bridger, the trapper who lived in this western country since 1820 
until his death ten years ago. may be related here. J For a number 
of years before his death "Jim" lived at Fort Bridger and was 
subjected to a great many "interviews" by the curious. When 
questioned in regard to the changes that had taken place in the 
country since he first visited it, he would say: "Do 5 - ou see that 
mountain there?" (one 500 feet high) "Well, sir, when I first came 
here the place where it stands was a hole in the ground." Now 
comes the query: Do the mountains grow or the waters recede? 

There have been many analyses made of the waters of the 
(ireat Salt lake, all of them agreeing that it is a solution consist- 
ing of chloride of sodium or common salt, or sulphates of silver, 
potash, alum and the chloride of magnesium. The following com- 
parison of solid contents and specific gravity may be of interest: 

Solid contents — per cent. Specific Gravity; 

Great Salt Lake water 13.8 1.107 

Dead Sea water 21.0 1.116 

Ocean water 3.5 1.026 

One of the most recent reliable analyses of the waters of the 
Great Salt lake, by Prof. O. D. Allern, of New Haven, Conn., 
gave the following results: 

Solids— per cent. 

Chloride of sodium 79.11 Sulphate of potassa 3.5S 

Chloride of magnesia 9.95 sulphate of lime 0.57 

Sulphate of soda 6.22 j Excess of chlorine 0.57 

Total 100.00 

Onward goes our train, while we have been making a study 
of the lake, noting the highly cultivated farms on each side and 
viewing the Wasatch mountains on the left, it has rattled along. 
Kaysville, Farmiiigtoii and Cciilreville. 

These are all Mormon agricultural towns embowered in fruit 
trees, as nearly every house in Utah is situated in the midst of an 
orchard or garden. 

These towns are provided with irrigating ditches, with water 
from the mountain reservoirs, running through all the streets and 
over all the grounds. Some of these streams are sufficiently large 
to run saw and flouring-mills, the water first doing duty at the 
mills and then in the fields. 



rr 



140 



VIEW IN SALT LAKE CITY. 



Bo u 11 ti fill 

— Is a pretty lit- 
tle village near 
the station of 
Wood's Cros- 
sing, and like 
all Mormon 
cities, towns and 
hamlets is hid 
away in a pro- 
fusion of foliage. 
The course of 
our road from 
Ogden to Salt 
Lake City is al- 
most due south, 
while the Wa- 
satch mountains 
for 80 miles des- 
cribe a huge 
circle in the 
middle to the 
eastward. The 
lower point of 
this circle we are 
fast approach- 
ing, and will 
reach it in about 
two miles, just 
at the point of 
the mountains 
ahead where the 
steam is rising, 
opposite a large 
building on the 
right — " Beck's 
Hot Spring" 
bath houses. 
Jnst under that 
huge rock boils 
up the spring; 
it's hot, it's very 
hot.' There is 
no failure of hot 
water here the 
j year around — 
the why? we query, particularly as Ensign peak, the "Mount 
of Prophecy, " where the late prophet Brigham Young was wont 
to wrestle with the Lord, rises directly from the spring to an 
altitude of 1,200 feet above the valley. Can he have had anything 
to do with it? 

In thinking over these things we have given the bath houses 
the go-by, as nearly everybody does, and have passed on the right 
Hot Spring lake, where the first view of Salt Lake City appears 
ahead. 




m 1 >on't fool yourself by thinking that you are going west to find fools. 



SALT LAKE CITY — UTAH. 141 



" What Hotel!" you ask? Well, there are a score of them here, 
and all good in proportion to their charges. The principal hotels 
are : Walker, Cullen, Continental, Metropolitan, Cliff, White, 
Valley and Palace. The charges grade downwards from $3 to 
$1.50 per day. 

"Buss" lines — Two of them take passengers to and from the 
depot and hotels for 25 cents each, passenger and baggage. Street 
cars can be found just at the entrance of the depot, that run 
past nearly all the hotels. Fare, five cents. 



Halt L<ilkC City — [Pop., 32,000; elevation, 4,350 feet]- — or "Zion," 
as the city is often called by the Mormon faithful, is one of the 
most beautiful and pleasantly located of cities. It is situated at 
the foot of a spur of the Wasatch mountains, the northern limits 
extending on to the "bench" or upland which unites the plain 
with the mountain. 

The streets are 132 feet wide (including sidewalks 20 feet wide), 
bordered with shade-trees and laid out at right angles. Along each 
side of the street is a clear cold stream of water from the moun- 
tain canons, which, with the numerous shade trees, fruit orchards 
and gardens surrounding every residence, give the city an indescrib- 
able air of coolness, comfort and repose. 

Salt Lake City is the seat of Salt Lake county and the capital 
of the territory, and is nine square miles in extent. It has 21 
wards within its limits, and is the terminus of four railroads. It 
contains some fine business blocks, hotels and private residences. 

The Mormon Church, besides those who officiate at the taber- 
nacle, has a bishop located in every ward of the city, who holds 
ward meetings regularly. The other churches hold services in 
14 places in the city. The Masons have five lodges in the 
city; the Odd Fellows four; G. A. R. one; K. of F. three. A. O. 
U. W. one. There is one opera house, one theater and one 
museum. There are eight halls, four hospitals and three ceme- 
teries. Of sampling and smelting works, seven; woolen-mills, one; 
planiug-mills, seven; flour-mills, five; tanneries, one; foundry and 
machine works; seven; breweries, four, and 22 miscellaneous 
manufactories. 

There are six banks and bankers, 17 hotels, three daily and five 
weekly newspapers. 

Of general and special stores, shops, livery stables, restaurants, 
saloons, etc., the city is well provided. Salt Fake City has an 
energetic Board of Trade of 200 members, water works, an efficient 
fire department, horse railroads, electric light, telephone, etc., 
and, in fact, all the modern improvements of the age, and some 
do say, "a few of the tricks of ye old prophets." And it may be 
some of the citizens have a mote in their eye. 

In the wholesale jobbing line Salt Lake City has several 
establishments that would do credit to any city in the Union, par- 
ticularly the Z. C. M. F, as it is called for short — " Zion's Co- 
operative Mercantile Institution." They own and occupy a build- 
ing built of brick, 318 feet long and 53 feet in width, three stories 
and cellar, all finished throughout in the best manner. It also 
has a number of warehouses built of iron, stone and brick, one of 
which is 195 feet by 25 feet. 

The Chinook language is in common use among all the Indian tribes, as a 
trading language, in the Puget Sound country. 



142 



MORMON TEMPLE — AND TABERNACLE. 




mwmmmt 







This "institution" is 
owned and conducted by 
the most wealthy men 
belonging to the Mormon 
Church. It has branches 
in nearly every Mormon 
city, town and village in 
Utah, and besides its 
wholesale department, 
does an immense retail 
trade. This establishment 
manufactures or deals in 
almost-everything in every 
line or branch of business. 
What the Z. C. M. I have 
not got you need not look 
for in Utah. 

The Temple is usually 
about the first object of 
interest that a traveler 
mormon sign— common in 1870. looks for on arriving in 

Salt Lake City. The building is not yet completed, but work is 
progressing steadily and is now up about 60 feet. The dimensions 
of the foundations are 186 J x 99 feet. The site of the temple is 
in the center of the city on the bench laud, and the eastern half 
of what is known as "Temple Block," — the tabernacle and 
assembly building being on the western half. [See page /#d.) 

The temple building is of white granite from Little Cottonwood 
canon; was commenced February 14, 1853, and will cost when 
completed not less than $10,000,000. 

The Tabernacle is an immense building — the first object one 
beholds on approaching the city. The building is oblong in shape, 
having a length of 250 feet from east to west, by 150 feet in width. 
The roof is supported by 46 columns of cut sandstone, which with 
the spaces between used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the 
wall. From these pillars or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken 
arch, forming the largest self-sustaining roof on the continent, 
with one notable exception, the Grand Union depot, New York. 
The ceiling of the roof is 65 feet above the floor. In one end of 
this egg-shaped building is the organ, the second in size in Amer- 
ica. The tabernacle is used for church purposes as well as other 
large gatherings of the people and will seat 8,000 people. 

The residence of the late President Brigham Young and his 
tomb, the tithing house, printing office and business offices con- 
nected with the church, occupy one entire block, directly east from 
temple block, in a very commanding position. This block and 
also temple block are surrounded by walls of concrete, near five 
feet thick and eight feet high, with large sliding gateways and 
doors — should a moat and drawbridge be added, we would have 
right here the counterpart of one of those feudal castles of "ye 
olden times" — on a small scale. 



Fort Douglas — A military post, established October 26, 1862, 
by Gen. E. P. Connor, 3d Regiment of CaliforniaYolunteer Infantry, 
is situated on the "bench" or sloping upland at the base of moun- 
tains, three miles distant, overlooking the city, and affords a fine 



J 



SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 143 

view of the country to the west, south and northwest. Latitude, 
40 deg. 4(5 min. 2 sec; longitude, 111 deg. 53 miu. 34 sec. 

Col. M. M. Blunt, 16th Infantry, is in command. It is the 
headquarters of the 16th Infantry, and garrisoned by companies B, 
D, E, G, H and I, and by company B, of the 21st Infantry, and 
5th Artillery, light battery D. 

Capitol Grounds— To the legislature of 1888 — a most com- 
manding and beautiful site of 20 acres, situated in the north- 
ern part of Salt Lake City, was tendered to the territory by the city 
upon which to erect capitol buildings. The site overlooks the city 
and valley. The gift was accepted, a board of capitol commission- 
ers appointed, and $25,000 appropriated for the improvement of 
the grounds and for the procuring of plans and specifications of 
the buildings to be erected; the plans and specifications to be sub- 
mitted to the next legislative assembly. 

Exposition — The City of Salt Lake, in a communication made 
to the legislative assembly in 1888, tendered to the territory ten 
acres of ground within the city limits for exposition and fair 
ground purposes. The generous gift was accepted by the territory 
and $20,000 appropriated to erect permanent buildings. The board 
of directors of the fair association, with commendable promptness 
and energy, selected the ground, completed a building, and held 
their first fair in the fall of the same year. 

Real Estate — in Utah, has never had a "boom," and prob- 
ably never will; there can be nothing to make one. The growth 
of the Utah cities has been gradual, and real estate has advanced 
accordingly, and is now held firm. Salt Lake City is chiefly 
supported by its agricultural and stock-raisiug industries and 
the tourist travel. Situated as it is, "between two fires," so 
to speak, with heavy manufacturing establishments east of the 
"Rockies" and on the Pacific coast; with the railroads always 
seeking the "long haul" — there can be little inducement for one 
to establish more manufactories in Utah than will supply home 
demands: But there are two kinds of industries that it will 
pay to engage in. They will create more wealth in Utah and 
Salt Lake City than could be done by transferring all the manu- 
factories of Massachusetts to the valley of Utah. 

These industries are systematic mining, and raising, shipping, 
drying and canning fruit. 

The mines of Utah are many and contain inexhaustible treas- 
ure-houses of wealth, and are only waiting for well directed capital 
and brawny arms to pour forth their millions. 

The valleys of Utah can produce fruit of all kinds fully equal to 
any raised in California and Oregon. Then, allowing the freight 
charges to be the same as from the coast, there is every reason 
to expect a demand in the east for Utah fruit, which will consume 
all that can be raised should the business be pushed to the full 
capacity of the acreage adapted to that purpose in the territory. 

As we have shown in another place, Utah produced for 1888 
of four kinds of fruits — -apples, peaches, pears and plums — 175,000 
bushels. The yield can be extended to a million, and then not 
overstock the markets. 

Newspapers— These mighty levers of civilization are repre- 
sented in Salt Lake City by the Neu 'S, church organ; Tribune, 
strong fl;///-Mornion and the Herald, a kind of — don't know; each 
published daily and weekly. 



144 SALT LAKE CITY — VICINITY. 



The Tribune is the only "Gentile" netvspaper ever started in 
Utah, that proved to be a success, either financially or otherwise, 
and that success is chiefly due to its versatile editor, Judge Good- 
win, who is a writer of rare ability and long experience in the 
western country; always presenting his views plainly and with a 
concise and chemical nicety peculiarly his own. Without his 
interesting pen-labors, the last requiem of the Tribune would 
have been recorded in history long ago, together with scores of 
others who have gone before — keeping the trail hot. 

The Warm Springs, where are located the city baths, are one 
mile north of the city, at the base of the mountains, and can be 
reached by street cars. The baths are patronized to some extent, 
by invalids, who visit them for health, relying on their medicinal 
qualities to remove their ailments. Were they kept more cleanly 
they would deserve to be largely visited by citizens and travelers. 
The following is an analysis of the water, as made by Dr. Charles 
T. Jackson, of Boston: 

Three fluid ounces of the water on evaporation to entire dry- 
ness in a platina capsule gave 8. 25 grains of solid, dry, saline 
matter. 

Carbonate of lime and magnesia 0.240 1.280 

Peroxide of iron 0.040 0.208 

Lime °-545 2-9°7 

Chlorine 3-454 18.421 

Soda 2 - 8 77 I5-348 

Magnesia 0.370 2.073 

Sulphuric acid 0.703 3.748 

8.229 43-9 81 

It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid gas and with 
carbonic acid gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, having 
valuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs. The 
usual temperature is 102 degrees Fahr. 

Jordan River — This stream which borders Salt Lake City 
on the west, is the outlet of Utah Lake, which lies about 40 miles 
south. It empties into the great Salt lake, about 12 miles north- 
west of the city. 

C.arfiELD is an old bathing place on the lake that has in late 
years been charged with new life — but wait ! We are going out 
there. 

Lake Park — Is another resort situated on the east side of Salt 
lake mid-way between Salt Lake City and Ogden. It is a child of 
the D. & R. G. W. railway. 

Climate — Ah, here we are ! Everywhere we go we hear about 
the climate, even at San Diego; but really the climate of Salt Lake 
valley is lovely. We do not own a foot of soil on the face of the 
earth; we have no interest in any city, town or village in the 
whole world; we are a cosmopolitan, yet were we compelled to se- 
lect one place before another to await the running out of the 
sands of life, we should certainly take into consideration this land 
of mothers-in-law. 

The mean temperature is 74 degrees. The air is soft, pure, 
sunny and balmy, conducive to man's physical well-being. One 
authority says: "A climate not surpassed by that of any portion 
of the country, where the rays of the summer sun are tempered by 
the cool breezes from the canons, and the severity of the winter is 
softened by the mountains which shelter the valleys." 

Look out for Crofutt's new book. 




mULTONOMRH FRLLS. 



SEE Page 228. 



PACIFIC NATIONAL BANK, 

TACOMA, W. T. 



CAPITAL, $100,000. SURPLUS, $40,000. 

C. P. Masterson, President. T. B. Wallace, Vice-President. 

L. R. Manning, Cashier. 

Directors :— C. P. Masterson, J. P. Stewart, W. D. Tyler. 

T. B. Wallace, I.. A. Manning. 



Transacts a general banking business. Issues Drafts and buys Exchange 
on all points in United States and foreign countries. Accounts of Banks. Cor- 
porations and Individuals received on favorable terms. Superior Facilities 
in Every Branch. 



A. Kew of ttie many Kclitorial Opinions 
of ttie Tours. 



Mr. Geo. A. Crofutt lias issued a new edition of "Overland 
Tours." It is a 256 page book; it describes every point on 8,000 
miles of travel, and covers the country traversed by the Union 
Pacific, D. & R. G., Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe and Central 
and Southern Pacific and their kindred roads, making a traveler's 
encyclopedia of nearly the whole West. It merges in one volume 
a perfect guide book and a book of travels. If one picks it up for 
information he will find himself forgetting what he was seeking 
for in following through an enchanting story; if he searches for 
something to interest himself with he will be sure to stumble upon 
half a dozen important facts of which he was before ignorant. The 
wonder grows all the time how so much could be condensed in a 
form so compact and pleasing. It contains the field notes of a 
mathematical eye, taking a bird's eye view of half a continent. It 
is a mental topographical map of a country tour times as large as 
that covered by Hayden and Wheeler's surveys. It is a work on 
mining, and railroading and city building ; then, too, it is illus- 
trated with just such pictures as naturally would come when a writer 
was describing rugged nature in all its moods and the kind of men 
that go out, and grasping with the mountain fastnesses subdue 
them, and bring them under dominion. It is the very perfection 
of art in a guide book.- Judge Goodwin in Salt Lake Tribune, 
May 20. 

Geo. A. Crofutt' s latest contribution to that department of 
literature and information in which he has so long been distin- 
tiuguished, is entitled "Crofutt's Overland Tours." * * ;: " * 
This bare statement of the country traversed suggests a varied 
scenery of mountains, and lakes, and rivers, and valleys, and grain 
fields, and orange groves and vineyards that of itself is at once a 
charm and a delight. Any work that presents a written descrip- 
tion and pictured representation of so wide an extent of country 
of so varied attractions must be at once valuable and interesting. 
The book is profusely illustrated, and the illustrations are executed 
with rare skill. The work is of special value to travelers and 
tourists.— Dailv News, Dearer, Col. 



utah side Tours. 145 



Connection— By rail: Utah Central from Ogden to the north and Frisco 
on the south; the Utah & Nevada from thewest, and the Denver & Rio Grande 
Western from both north and south. 



Building — There are two railroads building — The Salt Lake & 
Fort Douglas, and the Salt Lake & Eastern. 

Prospective Railroads — There are quite a number of these: 
from the east the Midland, the Atchison-Topeka, the Missouri 
Pacific and the "Burlington" have all been named, and to the west 
there are a number, among which is the Salt Lake & Los Angeles. 

It is doubtful whether all these projected lines will be built. 
Some will; but, as the old lady remarked, "my first love is good 
enough for me." 



figg"" Mormon Towns — On our tours through Utah, we shall 
pass many Mormon cities, towns and villages — life is too short 
to describe them all — and as the description of one would be 
the same for all, with seldom an expection, a general description 
must do. They are invariably embowered in the trees and located 
on some stream near the base of the mountains where the water 
can be turned into canals and ditches, to be conducted through the 
streets, orchards, gardens and fields for irrigating purposes, as no 
attempt is ever made to raise anything in Utah without irrigation. 
Every residence is in the midst of its fruit orchard and garden. 
Many times an old rusty tumble-down cabin will be surrounded 
by valuable orchards, gardens, vines and flowers, almost hiding it 
from view. Each place has its meeting-house and schools, 
presided over by a bishop, who exercises a general supervision 
over their people's spiritual welfare. At nearly every place is 
located a branch store of the great wholesale house in Salt Lake 
City, the Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution, where all can 
trade and sell their products and get credit when worthy. Saloons 
are few in number, some towns there are none, in others only 
beer is sold. 

With few exceptions the people are all engaged in agriculture, 
horticulture, lumbering and raising cattle, sheep and horses. 

Horses, late years, are the only teams in use on the farms. 

UTAH SIDE TOURS. 



Side Tour So. 8 — From Salt Lake City to Provo, Pay- 
son, Santaquin, Juab, Milford and Frisco — with Detours 
to Little Cottonwood Canon, Tintic and Silver City. 

We take the Utah Central, the same that we come down 
upon from Ogden. It extends south 243 miles, which distance 
will be covered by this tour. There are two passenger trains a day 
to Juab, 105 miles, and one "mixed" train from that place to the 
end of the road at Frisco, 130 miles further. 

We take the morning train at 7:20 and proceed southward, 
through the suburbs of the city, passing the Morgan smelter in 
six miles and the Francklyn and Germania within the next 
three miles. These smelting works are running night and day, 
turning out an immense amount of wealth in bullion bars. 

Garden Spot — We are now in the midst of Jordan valley, the 
garden spot of Utah. Here is the largest, finest and most pro- 
ductive valley in the territory. 



14'i DETOUR — LITTLE COTTdNWiioi) CANON. 



The country here shows what irrigation is doing for it; there 
can be no finer lands and crops than are here found. In every 
direction the land is covered with a labyrinth of canals and ditches, 
conducting the essence of life to all vegetation beneath them, and 
literally causing the land to flow with "milk and honey." 

Billgliaill Jlim'liOIl — [From Salt Lake City, r2 miles]. — Two 
branch lines of the D. & R. G. Western lead off from this junc- 
tion, one to the east, the other to the west. The branch for the 
west crosses the Jordan river and runs directly for the Oquirrh 
range of mountains at Bingham canon, just at the mouth of which 
is situated Bingham City, with a mining population of about 2,000. 

The branch for the east makes directly for the mountains and 
turns up Little Cottonwood Canon eight and a half miles to 
Wasatch, the end of the steam road, from which a tram road 
of three-foot gauge, operated by broad gauge mules, extends on 
up to AlTa— [seven and a half miles], a noted mining town, where 
is located the once famous Little Emma mine. For a day's rue in 
summer, from Salt Lake City, there is no trip that can be made 
affording as many and varied objects of interest as one to Alta. 
When we last visited Alta, in 1S74, it was a "booming" business 
town, but litigation connected with the leading mines in the 
vicinity, has tended to paralyze all business enterprises. Hence, 
in a short detour up Little Cottonwood we speak chiefly of its 
scenic attractions. 

First Detour— Leaving the junction our train turns to the 
east directly for the Wasatch mountains, leaving the old Flagstaff 
smelting works to the left, just above the station. The grade is 
heavy, the soil is stony and covered more or less with sage-brush 
and traversed by irrigating ditches conveying the water to a more 
productive and less stony soil below. 

Magnificent Landscape— Nearing the mountains, about six 
miles from the junction, we come to a deep gorge on the left, 
through which Little Cottonwood creek has worn its way to the 
valley. From this point we bear away to the southward around 
a low butte, then turn again to the east and northward and run 
along on an elevated plateau where a most beautiful view can be 
had. On the west, the Jordan valley in all its magnificent shades 
of o-reen and gold is at our feet, with the brown old mountains 
bordering the horizon in the distance. To the north, 1"» miles 
away over as beautiful a succession of little streams, well culti- 
vated fields, white cottages, orchards and gardens as are to be 
found within the same number of miles in America sleeps "Zion" — 
in full view, embowered in green, with the dome of the monster 
Tabernacle glistening like some half-obscured "silver moon" sink- 
ing at the mountain base; while far beyond and more to the west- 
ward lies the Great Salt lake — a mysterious problem. Away to 
the south is Utah lake, looking like one large sheet of burnished 
silver, surrounded by a net-work of green and gold, while to the 
east looms up towering granite walls cleft from summit to base, 
forming a narrow gorge only sufficiently wide to allow our little 
road to be built beside a little rippling creek of crystal water. 

Rolling along our train rounds the head or a ravine, through 
a deep cut, passes the old Davenport smelting works 011 the left, 
enters the mouth of the canon between great walls of granite, 
crosses and recrosses the little creek, and soon stops at 



LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANON, UTAH. 147 

Wasatch — The end of the steam road, eight and a half miles 
from the junction. This is a small station with post office, store 
and a few dwellings, containing a population of about 100, most of 
whom are engaged in the stone quarries near the station. 

At Wasatch all the granite is got out and shaped for the tem- 
ple in Salt Lake City. The stone is the best yet discovered in the 
territory, being of close, fine grain, of light gray color, and of 
beautiful bird's-eye appearance. The granite on the south side ap- 
pears much darker than that on the north side of the canon. 

From almost every nook and crevice of these mountain cliffs — 
from the station away up the canon — grow small pines, cedars, 
ferns, and mosses, which, in connection with the gray walls, snow- 
capped mountains, glistening waterfalls, pure air and golden sun, 
presents a picture of rare beauty. 

Just to the east of the station on the left, away up on a pro- 
jecting cliff 1,000 feet above the little creek, stands a granite col- 
umn which measures 60 feet in height from the pedestal-like 
cliff on which it stands. On each side of this column and reced- 
ing from its base is a little conservatory park, filled with nature's 
evergreens and surrounded and protected on three sides and on 
top with cliffs and rocks and towering pines. Finding that this 
granite column was nameless, we named it "Humphry's Park," in 
honor of an old friend, once in charge of this railroad. 

At Wasatch passengers "change cars," taking those of about 
the size of ordinary hand-car, fitted up with seats that will -accom- 
modate about nine persons besides the knight of the whip, who 
chirrups the "broad gauge mules." 

About a half-mile above the station we enter the snow sheds, 
which will continue for nearly seven miles to Ai/TA, at the head of 
Little Cottonwood canon. The end of the tram is on the side of 
the mountain about 200 feet above the town of Alta and about 
1,000 feet below the mouth of the celebrated Little Emma Mink 
on the slope of the mountain; and, by the way, on the visit above 
referred to, we saw a very novel contrivance being used by the 
Emma Co. The snow was several feet deep and the ore was 
being hauled down to the depot in drags. The drags consisted of 
a green ox hide. The ore is first sewed up in sacks of 100 pounds 
each, then placed on the hide which has loops around the edge, 
and when 15 of these sacks are in position a rope is run through, 
the loops in the hide the edges drawn close together, then a mule 
is hitched to the head portion of the hide— with the hair outwards 
— and a brake to the tail. The brake is of iron, shaped like a 
horse-shoe, with teeth that drag through the snow, holding back. 

In coming down the hill the driver stands on the hide, but 
when it becomes necessary on account of heavy grade to "down 
brakes,"' the driver changes his position and stands on the horse- 
shoe instead of the hide. 

Snow Sheds — As stated above, the snow sheds are seven miles 
in length and are built in various styles of architecture, more for 
business than beauty, the style being adapted according to circum- 
stances. However, they are in all places constructed of heavy 
materials— rock, round or sawed timber and built in the most sub- 
stantial manner. In one place they are in the shape of a letter A, 
sharped-peaked; in another nearly upright on each side, one 
side higher than the other with a sloping roof. Again the lower- 



1-18 DOWN JORDAN VALLEY. 



hill side is built with a little slope toward the up-hill side and long 
heavy timbers from the top of these uprights, slope up the moun- 
tain sides resting on a solid foundation, leveled to a uniform grade 
for that purpose. Where the latter plan has been adopted there is 
danger from snowslides which are more likely to occur, in fact 
have occurred, a number of times since the sheds were constructed 
and each time the snow, rocks and trees from the side of the 
mountain rushed over the sheds into the canon below without 
causing any damages to the shed or road. 

The principal mines near Alta are the Emma, Flagstaff, Grizzly, 
Nabob, Kate Hays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie and Prince of 
Wales. Besides these are over 1,800 others located within five miles. 

Several of these mines are being worked, a few are in litigation 
and idle, the balance are controlled by " Micawbers." 

To the north over the mountain, two miles, is Big Cottonwood 
canon and creek; beyond, five miles, Park City; to the south three 
miles, is the Miller mine, at the head of American fork; three 
miles east by trail, is Crystal lake, a beautiful sheet of water, fine 
picnic grounds, the angler's paradise. 

Big Cottonwood Canon — Is also a very attractive mineral 
and scenic locality, as are man}' other canons in the Wasatch range 
convenient to reach from Salt Lake City in half a day's run. 

Returning to the junction, it is one mile to 

Sandy— [Pop., 500; from Salt Lake City, 13 miles]. — Here are to be 
seen immense quantities of ore — ore in sacks, ore loose, by the car 
load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, with a train unloading on 
one side and another loading on the other; in fact this — before 
Park City — was the greatest shipping, smelting and sampling point 
in all Utah. 

At Sandy are three sampling and two smelting works and a 
number of stores. 

Sampling — Is testing such ores as are presented for that pur- 
pose in quantities sufficient to enable the sampling company to 
ascertain its value and to give certificates accordingly; the ore is 
then bought by the smelters at certificate ratings. 

"Peanuts" — There are no regular news agents or "peanut 
boys" on the "Central." In their stead we find the train brake- 
man; in one case, 240 pounds of him, and the Chesterfield grace 
with which he approached, "apples, peanuts," etc., is truly mar- 
velous—hands as delicate as the "flippers" of a sea lion, and a 
voice — O! Le-Sook.' 

Draper-[p op ., 750; from sandy, five miles].— Agriculture and horti- 
culture are the chief industries of this people, and also those of 
Hkkkamon, a little hamlet to the left beside the mountains. The 
landscape views from this place in every direction are very fine. . 

Leaving Draper our course is east, and after crossing South 
Willow creek turns more to the south and finally to the west, 
keeping around the foot of the mountains, which here make a full 
half-circle. In the distance around there are many cuts and some 
hard work, and we queried why the road was built around when 
the work was so heavy and the distance much further than across, 
where there was very little work to be done? In answer we were 
told that President Brigham Young laid out the road around the 



SALT LAKE & WESTERN BRANCH. 149 

side of the mountain by revelation. If that is a fact and the 
Lord was really a partner of Brigham in the railroad business, we 
query what was the firm-name? Which was the senior member? 
What was the rating of the firm? Was the firm dissolved by the 
death of Brigham? Bradstreet and Dun are both silent on the subject. 

The lower point of the great curve is called the "Point of the 
Mountain." At the point where the railroad is built around, the 
track is about 300 feet above a little park of a valley to the west, 
in which is located a hot spring, marked by a brown, burned patch 
of land and rising steam. 

As our train curves around this point a most charming view 
can be had; one of they?;/ est on the road. The valley is narrow; 
to the northward the view is unobstructed for 50 miles; to the south 
rests Utah lake, a gem in rich setting in the great lower basin. 

Passing through numerous cuts and around the point the train 
curves again to the eastward, and starts again on another grand 
curve around the rim of the basin in which are located a round score 
of hamlets and Utah lake in plain view. 

Nearly opposite the "Point of the Mountain" away to the west- 
ward is a low divide in the Oquirrh range, over which a branch 
road leads to Tintic and Silver City, of which more anon. 

Lelli Junction— [From Salt Lake City, 29 miles].— Is simply a junc- 
tion station from which trains arrive and depart over the Salt 
Lake & Western, a branch of the Union Pacific Railway Co. 

Detour Second. — There is only one train each way a day over 
the Salt Lake & Western, and that is a "mixed" train. We will take 
a run to the end of the track, 53 miles distant. Turning west from 
the station our train crosses the track of the D. & R. G. W. and 
the Jordan river in the first mile, and gradually climbs a low divide 
of the western mountains and descends into Cedar valley. On the 
route to the summit of this divide some magnificent landscape 
views are to be had, particularly of Utah lake and the beautiful 
valley beyond, half encircling it, backed still further by the lofty 
range of the Wasatch mountains; as a study for an artist it is un- 
equalled in any land. Where is Mr. Bierstadt? 

Cedar Fort — station — Is 15 miles west from Lehi Junction in 
about the center of Cedar valley and on the old California emigrant 
wagon road — a road made historic by the Mountain Meadow 
massacre. 

Cedar Fort— town — Is situated to the northwest from the 
station about three miles, close in beside and on the slope of the 
mountains, and contains a population of about 150. 

Fairfield — on the site of old Camp Floyd, is two miles south 
from the station. Both Cedar Fort (town) and Fairfield are marked 
by groves of trees and cultivated fields, but for the want of water 
for irrigation but a small portion of valley can be made produc- 
tive. Henceforth by this route stock-raising and mining are the 
only occupations of the people. 

Climbing up onto another divide called Five Mile Pass, we 
descend into Rush valley, but no cultivated land appears — all 
stock-raising; sheep principally. The town of Stockton is situated 
in the northern end of the valley, also Rush lake. 

The country now is very broken with cedars and cedar knolls 
on all sides. 



150 DETOUR — AMERICAN FORK CANON. 

Bolter *n ill ill il [s reached 29 miles from Cedar Fort, from 
which our train descends into Tintic valley, through the cedars and 
pine-clad ridges, five miles to 

■ronton — the junction of the Silver City and Tintic branches. 
This station is the shipping point for Eureka, a progressive 
mining-town situated five miles to the northeast in a canon of the 
mountains, where are located a number of valuable silver mines. 
The town contains a population of about 600. 

Stages connect with all trains. 

Tintic — Is four miles south from Ironton, in almost the cen- 
ter of the valley. There are few settlers in the vicinity, and those 
are engaged in mining and stock-raising. 

The soil of Tintic valley is rich and productive, but without 
water for irrigation, hence no crops. 



Silver City — [Pop., 50]. — Is situated four miles east from Iron- 
ton, away up on the side of the mountain, reached by our train 
over a zig-zag road around the cedar and sage-brush knolls. In a 
gulch one mile to the north of the town is located the Mammoth 
mine, from which a large amount of ore is mined daily and shipped 
to the smelters in Salt lake valley. The town contains one store, 
two saloons, one very tall liberty pole, and, in the hour of our 
stay, one man and two dog fights. See preponderance of saloons! 

Returning to Lehi Junction we start again for the south. 

L<elli — [Pop., 4,100; from Lehi Junction, two miles].--Coutains, besides 
the usual number of stores, etc., one flour-mill and an opera house, 
capable of seating 900 persons. The city is embowered in fruit 
trees, and all the land is under a high state of cultivation. Or- 
chards of fruit are on all sides. The Lehi is the principal hotel. 

Lehi is situated on Utah lake and Dry Canon creek. There is 
no richer or more productive soil; everything grows to perfection, 
and in great abundance. The place is a typical Mormon town. 

American Fork — [Pop., 4,400; fromEehi, three miles]. — Is called 
the "gem" of the Mormon towns. It has all the characteristics 
of the most attractive Mormon settlements — fruit orchards, broad 
streets bordered by rippling brooks, cozy homes, and apparently a 
happy and contented people. The town is situated on Deer creek, 
a rushing stream, which comes down the American Fork canon. 
We should! we will! — it shall be called. 

Detour Third. — Stimulated by a mining "boom" at the head 
of Deer creek in 1872, a company constructed a narrow gauge 
railroad up the American Fork canon 12 miles. Eight years after, 
the "boom" having in the meantime subsided and the mines 
"played out," the rails were taken up and the line abandoned. 

But carriages are to be had at the town of American Fork for a 
trip up the canon, at reasonable charges, and in some respects they 
are far preferable to the cars. 

Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly 
to the east, and follows up Deer creek, through a general assort- 
ment of sage-brush, sand and boulders, for six miles to the mouth 
of the canon. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had 
of Mt. Aspinwall, rising from the lower range of the Wasatch to 
an altitude of 11,011 feet. 

From the mouth of the cation about two miles north is the 
little village of Alpine, containing about 250 agriculturists. 



THE DEVIL IN UTAH. 151 



Entering the canon the passag : is quite narrow between the 
towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks sheer 600 feet in 
height, and leaving less than 100 feet between, through which the 
road is built, and a sparkling stream conies tumbling down, each 
crowding the other. The ascent in places is over 300 feet to the 
mile, and while we are rapidly climbing, the canon walls seem to be 
much more rapidly rising, and at a listance of one, two and three 
miles gain an additional 500 feet to the mile, until in places the 
peaks are fully 2,500 feet above the creek and road. 

In places these cliff walls are pillared and castelated granite; in 
others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, in places seamed as 
though built up from the bed of the canon by successive layers, 
some as thin as a knife-blade, then varying to a foot or more; then 
again the rocks have the appearance of iron slag or very dark lava 
suddenly cooled, presenting to the observer every conceivable 
angle and many fantastic shapes, affording views and rapid 
changes, kaleidoscopic in the extreme. Imagine then, this canon 
with its pillars, ampitheaters, grottos, and its wild crags, peaks 
and needle-pointed rocks towering far above our road, overhang- 
ing it in places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges 
near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green, 
the pine, fir and cedar trees and shrubs growing in all the glens, 
nooks and gulches and away up on the summit; then countless 
mosses and ferns clinging to each crevice and seam where a root 
will hold, together with the millions of flowers — in season — of 
every hue; where the sun's rays are sifted through countless 
objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below with 
its miniature cascades and eddies. We say imagine all these things, 
and then yon will onl}' have a faint outline of the wild and roman- 
tic, picturesque and glorious American Fork canon. 

Proceeding on up — up around sharp crags under the very over- 
hanging mountains — we pass "Lion Rock" on the right, and 
"Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round 
aperture, through which the sky beyond can be plainly seen; this 
hole is called the "Devil's Eye." About three miles from the 
mouth of the canon on the left, is "Hanging Rock;" close above 
on the same side, is a very large spring, and almost immediately 
opposite, the " Devil's Sled-runner, " an inverted vein of rock in 
the side of the perpendicular cliff resembling a huge sled-runner. 
On our first visit to this locality, seeing a Mormon boy fishing we 
asked him the name of this peculiar rock formation, and he 
answered quickly, " the Devil's v Sled-runner. " Now, in our Tours 
in Utah thus far, we have seen the "Devil's Peak" and his 
"slide," and his "rocks," and his "station," and his "gate," 
and his "hole" and his "eye," and now we have his "sled-run- 
ner." His trail is getting pretty hot, maybe we will overtake him 
yet. But we query zuhy the devil, the devil is thought to play the 
devil so much in Utah. Can it be that he is astride his " sled-run- 
ner" on the top of his "peak," loaded with "rocks" with his 
"eye" on his " station, " watching that none "slide" out of his 
"gate" without getting in his "hole?" 

In conclusion we would say there are many other attractions — 
scenic, hunting, fishing, etc., along the canon and up Deer creek 
to its head in the high Wasatch mountains that will repay a visit. 
Thus far the views and ride have been most grand and delightful, 
beyond the powers of man with his gray goose quill to portrav, and 



L52 GRAND SCENERY — PROVO. 

we say to you, make the tour of the American Fork, and our word 
for it, it will live in pleasant memory while the sun of life descends 
upon a ripe old age. 

Gigantic Amphitheatre — Looking to the eastward and south- 
ward from the town of American Fork, a gigantic amphitheatre 
is presented; the mountains rise sheer 2,000 feet above the valley, 
in one immense semi-circle, marked and seamed and showing 
water-lines, with benches and alcoves, and orchestra boxes, all in- 
terspersed with perpetual Christmas trees, and maybe with God's 
celestial artillery playing around the summit of the gray old crags, 
which together present a scene of marvelous beauty and 
grandeur. 

Over all to the southward, 50 miles away, rises Mt. Nebo to an 
altitude of 11,992 feet. 

Plea§ailt Grove — [From American Forks, three miles]. — Is very 
appropriately named. It is situated close beside the moun- 
tain, where orchards of fine fruit are very numerous, bending the 
branches of the trees to the ground where not supported artifici- 
ally. It is situated on Battle creek, so named from a fight the 
early settlers had here with Ute Indians. 

Passing Lake View, another pretty little hamlet, on our 
11 -mile tour around the arc of the basin, we reach the third city 
in size in Utah, 

Provo — [Pop., 4,240; from Salt Lake City, 45 miles; elevation, 4,517 feet]. 
Is the seat of Utah county. Was settled in 1849, and is an incor- 
porated city, with all the requisit municipal officers. It is situ- 
ated just below the mouth of Provo canon on the east bank of 
Utah lake. The court house and public buildings of the city are 
very good, and all kinds of business are represented here. The 
principal manufactories are the Provo woolen-mills, three flour 
and three saw-mills, an opera house, which cost $30,000. Provo 
has its Chamber of Commerce and two weekly papers, the Ameri- 
can and the Enquirer. The principal hotels are the American, 
Central, Roberts and Excelsior. 

The territorial insane asylum is located here and cost S12-">, 000. 
It provides accommodations for 90 patients. 

Provo river, which is formed by numerous small streams to the 
eastward, affords the best water-power of any stream in Utah. 

The woolen-mill is a noted feature of the city; the buildings 
number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost com- 
plete ready for business $210,000. 

The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Meth- 
odists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brigham Young 
academy is located here, which was amply endowed by President 
Brigham Young some years before his death. 

Provo is not a bustling, "booming" city, and the traveler will 
see very few of the citizetis around the depot — they have no time 
to idle away. Excepting those engaged in the mills above re- 
ferred to the citizens are all farmers, fruit growers, gardeners, or 
engaged in raising cattle and sheep. Many of the large herds of 
sheep in Utah and Wyoming are owned by citizens of this city. 

Connections— Besides the "Central," Provo is connected by rail north and 
eastward, by the Denver & Rio Grande Western, and stage to Provo Valley, 20 
miles eastward. 



FISH, FROGS — MORMON TOWNS. 153 



Fish and Frogs — Five miles north of Provo, in Provo canon, 
is located a chain of artificial ponds three of which are completed 
and stocked with 500,000 mountain trout, and one more pond 
building which will soon be completed, aggregating 15 acres, 
The enterprise was commenced in 1SS7, and is owned by T. T. 
Cornforth, of Denver, Col. The fish increased three-fold the first 
season and are thriving finely. A hatchery is building, and an 
artesian well is being bored to supplement the waters of the Provo 
river, and springs that now furnish water for the ponds. 

A pond specially designed for raising frogs is among the im- 
provements contemplated for 1889. 

A visit to these trout ponds would be one quite interesting, if 
not profitable, to make. 

Leaving Provo we continue our swing around the circle, through 
hay meadows and marshes alive with water-fowl, five miles to 

Sprillgvillc — [Pop., 2,700]. — This place was named after a warm 
spring which flows from Hobble canon, above the town. Tbe 
water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring-mill, whereby 
the mill is enabled to run all seasons of the year. A woolen factory 
is also located here and the usual surroundings of a Mormon town. 
Hobble creek canon on the east was so named by the Mormon 
emigrants who visited it in 1847, from finding a pair of old Spanish 
hobbles. From here the direction of our route is to the southwest. 

Connections — By rail: Besides the "Central,'' with the D. & R. G. Western, 
for north and east. 

Spanish Fork— [Pop., 2,100]. — Is another settlement five miles 
further to the south and east of our road, on Spanish Fork river 
embowered in foliage, fruit trees and vines. The people like those 
of Springville are mostly engaged in agricultural and pastoral 
pursuits. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the 
citizens; on the table-lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is 
made to some extent. All kinds of grain, potatoes, corn, vegeta- 
bles, etc., thrive. 

Connections — By rail: Besides the "Central," with the D. & R. G. Western 
and mail hack south to Salem, three and a half miles, six times a week. 



I I all Lake — which we have more than half encircled in our 
zig-zag tour, is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and six miles 
wide; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble, 
Salt and Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jordan river, 
which runs north and empties into Great Salt lake. Utah lake 
abounds in trout, mullet and chubs, and in the marshes along its 
shores, water fowl in great numbers. 



Paj'SOII — [Pop,, 2,200; from Spanish Fork, eight miles; Salt Lake City, 

66 miles. — Is an incorporated town situated one and a half miles to 

the left of the road at the base of the mountains. Besides the usual 

stores, etc., it has an opera house seating 800. The Eureka is the 

principal hotel. 

The people appear to be well-to-do, and do not trouble them- 
selves much about the great problem, "Does the Hon. Mr. Peacock 
eat with his knife, fork or fingers?" They raise fruit, live-stock 
and all kinds of farm produce, and are quite independent. Some 
ore is hauled from the mountains to the southward, to this station, 
for shipment north. 

"Round-ups'' to be published soon, in which the old man rounds up every 
body and every thing in the west. 



1~>4 OVERLOOKED BY MT. NEBO. 

Spring Lake Villa — Three miles from Payson, nestling close 
in beside the mountain, and a little lakelet of similar name, is 
noted for its fruit of various kinds, where is located an extensive 
canning establishment. 

Proceeding from Payson station, the valley gradually narrows 
and is nearly crowded out by the mountains and rim of the basin at 

Saiilaquiii — [Pop., 2,000]. — Situated to the left beside the moun- 
tain and is the last settlement in Salt lake basin. Before the con- 
struction of the railroad to Silver City and Tintic, this station was 
the nearest point to the railroad from those places. 



Connections — Mail hack: West three times a week to Goshun, seven miles. 

From Santaquin our course is more to the southward, passing 
through a rough and broken country over the rim of the basin and 
down into Juab valley. There are a great many deep springs in 
this valley. A short distance after passing York (four miles from 
Santaquin i, to the right is a hot spring in which were found the 
bodies of the Aiken party, who were murdered there in 1857. 
Twelve miles from Santaquin brings us to 

Mona — A small hamlet of about 400 settlers, situated at the 
immediate western base of Mt. Nebo (altitude, 11,992 feet), the side 
of which is marked from the summit down by a pathway of slide 
sand, gray in color. 

\cplli — [Pop., 2,500]. — Is the seat of Juab county, situated on 
San Pete river close to the southwestern base of Mt. Nebo. Besides 
the usual complement of stores, etc., it has a flour-mill, a woolen 
factory, an opera house, the Union hotel and the Ensign, a 
weekly newspaper. 

Connections — By rail: The San Pete Valley (narrow gauge) east and 
southward, connecting with all regular trains on the "Central" for Fountain 
Grken, 15 miles; Maroni, ten miles; and Chester four and a half miles; total, 
29 1 / 2 miles. 

From Maroni, daily mail stages run eastward to Mt. Pleasant, eight miles; 
thence north to Fairview, seven miles. 

From Maroni, southeast to Spring City (daily), seven miles. 

From Maroni, southwest to Wales, five miles, three times a week. 

From Chester, south daily, mail stages to Ephraim, seven miles; Manti, 
seven miles; Sterling, six miles; thence southwest to Gunnison, eight miles; 
thence south to Salina, 15 miles; Sigurd, ii miles;IRiCHFiELD, ten miles; Elsi- 
nore, seven miles; Monroe, five miles; thence three times a week to Marys- 
ville, 15 miles; Panguitch, 52 miles. 

From Sterling, south three times a week, to Mayfield, six miles. 

From Gunnison, north three times a week, to Fayette, six miles; thence west 
to Dover, three miles. 

The Juab valley commences near York, averages about three 
miles in width and is 36 miles in length; cultivated where water 
can be had for irrigation. But the settlers in this section of coun- 
try rely principally on stock-raising. Some are miners, working 
around in the adjoining mountains. 

JllSlb — [From Nephi, 14 miles; Salt Lake City, 105 miles]. — Situated in 
the lower portion of Juab valley at the end of the first division of 
the road, and a meal station ; a store and a score of buildings in 
sight comprises the place. There are few settlers in this vicinity. 
Bishop Elmer Taylor keeps the hotel and meal station. 

Lkvan — Is a small hamlet situated close in beside the moun- 
tains, about midway between Nephi and Juab; reached by daily 
mail hack from Juab. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southwest six times a week to Scipio, 23 miles; 
HOLDEN, 1 4 miles; Fillmore, ten miles: Meadow, eight miles ; and KanoSH, 

six miles. 



MILFORD — FRISCO. 155 

A Word to thk Tourist — There is little of interest in this 
immediate section of country and beyond, and as the train from 
this place runs to the end of the road at Frisco all the way in the 
night, it is a fine opportunity for one to exercise any romantic 
ideas and imagery, and never fear that the reality will be any 
worse than the country traversed. We might stop and return from 
here, but as there are others beside the tourist who may be inter- 
ested and willing to follow our trail in the night, over which we 
have ridden in the day time, we proceed rapidly. 

Leaving Juab the route is to the southwest, then west, curving 
to the northwest, and then again curves to the southwest and 
keeps that general direction to the end of the road. 

Following down Chicken creek and around some rugged buttes, 
five miles, brings our train onto the banks of the Sevier river, 
where the bluffs come close together forming a canon gorge, just 
room enough for our road and the stream between. 



The Sevier River is a crooked, alkaline, muddy and slug- 
gish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless 
country, poorly adapted for a sheep range, although at LEming- 
Ton, 25 miles from Juab, and Riverside, 18 miles further, a few 
settlers are to be seen cultivating the land. The land is product- 
ive, with good water for irrigation, but the difficulty is to get a 
supply of good water. 

Oasis — Formerly Desert, is 52 miles from Juab, situated a few 
miles east of the Sevier river, which is here dammed for irrigating 
purposes. 

Leaving Oasis we pass over a broad level stretch of desert 
country, traversed by a great number of irrigating ditches from 
the dam aforesaid, but the waters are so strong with alkali and the 
soil so impregnated with it, that the aforesaid wildnerness fails to 
blossom, except with sage and grease-wood shrubs. 

The road crosses the edge of Sevier lake (on a raised track), the 
saline deposits of which are very strong. 

The scenery along this road, below the Sevier canon, is not 
very striking, unless one is very anxious to be struck. 

Milfortl — [Pop., 300; from Oasis, 69 miles; Salt Lake City, 226 miles; 
Frisco, 17 miles]. — Is situated on Beaver river surrounded by settlers 
and some well cultivated and productive farms. Here are located 
one quartz-mill and one smelting furnace. 

CONNECTiONS-Mail stage: .Southeast daily to Minersville, 15 miles; thence 
eastward to Beaver, 12 miles; thence southward to Panguitch, 50 miles; 
Hillsdale, ii miles; Asays, 14 miles; Ranch, 20 miles; GLENDALE.ten miles; 
Order ville, four miles; McCarmel, four miles; and Kanab, 20 miles. 

From Minersville south daily, Cedar City, 40 miles; Kanarraville, 14 
miles; Silver Reef, 22 miles; Washington, 15 miles; and St. George, six 
miles. 

From Cedar City northeast daily, to Parowan, 21 miles; and Paragonah, 
four miles. 

From Silver Reef east daily, to Toguerville, five miles; Virgin City, 
eight miles, and Rockville, five miles. 

From Kanarraville southwest, three times a week to New Harmony, nine 
miles; from thence west, twice a week to Pinto, 16 miles; Hebron, 18 miles, 
and Pan ac a, Nev., 55 miles. 

From Milford southwest, three times a week to Pioche, Nev., no miles. 



Leaving Milford our direction is to the northwest over a heavy 
grade and a broad sage-brush plain, to the end of the road at 

FriSCO — [Pop., 250; from Milford, 17 imiles ; Salt Lake City, 243 miles]. 
Here is located the once famous Horn Silver Mine for which an 
English syndicate paid $10,000,000. For many years the property 



156 THKY ALL GO THERE. 



paid handsome dividends, when for reasons unknown work was 
suspended. In the "booming" days of Frisco the place contained 
over 2,500 population and loaded whole trains with ore daily for 
shipment to the smelting works at Milford and Francklyn. For 
many years the Horn Silver was counted the richest mine in the 
western country and some mining men claim now, that by proper 
management, it can be made to yield an immense revenue. 

The ores of the Horn Silver are galena, and said to run from $15 
to |1,500 per ton of silver and from 20 to 40 per cent, of lead. 

There are a number of other mines near Frisco that are said to 
be very rich and that will be heard from at an early day. 



Connections — Mail hack: Northwest, twice a week to Bttr'bank, 47 miles, 
and Taylor, Nev., 63 miles. 

Bidding farewell to southern Utah, we return to Salt Lake City. 



Side Tour No. 9 — From Salt Lake City to Garfield 
Beach, Tooele and Stockton. 

For this tour we take the trains on the Utah & Nevada, a 
branch of the Union Pacific system. They leave from the depot, 
situated on the corner of 1st South and 4th west Temple streets. 

This is a narrow gauge road commenced in 1S74 and completed 
in 1877, to within two miles of Stockton, 37-> miles from Salt Lake 
City. 

The route is due west crossing the Jordan river in the first mile, 
and on over abroad stretch of bottom land 12 miles to Chambers, 
where are located several hot springs, at the northeastern point of 
the Oquirrh mountains. The soil on this broad bottom in most 
parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand, and 
with water for irrigation would produce crops in as great abundance 
as the same number of acres in any part of the world. Some few 
settlers have located on these lands, but on the greater portion 
stock, cattle and sheep, range at will; also great numbers of 
"narrow gauge mules," called jack-rabbits east of Utah. 

Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train 
gradually approaches Great Salt lake, which has been in view for 
some miles, and five miles from Chambers we pass the old aban- 
doned bathing station of Black Rock, named for a black-looking 
rock setting out in the lake about 300 feet from the shore, and 
about 50 feet in height. It is opposite Lion Head Rock, a sharp 
promontory jutting out into the lake, the summit of wdiich is 
known as Observation Point, so named from the unobstructed 
view of the surrounding country which can be had from its sum- 
mit. One mile further is 

(■urficld Beach — on Great Salt lake, famous the world 
over as one of the most attractive bathing resorts in the world. 

For over 20 years — long before the railroad was thought of — 
Black Rock was a popular bathing resort for the citizens of Salt 
Lake City. It was also visited by many tourists. 

At that time a trip to the lake and back for a party of four was 
just $3 each, when the roads were good the trip occupying the 
whole day. Now, in the bathing season, three round trips can be 
made a day, all for half the money paid before the railroad was 
constructed. 

The bathing beach slopes away for 100 yards before gaining a 
depth of six feet, with a fine sandy bottom, with no holes or 




undertow. The water is pure aud very buoyant, sustaining one on 
its surface indefinitely without an effort, raising and lowering with 
the respiration. 

In the water of the lake no living thing exists, hence the timid 
need have no fear of reptiles— it's too salt for them. While the 
water of the ocean contains only three per cent, salt, the water of 
this lake contains over 13 per cent. 

Persons taking their first bath should be a little cautious about 
a sudden introduction to the waters. 



Is it not strange that of all the babies born in Utah, none have ever been 
found on the door-steps of a Gentile? 



158 GARFIELD AND VICINITY. 

The railroad company purchased all interests at Garfield Beach 
several years ago, and have made extensive improvements since. 
They consist of a handsome station building, 350x50 feet, of the 
latest improved design, a magnificent pavilion 165x65 feet, built 
over the water 400 feet from shore, surmounted by a tower in the 
center overlooking the lake on all sides. The pavilion is ap- 
proached b}* a broad covered pier over 300 feet in length, flanked 
on the sides by 400 elegant dressing rooms fitted up with all the 
modern improvements for comfort and convenience such as sta- 
tionary washstands, mirrors and showers for rinsing off the salt 
water of the lake. Bathing suits are to be had for ladies, gentle- 
men and children. 

A refreshment saloon, equipped with all the appointments of a 
first-class establishment where all the substantial and every deli- 
cacy of the season is served at moderate prices. 

We have heard that the railroad company proposed to build a 
Large hotel on the beach capable of rooming several hundred peo- 
ple, but the convenient access to and from the hotels at Salt Lake 
City would seem to make it unnecessary. 

The baths are extremely invigorating and experience has 
proved them of great hygienic effect, stimulating the appetite to 
such an extent that a hearty meal immediately after a bath is felt 
to be almost a necessity to sustain life. 

During the bathing season trains run back and forth between 
.Salt Lake City and the beach at frequent intervals. 

Observation Point — Is a short distance east from the Garfield, 
from the summit of which an extended view can be had. Antelope 
or Church Island to the northeast, is 14 miles distant; Goose Creek 
mountains 100 miles northwest; Wasatch mountains from 20 to 25 
miles east; West mountain, back of which is the great American 
desert, 15 miles, and the Oquirrh close to the south, while the 
view to the southwest extends to the rim of the basin 17 miles 
away. 

Giant's Cave — Is situated away up in the side of the mountains 
to the south of Garfield beach, in an opening extending several 
hundred feet into the mountain side with a ceiling ranging in 
height from ten to 75 feet from which hang stalactites of great 
beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of 
Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of 
the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi- 
tion among the Indians to the effect that "many hundred years 
ago two tribes of Indians were at war with each other and that 
the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were 
followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould- 
ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape"— and thus 
their place of refuge became their grave. 

Oouirrh Mountains — Immediately south of Garfield, are about 
1,0()(> feet above the road, and generally have rounded peaks, cov- 
ered with small trees in places, sage, shrubs and grass in others, 
and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines near the 
summit. Game, such as deer and bear, range these mountains; 
ducks are abundant six miles east of Garfield; and lake fish? nary 
one! 

STEAM Yacht — Now, if the railroad company want to give 
their improvements at Garfield a grand coup de grace, they will 



STOCKTON" — AND BACK. 159 



construct without delay a first-class passenger steam yacht, put it 
in charge of the veteran Capt. Darres to navigate the take, affording 
the traveler an opportunity to explore the mysteries of the famous 
"Dead ,Sea " of America and to hehold the marvelous grandeur 
with which this inland sea abounds, of which the great traveler, 
Von Humboldt, so truly said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur 
of Como and Killarney combined." 

Leaving Garfield our course is more to the southward along the 
side of the lake by a few well-cultivated farms, where water can be 
had from the mountains on the left in sufficient quantities for 
irrigating them. Two miles south on the left is "Doby Rock," a 
high isolated rock on elevated ground; so named after an old 
Indian who was buried near. Turning more to the left and draw- 
ing awav from the lake the road follows along a few miles from 
the base of the mountains beside which is located "E. T. City," a 
small Mormon village. 

If all-way House — Is a small station six miles from Garfield, 
near a flouring and woolen-mill. On the opposite side of the val- 
ley to the west is Grantsviele, nine miles distant (connected 
with the train by daily stage), with a population of nearly 2,000 in 
the midst of a large body of fine agricultural land. Back of Grants- 
ville rise the West mountains which rear their peaks fully 2,000 feet 
above the town. Just beyond these mountains is Skull valley, 
made notable from an Indian fight which once occurred there, 
after which for many years, the ground was covered with bones. 

Tooele — Station— [From Garfield, )2 miles].— Is two miles from 
the town of Tooele, which is situated to the left of the station 
close in beside the mountain. 

TooELE is the seat of Tooele county and contains a population 
of nearly 2,000. Along the base of the mountain the land is irri- 
gated from the little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges, 
the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake. It is con- 
sidered one of the best fruit and vegetable districts in Utah. 



The road has been gradually climbing since leaving Garfield, 
until we are now on a high bench curving with the mountains 
more to the westward and some miles below the lower end of the 
lake. As we near the lower portion of the great valley which lies 
on our right the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards 
below the end of the track rises 500 feet, completely locking in 
the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle, extending in a grand 
arc from the Oquirrh mountains on the east, to meet the range 
on the west, forming one great bend fully two miles in curvature. 
Here at the base is the 

Terminus — of the railroad — and wdiere it has remained for 
the last ten years, and where it is likely to remain for another ten. 

The rim is about half a mile in width, then drops away into 
Rush valley to a level with the "terminus." 

**l Oek I Oil — [Pop., iso; from Terminus, two miles; Salt Lake City, 39 miles]. 
Is situated in the northeast corner of Rush valley about half mile 
east from Rush lake, a sheet of fresh water two miles long and a 
half mile wide. The town at one time contained three smelting 
furnaces and a population of about 600, but at this date there is 
little being done in this vicinity other than stock-raising and a 
little farming along Rush valley. 



160 GOOD-BYE, UTAH ! 



To reach Stockton by rail it will be necessary to drive a tunnel 
through the rim separating Rush from Utah valley, 1,000 feet in 
length, exclusive of approaches. 

Connections — From Stockton: Mail hack southeast to Ophir, 13 miles, 
three times a week. 

From Stockton, south to Saint John, nine miles; Centre, eight miles, and 
Vernon, 12 miles, three times a week. 

This is very little on this tour beyond Garfield Beach to inter- 
est the tourist, and there is onlv one train a day between Salt Lake 
Cit}- and the Terminus. 



Returning to Salt Lake and thence to Ogden, our route from 
that city is northward to Montana. Passengers from Ogden west, 
via Central Pacific railroad, for Sacramento, San Francisco, Los 
Angeles and San Diego and all over Callforn'a, should be sure 
and buy CrofuTT's Overhand Tours No. ± It covers the route 
represented by the red line on the map in this book. 

Side Tour Xo. 10 — From Ogden City, northward to 
Brigham City, Logan and Pocatello, connecting at the 
latter with Side Tour No. 11, for Blackfoot, Yellow- 
stone National Park, Dillon, Butte City, Anaconda, Deer 
Lodge and Garrison. 

For this Tour, we take the train on the Utah & Northern, a 
branch of the Union Pacific railway system. This road is a nar- 
row gauge to Pocatello, 153 miles, from which place northward, 
it is now a standard gauge. The road was commenced in 1874, 
and extended from time to time to its present terminus. 

There is only one passenger train a day each way, so we have 
no choice of time, and, unlike our last five tours, the train is pro- 
vided with a Pullman car. 

"All Aboard!" — means farewell to Utah, and "good even- 
ing" to Idaho. Our train leaves at 4:40 p. 111., direction, north- 
ward; skirts the western edge of the city, across rich, broad and 
well cultivated fields, meadows, orchards and gardens, to 

Hot Springs — Nine miles from Ogden, where a hotel and 
extensive bathing accommodations are provided. 

The spring is at the point of the mountain just before reaching 
the station on the right. It is one of the many hot springs which 
abound in the Great Salt lake and Nevada basins. In cold 
weather it sends up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for 
miles away. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur, iron and 
other mineral substances. 

Five miles further, the Mormon town of YVillard [pop., Scx>l 
can be seen nestling in beside the mountains, and seven miles be- 
yond, similarly situated, Brigham [pop., 1,000], the seat of Box 
Flder county, and like Willard, every house is in the midst of 
fruit orchards and gardens. 

Volcanic — Strong evidences exist of the great volcanic up- 
heaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires. Just 
east of Willard in the first range of hills, is the crater of an ex- 
tinct volcano which covers several acres. The masses of lava 
lying around and its bleak, barren and desolate appearance 
would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many 
years have elapsed since it was in active operation. 



NORTH — FROM OGDEN. Ifil 



WaTER-Marks — With the rugged mountains on our right and 
the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of 
interest continually rising around us. Far up the sides of the 
mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is 
sundered by canons, gulches and ravines is the old water-mark 
of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a 
mighty sea, washing the mountain sides several hundred feet 
above us. The old water-line is no creation of the imagination, 
but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded 
pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters 
of tbe lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and 
largest bench at various places may be seen two others at about 
equal distances apart, showing that the waters have had three 
different altitudes before they reached their present level. 

From Ogdeu to a few miles beyond Brigham our road has run 
parallel with the Central Pacific, from half to one mile to the left. 
The Great Salt lake has been in view far in the distance. Bear 
river valley now appears, through which the same river that we 
interviewed at Kvanston and beyond, flows to its grave in the great 
dead sea beyond. This stream runs north from Kvanston nearly 
150 miles, then curving to the west and south conies down to Salt 
lake. Our train runs up the valley, leaving and returning at 
times for a distance of HO miles. 

Pick and Choose — In a ten-mile run from Brigham one can 
pick and choose almost anything in the way of land, water and 
rocks to be found in Utah. All along that distance at intervals 
appear springs, some cold and some very hot basaltic knolls and 
stagnant pools well cultivated fields and alkali beds little lakes 
and sage-brush bumps rich soil and big crops, then barren wastes 
with nary shrub or vegetable life. 

Iloiiejville — [From-Ogden, 30 miles]. — Isasmall hamlet of far- 
mers, some of whom have very respectable stone houses. But we 
failed to see the honey, so went ahead and left it fov-hind. 

Dewey — Is passed in five miles, where a grist-mill does duty 
and some good farms appear. Then curving around the point 
of the mountain, head directly for the north up Bear valley, the 
grade increasing. Sage-brush is the rule; pines and cedars appear 
in the mountain gorges close on our right, as up we climb ! 

CollillKlOll — [five miles], formerly called Hampton's, once a 
meal station, now abandoned as such. 

Just before reaching this station the road cuts through a spur 
of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the valley, leav- 
ing a high isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. 
To the north [six miles], the Bear river canons, through a low spur 
of the Wasatch, which reaches away to the northwest. To the 
west of this spur lies the Malad valley and Malad river; the latter 
and the Bear come close together into the valley immediately to 
the west of where we stand, then flow close together down the 
valley to the south — parallel for ten miles before they unite — in 
some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this val- 
ley rises the long range of the Malad mountains, which, commenc- 
ing near Corinne. run nearly north to opposite this point and 
then bears away to the northwest. 

Only a small portion of the lauds in the Bear or Malad valleys 
is cultivated; cattle and sheep range at will. 



162 BEAR — AND CACHE VALLEYS. 

CoNNECTiONS-Mail hack: Northwest daily to Plymoth, ten miles; Portage, 
seven miles; Cherry Creek, ten miles, and Malad City, six miles; total, 33 
miles. ___ 

Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100- foot grade, curving 
around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through 
which Bear river cuts through a few miles to the northward. Finally 
the 

Summit — Is reached and passed four miles from Collinston, 
and we curve to the east and then to the south, around the narrow 
spur alluded to, which separates Bear valley from Cache valley. 

From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache 
valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in 
Utah. The valley heads in the Wasatch mountains, northeast of 
Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles, 
to where it intersects Marsh valley on the north, five miles dis- 
tant. The Logan river runs through the lower portion of this 
valley and is composed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork and 
Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all 
the land in the valley. 

Mention — [Pop.,700; from the Summit, six miles]. — Is situated on 
a slope of the Wasatch spur, on the west side of Cache valley. 



Connections — Mail hack: South to Wellsville, six miles, daily. 



Mormon VILLAGES — In Cache valley there are upwards of 20 
Mormon villages, that number populations varying from 300 to 
3,200. The}- are all surrounded with well cultivated lands, orchards, 
vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoining 
mountains rippling all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and 
with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, taking them all 
in all, they are prosperous and thriving communities, in which 
each one of the communities seems to strive to advance the good 
of all. They are an industrious, hard-working, self-reliant and 
apparently contented people, always living within their means. 
The estimated population of the valley is about 17,0(K). 

Leaving Mendon our direction is due east to Logan, across the 
valley, which runs north and south. 

COLLEGE FARM-Midway the valley, between Mendon and Logan, 
is situated a farm of 9,643 acres, formerly owned by President Brig- 
ham Young and deeded by him just before his death, to trustees in 
trust to endow a college at Logan, to be called "Brigham Young Col- 
lege." The trustees are leasing the lands — of which there are no 
better in Utah — for the purpose of creating a fund to carry out the 
bequest. 

Crossing Logan river, and seven miles from Mendon, our train 
stops— 30 minutes for meals — at the city of 

Lojftlll — [Pop., 3,200; from Ogden, 58 miles; elevation, 4,497 feet]. — Is 
the seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache valley 
close beside the mountains, just below the mouth of Logan canon. 

As a regular meal station this place is peculiar, and peculiarly 
Mormon, being represented by "triplets," three dining-rooms, which 
grade their charges for a meal, 25, 50 and To cents respectively. 
Many claim the former is the best. Howbeit, we cannot recom- 
mend the latter. 

The city contains two flourishing mills, a woolen-mill, the rail- 
road machine and repair shops of a division, two hotels (the Logan 



GOOD EVENING, IDAHO ! 163 

and the Curtis), one bank, a brewery, a branch of the Z. C. M. I., 
besides a variety of stores and shops and small manufacturing 
establishments; also the Utah Journal. 

The new tabernacle is of cut stone and seats 2,500 people. 



Extended View — Close on the east side of the city a round, 
pointed plateau rises MOO feet above the streets, projecting out from 
the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet into the valley; 
this plateau at the widest place is -500 feet and shaped like a mon- 
ster flat-boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the front of the 
plateau and looking west the city is close in the foreground, with 
the broad valley beyond, and in the distance over all the spur 
of the Wasatch range, over which we came from Bear valley. 

To the right and left the valley extends for nearly a score of 
miles in all its beauty, and no less than 15 towns and villages are 
in sight, surrounded by mountain ranges which rise, range upon 
range, and peak overtopping peak, the highest of which are robed 
in a perpetual mantle of snow. 

Logan Temple — In the most commanding position on this 
plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four 
adjoining counties have erected a magnificent temple in which to 
conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon Church. The 
main building is of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide and 86 
feet high, with a grand tower, 144 feet high from base to pinnacle. 
Cost, complete, $500,000. 

Around the outer rim of the plateau a double row of trees has 
been planted, and the water from the mountains above conducted 
in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds. 

The settlers in Cache valley are all Mormons, and are all 
engaged in agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pursuits. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southward six times a week to Providence, 
two miles; Millville, two miles; Hyrum, four miles, and Paradise, four 
mill 1 '-. 

Also northwest twice a week to Benson, six miles; Newton, seven miles; 
Clarkston, six miles, and Trenton, four miles. 

Leaving Logan our road runs north along the base of the main 
range of the Wasatch mountains, having described a great horse- 
shoe curve from the summit, which we can see across the valley to 
the westward. Hyde Park is reached in four miles, Smithfield 
in three miles, and Richmond in six miles; all small Mormon 
villages, situated to the right of the road beside the mountains. 

Franklin — Is reached in another six miles, where, if the train is 
"ou time" (8:03 p. in.), we can say, "Good evening, Idaho territory!" 

Franklin — Is one mile north of the boundary line between 
Utah and Idaho — [Pop., 450]. It is in the northern end of Cache 
valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb creek, about one mile from 
the station, to the northeast at the base of the mountains. The 
seat of Oneida county is Malad city, 40 miles to the northwest, 
over the mountains. The grain shipments aggregate 2,150 tons a 
year. 

From Franklin our course is niore to the westward. ' 

PrestOIl — [Seven miles] — Situated on Worm creek, where is 
located a fine body of land well cultivated. 



Connections — Mail hack: Northward to Riverdale, five miles, and Mink 
Creek, five miles, three times a week. 



Ki4 CONNOR'S SHOSHONE FIGHT. 



Rattling along over a tortuous route, through numerous deep 
cuts Bear river appears on the left, but far below with narrow bot- 
tom lands on each side; descending into the valley, the river is 
crossed, and passing the little side-track station of Battle Creek 
[from Franklin, 12 miles] we turn to the left, leaving Bear river and 
follow up Connor's canon; the grade is heavy, deep cuts are num- 
erous, sage-brush abounds, and the country is very broken — only 
adapted to stock-raising. Herds of sheep and some cattle are to 
be seen, and on reaching Marsh valley [eight miles from Battle Creek] 
a few well cultivated farms. 

Connor's Fight — with the Shoshone Indians, took place in 
Connor's canon in the winter of 1863-4. At the time of this fight 
there were two feet of snow on the ground, and the weather very 
cold. The Indians — some hundreds — were hid in the canon among 
the wiliows along the creek, and in the cedars to the right along 
the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops the Indians were 
completely overcome, and, with few exceptions, none were left 
alive to tell the tale. The bones of the dead are still to be seen. 



Passing OXFORD— [From Battle Creek, n miles] — A small settlement 
in Marsh valley, and Swan Lake [three miles], another of the same 
kind, situated near a lake of that name, frequented at certain sea- 
sons by swans, our road keeps along the base of the mountains 
through a section devoted wholly to stock-raising, giving the go- 
by to the small Stations of CAI.VIN [seven miles], Downey [three miles], 
Thatcher [five miles], and Arimo [four miles], arriving at 

li <•< ailltllOCI — [From Arimo, seven miles; Ogden, 130 miles; Pocatello, 
23 miles; Soda Springs, 45 miles; elevation, 4,763 feet]. — Is situated on Port 
Neuf river just below the canon of that name and at the junction 
of the Oregon Short Line, which comes down through the canon, 
on the track of which our train runs to Pocatello on third rail. 



For continuation of this tour to Pocatello see under Oregon 
Short Line, page !<>!>. 




>lone Fark. 



FOR PORTLAND AND PUGET SOUND. 165 



OVERLAID 

FROM 

Green River City to the North Pacific Coast 

AND INTERMEDIATES 

via the Oregon Short-Line, 

A BRANCH OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM. 



There is but one regular through train a day, each way, and 
that is equipped with all the latest and best improvements of the 
times — Pullman's sleepers, etc. 

From Green river the route is the same as the old overland as 
far as Granger — see page 122. 



Ham's Fork — Comes down from the northwest and joins 
Black's Fork close to the west of Granger depot. This stream 
rises in Hodge's pass, 40 miles away, and runs through a well 
grassed section of country occupied exclusively by stock-growers, 
cattle and sheep principally. 

From Granger, our road follows up Ham's Fork to the divide 
of the mountains (elevation, 6,053 feet), pass through a long snow 
shed, and are on the drainage of the Great Utah basin. 

Fossil — Is a small station, 49 miles from Granger, situated on 
Twin creek, a small stream that finds its way into Bear river. 

The stations between Granger and Fossil and the distances 
apart, are: MOXA [seven miles], NUTRIA [seven miles], OPAL [nine miles], 

Waterfall [nine miles], Ham's Fork [eight miies^ and Fossil [ei^ht 

miles]. 



Coal — Large bodies of coal are said to be located along the 
slopes of the divide, and at one time several mines were opened 
and worked, loading many cars every day; but of late these mines 
have been idle, and the reason why is a problem ! 

Fossil's station was named on account of the great quantities of 
fossils found in the mountains near the station. These fossils are 
mostly of fishes, some of which are very large and perfect. They 
are sometimes found at the station for sale to travelers. 

From Fossil, we pass a number of unimportant stations: NuG- 
GET [seven miles], Sage [seven miles]— situated on Bear river at a 
point where our road turns directly north; BECKWITH [eight milesl, 
where are located on the left extensive hay meadows; CokevillE 
[twelve miles], once a meal station; BORDER [nine miles], NuphER L five 
miles], DlNGLE [nine miles], and to Montpelier, seven miles. Total 
distance from Fossil, 66 miles. 

RESOURCES — The industries of the country for the last (ill miles 
are all connected with the stock business, more or less, with only a 
few exceptions where settlers along Bear river have taken up land, 
built homes, and are doing something in the way of farming. On 
this route are to be seen the "home ranch" of several cattle com- 
panies, where large tracts of land are enclosed by fence, and a 
large amount of hay put up for winter use. See Bear lake, page 125. 



166 SODA SPRINGS — IDAHO. 

Moiltpdicr — [Pop., 900; from Granger, 115 miles; Pocatello, 99 miles; 
elevation, 5,946 feet].— Is a thrifty Mormon settlement, situated in 
about the center of the Bear Lake country, opposite to the east of the 
northern end of Bear lake, on a gradual slope of rich agricultural 
land several miles in width. It has a number of stores which do a 
large business with people from a dozen or more small Mormon 
hamlets in the adjoining country. 

Shipments for the year ending June, 1888, were: Grain, 1,895 tons; 
lumber, 1,195 tons; miscellaneous, 442 tons. Total, 3,680 tons. 

Connections— Mail hack: Northward to Afton. Wyo., 50 miles, once a 
week. See also under Evanston, page 126. 

Leaving Montpelier, our course changes to the northwest until 
we reach Soda Springs, 29 miles distant. On the way we pass a 
number of small stations, named PESCADARO [six miles], NovEXE 
[eight miies], Oasis [seven miles]. Sandwiched in are some good 
farms, lava beds, rocky knolls, little creeks, Bear river, meadows 
and quite a number of new settlers, just commenced making 
homes. 

Soda Springs — Station and town. — [Pop., 500; from Montpelier 
29 miles, McCammon 45 miles; Pocatello, 6S miles; Salt Lake City, 212 miles; 
Omaha, 1,024 miles; Portland, 1,190 miles; elevation, 5,780 feet]. — Is in Bing- 
ham count}-, Idaho, situated on Soda creek about one mile north 
from its junction with Bear river. It contains four general mer- 
chandise stores, two saw-mills, a large mineral water bottling es- 
tablishment, a brewery, a number of small shops and saloons, and 
two hotels— the Idanha and Williams — besides a number of boarding 
houses. It also contains quite a number of neat private residences 
and summer cottages — as, be it remembered, this place since the 
completion of the railroad to it, has become a great sanitarium 
and .summer resort, on account of the great number of mineral 
springs and attractions in the vicinity. Some mining operations 
are carried on in the country tributary — as well as important 
stock-raising interests. 

Shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1888, amounted to: 
Grain, 203 tons; live-stock, 1,100; miscellaneous, 892. Total, 2,195 
tons. 

Connections— Mail hack: North, once a week, to Omega, 20 miles; Gray's, 
20 miles, on John Day lake; Caribou, 16 miles, where are some rich mines and 
a 40-stamp mill; fare, $5. 

SodJi Springs — which give the name to the town and sta- 
tion, consists of a group of from 20 to 30 remarkable mineral 
springs, within a radius of three miles from the town, and over 100 
within eight or nine miles. It is claimed the waters possess all 
the virtues of the most celebrated springs in the world. Their num- 
ber and variety preclude the publication of an analysis of the 
waters, but the different springs are charged, more or less, with 
bi-carbonate of soda, bi-carbonate of potash, chloride of sodium 
and potash, sulphate of magnesia, bi-carbonate of magnesia, lime, 
alumina, silica, carbonate of iron, free carbonic acid gas, and a 
multitude of other ingredients. One authority says "they are a spe- 
cific for the cure of all manner of indigestion, kidney troubles 
(even up to advanced symptoms of Bright's diseased and diabetes, 
dropsv, and a thousand kindred ills." 

In the early settlement of Utah it is said President Brigham 
Young visited these springs, in company with many of the high 



SODA SPRINGS — AND VICINITY. 167 



priests of the Mormon Church, and blessed their waters. Can it 
be that to him the present and future generations are indebted 
for their virtues ? Howbeit, the Mormon people hold the waters 
in high esteem and thousands never let a summer pass without 
making a sojourn at the springs — many times camping out for 
months at a time. 

In a number of these springs the water is very cold, in others 
quite warm. Some are so highly charged with carbonic acid and 
other gases as to prove a most pleasing beverage. Many of the 
springs are known by such names as Hooper, Steamboat, Idanha, 
Formation, Champagna, Jewsharp, etc., etc. 

Idanha — Meaning "gem of the mountains," has its water 
charged with soda and magnesia with such a chemical nicety, that 
they have become so popular at home and abroad that as high as 
10,000 bottles a day have been filled by the bottling company, and 
shipped away for use in distant places. 

Formation Spring — Two and a half miles distant, is a great 
natural curiosity. It covers several acres of land, and the water 
flowing over the ground is constantly forming cascades, terraces 
and miniature lakes, by calcareous deposit or action; new forma- 
tions are continually occurring, so that visitors from year to year 
find new attractions and many changes and transformations. 
Near the center of these formations is a subterranean passage or 
magnificent cave some 200 feet long, with an angle or L, the roof 
being high enough to allow people to walk in an upright position 
in most parts of it, and covered with stalactites, reflecting the 
light of torch or candle dazzling to the eye. 

Steamboat Spring — So named by the "Pathfinder" — Gen, 
Fremont, in 1843 — has a temperature of 87 degrees. It is a small 
geyser, the water being emitted spasmodically, and thrown several 
feet in its egress. 

Swan Lake— some miles to the eastward from the station, 
is another curiosity. It is a pretty little sheet of water in a cone- 
shaped basin, covering about two acres, surrounded with trees and 
luxuriant undergrowth of shrubs, etc., the rim of which is about 
ten feet above the surrounding country, and of calcareous forma- 
tion. The water is very clear, showing objects plainly at a depth 
of from 20 to 30 feet. The depth of the water is unknown, having 
been sounded for over 100 feet without finding bottom. From its 
surroundings, it is doubtless an old volcanic vomitory in which 
some of the fag-ends of the inferno still remain. The outlet is a 
series of small moss-covered basins arranged seemingly in regular 
order, the clear water overflowing the banks, trickling down into* 
the next emerald bowl, and then the next, again and again until it 
becomes a respectable-sized creek, which tumbles away to join Bear 
river on its way to its final grave in Great Salt lake. 

Sulphur Lake — Is situated in the vicinity of Swan lake, in 
the center of which boils up a large volume of water, strongly 
charged with sulphur, coating the shore with thick deposits of that 
suspicious mineral. 

In the region surrounding the springs are many other attrac- 
tions, worth a long journey to see and requiring mouths to explore; 
among them are extinct volcanos, geyser cones, beautiful lakes, 
wonderful caves, sulphur mountains and a boiling lake of sulphur, 
immense beds of lava, lava cones, etc., etc. 

L_ ^^ 



108 SODA — AND WESTWARD. 



Game — Haired, feathered and furred are numerous on the 
plains and in the mountains, particularly deer, elk, bear, antelope, 
sage-hens, pheasants, hares, rabbits, etc. 

Fish — Well, every little stream is alive with the finest trout, to 
say nothing of a number of other kinds. 

Climate — This region is an ideal health resort. The climate 
is as wonderful as the water. The days in summer are warm, while 
the nights are invariably cool enough for blankets. 

Hotels — The Idanha, the Indian name for Idaho, is a large 
first-class hotel built by the Union Pacific Railway Co. to 
accommodate the many visitors at the springs. It is three stories 
high, surrounded on three sides by a wide veranda, and surmounted 
with handsome towers, and furnished first-class. It is so built that 
there are no inside rooms, but from every side one can look out 
upon the magnificent landscape. It is fitted up with all the mod- 
ern improvements, electric light, etc. The management is under 
the supervision of the railroad company. 

The Williams is another good hotel with all the modern im- 
provements for comfort and far enough from the railroad to be 
away from the noise of passing trains. It has 35 rooms, all fur- 
nished first-class, with table and attendance all that could be 
desired. 

Leaving Soda Springs there is little of interest to the traveler, 
unless lava beds and other evidences of the great volcanic up- 
heaval that once disturbed this country are of interest. 

Passing CRATER [five miles], SOUAW CREEK [ten miles], PEBBLE 
[nine miles], L,AVA [seven miles], TOPAZ [six miles], we reach McCAM- 

mon [seven miles], at the junction of the Utah & Northern, 
where we were before on Tour No. 10. 

The country passed over from Soda Springs is occupied by few 
settlers engaged in farming pursuits, stock-raising being about the 
chief industry. 

The Port Neuf river is followed most of the way, along which 
are some fine meadows, hot sulphur springs, grassy slopes and 
cozy nooks, anon bordered by rugged palisades, immense cones 
and craters of extinct volcanos, huge dikes and lava beds, with 
dark caverns and yawning chasms, and, in season, all sandwiched 
in with countless flowers in great varieties, varying colors, shades 
and tints. 

Leaving McCammon and following down Port Neuf river the 
bluffs in places on each side show many peculiar rock formations. 
In some places the rocks rise like a solid wall, sheer 20 to 100 feet 
from the river brink or road, in a line of uniform height for miles 
in extent, resembling huge fortifications. In several places along 
the road there are two and sometimes three of these walls running 
parallel with each other some near the road and some far away. 

ROBBERS' ROOST — Is in a cave of lava rock about four miles 
before reaching Pocatello, where a band of "road agents" rendez- 
voused just before they robbed the Montanastage coach, in 1864', of 
a large amount of gold and other valuables. 

Below McCammon the following stations, in name only, are 
passed: ONYX [four miles], INKON [seven miles], PORT NEUF [six 
miles], from which it is six miles to 



POCATELLO — NORTHWARD. 169 



PocalCllO — [Pop., i, 600; from Soda Springs, 6S miles; Salt Lake City, 
153 miles; Butte, 263 miles; Omaha, 1,092 miles; Portland, 730 miles; elevation, 
4,466 feet]. — Is in Bingham county, Idaho, situated on Port Neuf 
river and the Fort Hall, Shoshone and Bannock Indian 
reservation. 

The town-site contains 1,840 acres-. The railway company have 
secured a title from the Interior department, and when proclaimed 
by the President, will be opened to settlement. At present all per- 
sons not connected with the railroad are here only on sufferance. 

The railroad company have here one of their largest hotels on 
the road, which is fitted up in first-class style, with fine rooms and 
large dining hall, as this is a meal station for most trains. 

The railroad company have located here the largest machine 
and repair shops on their whole western system, which with the 
round house and departments, give employment to about 800 
persons. 

There are two general merchandise stores here and several 
restaurants, saloons and shops. 



Connections — By rail: With the Utah & Northern branch for Ogden to the 
south, and Silver Bow on the north. The southern route is described in Side 
Tour No. 10, and that for the north in Side Tour No. 11. The track of the road 
south is narrow gauge, and the one to the north standard gauge, which neces- 
sitates a transfer at Pocatello of all through passengers from the north and 
south on that line. 



Side Tour IVo. 11 — From Pocatello northward to 
Blackfoot, Yellowstone National Park, Dillon, Butte 
City, Anaconda and Deer Dodge to Garrison. 

ggTThis is a continuation of Side Tour No. 10 from Ogden to 
Pocatello. 

For this tour we take the cars on the Utah & Northern, a branch 
of the Union Pacific system. On this end of the U. & N. the road- 
bed is standard gauge. 

Turning north from Pocatello the first station is Ross Fork 
[n miles], where is located the agency buildings and farm of the 

Fort Hall, Shoshone and Bannock Indian Reservation. 
This reservation comprises 1,202,830 acres in Bingham county, on 
the Port Neuf, Ross Fork, Snake and Blackfoot rivers, of which 
525,000 acres are as good as any land in Idaho or the western 
country. The Indians on the reservation number 1,700 men 
women and children; of this number 380 are engaged in agricul- 
tural pursuits, and raised for 1888, of wheat, oats and barley, 17,523 
bushels; of potatoes, N,450 bushels; other vegetables, 1,340 bushels. 
Their hay product was 2,5(10 tons, and their butter, 500 pounds. 

The reservation Indians own of horses, 0,250; cattle, 1,000; 
swine, 4>; mules, two, and domestic fowls, 350. 

BlackfOOt — [Pop., 800; from Ross Fork, 13 miles; elevation, 5,403 feet]. 
Named for the Blackfoot Indians. The seat of Bingham count}-, 
situated on a broad sage-brush plain with the Blackfoot river one 
mile to the south, and the Snake about one mile to the northwest. 
There are a number of general merchandise stores here, a bank, 
U. S. land office, two forwarding companies, a number of restau- 
rants and shops, one weekly newspaper — the News. Also several 
land and mining companies. 

The territorial insane asylum is located near the town. 



170 



SCENIC — AGRICULTURE. 



Connections— Mail coach: Northwest daily to Arco, 50 miles; Lost River, 
nine miles; Antelope, nine miles; Houston, 15 miles; Carbonate, four miles; 
thence west to Cliff, eight miles; thence northeast to Caleb, nine miles; 
thence northwest to Dickey, 13 miles; thence north to Frost, 14 miles; 
Challis. 18 miles. Total, 149 miles. 

From Challis west to Custer, 33 miles, daily. 

From Challis north to Salmon City, 60 miles, hack, once a week. 

From Arco southwest to Martin. 16 miles; Era, five miles, daily 

From Era west to Bellevuk, 35 miles, once a week. 

From Arco northeast to Howe, 25 miles, once a week. 

From Dickey southwest to Ketchtjm, 35 miles, daily. Fare, about 1,5 cents 

per mile. 

FORT Hall — the new government post, is situated east from 

Blackfoot six miles. 

FORT Hall — old abandonded post, ten miles southwest on Snake 
river. 




IANTESS GEY5 



Agriculture — 
There is no better agri- 
cultural land in the 
west than that in the 
country tributary to 
Blackfoot. The agri- 
cultural interests are 
yet in their infancy, 
but enough has been 
demonstrated tosatisfy 
the farmers that agri- 
cultural pursuits can 
be followed with great 
profit and large pay- 
ing results. All along 
the streams and in fact 
wherever water can be 
obtained, natural 
meadows can be made 
and the very best 
grades of native grasses 
grown. Timothy and 
clover do well, but al- 
falfa is the favorite be- 
cause of its rapid 
growth and large yield 
— often three crops a 
year of three tons each 
to the acre. In favored 
spots wheat does well, 
and has been known to 

ield from 55 to 70 
to the acre. 
Apples, pears, plums, 
grapes andberriesgrow 
in abundance. All 
farming is done by ir- 
rigation, and water can 
be readily obtained by 
ditches from the nat- 
ural streams with as 
little labor and expeues 
as in any county in 
the territory. There 



m 

m, bushels 



EAGLE ROCK — MARKET LAKE. 171 

has been considerable settlement in this region in the past few- 
years, but there are still vast tracts yet open for settlement under 
the existing land laws. Stock-raising is the most important 
industry in this region of country; cattle and horses dp well 
here the r year around. The pasturage, both winter and summer 
ranges, are exceptionally fine. In the winters when the snows 
are on the mountains, stock feed in the valleys and along the 
river bottoms, and in summer they voluntarily return to the moun- 
tain grasses. 

MINING— All along Snake river are found auriferous sands, and 
placer mining is being followed in many localities with good pay- 
ing results. 

Climate — The healthfulness of the climate is unsurpassed, 
being practically free from malaria and billious troubles incident 
to the country east of the Missouri river. 

COUNTY Valuation — The assessed value of real and personal 
property of Bingham county for 1888 was $2,565,130. 

From Blackfoot our direction is to the northeast, following up 
the Snake river on its eastern bank, passing the side-track of 
Basalt in 12 miles, where lava beds appear, and reaching in 13 
miles 

I/Sl^lc Rock. — [Pop., i, 600; from Blackfoot, 28 miles; elevation, 4,712 
feet]. — This place, before the advent of the railroad, was known as 
"Taylor's bridge," a bridge having been constructed over Snake 
river at this point in 1863 by one Taylor, who, in the following 
years, did "most everlastingly sinch the Montana emigrants, who 
came this route from the states." 

The railroad company have located here machine repair shops 
and the usual round-houses found at the junction of divisions. 

Eagle Rock, for some trains, is a meal station and contains half 
dozen general merchandise stores, a bank, brewerv, a variety of 
shops, restaurants and saloons, two hotels — Brooks and Chamber- 
lins — and one weekly paper, the Register. 

RUMOR — Backed up by surveys, has it that the Union Pacific 
Railway Co. propose at an early day to commence building a 
branch from this station, via Snake river canon and Jackson's lake, 
to the Yellowstone National Park. 

Game — Of all kinds abound in the valleys and in the moun- 
tains, while along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are 
legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notablv the 
trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an 

old sportsman feel happy. 

Connections — Mail hack: North to Lewisvillk, 17 miles: Menan, three 
miles; thence east to Lyman, five miles; thence northeast to Rexbtjrg nine 
miles; Teton, eight miles; Wilford, two miles; thence west to Egin. eight 
miles; and BRIGHTON, four miles, three times a week. 



Crossing the Snake to its west bank our direction is north, 
through a range of country devoted wholly to stock-raising; basal- 
tic knolls appear and occasional alkali sinks. 

Market Lake — [Pop., so; from Eagle Rock, 17 miles]. — Is the 
first station after crossing the Snake. 



The "three Tetous" are to be seen to the eastward; they over- 
look the Yellowstone National Park, which lies at their eastern 
base. - 



172 YELLOWSTONE— WONDERLAND. 



Volcanic — The whole country now has a volcanic appear- 
ance — lava beds and knolls everywhere; valuless for agricultural 
purposes, but in and along the base of the mountains on each side 
from five to ten miles distant, the grasses are abundant and all 
kinds of stock do well. 

C'nilin* — [Pop., 300; from Market Lake, 21 miles; elevation. 4,822 feet]. 
Is the principal forwarding station for freight destined for the 
Lemhi agency and the mining camps to the westward. It con- 
tains two general merchandise stores, two hotels and a variety of 
shops and tradesmen. The citizens are mostly stock-men or those 
interested in the mines to the westward. Shipments — cattle, ores, 
bullion and lead. Total shipments for the year ending June 30, 
1888, 6,103 tons — of which 5,011 tons were bullion and lead, and 781 
tons of live-stock. 

Connections— Mail stage: Daily, west to Birch Crekk, 40 miles; thence 
northwest to Nicholia, 26 miles; thence west to Spring Mountain, 12 miles; 
thence northeast to Bannister, 12 miles; thence northwest to Junction, 15 
miles, and to the Lemhi Agency, 20 miles; fare, about 15 cents a mile. 

From Lemhi Agency to Fort Lemhi, nine miles, three times a week. [See 
tinder "Red Rock."] 

From Nicholia northeast to Woodland. 12 miles. * Star route special. 



Proceeding on through patches of sage-brush and barren wastes 
of volcanic deposits, passing Dry Creek [12 miles], High Bridge 
[nine miles], with the mountains on both sides gradually closing in 
on our way, and China Point [three miles], we run plump into a 
mountain gorge and stop at 

BeaYCr CailOIl — Station — [Pop., 200; from China Point, five miles; 
elevation, 6,023 feet]. — Is in Bingham county, Idaho, at the mouth of 
the rugged Beaver canon. It contains two general merchandise 
stores, three saw-mills, a hotel and scores of blighted hopes; as, 
during the building of the road the population numbered 1,000 
or more, some of whom built homes, and, after the completion of 
the road through the canon, deserted them, and these homes are 
now "for rent" cheap. 

Lumbering is the most important business here. Stock run the 
grassy ranges and grow fat and sleek, and put much coin in the 



purse of those who wait. 

Connections — During the summer season a line of passenger stages leave 
this station for the Yellowstone National Park, reaching Firehole basin 
near the southern end of the park in a distance of 100 miles. The journey is a very 
interesting one to those fond of grand scenery, and is made in two days, resting 
over night at Snake river crossing, dining at Manley'sui Madison valley, and 
reaching Firehole in the evening. 

Yellowstone National I*ark — A description of which 
has filled many volumes officially and otherwise and will continue 
so to do for all time, can only faintly present the facts, marvelous 
wonders and unequalled grandeur to tbe reader's eye and under- 
standing. Had we the space to devote, which we have not, we 
doubt our ability to interest the reader further than to give a few 
points, which may be of value to the tourist anticipating a visit to 
this, the greatest wonderland in the world. 

The first report from white men regarding the National Park 
that ever reached the public was made by Capt. Lacy, in 1863, but 
it attracted little attention. Again in 1869, two returning prospec- 
tors reported their wonderful discoveries in Geyser basin. This 
was followed in 1871, by the government sending the late Prof. 
Havden, U. S. geologist, to make an examination of tbe locality. 

In his report, accompanied by photographs, Dr. Hayden, demon- 
strated that this our own country contains natural wonders which 



YELLOWSTONE— NATIONAL PARK. 

m 




in extent, grandeur and wondrous beauty far surpass those of any 
other portion of the known world. The result has been a bill 
passed congress in 1872, setting apart a tract of country 55 by 65 
miles in extent "for the benefit and enjoyment of the people," and 
called it the "Yellowstone National Park," taking a portion of 
territory from both Montana and Wyoming— principally the latter. 
The entire area within the limits of the reservation is over 6,000 
feet in altitude. Almost in the center of this tract is located the 



174 INCOMPARABLY GRAND. 

Yellowstone lake, a bod)' of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an 
elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the 
numerous valleys on every side rise to a varied height of 12,000 feet. 

This country presents the most wonderful volcanic appearance 
of any portion of the continent. The great number of hot springs 
and the geysers represent the last stages — the vent or escape pipes 
— of these remarkable volcanic manifestations of the infernal 
forces. All these springs are adorned with decorations more beau- 
tiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have required 
thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. The 
most remarkable of these geysers throws a column of boiling hot 
water 15 feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 feet. This 
display is continued for hours together and so immense is the 
quantity of water discharged that, during the eruption, the volume 
of water in the river is doubled. Another throws a column of hot 
water 200 feet in height and over a foot in diameter. It is said 
the geysers of Iceland, which have been the objects of interest for 
scientists and travelers of the entire world for years, sink into in- 
significance in comparison with the hot springs of the Yellowstone 
and Firehole basins. 

The mountain rim of the Yellowstone lake rises from lj500 to 
4,000 feet above its surface, and except in two directions, is un- 
broken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, 
through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical 
peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which sur- 
rounds the lake are born the tributaries — almost the principal 
sources — of three of the largest rivers on the continent. Four ot 
the most important tributaries of the Missouri, namely, the Big 
Horn, the Yellowstone, the Madison and the Gallatin, have their 
springs here. Flowing first north then east, they strike the Mis- 
souri which in its turn flows southeasterly to the Mississippi 
valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that 
empties its tides at least 3,500 miles below into the Gulf of Mexico. 
The Snake river, whose sources are actually interlaced with those 
of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns westward and traverses 
nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia 
on its way to the Pacific ocean. Again, the Green river rising but 
a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of 
the south which, after innumerable windings through deserts and 
a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canons, 
surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth and 
gloom, reaches the Gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty 
recesses where these springs rise, the explorer stands, as it were, 
astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped 
into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast 
into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic. It is a 
thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place 
to expand like an eagle's. 

Why the water is hot! The most wonderful story about this 
remarkable region is told by Langford, one of the first discoverers 
and first government commissioner in charge of the park. In 
accounting for the water being hot he says: "At a certain point on 
the Yellowstone river the water runs down a steep and perfect 
grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth 
from the velocity of the rushing torrent, that, at a distance of 
20 miles, the friction becomes so great that the water is boiling hot." 



MONTANA — STATISTICS. 



175 



We do not vouch for the truth of this story; and we are not certain 
that Langford will swear to it. 

In conclusion we say to you, visit the Yellowstone National 
Park; don't be in a hurry, spend a month there; you will find good 
hotel accommodations. Visit leisurely the lakes, geysers, falls, 
etc., and our word for it, the marvelous scenes of this wonderland 
will live in pleasant memory until the sands of time have reached 
their last grain, and the great unknown is no longer a problem. 



See Illustrations— Pages 21, 36, 108, 113, 104, 173 and 17-3- 
Also Large View No. 1 . 




Returning to and leaving Beaver Canon station our train rushes 
northward, climbing the divide separating the waters of the Pacific 
from those of the Atlantic. The grade 
is heavy, the route tortuous; the canon 
is passed, also the station of Pleas- 
ant Yau<ky, and 13 miles brings our 
train to the summit of the Rockies. 

.TIOIIMKl — [From Beaver Canon station, 
13 miles; elevation, 6.S07 feet]. — Is named 
for the two territories on the line of 
which it is located — Mon-ida — Mon- 
tana-Idaho. The "continental di- 
vide," painted on a sign-board on the 
west side of the track, is just south 
from the station. Lnmbering and 
stock-raising are the only industries 
here. From Monida the descent is 
gradual down a little valley — a natural 
roadway with snow-capped mountain 
scenery in the distance, with cattle and 
sheep grazing on grassy slopeson each 
~£^§|p?l side, as this is a region devoted wholly 
to stock interests. 

Molilalia— Gov. Leslie, of Mon- 
tana, in concluding his report to the 
Secretary of the Interior for 1888, shows 
up the present position of Montana, 
condensed to a space that we cannot 
refrain from copying. IV s pithy: 

"The annual out-put of 
our mines ten years ago 
was estimated at $7,000,- 
01 10 ; n o w it is over$31 , 001 > , - 
(Hill. The total value of 
taxable property in the 
territorv then was $12,- 
000,000: nowit is $70, 000,- 
(H H l mot counting the 
value of the mining 
property^. The number 
of cattle in the terri- 
tory then was 220,00(1, 
now it is over 1,500,000: 

FAITHFUL — YELLOWSTONE PARK. ' ' ' 




176 RED ROCK VALLEY. 



number of sheep then was 120,000, now it is over 2,000,000; number 
of horses then was 40,000, now it is 200,000; number of acres 
of land then under cultivation was 265,000, now there are 
over 2,000,000 acres appropriated and settled for farming purposes; 
then the commerce of the whole territory was $20,000,000, now it 
is $40,000,000; then there were a dozen or so miles of railroad, now 
there are over 2,000; then the population was 30,000, now it is 
140,000; then the territory was in debt $112,000, now it is out of 
debt and there is plenty of money in the treasury; then taxes were 
high, now they are low, then the contest for the mastery of this 
country between the Indian and the white man was red with 
human blood, and even' household trembled in anxiety for the 
triumphs of peace and of rest; now all is quiet and the hostile foe 
has laid down his battle-ax, put on the robes of civilization and 
treads the path of industry side by side with the white man. 

"There are various localities in this territory separated from each 
other by great natural landmarks — mountains or rivers — either 
and each of which, considered in its extent and acreage, its quality 
of soil, timber, stone and water, is a great state in itself. The far- 
famed grain-growing Gallatin and Bitter Root valleys; the Plat 
Head, Yellowstone, Judith, Sun river, Missouri, Beaverhead, Big 
Hole, Big Horn, Rosebud, Milk river, Madison, Deer Lodge, 
Prickly Pear and Boulder valleys and many others have demon- 
strated to the world their superior capacity in the yield of wheat, 
oats, grass, potatoes, peas, vegetables of all kinds, small fruits and 
in some of them the large fruits. 

"These beautiful valleys, plains and their foot-hills are not ex- 
celled in producing qualities by any lands in the United States. 
The great streams of fast-going water which pass through or 
touch these lands is the source from which all needed irrigation 
can be cheaply supplied. There are many millions of acres of 
these lands yet in their virgin purity, inviting the plowman's 
hand." 

Spring Hill — [Pop., 100; from Monida, 15 miles; elevation, 6,265 feet]. 
Is a meal station for some trains. Two general merchandise stores, 
a hotel, the railroad round-house and repair shop comprise the 
place. Spring Hill is situated in the southern portion of 

Red Rock Valley — This valley is nearly 50 miles in length 
and is followed by the railroad, accompanied by Red Rock river, 
the entire distance. The valley is dotted at intervals with com- 
fortable farm houses and some fenced and well cultivated farms. 
Cattle, sheep and game range the grassy slopes on the east, above 
which can be seen patches of timber in the higher ravines, while 
on the west extend, as far as the eye can reach, the continental 
divide, rising from the valley — the lower portion timber-clad — peak 
upon peak to the region of perpetual snow, where their white 
heads stand forth as veterans of their kind, indicating age at least, 
if not respectability. — 

Rod Rook — Station — [From Spring Hill, 23 miles; elevation, 5,603 
feet]. — Is reached after passing, on our way down the valley, the 
little side-tracks DELI, [eight miles], and Crab Tkke [six miles]. 
About midway between these two stations is the somewhat 
noted 

RED Rock — from which this valley, river and station derives 
its name; is a bold cliff, probably 500 feet in height and half a mile 



DILLON — BEAVER HEAD VALLEY. 177 

long — projecting out into the valley from the eastward — of a bright 
red color, and can be seen for a distance up and down the valley 
for over 20 miles each way. 

The old wagon road follows this valley for the entire length, 
and this rock was a well-known land-mark for the "pilgrims" in 
early days. 

Connections — Mail stage: Westward, daily to Amesville, 16 miles; Horse 
Prairie, 12 miles; Fort Lemhi, 19 miles; thence northwest to Salmon City, 
20 miles. 

From Salmon City, mail hack northwest to Gibbonville, 38 miles; thence 
southwest to Shoup, 30 miles, three times a week. 

From Salmon City, mail southwest to Challis, 60 miles, once a week. 

[See under "Blackfoot."] 

Ciraylilie — [From Red Rock station, u miles] — Is a small station 
opposite where Beaver Head river comes down from the west. 

Following down the Beaver Head through Ryan's canon, eight 
miles, we come to Beaver Head Rock, a bold promontory at the 
gateway or mouth of the canon, which here opens out into 

Beaver Head Valley. — This valley is about 20 miles in 
length by ten miles in width, well watered, very fertile and a large 
portion under cultivation, yielding large crops of wheat, oats, hay, 
vegetables, etc., etc. In the valley, on the foot-hills, and in the 
surrounding mountains range vast herds of cattle, horses and 
sheep; tributary are mines of gold, silver, copper and coal of 
great value, many of which have but recently attracted 
attention. 

The mountains on the west of the valley are high, many of the 
most elevated peaks covered with snow. This range is a continu- 
ation of the continental divide, heretofore noted. 



DillOll — [Pop., 1,500; from Pocatello, 194 miles; Butte City, 69 miles; Gar- 
rison, 106 miles; elevation, 5,104 feet]. — Named for the late president of 
the Union Pacific railway. Is the seat of Beaver Head county, 
situated in the center of Beaver Head valley, and contains two 
banks, several churches and schools, one high school, graded, 
many large forwarding, agricultural and general merchandise 
stores, one weekly newspaper (the Tribune) shops of all kinds, 
and several small hotels. 

The shipments are ore, wool, cattle, sheep and farm products. 
Ore shipments amount to about 750 tons a year, and wool 500 tons. 

Large amounts of freight for the towns and mining camps to 
the eastward are re-shipped from Dillon on wagons, which on their 
return are loaded with ore or lumber. 

Collections— Mail stage: Northwest, daily to Argenta, 16 miles; thence 
southwest to Bannock, 15 miles. 

From Dillon — Mail-stage northeast, daily to Sheridan, 30 miles; thence 
southward to Laurin, ten miles; thence southeast, to Virginia City, 12 miles. 

From Virginia City — Northeast, daily to Enness, 14 miles; thence north to 
Meadow Creek, six miles; Washington Bar, four miles; Revenue, six 
miles; thence east to Red Bluffs, nine miles; Lewis, four miles, and Bozeman, 
2S miles. 

From Sheridan — Northwest, daily toSALSBURY, eight miles; Twin Bridges, 
three miles; thence north to Iron Rod, nine miles; Silver Star, five miles; 
Fish Creek, four miles; Hope, eight miles; Whitehall, six miles, and 
Boulder Valley, 30 miles, daily. 



Leaving Dillon, crossing the valley, passing Apex [12 miles], 
GLEN [seven miles], we drop down onto the Big Hole river and fol- 
low it up, passing EarlE [five miles] and stop at 

IHtlrOSe— [Pop.,30; fromEarle, seven miles; Dillon, 31 miles; elevation, 
5,189 feet]. — Is a regular meal station where trains stop 20 minutes. 



178 BUTTE CITY AND MINES. 

Mining, stock-raising and freighting are the occupations of the 
people in this vicinity. 

The station was named for Miss Melrose, daughter of Mrs. 
Blow, who resides near, and is one of the pioneers in Montana. 

And, by the way, the madam has an extraordinary history in 
connection with the hostile Indians who infested this country in 
early days — one worthy to rank with the most heroic deeds of 
bravery recorded of mothers in the annals of frontier life in this 
country, but we have not the space to record it. 



Connections — Mail stage: West, daily to Glendale, six miles, and from 
thence to Hecla, 12 miles, three times a week. 



Leaving Melrose our train dodges in and out around the cliffs 
and mountain spurs, .while following up a small creek 11 miles to 

I>ivido — another point where the waters divide — those on the 
north side reaching the Pacific ocean, on the south, the Atlantic. 

Connections — Mail: Northwest to Dewey's, five miles; Ralston, 15 miles; 
thence southwest to Wisdom, 35 miles; once a week. 



From Divide the route is tortuous, descending rapidly, passing 
several side-tracks of little importance. 

Silver Bow — [From Butte city, seven miles]. — This station is the 
end of the Utah & Northern, and the connecting point with the 
Montana Union railway. Here you will hear "passengers for 
Anaconda, Deer Lodge and Garrison, change cars; those for Butte 
City, keep your seats." 

We keep our seat, the train turns to the right and follows up a 
tributary of Deer Lodge river in view of the old placer diggings, 
once so rich, now abandoned — and seven miles climbing, passing 
mills and smelters, reach 

BllllO City — [Pop., 26,000; from Tocatello, 263 miles; elevation, 5,482 feet]. 
The seat of Silver Bow county, situated on a slope of the moun- 
tains facing south. The city contains many fine business blocks 
built of stone and brick, has three banks and banking houses, 
eight smelting works, three stamp-mills, four immense lumber 
yards, four foundries and machine works, three boiler works, three 
breweries, five places of amusement, scores of hotels — all poor 
ones — the St. Nicholas is best; eight churches, and schools 23 in 
number, many small miscellaneous manufactories, two daily news- 
papers — the Inter-Mountain and the Miner — electric light, tele- 
phone, etc., with motor, street and horse cars, and secret and be- 
nevolent orders, and stores and shops of all kinds. 

Mining Industry — The magnitude of the mining industry at 
Butte City and vicinity, and the overwhelming evidences, on all 
sides of the extent, richness and prominence of the comparatively 
few mines already developed is truly paralyzing — particularly to 
an ordinary scribe desiring only to give a full and plain statement 
of the mining industry. We have visited the "Comstock" in its 
palmy days, interviewed "Leadville" in its glory, and have found 
words to describe them; but this "Butte mining camp" is a great 
way ahead of both of those noted mining camps— taking them at 
their best. So don't look for any description here, but at the fol- 
lowing significant figures. 

In the vicinity of Butte placer mines have been worked since 
1864, yielding some millions in gold; and they are worked now to 
some extent. 



MINERAL BELT — ANACONDA. 179 

The first quartz mine location here was in 1864 but the first 
leading to important results dates back only to 1875. 

There are four classes of ores in the vicinity of Butte. The 
first produces only silver; the second only copper; the third, gold 
and silver; the fourth, silver and copper. 

The Mineral Belt — Is about four by six miles in extent, and 
the number of claims exceed 4,000; but the greater number of the 
locations and all the most valuable and productive mines are from 
one-quarter to three miles from Butte post office, in all directions. 
Of the 4,000 claims nearly 1,700 are "patented," yet not more than 
200 of these mines are being worked, principally for the reason 
that they are owned by business men who are too much occupied 
to enlarge their present field of operations. The greater number, 
however, cannot be worked profitably until more mills and smelt- 
ers are erected conveniently near for treating the ores, as those 
here are already taxed to their full capacity. Another reason — 
most of the ores are low grade, and will not pay freight charges 
to eastern markets. 

Come to the telephone and we will say to you: "The out-put of 
all classes of ores at Butte averages 65,000 tons per month. " "The 
840 stamps at Butte treat 500 tons of ore per day;" "the three 
custom nulls treat 70 tons a day;" "the chloridiziug stamp mills 
consume 14,000 tons of salt annually;" "the number of men em- 
ployed underground in the mines is 4,700;" "the pay-roll of the 
mining companies is .$470,500 per month;" "the smelters treat 
1,500 tons of ore a day;" "there are about 25 producing mines;" 
"there are 73 mines in different stages of development;" "the 
precious and base metal out-put of Butte for 1887 was $16,- 
143,500;" "and in conclusion, would say further, Butte has 
never had a boom, but has steadily marched to the front;" 
"she has the mines now waiting for developments capable of 
quadrupling the above figures." 

WALKERVILLE [two miles], MEADERVILLE [two miles], and BUR- 
LINGTON [three miles], are all thrifty suburbs of Butte City. 

Connections— By rail: Montana Central railroad and Montana Union 
railway. By mail 'stage: Northeast to Woodville, nine miles, and to 
Basin, 12 miles, daily. 

Taking the cars of the Montana Union, formerlv the Utah & 
Northern, we return to Silver Bow, seven miles, and start again for 
the north, following down Deer Lodge river, in its winding ways, 
11 miles to Stuart, a junction station, where a spur of the road leads 
westward, seven miles, to Anaconda. Passenger trains make a de- 
tour over this spur, returning to Stuart junction, proceed north to 
Deer Lodge and Garrison. 

AliaCOllda — [Pop., 3, 500; from Butte City, 26 miles; Deer Lodge, 30 miles]. 
Is a "phenomenal" city, in Deer Lodge county, situated on Warm 
Spring creek, a tributary of Deer Lodge river. The site of the 
town is a smooth plat with a surface requiring no grading — com- 
posed of cement clay and coarse gravel, free from mud, where the 
abundant snow-waters from the mountains to the west and south 
are conducted through the streets at trifling expense. 

The town plat is on the south side of the railroad track and 
Warm Spring creek, close beyond which the bluffs rise 011 a slope 
of one to one and a half feet; here is located the Anaconda smelter 
and concentrator, built on the slope with rail tracks belozv and 
above the works. By this arrangement ore, coal and wood are 



180 WARM SPRINGS — DEER LODGE. 

moved by gravity from the upper track, while the bullion bars 
reach the cars on the lower track — all without handling. 

When the smelting company commenced building their works 
in 1884, there was not a settler in the vicinity. The first works 
consisted in part of one 14-stack smelter, building 498 feet long; 
one 12-stack smelter, building 390 feet; one calciner, 350 feet, and 
one cenceutrator, building 240 feet long; besides a great number of 
smaller buildings. Total cost, $1,000,000. Capacity, 500 tons per day, 
operated by water from Warm Spring creek. The ores treated here 
come over the railroad from the Anaconda mine at Butte City. 

Subsequently, in 1885-'7, the capacity of these works was 
doubled by building an additional plant. The company is now 
capable of producing 68,000,000 pounds of pure copper annually, 
using 75,000 tons of coal and 48,000 cords of wood. The product 
of the works for 1887 was $5,200,000 — the largest in the world. 

The town contains stores and shops of all kinds, and from the 
amount of money paid out monthly by the smelting company, one 
might readily conclude that all the citizens would have their 
pockets full of coin. 

In the territory of Montana there are stamp mills aggregating 
975 stamps, and 11 smelting plants, with a capacity of 4,430 tons 
every 24 hours. 

From Stuart junction, passing down the beautiful and produc- 
tive valley of Deer Lodge, it is seven miles to 

Warm Spring' 1 * — [From Butte City, 25 miles; Deer Lodge, 15 miles]. 
Here in the centre of Deer Lodge valley are 18 springs varying in 
temperature from 115 to 194 degrees. 

The wonderful cone-shaped spring, with an elevated natural tank 
42 feet in height and 400 feet in diameter, is a curiosity unparalled. 

The achievements of these medicinal waters have been so great 
that extensive accommodations have been provided by erecting a 
large hotel and bath-houses. 

The analysis of the waters are: Iron, 21 per cent. ; chloride of 
sodium, eight and one half per cent.; magnesia, nine per cent, 
with a trace of arsenic. 

All trains stop at Warm Springs station, and no traveler should 
pass without paying this famous place a visit. 

Passengers are scarcely recovered from their* wild curiosity at 
the sight of the big cone-shaped spring with its bubbling crest, 
when the brakeman shouts 

"Deer Lodge " — Ah! that name \ To old Montanians, 
Deer Lodge is a dear old town, abounding in dear recollections, 
the residence of many dear friends; in fact, it is the center at this 
time for many deers. It is the seat of Lodge county, on Deer 
Lodge river, near the center of Deer Lodge valley, and, until the 
gold excitement of 1862-3, was known only by our dear Indian 
brother as the lodge of the white-tail deer, hence the name. 

This was long before this dear country was known to the gold 
hunting "pilgrims." 

Of the industries, churches, schools, etc., etc., they are diversi- 
fied, prosperous and of a high order. 

Deer Lodge, although one of the oldest towns in Montana, has 
not increased in population with the rapidity of many younger places 
but its growth has been permanent and substantial. Present popu- 
lation, about 2,000. The city contains stores and shops of all kinds. 



DEER LODGE VALLEY. 181 

Stock-raising is one of the greatest industries, wool being one 
of the most important products among the shipments. 

The McBurney is the principal hotel, and the New Northwest 
the best weekly newspaper in the territory. 

DEER Lodge Valley — Is one of the richest and most produc- 
tive in Montana; with abundance of water for irrigation produces 
large returns in cereals of all kinds. The valleys, uplands, and 
mountain foot-hills are covered with the richest grasses, upon 
which feed large herds of cattle, horses aud sheep. Game — both 
haired and feathered — is abundant in the adjoining mountains; as 
well as trout and other fish in all the streams. 



COLLEGE of Montana — the pride of the people of Montana — 
is located at Deer Lodge, half a mile southeast of the business center, 
on a plateau comprising a few hundred acres elevated 1 00 feet 
above the town, commanding a very extensive view of the sur- 
rounding country, and is the only institution of the kind in the 
territory or within 500 miles. The buildings are extensive and 
modern; its furniture, apparatus and instruments new and com- 
plete, and its various courses of study are equal to those of any 
other institution — east or west. The grounds comprise about 20 
acres within the village limits. The buildings are brick, large and 
roomy, and command a view of the lovely valley of Deer Lodge for 
nearly 30 miles, interrupted only by the picturesque mountains 
which are round about, with their lofty peaks over 13,000 feet 
above sea level, where is visible at all seasons God's mantle of 
purity — the everlasting snow. 

The altitude of Deer Lodge is 4,532 feet — the air pure and in- 
vigorating — the climate all that could be desired, neither exces- 
sively warm in summer nor too cool in winter; in fact, it seems 
particularly favorable to the rapid development of the intellectual 
faculties. Here, young people can pursue their studies surrounded 
by an atmosphere of as moral and refined society as can be found 
in any New England town, and free from the allurements and 
temptations incidental to a large city. When these, and other 
advantages are generally understood in the east, the buildings of 
the "College of Montana" will need to be greatly enlarged. 



Leaving Deer Lodge and following down the beautiful valley, 
where fine farms and comfortable farm-houses are the rule, nine 
miles brings our train to the end of the road and the end of this 
tour, at the little wayside station of 

OftI*ri§OIl — [From Poeatello, 318 miles; Helena, 49 miles; elevation, 
4,338 feet].— is situated on Deer Lodge river at the junction of the 
Montana Union with the Northern Pacific, another great railroad 
line. But we cannot extend our wanderings in this direction any 
further, aud shall now return to Poeatello, and start once more on 
our main tour— west. 

A Vassar girl's composition:— "A cow is an animal with four legs on the 
underside. The tail is longer than the legs, but is not used to stand on. The 
cow kills flies with its tail. A cow has big ears that wiggle on hinges; so 
does their tail. The cow is bigger than the calf, but not so big as an elephant. 
She is made so small that she can go in the barn when nobody is looking. 
Some cows are black, and some hook. A dog was hooked once. She tossed the 
dog that worried the cat that killed the rat. Black cows give white milk; so do 
other cows. Milkmen sell milk to buy their little girls dresses, which they put 
in water and chalk. Cows chew cuds, and each finds its own chew. That is all 
there is about cows." 



182 DOWN SNAKE RIVER. 



AGAIIV WFSTWARD-Froin I'ocatcllo. 



Leaving Pocatello our direction is westward, crossing a broad 
sage-brush plain, the Shoshone and Bannock reservation, occupied 
exclusively as a stock range; passing the following stations, accord- 
ing to the time card: MTCHAUD [eight miles], BANNOCK [three miles], 
where Bannock creek is crossed, Sunshine [four miles], and then 
[ten miles] comes the 

American Falls— Station — [pop., 50; from pocatello, 25 miles; ele- 
vation, 4,341 feet]. — Is situated on the south bank of the Snake river, 
just above the falls of that name, in the northwest corner of Oneida 
county, Idaho, of which Malad City is the seat. It contains one 
general merchandise store. The principal business iu this region 
is stock-raising; some farming is done along the river. 

The shipments for the year ending June 30, 1888, in tons were: 
( Train, 256; live-stock, 840; miscellaneous products, 60. Total, 

1 , 1 52 tons. 

Connections— Mail hack: South to Rockland. 22 miles, twice a week. 



Three Buttes — prominent peaks, are in plain view, 44 miles 
away, as the "bird flies." 

American Faee.s — Immediately after leaving the station and 
while crossing to the north side of the Snake river on a fine iron 
bridge, these falls appear on the left. The river here tumbles over 
a ridge of basaltic rocks in a series of drops from five to 15 feet 
each, aggregating within a hundred yards a fall of about 75 feet. 
At certain stages of the water the falls present a very interesting 
picture, and at all times making more noise than many others that 
are more pretentious. — See opposite page. 

American Faees Bridge — Is a "deck" bridge, two wooden 
spans I6O2 feet each in length; one wooden span 180 feet long, and 
one iron span 250 feet long. Height of rail above ordinary stage 
of water, 75 feet; height above high water-mark, 45 feet. 

Leaving American Falls and proceeding westward, we enter the 
great Snake RIVER eava fieeds. These fields are of vast pro- 
portions, extending from Beaver canon to the northeast, all along 
the north side of the Snake river in the shape of a great semi-circle 
to near the western border of the territory, varying in width from 
ten to 60 miles. These "fields" are very generally covered with 
a rank growth of sage-brush and grease-wood and sandwiched with 
"bunch" and other excellent and luxuriant grasses. Lava in im- 
mense beds, buttes, knolls, dykes and ridges appear in places over 
the whole tract. The question is often asked: "Where does all the 
lava come from as there are no volcanic mountains for hundreds 
of miles?" But the question is still unanswered. There is no ques- 
tion, however, but the whole area was once a simmering mass, 
that, being submerged iu water, resulted in many curious fractures 
and deep crevices, into some of which a stone being dropped will 
go clinking from side to side down, down, until the noise gradually 
dies away, apparently without bottom being reached, or thud it 
may go into the water. These cracks, crevices and chasms are 
from a few inches to many feet in width, extending for many miles. 
On this vast tract are many springs, and a number of good-sized 
creeks, which come down from the northern mountains to get lost 
or sink in these lava fields. 




AMERICAN FALLS AND BRIDGE. 



In places along the creeks where water can be had for irrigation 
without its sinking, the land has been taken up by settlers and the 
yield of all kinds of crops is as good as in any part of the west- 
ern country. 



18-4 SHOSHONE — NORTHWARD. 



On this vast tract there is no question of the fertility of 
the soil for agricultural purposes, neither is there any lack of water 
in streams high enough to irrigate the lauds, but the great prob- 
lem, how to get the water over the lauds, is the one that must be 
solved before any considerable portion of it can ever be more than 
a good stock range. 

There! while we have been talking about the lava fields, the 
train has passed NapaTI [nine miles] and Wapi [eight miles], and has 
just completed the run [16 miles] to 

Minidoka — A side-track station, in Alturas county, where 
the stage connections are of far more importance than the station. 

Connections — Mail hack: South to Albion, 30 miles; thence west to 
Thatcher, 15 miles; thence south to Island, ten" miles; thence southwest 
to Marion, five miles; thence south to Oakley, five miles; thence east to Basin, 
seven miles, three times a week. 

From Albion, mail coach daily, southeast to Conant, 15 miles; Bridge, ii 
miles, and Kelton, on C. P. R. R., 35 miles. 

From Bridge, mail hack north to Malta, 14 miles; thence east to Subletto, 
15 miles, twice a week. 

From Bridge, mail southwest to Earncliff, nine miles; Almo, 19 miles, 
once a week. 

From Earncliff", mail southwest to Yost, ten miles, once a week. 



There will be little change in the landscape or country for the 
next 47 miles from that passed over in the last 30 miles; lava 
knolls and sage, paper stations and rock cuts, comprise the route 
as our train rolls by Omani [eight miles], Kimama [nine miles], 
OWINZA [14 miles], WAUCANZA [eight miles] and stops [eight miles] at 

SllOSllOlie — [Pop., 800; from Pocatello, 10S miles; Huntington, 219 miles; 
Hailey, 57 miles; Ketchum, 70 miles; elevation, 3,973 feet]. — Is Situated OH 
Little Wood river, in Alturas county, at the junction of the Wood 
river branch. The railroad company have quite extensive 
machine shops here, employing about 250 men. There are a num- 
ber of good stone business blocks and stores and shops of different 
kinds. Two churches, a good school, two hotels — the Dewey and the 
Falls — and one weekly paper, the Journal. At this place we find 
a "telephone" hotel (the first on our tour) of which more anon. 

Stock-raising is the chief industry in this region; the shipments 
ending June 30, 1888, were 1,315 tons, of which 570 tons were live- 
stock, and 148 tons grain. 

Connections — Rail: The Wood river branch of the Union Pacific system; 
also mail hack, southeast twice a week to Shoshone Falls, 25 miles; thence 
southward to Rock Creek, 12 miles; thence east to Thatcher, iS miles; thence 
north to Jessie, nine miles. In the tourist season a stage coach runs daily 
between Shoshone and Shoshone Falls; fare. $3, or $5 for the "round trip." See 
description of Shoshone Falls, further on. 

Side Tour No. 12 — From Shoshone northward to 
Belxevue, and Haieey to Ketchum. 

There is only one passenger train a day over this line, and that 
usually leaves Shoshone in the morning, runs to Ketchum for noon 
meal and returns to Shoshone in the evening. 



Leaving Shoshone the road follows up Little Wood river north- 
east, crossing and recrossing it a number of times, and dodging 
around lava ridges, knolls and buttes, passing an occasional set- 
tler's cabin, with a little patch of land cleared of the rank sage- 
shrub and cultivated — raising hay and vegetables principally. 

The stations for 'IS) miles are on paper, but do not materialize; 
hence shall be nameless. 




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and inspect the mag- 
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And Machine and Vehicle Specialties and Supplies of every 
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NEW MARKET BLOCK, 

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MOSCOW, IDAHO. 
LA GRANDE, OREGON. 




No. 5. 
















CAPE HORN. 



See Pace 250. 




COLUMBIA RIYER. 



Wasl)ir\gtori Territory 



Angus Mackintosh Prest. Abram Barker, Vice-Prest. 

R. N. McFadden, Cashier. 

Merchants' National Bank 



Of SEATTLE, W.T. 

UNITED STATES DEPOSITORY. 



Capital, $100,000. Surplus and Profits, $20,000. 



We receive accounts of Banks, Bankers, Corporations, Manufact- 
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be pleased to meet or correspond with those who 
may contemplate opening accounts. 



Collections carefully made and promptly accounted for on 
moderate terms. 

Foreign Exchange Bought and Sold. 

Circular Letters of Credit. 

Telegraphic and Cable Transfers. 



For bargains in 

REAL ESTATE; 

For F\REE descriptive matter of 

WASHINGTON TERRITORY 

AND OK ITS 

CHIEF CITY, SEATTLE, 

Or, for the best route to reach, this City, 
write to 

ESHELMAN, LLEWELLYN & CO. 

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON TER. 



WOOD RIVER — CAMAS PRAIRIE. 185 

l'iUlll';i — [Pop., 90; from Shoshone, 29 miles; Bellevue, 22 miles]. — Is a 
little hamlet of farmers and stock-raisers to the right of the road 
on Little Wood river. Hay is the principal crop, although vege- 
tables arid small grain are grown to some extent. Shipments of 
grain for the season, 307 tons. 

Turning now to the northwest, the lava country gradually 
changes, and as our train emerges from a long deep cut a beauti- 
ful valley is spread out before it, and the conductor shouts 
"Picabo!" the brakeman shouts "Picabo!" the passengers take up 
the refrain and say "Picabo." Then the train stops at 

Picabo — Station— and the joke is so good that "Picabo" was 
on the tongue of everybody from that time whenever any surprising 
bit of scenery suddenly appeared. 

IvEDUC — Is the post office name for Picabo. [From Tikura, eight 
miles; Bellevue, 14 miles; pop., 50]. — Situated on Silver creek in the 
midst of extensive hay meadows, the finest seen for main- a mile. 

Connections — Mail hack: East toCARV, 12 miles, once a week. 



As we proceed the valley widens; Silver creek comes down on 
the east side and Wood river on the west side, between which is the 
finest body of land yet seen in Idaho. From half a mile in width 
at Picabo the valley spreads out, within six miles, to a width of ten 
miles then gradually narrows within 20 miles, to half a mile in width. 
This is the northern and eastern portion of the famed 

Wood River Vaeley and Camas Prairie country. The for- 
mer is from one to ten miles wide and 50 miles long, the latter 70 
miles long and 20 miles wide; collectively, they are the beau ideal 
of a farming and stock-raising country. The soil is a rich black 
loam, with a clay sub-soil which is said to hold water aud moist- 
ure to a marvellous degree, making irrigation unnecessary. Yet 
abundance of water can be had from the streams for irrigation, and 
by wells in from three to ten feet from the surface. 

Those who have had the opportunity for knowing and are 
disinterested say: "The numerous creeks which are flowing 
through this region keep the clay soil wet, so that however dry 
the top may look, you will always find plenty of moisture within 
a few inches of the surface. This condition of soil renders the 
lands very productive. Immense crops of oats, wheat, barley and 
all small grains, and all kinds of vegetables and fruits can be grown 
easily and to great profit. The natural grasses yield wonderful 
crops of hay, and tame grasses, wherever tried, flourish amazinglv. 
Timothy, alfalfa and clover make great crops, and the former has 
been known to yield three tons to the acre. " Gov. Stephenson, 
in his report to the Secretary of the Interior for 1888, says: "On 
the Spring Brook ranch, the home of Hon. John Hailey, I saw last 
month a field of timothy sown last April standing three feet high, 
and so thick that you could scarcely part it with your hand to see 
the ground. There were cut and weighed four and a half tons of 
thoroughly cured clean timothy hay per acre. A field of timothv, 
five months from the seed, yielding four and a half tons of cured 
hay per acre is hard to believe, but it is nevertheless true." 

At Armstrong's ranch, in 1886, five acres of volunteer wheat 
yielded 522 bushels, or at the rate of one hundred and four bushels 
per acre. Volunteer wheat yields are recorded in a number of 
instances, which amounted to 75 bushels per acre. The soil is so 



186 ON WOOD RIVRR BRANCH. 

well adapted to the raising of potatoes and vegetables that a yield 
less than one ton of potatoes per acre is a great disappointment, 
while of rutabagas, carrots, etc., less than two tons is not consid- 
ered an average crop. Barley yields are a matter of record, where 
the product amounted to 65 bushels to the acre, without any 
irrigation. 

Alturas County, in which the Wood river and Camas prairie 
country is located, is 190 miles in length and varying from 60 to 
120 miles in width, and has almost any desired climate that may 
be selected at the different points of elevation. 

All fruits and grain pertaining to the temperate zone can be 
cultivated successfully and in almost unlimited quantities. 

There can be no better stock-raising country found on the con- 
tinent, affording in the high mountains the finest summer ranges, 
and the lower plains can scarcely be excelled for winter grazing. 
[Pop., 16,250]. Assessed valuation, $3,737,552. There are 16 
quartz-mills. 16 concentrators, four samplers and four smelters in 
the county. Of cattle, 23,835; horses, 7,363; mules, 183; sheep, 
31,1)41, and hogs, 1,622 head. The principal towns are Hailey, the 
county seat ; Bellevue, Ketchum, Atlanta, Shoshone, Mountain 
Home, Rockv Bar and Pine Grove. As her valleys are rich and 
productive, so are her mountains seamed with rich gold, silver, 
lead, copper and other minerals. Fish and game are also abund- 
ant in the streams and mountains. 



BcliOVIlO — [Pop.. 1. 'too; from Shoshone, 52 miles; Hailey, five miles; 
elevation. 5,171 feet]. — .Settled in 1880. Situated in the beautiful valley 
of Wood river; has water works, and water running through all 
the streets, which are bordered by shade trees; it has four churches 
and good schools, one bank, one ore sampler, a large flouring-mill, 
three hotels — International and Arlington are the principal ones — 
and (.tie weekly newspaper, the Herald. There are a number of 
brick buildings and many neat private residences. Bellevue has 
an elegant "driving park " and the citizens some lively steppers. 
Mining is the principal industry. The total shipments for the 
year ending June 30, 1888, amounted to 7,131 tons — of which 6,892 
tons were ore, 76 tons grain, and 41 tons stone and cement. 

Connections— Mail hack: West, daily to Broadford, two miles. 

To the east, Era, 32 miles, once a week. 

To the northeast, Mn.noox, 22 miles, once a week. 

To the southwest. Stan ion, ii miles, twice a week. 

!l;lih'> — [Pop., 2,150; from Bellevue. five miles; Ketchum, 12 miles; 
elevation, 5,342 feet].— Settled in 1881. Is the seat of Alturas county, 
situated in the northern end of Wood river valley, which is here 
about one mile wide, between high grass-covered mountains rising 
to a 1,000 feet or more above the valley. Wood river runs to the 
west of the town beside the mountain, from which a gradual slope 
or terrace rises to the eastward, upon which stands the business 
portion of Hailey. 

Water works, canals and ditches supply the town with water 
for domestic and irrigating purposes. Water runs through all the 
principal streets and into the gardens and grounds of the citizens. 
The w T alks are lined with shade and ornamental trees, and the 
streets kept free from dust by timely sprinkling. 

Brick buildings are the rule here. Many of the business blocks 
are as large and fine as can be found anywhere in the western 
cities, and an energetic Board of Trade is ever on the alert in the 



HAILEY — HOT SPRINGS. 187 

interest of progress and development. There are four churches 
here and one large handsome school building which cost $35,000; 
stores and shops of all kinds, one sampling, one iron works, 
and one, saw-mill, three hotels — Alturas and Merchants' are the 
principal ones — one theatre and two daily and weekly newspapers, 
the Tillies and the News-Miner; also electric light, telephone, etc. 

The county court house is a fine building of brick and stone ; 
cost, $50,000. 

The timber supply within ten miles of Hailey is abundant. 

Land Office— The U. S. land office for the district of Hailey 
is located here and the records show 19,000,(100 acres in the dis- 
trict, of which less than 1,000,0(10 have been surveyed. Much of 
this land is as valuable as any in Idaho, and can be taken up under 
any of the existing land laws. 

\V\TER Power — The water power of Wood river comprises 
100,000 miners' inches, and affords ample power for driving mills, 
machinery, etc., etc. 

Drives — The drives are admirable. Natural roads lead from the 
town to the overlooking ridges of mountains in the vicinity, 
through scenery which, for picturesqueness, ruggedness and grand- 
eur can hardlv be excelled. 

.Shipments — The shipments from Hailey for the year ending 
June 30, 1888, amounted to 3,146 tons — of which 2.01:2 tons were 
ores, 33 tons grain, 20 tons hides, and 13 tons wool. 

In conclusion, for much valuable information, kind words and 
attention on our late visit to Hailey. we are under special obliga- 
tions to Mr. Robert E. Strahorn, one of the first among the early 
pioneers to appreciate and make known the wonderful resources 
of the country, and T. E. Picotte, Esq., editor and proprietor of 
the Wood River Times, a daily journal loaded with more vim, 
nerve and push than am in the west. 



Connections — Mail hack: Southwest to Gilman four miles; thence north 
to Bullion, two miles, daily. To the southwest to Donaphan, 12 miles Hays. 
ten miles; Humphries, nine miles; Grichton, seven miles; Soldier, six miles, 
and Corrall, five miles, three times a week. 



Hailey Hot Springs — One and a half mile west from Hailey, 
in plain view from the Alturas house, are the famous Hailey hot 
springs, in a most charming little park or glen, overlooked by high 
mountains, in the sides of which are numerous mining shafts and 
tunnels in plain view from the springs. 

Large volumes of water, of a temperature of 150° and containing 
sulphate of soda, iron, magnesia, sulphur and other desirable in- 
gredients are emitted from scores of springs. Commodious swim- 
ming baths are provided. It is said that many patients have gone 
to these springs with chronic cases, believed to be hopeless, of 
neuralgia, paralysis, dyspepsia, inflammatory or mercurial rheu- 
matism and other complaints for which the Arkansas springs are 
considered a specific, and after a few months of bathing and drink- 
ing have left completely restored. The baths are also very popular 
with those in good health, thousands visiting them anuually for the 
delightful effect of a plunge. In the summer of 1888 these springs 
and 800 acres of land in the vicinity were purchased by Chicago cap- 
italists and a grand plan of improvements commenced. They con- 
sist in part of a pavilion 50 by 105 feet, two stories and basement, in 
which there are large and small bath rooms, ball room, parlor, dining 



188 KETCHUM — IDAHO. 



room, billiard roorn, ten-pin alley and rooms for persons to rest in 
after bathing. The bath tubs are porcelain, and all else in keeping 
with them. The new buildings are located on the flat a half mile 
below the springs, within sight of Hailey, and the grounds are being 
laid off and cultivated in the highest style of landscape art so as to 
make the place as attractive as possible. The new buildings are 
not used as a hotel, any further than serving with the finest lunches 
and temporary rest after bathing, while there are ample arrange- 
ments for amusements. A complete system of water works is 
being put in for the buildings and grounds. These improvements 
will cause an outlay of $40,000, and are to be finished during the 
present season. There will be on the grounds three lakes, one 
for outside swimming and bathing, and the other two for the 
cultivation of trout and other fish, and boating. Thousands of 
trees are being planted on the grounds, about the springs and around 
the buildings, and it will not be long before this will become a 
most delightful resort. The company own 150 registered pedigreed 
short horn cattle, said to be the largest pedigreed herd west of Iowa. 

The entire investment, aggregating $70,000, is made by Robert 
Strahorn & Co., the senior partner of whom is well known in 
connection with the Chicago stock yards, and the junior of the lit- 
erary department of the Union Pacific railway. The latter is in 
charge at the springs. Hourly carriages from Hailey. 

g@T*As a center for hunting and fishing tours Hailey is unriv- 
alled. Could you secure Mr. Strahorn as a companion and guide 
the outing would ever live in pleasant memory. 



Leaving Hailey and following along up Wood river north, the 
valley is gradually crowded to a narrow strip and finally com- 
pletely out, by towering mountains upon each side, the black walls 
of which, in places, stand sheer 1,000 feet above the train ; in others, 
groves of pines and firs darken the narrow way and rise full ten 
score feet above the road and the roaring river by its side. And 
so we go to 

KetcllUlll — [Pop , 1,250; from Hailey, 12 miles, Shoshone. 69 miles; ele- 
vation, 5,823 feet], — Is in Alturas county, situated on Wood river, at 
the end of the Wood river branch of the Union Pacific railway. 
One of the largest smelting works in Idaho is located on the west- 
ern edge of the town. 

Ketchum has four churches, a school building that cost $12,000, 
a hall that seats 800 persons, two saw-mills, one bank, one brewery, 
one weekly newspaper — the Keystone — and two hotels, the Palace 
and Baxter; also general merchandise stores, shops, etc. 

Fishing and hunting near Ketchum are all that the most greedy 
sportsman could des're. Trout are abundant. 

The shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1888, amounted 
to 3,380 tons — of which the principal items were: Bullion and lead, 
1,697 tons; ores, 1,588 tons, and lumber, 483 tons. 

The mountains and h!lls are mostly grassed to their summits 
with the most nutritious feed on which stock do well in summer, 
and for winter, they are driven to the valley. 

Connections— Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Dicker . 35 miles. [See under 
"Blackfoot."| 

North, mail hack three times a week to Boulder, [2 miles; thence north- 
west to Galena. 12 miles. 

Southwest, three times a week to Smoky, 28 miles; south to H \\s. 25 miles. 
[See under "Hailey."] 




Mining and lumbering are about the only industries. The town 
is surrounded by small mining camps. One can see "jack trains" 
(burros) stringing down over the hills loaded with ore, and 
others loading at the depot with merchandise for the mines. These 
trains number as high as 100 animals in a train, and tramp off for 
hours at a time, loaded with from 150 to 2o0 pounds in weight. 

Large freight teams, six and eight span of mules, are also to be 
seen which haul merchandise and ores between this and distant 
towns to the north, west and east. The ores carry silver and lead 
principally. 

Guyer Hot Sulphur Springs— Are a great attraction at Ket- 
chum. They are located two and a half miles west from the town 
on Warm Spring creek, in a wild and romantic glen. The waters 
fairly gush from numerous crevices in the rocks, and where not 
controlled, drop in little cascades to the creek below, some 30 feet 
or more. 

The waters of these springs are said to be specially valuable 
for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, gout, liver complaints, and 
impurities of the blood; bathing in and drinking the water effect 
wonderful improvement, if not cures, within a very short time. 

The improvements at the springs are a fine hotel well furnished, 
with accomtnodations-for 30 persons, with reception, dining and 
billiard-rooms, extensive stables, cottages for guests, two plunge 
baths, 30x60 feet, and a number of tub baths. The water is con- 
veyed through pipes from the springs above to the several bath- 
houses, and is so arranged that any desired temperature can be 



100 TO SHOSHONE FALLS. 



had. Some neatly furnished sleeping rooms have baths attached, 
so that patients who desire can have all the benefits of these 
waters without any exposure to the outer air, or without necessi- 
tating leaving their rooms. 

Analysis — The following is the analysis of the waters from a 

distinguished chemist : 

Bellevue Hospital Medical College, i 
New York, August 9, 1S82. 1 
The sample ot mineral water from the boilitg springs of Ketchum, Idaho, 
sent me, yields an analysis — 

Sodium Chloride, grains per Imp. gal 3,578 

Sodium Carbonate " 9,965 

Calcium Sulphate, " 6,574 

Magnesium Sulphate '" " : 0,534 

Magnesium Chloride " " " 0,914 

Organic matter, with tracesof iron and silica 1,240 

Total Solids 22,805 

Yours respectfully, 

K. OGDBN DOREMTJS, M.D., LL.D. 
Prof. Chemistry and Toxicology in Bellevue Hospital Medical College. 

Temperature of water, 165 Fahr. 

The scenery in the vicinity of these springs is exceptionally 
grand, as is the trout fishing in the streams. 



Returning to Shoshone, we start for the south — by stage. 

Side Tour Xo. 13 — From Shoshone southeast to the 
Great Shoshone Falls.— (.sir large view No. j.) 

During the tourist season a "coach and four" leaves Shoshone 
every morning for the falls. Sometimes parties prefer chartering 
a special outfit with driver, others take saddle animals. The latter 
plan is the best, provided a good horse can be obtained and one is 
accustomed to riding. 

This tour is sure to be a dusty one, hence a close fitting duster 
is worth many times its price for this trip alone. 

The scenery on the way is not very interesting, unless lava beds, 
buttes and knolls, garnished with sage-brush and peppered with 
the basis of creation, are of interest. And, by the way, if dust is 
an essential element in the creation of human beings, Idaho and 
eastern Oregon at certain seasons could furnish an immense 
amount of raw material . 

The Shoshone canon is nearly 70 miles in length, and besides 
numerous rapids and small cascades, has two very notable falls. 
The first from the east is known as 

Twin Falls — Sometimes called "Upper Shoshone;" they are 
three miles above the great falls, and have a single leap of ISO feet. 
lust above the falls, about midway the stream, is situated a tongue- 
shapedrock which divides the river into two narrow channels, each 
about 7-"> feet in width, through which the waters rush with great 
velocity. The rapids below the falls only extend a few hundred 
yards and then the stream becomes smooth and apparently almost 
still. At this point, near midway between the greater and lesser 
falls, is the 

PERRY Crossing — Established here nearly 20years ago, Near 
at hand is the ferryman's Cottage-hotel, which, until recently, has 
been the only house of entertainment for the traveler in this vicin- 
ity. A wagon rpad has been cut in the northern wall of the canon, 
materially shortening the distance to the ferry over that by the 
old trail. Crossing the river to the south side we find a large hotel 



GREAT SNAKE RIVER FAEES. 101 

A 

recently erected, and admirably located to afford the most exten- 
sive views of much of the most beautiful and interesting scenery. 

Below the ferry, a short distance, the river contracts to a width 
of about 600 feet, and rapids follow to the final jump. 

Rushing on towards the brink of the great fall the river seems 
to divide its forces and dodge around a trio of little rocky islands. 
In its mad career it becomes very turbulent, jumping here and 
there, forming a number of little cascades. Two of the largest are 
called "Bridal Veil" and "Bridal Trail," the drop being about 80 
feet each. It is said the name was suggested by portions of the 
river pouring over in lace-like forms, a resemblance, as the water 
and spray glistened in the sunlight, to a royal bride's veil and trail. 

Now should any betrothed ever take f/iaf "trail" she never 
would survive to take the "veil." 

The width of the river at the point of taking the last leap is 
about 000 feet; the fall, 220 feet. Before the river reaches the 
cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close in around it, until 
but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 1,000 feet 
below the tops of the bluffs. The most complete view of the falls 
is obtained from Lookout point, a narrow spit of rocks which pro- 
jects from the main bluffs a short distance down the stream from 
the falls. From this point Eagle rock rises before us, in the midst 
of the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high — 
its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, where, year after 
year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near the center 
of the river are several islands covered with cedar, the largest one 
being called Ballard's island. Two rocky points, one on either 
side of the falls, are called the Two .Sentinels, as they are ever over- 
looking the "veil" and the "trail." Except in point of shape and 
volume of water, the falls will compare favorably with Niagara. 

The river below the falls is very deep. The right bank sinks 
into the water in a clear sharp precipice, but ou the left side a 
narrow pebbly beach extends along the foot of the cliff. From 
the top of the wall, at a point a quarter of a mile below the falls, a 
stream has gradually worn a little stairway down to the river; thick 
growths of evergreens have nestled together in this ravine. Under 
the influence of the cool shadow of the cliffs and the pines, and 
constant percolating of surface waters, a rare fertility is developed 
in the ravines opening upon the shore of the canon. A luxuriance 
of ferns and mosses, an almost tropical wealth of green leaves and 
velvety carpeting line the banks. 

Immense volumes of foam roll up from the cataract base, and 
whirl about in the eddying winds, rising often a thousand feet. 
When the wind blows down the canon, a gray mist obscures the 
river for half a mile; and when, as is usually the case in the after- 
noon, the breeze blows eastward, the foam cloud curls over the 
brink of the fall and hangs like a veil over the upper river. The 
incessant roar, reinforced by a thousand echoes, fills the canon. 

Niagara river falls 228 feet in 23 miles; Shoshone, 500 in five miles. 

In ravines, nooks and glens about the river and falls grow pines, 
cedars, shrubs, grass, mosses, vines and, in season, countless flow- 
ers, while hawks and bats make their home in the numberless 
caves and crevices in the canon walls. 

To make this tour and visit the various objects of interest, at 
least three days should be provided for. 



192 GLENN'S FERRY — MOUNTAIN HOME. 



AGAIN WESTWARD. 



RETURNING to Shoshone — we start again for the west, fol- 
lowing down Little Wood river, passing the small side-track 
stations of Tcnupa [nine miles] and Toponis [six miles], where there 
are two stores, a few settlers, farmers, stock-raisers, and hay 
meadows, cross Wood river and reach 

BHk* — [13 miles]. — A small station, with one general merchan- 
dise store and a few farmers and stock-growers in the vicinity. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southeast, once a week to Salmon Falls, 22 
miles; Paynes, eight miles, and Bliss, six miles— all situated on the south side 

of Snake river. 

The canon cliffs of Snake river now appear on the left and our 
train descends to the banks of that river, passing TlCESKA [seven 
miles], and King's Hir.,1, [eight miles], crossing Clover and Little 
Camas creeks at their junction with the Snake, and skirting the 
north bank and sloping bluffs of the Snake to a meal station 
[eight miles] 

Cileilll'S Ferrj" — [Pop.. 250; from Pocatello. 160 miles; elevation, 
2,564 feet]. — This station was named for the old ferry located near. 
This ferrv is one of the most frequented on Snake river. The 
wagon roads from the north and from the south — Bruneau valley 
country — center at this ferry. It is in Alturas county, the termi- 
nus of two divisions of the railroad and a regular meal station for 
all through trains. Two stores, several shops and saloons comprise 
the town. The shipments are light — grain and wool principally. 

Our train in leaving starts with a tandem team — two engines — 
rolling along down the river to Medbury [« miles], where com- 
mences the "Medford grade," climbing and serpentining around 
the bluffs to REVERSE [nine miles], where one of the engines is left, 
having gained an altitude, in nine miles, of 590 feet. 

In climbing the "grade" several long curves are made around 
the points of bluffs, affording extensive views of the country to the 
south of the Snake as well as two and three parallel lines at a time 
of the rail-track below, over which our train has been running 
from Medbury to gain its present elevation. 

Mountain HoillC — [Pop.. 160: from Glenn's Ferry. 30 miles; eleva- 
tion, 5.145 feet j. — rs situated on a broad sage-brush plain, between 
Canon and Rattlesnake creeks, in the midst of 100, 000 acres of as 
good agricultural land as Idaho can afford. 

Some of these lands will raise crops without irrigation. Others 
must be watered. A number of wind-mills are to be seen in oper- 
ation in irrigating farms. Recently a company has commenced 
building canals and ditches with a view of bringing under cultiva- 
tion the greater portion of this immense tract, more than half of 
which is yet government land, subject to entry under the general 
land laws. 

The station consists of two general stores, several restaurants, 
shops and saloons, and two hotels — the Turner and Elsmore. 
There are a number of good brick buildings. The shipments for 
the year ending June 80th, 1888, amounted to 1,017 tons — of which 
733 tons were wheat, and 177 tons wool. 



NAMPA — IDAHO. 



193 



Mountain Home, from its natural position in the midst of great 
agricultural and stock-raising advantages, has a future of much 
greater promise than any station yet reached on the main line of 
the railroad west of Pocatello. 

Connections— Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Pine, 45 miles; thence north 
to Rocky Bar, 20 miles; from thence, three times a week, mail hack to 
Atlanta, 18 miles. 

To the southward — Mail hack, three times a week to Bruneau Valley, 20 
miles; thence northwest to Grand View, 26 miles; thence west to Castle 
Creek, 15 miles, and Oreana, eight miles. 

From Bruneau Valley, southward to Three Creeks, 80 miles, once a week. 



Leaving Mountain Home the direction is to the northwest across 
the broad table lands named above, upon which ' ' time cards ' ' 
name the following stations and distances between: ClEFFT [h 
miles], NAMEKO [eight miles], BlSUKA [seven miles], OWYHEE [seven 
miles], MORA [eight miles], on Indian creek, and 

KlIIlSl— [Four miles; elevation, 2,684 feet].— This station is a very 
small one situated at the western foot of the grade leading down 
from the great table lands, in which Mountain Home is a center. 
The grade commenced 12 miles east; the descent is 461 feet. 

Kuna, before the railroad, was the most important stage station 
011 the stage road between Boise City to the northeast, and Silver 
City and Wiuuemucca on the Central Pacific railroad, in Nevada, 
230 miles distant. 

Shipments for the year ending June 30, 1888, 411 tons, chiefly 
wool, 61 tons; lumber, 60; ore, 14, and wheat, 12 tons. 

\<II1I|>;1 — [Pop. ,300; from Pocatello, 245 miles; Boise City, 19 miles, Cald- 
well, seven miles; Huntington, Oregon, 88 miles; elevation, 2,487 feet]. — Is in 
Ada county, situated at the junction of the Idaho Central railroad 
with the Oregon Short Line, on a broad plain which gradually 
slopes away to the Snake river, 15 miles, southward. The town is 
regularly platted and the streets graded. It contains three general 
merchandise stores and an unusual n nuber of stores and shops in 
proportion to the size of the place. There are several hotels, chief 
of which is the Barnard, and one weekly newspaper, the Progress. 

The surrounding country is a broad sage brush plain with gentle 
rolling hills, and with water for irrigation would be as productive 
as any portion of the territory. The principal shipments are live 
stock, lumber, wool, hides and wheat. 

Connections — By rail to Boise City daily; by mail coach, south daily for 
Walters. 18 miles; Reynolds, 14 miles; Silver City, 15 miles; thence west 
to Jordan Valley 7 , 24 miles. 

From Jordan Valley south, once a week to Dairy, 20 miles. 

From Nampa southwest to Central, 15 miles, once a week. 




castle geyser. 



fire basin 



194 GRAND ENTERPRISE — GRAND VIEW. 



»;<mm:, tsib: beautiful.: 



Side Tour No. 14— From Nampa to Boise City and 
Boise Basin. 

In making this tour we take the cars of the Idaho Central 
railroad which runs in connection with regular through trains 
of the Oregon Short Line. The distance from Nampa to Boise 
City is 19 miles over a broad sage brush plain on which are a few 
settlers. The lauds are very rich and productive when irrigated, 
and a movement is now being made for that purpose as the follow- 
ing will describe. 

Grand Canal Enterprise — In the summer of 1888 a syndi- 
cate of capitalists was formed at Cheyenne, Wyoming, with a 
capital of $100,000, who proceeded at once to purchase certain 
canal and ditch franchises for taking water from the Boise river at 
a point above Boise City. The company immediately announced 
their intention of building, enlarging and extending a system of 
lands and ditches for irrigating purposes, to cover a great portion 
of the lauds between Boise City and Nampa, and also to supply 
the town of Nampa with water. Should the company carry out 
their announced plan it will bring under cultivation fully 100,000 
acres of most desirable agricultural land, which means 10,000 
additional population on the lands covered by the waters of the 
canals and ditches within the next five years. Stimulated by the 
active operations of the company, a large amount of these lands 
was taken up by actual settlers during the fall, and doubtless will 
all be taken up at an early day. When the enterprise was first 
announced the title of nearly every acre under the canal level was 
in the government, subject to appropriation under the general 
land laws. 

The train under the conductorship of Mr. Bliss is a perfect 
bliss, it <<oes along lively and makes few and short stops. So just 
as one is about to ask the name of a high range of mountains to 
the left onlya few miles away, you hear a bliss- full shout— "Boise!" 
— Boise! what a charming word, full of poetry, beauty and pleas- 
ant expectancy. 

Grand View — Alighting from the cars we are still upon a 
broad elevated sage covered plain. To the south, the view is 
obstructed by rolling grassy hills. To the eastward a long green 
valley with the beautiful Boise river in its midst, glistening in 
spots where it can be seen through the thick foliage like mam- 
moth brilliants in the richest emerald settings; just beyond, but 
really ten miles away, the Boise mountain range, and the black 
basaltic walks at the mouth of Boise canon closes the scene. 
Now a sweeping range of vision from the cahou around to the 
north and westward, in one immense semi-circle rises the beautiful 
Boise range of mountains, slashed from summit to base by the 
hand of the great architect, into numerous deep and dark ravines 
and gulches, in the mouths of which, extending away back, are 
beautiful little valleys, productive farms, fruitful orchards, com- 
fortable farm houses and snug little cottages. 

Along the whole base of this magnificent range of mountains is 
a strip of green, one vast wilderness of foilage, extending up 
the ravines and gulches, and in places up the mountain side, away 



HERE IS BOISE. 195 



up to the summit 2,000 feet above the valley. From our stand- 
point at the depot this green materializes in towering pines and firs 
and shrubs and grassy parks, interspersed with lofty crags, silvery 
brooks and miniature cascades. It is a grand picture. But you ask 

"WHERE IS BoiSE?" — We will see — save only one "knight of 
the whip," all the "busses" and carriages have gone from the 
depot while we have been viewing the most magnificent landscape 
in all Idaho. 

Calling "his royal nibs" and taking a seat in his barouche, 500 
yards brings us to the verge of the plain, 800 feet above and over-' 
looking Boise valley and river. The valley is nearly four miles 
wide, and as far as one can see up and down the river from eight 
to ten miles is one mass of foilage, bisected by the river, where in 
places can be seen green meadows, golden fields of grain, large 
farm houses, cozy little white cottages, with race-track, mills, 
manufactories and the whole interspersed with orchards and vine- 
yards in great profusion. Directly in front, across the river, shoot 
up church spires, glistening domes and turrets. Yes, and there is 
"Uncle Sam" and our starry flag. Here, in the midst of all, is 
the beautiful, the lovely 

BOISC C-lty — [Pop., 3,500; from Nampa, 19 miles; Omaha, 1,326 miles; 
Portland, 504 miles; elevation, 2,800 feet]. — Settled in 1863. Is the capital 
of Idaho and the seat of Ada county, situated 011 the north side of 
the Boise river just at the southern base of the Boise range of 
mountains. The streets are wide and regular, lined on either side 
with beautiful shade trees of almost every variety. Water flows 
beside most of the streets and over the gardens and grounds of 
the citizens. There are many fine private residences, most of 
which are embowered in trees, orchards of fruit and vines, and 
surrounded with grass and flowers. Coming to business Boise has 
some of the finest brick business blocks in the west and scores of 
large merchantile establishments, who do an immense business 
with the mining towns and camps to the northward. It has an 
efficient steam fire deparment, two flouring-mills, two saw-mills, 
foundry and machine works, planing-mills, sash, door and blind 
factory, one brewery, two banks, several hotels, chief of which 
are the Overland and Central, three newspapers — Statesman, daily 
and weekly, and the Republican and Democrat, weeklies. The 
city contains seven churches and a school building, occupying one 
entire block, built of brick, 82x100 feet, four stories— cost $60,000; 
there are ten teachers and (500 scholars. 

The capitol building is a fine structure that cost $100,000; the 
county court building cost $75,000. 

Here is located a U. S. assay office, the building of which cost 
$83,000, and the average annual business amounts to $1,000,000. 
Here, too, is a U. S. land office and the offices of the governor, 
surveyor-general and other territorial officials, besides a govern- 
ment military post, U. S. penitentiary and signal service office. 

Boise has its Board of Trade with 210 members, who are ever 
laboring for the substantial advancement of their city; are ever 
loyal, and glory in its history, but discourage a "boom." 

Fruit — Boise City and valley abound in fruit of all kinds. 
Apples grow to an enormous size; we have seen many that weighed 
30 ounces. One apple sent east for exhibition in September, 1888, 
measured 18 inches in circumference and weighed 44 ounces. 



196 



INNOCENCE LOOKING-A-LEETXE OUT. 



ELECTRICITY — Is used in Boise City in all its forms for lighting, 
telephone, etc.; quite a number of adjoining towns and mining 
camps are connected by telephone with Boise City. 

BoiSE Barracks — Are situated close to the north of the city on 
a gradual slope of the mountains, and were established for a two- 
company post. 

The reservation embraces a tract of land one mile square. 

Lieut.-Col. J. Green, 2d Cavalry, is in command. The garrison 
consists of Troop D and company G, 4th Infantry. 

Climate — Meteorological data obtained from the U. S. signal 
service officer at Boise City, September 29, 1888, for 11 years, 
ending December 31, 1887, reads, as fellows: Mean monthly tem- 
perature 50°. 5; mean monthly rainfall 1.12 inches; mean hourly 
velocity of wind 4. 3 miles. The lowest temperature in the history 
of the station was 27°.8, on January 16, 1888. 

Now these mean averages are about as deceptive to the ordi- 
nary understanding as the make-up of a fashionable woman. From 
a most reliable source we learn that, in 1881, the coldest day was 
15 deg. above zero, and the hottest 101 above, with seven days above 
90. Rainfall, 11 inches; sun shone 264 days. In 1882 the hottest 
< lav was 102, with 32 days of about 90. Fourteen inches of rain 
fell that year, and the sun shone 256 days. In 1883 the thermome- 
ter registered 22 degrees below zero, and 15 days at about zero; the 
hottest day was 105 degrees, and 43 days at about 90 degrees; that 




XING FOK1RE, DEAR? ' 



BOISE BASIN COUNTRY. 107 

year 14 inches of rain fell, and 266 days the sun shone. In 1884 
coldest days eight below and 95 above. In 1885 seven below and 
99 above. In 1886, one below and' 107 above. In 18S7, six below 
and 90 above ; the rainfall varying in the four years only three 
inches from 12 inches, with about 290 days of sunshine each year. 

We give these figures to show that "averages" are not educat- 
ing. They will apply in many other places besides Boise. 

HOT Springs — These springs are situated five miles eastward 
from Boise City in a charming little nook of the mountains, 
reached by a good wagon road affording a most romantic drive 
and views of grand and varied scenery, groves of lombards, 
orchards, vineyards, farms, mills, river, valley and mountains. 

These springs gush out of the mountain in a dozen places ; some 
are boiling hot, others are of lower temperature. Physicians com- 
mend their medicinal properties in the very highest terms. 
Here, in one of the loveliest valleys in the world, in close proxi- 
mity to all the luxuries and comforts of life, are springs of medi- 
cinal waters worthy to rank with — if not outranking — those of the 
far-famed Arkansas or Carlsbad of Germany. 

At this time only plain, rustic bathing accommodations are 
provided at the springs, but we are informed by the owner, Judge 
Milton Kelly, the veteran editor and proprietor of the Idaho Daily 
Statesman, that a first-class hotel, extensive bath-houses, and a 
number of cottages are among the improvements that will be made 
at these springs at an early day. A line of street cars is also con- 
templated between Boise City and the springs. 

Connections — Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Idaho City, 36 miles; thence, 
north to Centreville, ten miles; Pioneerville, seven miles; thence south- 
west to Placerville, nine miles; thence northwest to Qcartzburgh, four 
miles. 

From Boise City — Mail hack southeast, to Mayfield, 35 miles, once a 
week. 

From Boise City — Mail hack north, to Horseshoe Bend, 25 miles; thence 
east to Placerville, 20 miles, three times a week. 

From Horseshoe Bend — Northwest, to Sweet, 12 miles; thence, north to Ola, 
18 miles, three times a week. 

From Idaho City — Mail hack northeast, to Banner, 28 miles, three times a 
week. Also, from Idaho City, special *route to Gardner Valley - , 12 miles. 

ggg^All of the above named towns, villages and mining camps 
are tributary to the capital city for business, particularly those 
in the 

BoiSE Basin — This "basin" is in about the center of Boise 
county, the principal towns being Ouartzburgh, Centerville, Placer- 
ville, Idaho City and Banner. The first gold discoveries in south- 
ern Idaho were made in this "basin" in the summer of 1863, since 
which time the yield of the rich placers have aggregated over 
$30,000,000. Soon after the discovery of the placers, quartz veins 
of surprising richness were discovered that now test the full ca- 
pacity of // quartz mills, besides shipping a large amount of ore. 
Some of the quartz lodes have been worked with great profit for 
over 20 years and yet they are hardly prospected, as none of them 
have been worked deeper than 300 feet. 

BoiSE County, besides the great number of rich mines, con- 
tains many thousand acres of rich agricultural land, watered by 
the Boise and Payette rivers and their numerous tributaries. Dur- 
ing 1888 the county produced of wheat, 75,000 bushels; oats, 25,000; 
barley, 5,000; rye, 500; potatoes, 25,000; apples, 10,000. Its cattle 
number 5,540 head; horses, 2,277; sheep, 2,862 head. It has eight 



198 CALDWEI.lv, IDAHO — ONTARIO, OREGON. 

saw-mills atid 12,000 acres of patented land. It also has a large 
amount of government land subject to entry under the various 
land laws. Idaho City, a thrifty mining town, is the county seat. 

Ada County comprises about one-third agricultural, one-third 
grazing and the other third mountainous and timbered lands; 
elevation, from 2,500 to 10,000 feet. It contains a population of about 
11,000, with an assessed valuation of $3,020,000. The stock inter- 
ests are represented by 19,375 head of cattle, 35,000 sheep, 9,125 
horses and 1,200 hogs. It contains 80,579 acres of patented land 
and double that amount of government land awaiting the settler. 

Returning to Nampa we start once more for the west. 

CilNlWCll— [Pop., 6oo; from Nampa, nine miles; Huntington, 73 miles; 
elevation, 2,372 feet],— Is in Ada county, on the east bank of the Boise 
river, in an agricultural section of country of unsurpassed fertility. 
Tbe town contains a number of large fine brick business blocks, 
one bank and several establishments that do a business approxi- 
mating $500,000 per annum. The Commercial, at the depot, and 
the Haskell are the principal hotels. The Tribune is a weekly 
newspaper. The town was laid out and settled in 1883 by the 
Idaho & Oregon Improvement Co., of which ex-Senator Caldwell, 
of Kansas, is president, and Mr. Robert E. Strahorn is manager. 
For some years after the completion of the Oregon Short Line 
Caldwell was a regular meal station, the railroad company having 
here one of their largest hotels on the line of the road. 

Shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1888, 2,973 tons — of 
which the two principal items were: Cattle, 2,074; wool, 166 tons. 
Caldwell shipped 1,000 tons more cattle in the last season than any 
station on the whole system west of Green river. 

Connections— Mail hack: Northeast to Middleton, six miles; thence east 
to Star, seven miles. Also from Middleton north to Emmet, 12 miles; thence 
northwest to Falks, 14 miles, and Payette, 16 miles, three times a week. 

From Caldwell, mail southwest to Henderson, 12 miles, and Rockville, 
23 miles, once a week. 

Leaving Caldwell the railroad crosses the Boise river in the 
first mile, and then follows it down, passing some fine farms and 
NOTUS [seven miles] and Parma [eight miles], two small stations. 
Five miles beyond Parma we reach the Snake river, and crossing it 
are in Oregon. From the crossing it is 12 miles to 

Ontario— [Pop., 250; from Caldwell, 23 miles; Huntington, 50 miles]. 
Is in Malheur county, Oregon, on a broad sage-brush plain near 
the western bank of Snake river, and but a short distance south- 
ward from the junction of the Malheur river with the Snake. 

There are two stores, an extensive lumber yard, hotel and a 
large public hall, and a number of shops and saloons. The prin- 
cipal industry in this vicinity is stock-raising— horses, sheep 
and cattle. 

Connections — Mail coach: West daily to Vale, 16 miles. 

From Vale— Mail hack northwest, three times a week to Glenn, nine 
miles; Dell, nine miles; Malheur, 24 miles; Bridgeport, seven miles; Clarks- 
ville, four miles, and Baker City, 30 miles. 

From Bridgeport— Mail hack west, once a week to Herford, 16 miles. 

From Vale— Mail hack westward, three times a week, to Llano, 13 miles; 
Bully, 15 miles; Beulah, 26 miles; Drewsey, 20 miles; Harney, 36 miles, and 
Burns, 14 miles. 

From Burns— Mail hack southeast, once a week to Del Norte, 23 miles, 
thence southeast to Blitzen, 32 miles; thence southeast to Diamond, 18 
miles; thence southwest to Plush, 83 miles, and Fort Bidwell 50 miles. 

From Burns— Mail hack west, once a week to Riley, 30 miles; thence 
northwest to Evergreen, 12 miles; Harden, 25 miles, and Paulina, 13 miles. 



PAYETTE — WEISER. 199 



From Paulina— Mail hack west, once a week to Mowry, 12 miles and 
Prineville, 43 miles. Also from Paulina southeast, once a week to Stuart, 
23 miles. 

From Harden — Mail hack westward, once a week to Price 25 miles; Crook, 
15 miles; Prineville, 30 miles — connecting at the latter with lines for the north 
and west. • 

Leaving Ontario we soon re-cross the Snake river and then a 
branch of the Payette at Washo [two miles], a lumbering station, 
and roll along through a fine agricultural section of country to 

Payette— [Pop., 350; from Ontario, four miles] — In Ada county, sit- 
uated on the north bank of Payette river just above its junction 
with the Snake. It is the natural outlet for the rich agricultural 
and stock-raising country bordering the Payette river and its num- 
erous tributaries to the eastward. Payette has many natural ad- 
vantages to make an important town in the near future. It now 
has a number of fine business blocks, and a variety of mercantile 
establishments. The Pence house is the principal hotel. 

The Pa}'ette nursery is located just to the right after leaving 
the depot. It contains 7o acres devoted to the growing of nursery 
stock. In this nursery are growing a great variety of fruit, orna- 
mental and nut trees, berries, vines, etc., also forest trees. 



Connections — Mail hack: Southeast, three times a week to Falks. 16 
miles; Emmet, 14 miles; thence connecting as under "Caldwell" and "Boise 
City." 

Passing Crystae Springs — [six miles] a run along down the 
Snake seven miles further brings our train to the last station in 
Idaho of any importance — 

WeiSCl* — Pop., 700; from Payette, 13 miles; Huntington, 23 miles]. — The 
seat ot Washington county, situated on the north bank of Weiser 
river one mile to the east of the station. It contains one bank, a 
flour-mill, brewery, general store and one weekly newspaper, the 
Leader. The Weiser is the principal hotel. 

The principal shipments are: Cattle, horses, sheep, wheat, oats, 
barley and hay. The minor productions are fruit, vegetables, lum- 
ber, wool and dairy products. 



Connections — Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Sater, ten miles; Middle 
Valley, 12 miles; Salubria, ten miles; thence east to Indian Valley, 13 
miles. 

From Indian Valley, mail hack south to Crane, 12 miles; also Irom Indian 
Valley north to Rose, six miles; Council Valley, five miles; thence northeast 
to Meadows, 35 miles, twice a week. 

From Salubria, mail hack northwest to Spring, four miles, and Ruthbury, 
16 miles, twice a week. 



Weiser Vaeeey, River and Washington County.— The 
main valley of the Weiser extends from the mouth of Weiser river 
eastward to what is known as the canon, about 15 miles long and 
one mile wide. The town of Weiser and the commercial center 
of the county, is located near the foot of this valley. Nearly the 
entire drainage of the country is through the Weiser river and its 
tributaries, all of which rise and run wholly within the count}-, 
making the county geographically a little world of its own. 

The area of the county is about 8,000 square miles, of which 
about one-fourth is timber, one-half mountain grazing of the best, 
and the balance as rich and productive valley and bench land as 
any in Idaho. The river has numberless little tributaries, each of 
which runs through rich little valleys, chief of which are Monroe, 
Manns, Crane, Middle, Salubria, Indian, Pine, Rush, Council, Big 
Weiser, Little Weiser and Little Salmon. 

Did you ever hear a Pacific coaster brag of their oysters? 



200 OREGON — "SHAKE!' 



The valleys are all settled and contain some very fine farms. 
Wheat, oats, hay, alfalfa and wild grasses and vegetables are the 
chief productions. The county contains a larger proportion of 
cattle, sheep and horses, with one exception, than any county in 
Idaho. 

There is a large amount of government laud in the county that 
can be taken up by settlers under the general land laws. 

The "meadows," 90 miles northeast from Weiser — on a tribu- 
tary of Little Salmon river — is a most delightful and picturesque 
spot, the level bottom lands of which the "meadows" are composed 
being fringed along the numerous water-courses which flow through 
them with cottonwood and willow, with groves of the finest tam- 
arack, pine and fir, while on the foot-hills, which slope gently to- 
ward the mountains which enclose the valley, the heavy forest 
timber common to this region begins and clothes the mountains to 
their summits. 

The soil is an alluvial loam, very deep and wonderfully pro- 
lific. This whole region, for hunting and fishing, is par 
excellent. 

Following down the Snake we pass a few fine farms, after which 
the bottom lands are crowded out by the bluffs. 



Old'* Ferry— [14 miles from Weiser] .—Is a ferry crossing where 
the wagon road, after getting squeezed out on our side of the 
Snake, crosses over and starts off over the bluffs to the westward, 
disgusted, we suppose. 

Soon after leaving the old ferry the canon wall began to crowd 
still closer and rise higher. The Snake appears more angry and 
tumbles along its narrow bed over immense masses of rock in a 
noisy way. 

After seven miles of rattling along down the canon, over a tor- 
tuous route, 'mid deafening echos, and between massive, towering 
cliffs, our train reaches the great bridge over Snake river, and in 
crossing we get a view of the 

Lower Snake River Canon— This canon is over 70 miles in 
length. In most places the walls rise sheer from the water's edge 
from 800 to 1,000 feet. Save the Powder river and Pine creek, one 
20 miles and the other 45 miles below the bridge, the Snake re- 
ceives no streams until the Salmon river is reached, 90 miles distant. 

Lower Snake River Bridge— Is a ' 'deck" bridge, consisting of 
two iron spans, 184 feet long each; one iron span 190 feet long, and 
one iron span 178 feet long; total, 736 feet. Height of rail above 
water at usual stage, 59 feet; above high-water mark, 45 feet. 

The west end of the bridge is on the soil of Oregon, and a meal 
station will be the next. In the meantime our train turns up the 
Burnt river canon and labors vigorously in the next two miles. 

1 1 Hill l!!«l Oil — [Pop., 350; from Weiser, 29 miles; from Omaha, 1,425 
miles: from Portland, 397 miles; elevation, 2,112 feet.]^Is in Baker county, 
Oregon, on Burnt river, in a little valley surrounded by high, grass- 
covered hills. 

The place contains several stores, restaurants and saloons, and 
one large hotel. The latter belongs to the railroad company, and 
is similar to all their houses along the line from Omaha. These 
houses usually contain about 36 rooms, are kept as first-class 
houses; charges, $3 per day. 



BAKER CITY — EASTERN OREGON. 201 



Huntington is a regular meal station, and the eud of the 
Oregon Short Line, and the commencement of the Oregon Railway 
& Navigation Co. 's railway, from the east. Here, time changes 
from "mountain" to "Pacific time;" here also, some classes of 
passengers "change cars. " The Pullman cars always go through 
and sometimes certain classes of day coaches. 

The two railroad companies have each round houses and shops 
for repairs, located near the station. The Oregon Railway & 
Navigation Co.'s lines ("O. R. & N.," for short) are generally 
understood to be operated under the directions of the Union Pacific 
Railway Co., but on what terms we are not advised. 

Howbeit, we will go through all the sam* 

Leaving Huntington the route is up Burnt river; the way in 
places is narrow and the climb a heavy one. Old placers, fruit 
orchards, cultivated patches, neat farm houses, rounded grass-cov- 
ered bluffs, and rocky tunneled cliffs appear at intervals. 

Weatlierfoy — [From Huntington, 12 miles]. — Is the first station, 

and a small one. 

Connections — Mail hack: Northeast three times a week, to Connor Creek, 

19 miles. 

Again climbing — more old placers, a few settlers, with hay 
meadows, rocky ridges, grassy slopes, and stock-raisers. Then 
DURKEE [eight miles], hay ranch; Burnt river comes down from the 
west (we are going northwest); mail to Express [two miles] daily; 
more farms; come to Alder creek and a big climb; go twisting 
around on the mountain side in great curves looking up an&dozvn, 
alternately, to the parallel tracks of the railroad — the route is very 
tortuous and the scenery very much-mixed. 

Passing Unity — [seven miles] — and a high trestle bridge; then 
deep cuts, and a broken, rough country; get a peep to the right of 
the pretty and productive lower Pleasant valley; again deep cuts 
and a ragged country and then the station of 

Pleasant Valley — [Eight miles]. — In upper Pleasant valley, a 
point for shipping lumber and ties. Again climbing, mid cuts and 
curves, Encina [two miles] is passed, and NORTON [four miles], and 
finally [six miles] 

Balier City — [Pop., 3,000; from Huntington, 47 miles; Portland. 357 
miles; elevation, 3,440 feet]. — Seat of Baker count}-. Situated half mile 
east from the depot, on Powder river, near the center of Powder 
river valley, which is about 20 miles long and 16 miles wide, and 
one of the most productive in eastern Oregon. The town contains 
some large brick business blocks and stores of all kinds, some of 
which do a very large business with the small towns and mining 
camps tributary in the surrounding country. The churches num- 
ber six and the school accommodations are first-class. 

The business of the place is represented by two national banks, 
one large flour mill, one brewery, saw mill, sash, door and blind 
factory, planing mill, wagon and carriage works, a dozen hotels— 
the Arlington the principal one — and five newspapers, the Demo- 
crat and the Reveille, daily and weekly, and Tribune, weekly. 

The court house is a very creditable building, and the ('.rand 
Opera house seats nearly 800 people. Orchards of fruit are to lie 
seen, and many shade trees about the town. The chief industry is 
connected with the mining business, which is carried on in the 
surrounding couutrv and in the mountains to a large extent. The 
mines are placer and quartz lodes. Lumbering, farming and 



202 GRAND RONDE VALLEY. 



stock-raising are also very important industries, and in the eastern 
part of the county, on the Powder, fruit of all kinds and berries 
do exceedingly well. 

The principal shipments are lumber, live-stock, wool, wheat 
and ores. 

Connections — The stage and mail connections at Baker City are very 
numerous, indicating it to be a great business centre. 

Mail coach leaves Baker City daily, to the southwest to Auburn, 12 miles; 
Britten, eight miles; Austin, three miles: Prairie City, 17 miles, and John 
Day, 14 miles; thence south to Canyon City, two miles. Fare about 15 cents 
per mile. 

From Britten mail hack northwest, twice a week, to Sumpter, eight miles, 
and Granite, 14 miles. 

From Canyon City mail hack south, three times a week, to Blanton, iS 
miles; Burns, 55 miles. See under "Ontario." 

From John Day mail hack northwest, three times a week, to Fox, iS miles; 
thence north to Long Creek, six miles; thence northwest to Hamilton, 12 
miles, and Monmouth, ten miles. 

From Long Creek speeial*service to Ritter, 15 miles. 

From John Day mail hack west, three times a week, to Mount Vernon, 
eight miles; Dayvtlle, 24 miles; Camp Watson, iS miles; Caleb, ten miles, and 
Mitchel, 11 miles. 

From Baker City mail hack eastward, three times a week to Keating, 21 
miles; Sparta, 12" miles;| New Bridge, ten miles; Pine Valley, ten miles; 
thence northwest to Halfway, seven miles, and Cornucopia, seven miles. See 
under " Union." 

From Baker City mail hack southward, three times a week, IoClarksville, 
30 miles; thence west to Bridgeport, four miles; thence south to Malheur, 
seven miles. See under "Ontario." 

P'rom Bridgeport mail hack west, once a week, to Herford, 16 miles. 



Leaving Baker City, grain fields, meadows, orchards, farm 
houses and farms are passed in rapid succession, while rolling 
across the broad valley of the Powder [ten miles] to HAINES, 
where there are several stores and about 200 settlers, mostly en- 
gaged in lumbering. 

Crossing the North Powder river — extensively navigated by 
logs and ties — we come to the station of 

North Powder — [Pop., 320; from Baker City, 20 miles]. — Here the 
principal productions and shipments are lumber, grain, live-stock 
and wool. 

Leaving the station, our direction is to the northeast, following 
down the Powder a few miles to a point where that river enters a 
canon, makes a grand curve back upon itself, and runs to the 
southeast until it unites with the Snake river. The railroad en- 
gineers disregarded the erratic course of the river in laying out 
the line of the road, hence our train climbs the bluffs to the left 
and enters a tunnel through a high rocky ridge which unites the 
Powder river mountains on the east with the Blue mountains on 
the west, separating the waters of the Powder from those of the 
Grand Roude. 

The settlers now are mostly stock-raisers and lumbermen, yet 
some little valleys are to be seen where grain fields and hay mead- 
ows appear. 

Teloeaset — [From Baker City, 30 miles; Union, ten miles]. — Is a small 
station for shipping lumber and live-stock. Skirting the moun- 
tains, beautiful scenic views begin to appear; towering, timber- 
covered mountains, snow sheds, pretty little valleys, neat farm 
houses, rocky ridges, deep ravines, crossed by high bridges, all ap- 
pear, as our train gradually descends the Blue mountains into the 
largest and most productive valley in all eastern Oregon. 

Grand Ronde Valley — This valley contains over 300,0(10 
acres of as rich level agricultural land as there is in the west. It is 
all prairie land and of the best. The Grand Ronde river flows 
through the valley from the south to the north and northeast. 



GARDEN SPOT OP OREGON. 203 



Numerous small streams start from the everflowiug springs in the 
hills and mountains surrounding the valley that find their way to 
the Grand Ronde — pure water being abundant in all parts of the 
valley. ' Tbe soil is generally alluvial and sandy loam, from two -to 
ten feet in depth; subsoil usually gravel. 

The soil is rich and produces wheat, oats, barley, rye, hops, 
flax and hemp, hay, timothy and clover and native wild grasses, 
vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips, cucumbers, peas, 
beans and other roots of all kinds; berries, currants, gooseberries, 
strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and wild huckleberries 
thrive, all remarkably; also fruit, apples, pears, plums, cherries, 
and in some localities, peaches. Large quantities of hay are among 
the shipments. From 25 to 60 bushels of wheat, 45 to 80 bushels 
of oats aud from 45 to 90 bushels of barley are raised per acre. 

The stock interests is an important occupation of the settlers. 

The mild winters, extensive ranges, productive grain and hay 
lauds, absence of contagious diseases, pure water everywhere, 
makes this now, as it always will be, a choice location for stock- 
raising. As fine horses as can be found on the Pacific coast are 
raised here, also cattle, sheep and hogs. Fattening cattle for ship- 
ment is a growing business. Dairy business is also important. 

The land in Grand Ronde valley was principally state land, 
and has been all sold. Although these lands have been sold the 
proportion under cultivation will not exceed one-half. Little land 
is offered for sale. Prices for improved land from $15 to §30 per 
acre; unimproved from $6 to $15. Land in the foot-hills and small 
valleys surrounding the Grand Ronde can be bought for from $6 to 
$12 per acre; unimproved from $3 to $7. There are two principal 
towns in the valley — Union, at the eastern end and LaGrande at 
the western. 

Game and Fish — The mountain streams are stocked with fish. 
The most common are salmon, red fish aud trout. For game there 
are deer, antelope, mouutain sheep and bear. Grouse, chickens, 
pheasants, ducks and geese delight the sportsman in search of 
small game. ■ 

The view after first coming in sight of the Grand Ronde valley 
as our train describes a half circle on the mountain side in its 
descent into the valley, is exceedingly grand. The little town of 
Union lies over beside the mountains to the east and across the 
valley, three miles away, embowered in foliage in the midst of 
which a church spire rises here and there; in the foreground, fine 
fields, freckled with the abodes of the well-to-do settlers and their 
flocks aud herds. 



Cllioil — Siaiion— [20 miles from Baker City]. — Is two miles west 
from the town of that name, but for all practical purposes the same. 

Union — Is situated on Catherine creek, a small tributary of 
Grand Ronde river, in the southeastern end of Grand Ronde val- 
ley, and contains a population of about 850, most of whom are 
engaged in stock-raising and farming. It is said the citizens rep- 
resent a larger proportion of wealth than any town in Oregon of 
equal size. Howbeit, they have two banks, fine brick business 
blocks, stores representing every line of goods, a large grain ele- 
vator, flouring mill, several hotels — the Union is the principal one, 
and one weekly newspaper — the Seoul. The principal shipments 
are live-stock, wheat, flour and wool. 



204 LAGRANDE AND VICINITY. 



Some hot springs are just to the west of the depot, but 
are not specially notable. 

Connections — Mail hack: Northeast daily to Cove, nine miles; also spec- 
ial * service to Hot Lake, seven miles. 

From Union: Mail hack southeast to Medicinal Springs, 20 miles: 
Sanger, 14 miles, and Cornucopia, 24 miles, three times a week. [See under 
"Baker City."] 

Hot Lake — [From Union, four miles; LaGrande, nine miles]. — Is a 
station for a lake of the same name close to the left of the road, 
covering about one acre of ground. The waters are very hot, but 
no analysis could be obtained. Bath accommodations are provided 
of limited dimensions. Report states the property has been pur- 
chased by a strong company, who will build extensive baths, hotel, 
etc., at an early day. ' 

LiH<jiraH<le — [Pop., 1,250; from Union, 13 miles; Portland, 305 miles]. 
In Union county, on the Grand Ronde river, in the northwestern 
portion of the great Grand Ronde valley, heretofore described. 
This place being the junction of divisions, the railroad company 
have built here their round-houses and machine repair shops, 
beside a large passenger depot and freight buildings. 

Brick enters largely in the construction of the business blocks 
and private residences. The town is built at the base of the Blue 
mountains on a gradual slope, affording ample drainage for the 
admirable system of water works which it possesses. The place 
is amply provided with stores and shops of all kinds, all of which 
appear to do a thriving business, as LaGrande is a great shipping 
point for the farmers in the Grand Ronde valley, some of whom 
come nearly 80 miles and do most of their trading where they ship 
their products. LaGrande contains four churches, good schools, 
a flouring-mill, saw-mill, sash, door and blind factory, planing 
mill, one bank, a brewery, large opera house, a number of "tele- 
phone" hotels and two weekly newspapers — the Gazette and 
Register. The Blue Mountain University is located here, also the 
U. S. land office. The LaGrande land district embraces Union, 
Umatilla and portions of Grant and Baker counties. The business 
of the office for the year ending June 30, 1SSS, amounted to 157,708 
acres. This included final entries as well as new entries. 

Shipments comprise all kinds of farm produce, live-stock, lum- 
ber, fruit and gold. The wheat shipments alone amounted the 
last season to a little over 360,000 bushels, at LaGrange and Union; 
wool, 341,000 pounds; lumber, 4,680,000 feet; barley and rye, 
160,000 bushels; butter and cheese, 300,000 pounds; the product 
of potatoes, hay and vegetables was very heavy; also the live- 
stock shipments. 

Connections — Mail coach: North daily to Island City, five miles; Scm- 
kerville, 12 miles; thence northeast to Elgin, nine miles; Elk Flat, seven 
miles; thence east to Wollowa, 17 miles; thence .southeast to Lostine, eight 
miles; Enterprise, nine miles, and Joseph, six miles. 

From Joseph: Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Prairie Creek, 
six miles; also from Joseph, special * service to Arcadia, 30 miles. 

From Prairie Creek: Mail northeast, once a week, to Imnaha, 40 miles. 

From Enterprise: Mail hack north to Teepy Springs, seven miles; Lost 
Prairie, 30 miles; Anatona, 24 miles. 

SummERVILLE — 17 miles north of LaGrande, is a busy place, 
and surrounded by as rich agricultural land as can be found any- 
where. Mill creek furnishes water power to drive two flouring- 
mills. Business enterprises required by a farming community are 
represented. 

"Captain Jinks," ofColorado, has donated his $250 "night shirts" to the His- 
torical Society. 



PENDLETON — INDIAN RESERVATION. 205 



Leaving La Grande, our way leads up a small tributary of the 
Grand Ronde river, and soon commences to climb the Blue moun- 
tains. Scenery now rough and rugged is all that the route can 
afford for the next 74 miles. The stations are all little side-tracks 
with from ten to 50 settlers, most of whom are engaged in lumber- 
ing, getting out railroad ties and cutting cordwood. The moun- 
tains are very generally covered with timber, and the route of the 
road very tortuous — in a number of places exceedingly crooked. 

The stations on the "time card" are HillGard [seven miles], 
KAMEEA [12 miles], MEACHAM [eight miles], LAKA [eight miles], NORTH 
FORK [nine miles], MlKECHA [ n miles], CAYUSE [ten miles]. From the 
latter it is ten miles to 

PeildletOll — [Pop., 3,750; from I,a Grande, 74 miles; Portland, 229 
miles; Walla Walla, 47 miles; elevation, 1.070 feet]. — Settled in 1869. Is 
the seat of Umatilla county, situated on the south bank of the Uma- 
tilla river, and protected by a levee 20 feet in height from the spring 
floods; cost, $40,000. A system of water works, which cost $30,000, 
supplies all needed water for domestic and fire department purposes. 
Of churches there are six, and a school building that cost $20,000, 
requiring ten teachers, with an average attendance of 600 scholars. 
There are two national banks, two flouring-mills, one large farm 
implement works, one planing-mill, two breweries, an opera house 
seating 600, good fire department, several large lumber yards, rail- 
road machine repair shops, two newspapers — the East Oregonian, 
semi-weekly, and the Tribune, weekly — and an even half dozen 
hotels, chief of which are the Villard and Golden Rule; the others 
are "telephones." 

Brick enters largely into the construction of buildings in Pendle- 
ton, and many large brick business blocks are to be seen, as well as 
private residences. 

The rich country surrounding the town, together with the 
natural trade center for a score of small hamlets and mining 
camps, supports a great number of stores of all kinds. Stock- 
raising is an important industry, but wheat makes the largest item 
among the shipments. 



-* The Umatilla Indian Reservation borders Pendleton to 
the east, and extends on to the timber slope of the Blue moun- 
tains, comprising 26S,()0l) acres. The greater portion of this tract 
is the best agricultural laud in eastern Oregon; the balance is 
covered with fine timber. By a recent treaty with the Indians they 
have agreed to accept lands in severalty and abandon the balance 
to the government. Each Indian head of a family to be allotted 
160 acres of agricultural land and 40 acres of timber land; each 
person over 18 years of age, not included in the above, to have 80 
acres, and each child under Is years, 40 acres. The amount so 
allotted will .approximate 120,000 acres, leaving 148,000 acres to be 
sold by the government, which will probably be advertised and 
sold at auction during the present year. The terms of sale will 
be: Any person can buy 160 acres of agricultural and 40 acres of 
timber lands, but he must buy it for an actual home, and must pay 
one-third cash down and one-third in one year, and the last third in 
three years, provided, 25 acres are cultivated and the purchaser lives 
on the tract, so as to be able to prove up according to law. It is 
estimated the land will bring from $10 to $50 per acre. 
A ton of pure silver is valued at $37,704.80. 



206 UMATILLA COUNTY — OREGON. 



Connections — By Rail: Walla Walla branch — north for all points. 

Also, mail coach south, daily to Pilot Rock, 16 miles; thence west to N% i , 
eight miles; Vinson, seven miles; Lena, 13 miles; Heppner, 16 miles; thence 
uorl liwest to Lexington, nine miles; Pettysville, six miles; Io.ne, four miles; 
and Arlington, 30 miles. 

From Pilot Rock — Mail hack southward, twice a week to F.varts, ii miles; 
Ridge, five miles; and Alba, 12 miles. 

From Alba — South, special * service to Dorman, 17 miles. 

From Heppner — Mail hack southwest, twice a week to Fightmile, 14 
miles; thence southeast to Hardman, eight miles. 

From lone — Mail hack northwest, three times a week to Saddle, eight 
mlies; thence northeast to Ella, ten miles. 



Umatilla County — of which Pendleton is the seat — contains 
about 1,730,000 acres, and is the most extensive agricultural region 
of eastern Oregon. About one-third of the area of the county is 
occupied by the Blue mountains and their spurs, and are equally 
valuable for the timber and grass, with which they are covered. 
The other two-thirds of the county is in the main arable land, 
though it is broken here and there by barren bluffs, steep hillsides 
or patches of waste land, and, immediately along the Columbia 
river, by a belt of sand from six to nine miles in average width. 
The general character of the arable portion of the county is that 
of heavily-rolling prairie. 

The principal occupations are farming, stock-raising, wool- 
growing and dairying. Formerly, when the country was sparsely 
settled, stock and wool-raising were about the only industries. 
The plains that are now largely converted into grain fields were 
then covered with a luxuriant growth of bunch-grass, and this was 
the stockman's paradise. It was believed the land was not adapted 
to agriculture, and for many years any suggestion of grain-grow- 
ing was received with incredulity and scorn. Gradually, however, 
the plow has advanced, beginning in the northeastern portion of 
the county, and pushing its way gradually but steadily and per- 
sistently southward and westward, until the area left to the flocks 
and herds is greatly diminished. Greatly to the surprise of old 
settlers, the uplands were found far more prolific than the little 
creek bottoms, and the higher the land, where the depth of soil is 
sufficient, the greater is the fertility. 

Wheat yields from 30 to 45 bushels to the acre. Vegetables of 
all kinds do exceedingly well, as does fruit and all kinds of berries. 

The climate is much milder than that several degrees further 
south in the eastern states; neither are the excessive extremes of 
heat and cold as protracted, seldom lasting but a few days. Strong 
winds prevail for a while in spring, but rarely in winter, and any- 
thing like cyclones are unknown. Though the soil is very light 
and loose, and no rain falls during the summer months, no irri- 
gation is necessary. There is no healthier spot on the continent. 
The Blue mountains afford an inexhaustible supply of pine, fir and 
tamarack timber and an abundance of large game. The streams 
abound in salmon and mountain trout. 

Terms Heard on the Plains. — "Lariat" is the Spanish name for rope; 
"broncho," California or Spanish pony; "bueano" (wa-no), good; 'esta 
bueano" (star wa-no), very good — no better; "no sabe" (sarvey), don't under- 
stand; "quien sabe" (kin sarvey), who knows, or do you understand? 

Our various western books answer almost every conceivable question about 
the great western country. Yet, for over 20 years, we have been in receipt of 
from one to 20 letters each week during that time, asking for further informa- 
tion. Hereafter, as we are old, financially "busted" and "played out." we 
must advise all correspondents to buy the Tours and read up. 

How much better we can bear other people's sorrows than our own. How 
resigned we are at their bereavements, and how nobly we withstand their 
temptations! 



AWAY — NORTHWARD. 



COME ALOXtt— TO SPOKANE FALLS! 



Side Tour Ko. 15. — From Pendeeton to Waeea Walea, 
Dayton, Pomeroy, Riparia, Lewiston, Coefax, Moscow, 
Farmington and Spokane Faees. 

Taking the regular through train of the "O. R. & N. from 
Portland for the above-named places the direction is northeast, 
crossing the Umatilla river in the first mile, and then up Wild 
Horse creek. The creek bottom is narrow and the bluffs on each 
side high, obscuring the view of the country beyond, but wheat and 
live-stock are the chief productions along the whole line of this 
tour to Walla Walla. 

Adams— [Pop., 350; from Pendleton, 13 miles].— Is a small station on 
Wild Horse creek consisting of several general stores, three 
churches and a good school. The settlers are all farmers and 
stock-growers. Large warehouses and platforms for storing and 
shipping grain. 

Centcrville— [Pop., 450; from Pendleton, 16 miles].— On Wild Horse 
creek in the midst of immense wheat fields, the whole country 
under cultivation. Large warehouses for storing and platforms for 
shipping grain are here, also a number of stores, churches, hotels 
and one weekly newspaper — the Centervillian. 

For a background to the eastward Ceuterville has the long 
dark timber-covered range of the Blue mountains. 



Connections — Rail: The Oregon & Washington Territory branch from 
Wallula. 

Leaving Ceuterville our train climbs a heavy grade for a few 
miles and then descends to the little valley of Pine creek and 
"Weston" is announced. Here is a fine depot for the town, one 
mile away to the right. 

Weston — Town — Contains a population of about 600, is one 
mile from Weston station and five miles from Ceuterville. The 
people are provided with a number of churches, schools, stores of 
all kinds, planing-mill, a weekly newspaper — the Leader — and 
several hotels. Wheat is the great staple. 

Connections — Special * mail service, southeast to Purdy, 3$ miles. 

From Weston station our train crosses a long high bridge and 
commences to climb another heavy grade. The route is very tor- 
tuous running up on one side of a deep ravine to only head it off 
and run down on the other side, showing parallel tracks one far 
above the other. Between these tracks, at the lower end of the 
great curve, is situated a platform for shipping wheat called 
BEUE Mountain, six miles from Weston by rail, but less than 
two as the "bird would fly." Giving the "blue" station the go-by, 
as all passenger trains do, we descend into the broad valley of 
Walla Walla river, turn to the right and stop at 

WliltOIl— [Pop., 450; from Pendleton, 37 miles; Walla Walla, n miles]. 
Is situated on the Walla Walla river which affords water-power for 
running a large flour-mill, planing and shingle-mills. The town 
is incorporated and contains a number of churches, good school, 
stores of many kinds, an academy, business college, a weekly 



208 WALLA WALLA. 



newspaper — the Eagle — arid the City hotel. Wheat, general farm 
produce, flour, shingles, live-stock, wool and some fruit are among 
the items of shipments. 

Walla Walla Valley, or its drainage, is one of the largest 
agricultural valleys in the west, embracing about 5,125,000 acres, 
bounded on the north by Snake river, on the east and south by 
the Blue mountains, and on the west by the Columbia river, in- 
cluding most of Walla Walla and Columbia counties. In the 
valley all kinds of grain, vegetables, fruit and berries thrive ex- 
ceedingly well. The late fair at Walla Walla made the finest ex- 
hibition of field, orchard, garden and general farm productions 
ever made. The authentic records were: Wheat, from 30 to 65 
bushels to the acre; oats, from 40 to 60 bushels; corn, 55 bushels; 
potatoes, 000 bushels; turnips, 350 bushels; carrots, 1,000 bushels; 
parsnips, 850 bushels, and everything else in proportion. Wheat 
is the staple product of the country and the quality is superior, 
commanding a higher price in foreign markets than that from any 
other region in the world. Bugs, mildew, grasshoppers and rust 
are unknown. Irrigation is not necessary, and a failure of crops 
has hitherto never been experienced. 

The climate and adaptability of the valley for fruit-raising and 
vine culture is now pretty thoroughly demonstrated; and when the 
knowledge of the facts become more generally known it will not 
be long before every acre in this immense valley will be taken up 
and cultivated equal to any garden spot in the world. At this 
time, it is computed there are nearly 2,000,000 acres of government 
land in this valley that can be entered under the general land laws. 

Leaving Milton we soon cross the Walla Walla river and run 
directly north, along through a very fine tract of country, mostly 
under cultivation. The river is bordered with trees half a mile in 
width, and the valley bottom on each side from two to ten miles 
in width. 

Climbing a small divide five miles from Milton, our train crosses 
the boundary line into Washington Territory, and another five 
miles brings our train to 

Walla "Walla — [Pop., 5,000; from Pendleton, 47 miles; Wallula, 31 
miles; Riparia, 56 miles; from Portland, 278 miles]. — Settled in 1859. The 
seat of Walla Walla county, situated in the broad valley of and 
astride Mill creek, which affords ample power to run a score or 
more of mills and manufactories, among which are five large 
flour-mills, capacity 535 barrels a day; two planing-mills, three 
furniture factories, one brewery, one large agricultural implement 
works and two sash, door and blind factories. Some of the busi- 
ness blocks are very large, built of brick and stone in the most 
substantial manner. Stores, shops, restaurants, etc., are very 
numerous; of half a dozen hotels the Stine and Delmonaco are the 
principal ones. The city is provided with a good system of water 
works, gas, electric light, telephone, etc. There are 12 churches 
and three school buildings; the schools have 12 teachers and 650 
scholars in attendance. 

There are four private institutions of learning in the city: St. 
Paul's [Episcopal!, Whitman College [Congregational] , St. Vincent's 
Academv for girls and St. Patrick's for boys — both of the latter 
under the control of the Roman Catholic Church. Then there is 
a business college and normal institute, an opera house. U. S. 



DETOUR TO DAYTON. 209 



signal office, U. S. land office, court house (that cost $25,000), terri- 
torial penitentiary (occupying three acres of ground), cost, $212,500, 
and last, but by no means least, five newspapers — the Journal and 
the Union, both daily and weekly, and the Democrat, weekly. A 
race-track is also among the luxuries of the town. 

Stock-raising, next to wheat, is the most important industry of 
the settlers in the region surrounding Walla Walla. 

The shipments comprise wheat, oats, barley, flour, fruit and 
general farm products. 

Walla Walla is embowered in foliage — shade trees, orchards of 
fruit, vineyards and gardens are everywhere. The city, for wealth, 
good society, fruit, fine water, vines, flowers and whole-souled 
people, is a twin brother to Boise, the beautiful. 

In the vicinity of Walla Walla are two nurseries, where nearly 
every variety of fruit and ornamental trees and many varieties of 
berries, plants, etc., are raised in great quantities. 



Connections — By rail: With.Wallula branch of O. R. & N. and mainline to 
the north and south. Also, mail hack northeast, twice a week to Dixie, ten 
miles. 

Fort Walla Walla is situated just to the west of the city, 
in command of Col. D. R. Clendenin, 2d Cavalry. It is the head- 
quarters, field, staff, band and troop, of the 2d Cavalry, and 
garrisoned by companies B, E, F, I and M. 

Leaving Walla Walla, that big building just to the north, on a 
commanding eminence, is the territorial penitentiary, so it may be 
well to look a leetle out. 

Passing a succession of small sidings, for shipping wheat — as 
the whole country is one vast wheat field — we reach PrescoTT — 
[Pop., 230; from Walla Walla, 20 miles]. — On Trouchet river, where is 
located a flour-mill, from which it is four miles to BoLLES Junc- 
tion, situated on Trouchet river at the junction of the 

Dayton Branch — Changing cars, we will start on 

Detour One — The route is east, following up Trouchet river. 
The valley is from half to two miles in width, with high rolling 
grass or wheat-covered hills on both sides. Nearly all the land is 
fenced and cultivated; cottonwoods, pines, firs and willows line the 
stream-bed, flanked by thrifty settlers. Passing the little wheat 
shipping stations of WATESBURG [four miles], HUNTS VILLE [three 
miles], and Long's [three miles], we reach the end of the ''branch" at 

DaytOIl — [Pop., 1,850; from Bolles Junction, 13 miles.] — Settled in 
1871. Is the seat of Columbia count}', situated on Trouchet river, 
in a beautiful little park-like valley, and besides commodious 
county buildings, contains eight churches, schools (with nine 
teachers and 300 scholars), an opera house, two large flour-mills 
and a feed-mill, two banks, a furniture factory, saw-mills, iron 
works, brewery, shingle-mill, a good system of water works, sev- 
eral hotels — the Columbia and Pioneer, being the principal ones — 
and two weekly newspapers, Chronicle and Inlander. 

The railroad company have here a good depot and immense 
freight and storage buildings, and long platforms for shipping grain. 

A long "V" flume, extending from the Blue mountains to the 
eastward, brings down from the saw-mills large quantities of lum- 
ber, also ties and cordwood. 

The principal shipments from Dayton are wheat, lumber, flour, 
ties and cordwood. 

14 



210 DETOUR TO POMEROY. 



High rolling prairie lands surround the town, all well culti- 
vated; in fact, they are about the only lands cultivated producing 
immense crops without irrigation . All lands similarly situated in 
the Rocky mountain states and territories would be valueless 
except for grazing, for the want of water for irrigation. 

Connections — Hail hack: Northeast, daily to Corello, ten miles; Mar- 
ENGO, eight miles, and PoMEROY, eight miles. 



Returning to Bolles we start again for the north. Menoken 
[four miles], a little side-track in a little valley — few settlers. 

Climbing up the grade to Alto, the summit, [eight miles], where 
the shipments are heavy and all wheat, we commence a rapid 
descent over a tortuous route, down into a little valley, cross 
Tucannon creek and stop at Starbuck f 2 s miles from Bolles], the 
junction of the 

Pomeroy Branch — Changing cars, we commence 

Detour Two — From Starbuck to Pomeroy [30 miles]. — Turn- 
ing directly east up Tucannon creek, there is little of interest. 
The "time card" stations of Del axe y [seven miles]. Chard [seven 
miles] and ZUMWALT [ten miles] are passed, they being only side- 
tracks for shipping grain. 

Pomeroy — [Pop., 1,200]. — Settled in 1876. Is the seat of Gar- 
field county. It contains three churches and ample school acom- 
modations, one bank, one flouring-mill, two planing-mills, one 
sash, door and blind factory, one furniture factory, one brewery, 
several hotels — the St. George the principal one — and two weekly 
newspapers, the East Washingtonian and Independent. 

While wheat is the principal production, the live-stock inter- 
ests are very heavy. The wheat shipments for the last season 
aggregated over 2o,000 tons. Flour, wool, lumber and live-stock 
are among the principal shipments. 

Connections— Mail hack: Southwest, daily to Marengo, eight miles; Cok- 
ello. eight miles, and Dayton, ten miles. 

Also from Pomeroy — Mail coach east, to Pataha City, nine miles, Ai.p- 
owa, 12 miles; Silcott, eight miles, and Lewiston, eight miles. [See under 
"Lewiston:"] 

Also from Pomeroy — Mail hack northward, three times a week to Dixon, 
eight miles; Mayview, eight miles; Ilia, five miles; Almota, three miles, 
and Colfax, 15 miles. 

Returning to Starbuck we again start for the north, and rattle 
along down the canon to Grange City [four miles], a city without a 
building. Here we come face to face with our old friend, the Snake 
river. We parted company just before Huntington, to meet again 
after a run of 270 miles. 

Running along on a shelf of the canon wall, almost oven the 
river, a few miles brings our train opposite the Texas rapids, and 
five miles from Grange City we are at 

RijKiria — [Pop., 50; from Portland, 334 miles]. — Is a regular meal 
station, situated on the south bank of Snake river, just above the 
Texas rapids, at the foot of the Upper Snake river navigation. It 
is the end of divisions of the railroad, and the lower landing of the 
steamboats to Lewiston. The railroad company have a temporary 
bridge here across the Snake, and are building a very substantial 
one of stone and steel. It will have a draw, the total length of 
which will be 354 feet, and two spans each 32o feet in length. The 
total distance between the centers of the bridge-seats on the abut- 
ments will be 1,010 feet. The total estimated cost of the bridge is 



DETOUR TO EEWISTON. 211 



$350,000. The railroad crosses the river here and extends northward 
np Texas creek to a connection with their Palouse line. The place 
contains two grocery stores, a hotel, and a machine repair shop of 
the railroad company. 

l>eto»ir Three. — Taking one of the regular passenger steam- 
hoats of the O. R. & N. at Riparia, we start up the Snake river 
for Lewiston, Idaho; distance, 78 miles. The boats are fitted up 
equal to any light draft first-class craft on the eastern rivers. The 
staterooms are roomy and the meals and service all that could be 
desired. 

Boats leave Riparia 6:40 a. m. Wednesday and Saturday, and 
arrive at Lewiston at 4 p. in. Returning, leave Lewiston at 5 a. in. 
Monday and Friday, and arrive at Riparia at 2 p. m., connecting 
with trains for the east. 

Leaving Riparia the scenery is confined to the bluffs and canon 
walls of the river. The regular landings are not very numerous — 
the irregular ones depend upon signals from the shore — or whether 
there is any passenger on board who desires to laud. 

Besides the regular passenger boats there is a regular line of 
freight boats. 

Richard's Landing — For the village of Penwana, and Ai.mota, 
are the regular landings. 

LewistOll — [Pop.. 2,100].— Settled in 1860. Is the seat of Nez 
Perces county, situated at the junction of the Snake and Clear- 
water rivers, at the head of navigation. It contains five churches, 
good schools, three banks, two flour, a planing and a saw-mill, a 
sash, door and blind factory, one brewery, several hotels — Ray- 
mond, the principal one — and two weekly newspapers, the Teller 
and the Nezvs\ also a U. S. land office. 

The principal shipments are wheat, oats, barley, flax, lumber, 
flour and fruit. 

Lewiston was named after Lewis, the great American explorer, 
who visited that locality in 1805 011 his journey down the rivers to 
the ocean. Karly in the spring of 1806 the Lewis and Clarke expe- 
dition, after exploring the Snake and Columbia rivers and winter- 
ing on the ocean beach near the mouth of the Columbia, again 
ascended the river and camped on the spot where now stands the 
city of Lewiston After resting a few days at this point they 
ascended the south fork of the Clearwater to Camas prairie, where 
they remained for a time, preparing for their terrible trip over the 
mountains, then covered with several feet of snow. About the 
middle of June they renewed their journey, passing over into what 
is now Montana, to the headwaters of the Missouri river, and 
finally arrived at St. Louis toward the last of September, thus end- 
ing their wonderful journey over mountains, rivers and plains, 
through an unexplored region infested with Indians, a distance of 

over 9,000 miles. 

Nez PERCES County — Population about •">, OOO. Is about one- 
third mountainous and the balance about equally divided between 
grazing and agricultural land. 

The argicultural lands are very rich, producing grain and all 
kinds of farm produce equal to any laud in the west. 

For the year ending June 30, 1888, the grain product was: 
Wheat, 1,000,000 bushels; oats, 100,000 bushels; barley, 100,000 
bushels; flaxseed, 55,000 bushels. 



212 PAMPA AND WINONA BRANCHES. 



There are many orchards of fruit in the county. Apples, pears, 
peaches, plums and all kinds of berries do exceedingly well. 

The section of country known as the Big Potlatch is peculiarly 
adapted for fruit culture, the soil being very rich and warm. 
The Nez Perces county "Idaho pear," raised on the Potlatch, has 
become famous, taking the premium wherever exhibited at the 
state or county fairs. 

The lumber products and possibilities of the country are 
immense. 

GAME — Haired and feathered, is abundant; also, many 
varieties of fish in all the streams. 

Live-stock — In the county: Sheep, 10,800 head; cattle, 7,310 
head; horses, 4,200. 



Connections — Mail coach: West, daily to Silcott, eight miles; Alpowa, 
eight miles; Poiaha, 12 miles, and Pomeroy, nine miles. 

Also from Lewiston, mail coach north, daily to Genesee, 15 miles; Blain, 
seven miles, and Moscow, six miles; also, from Lewiston, mail hack south- 
east, daily to Rustic, 45 miles; Cottonwood, six miles; Grangerville, 16 
miles, and Mount Idaho, three miles. 

From Mount Idaho — Mail hack south, once a week to Fredom, 32 miles; 
John Day's, five miles; Shearer's Ferry, 30 miles, and Warren, 45 miles; 
also, from Mount Idaho, mail hack northeast once a week to Glenwood, 
eight miles, and Clearwater, four miles; from Clearwater southeast, special 
* service, to Elk City, 45 miles. 

From Lewiston — Mail hack east, ouce a week to Lola, 65 miles; thence 
north to Glenn, 15 miles. 

From Lola — Mail hack east, once a week to Weippe, 16 miles; thence 
north to Pierce City, 15 miles. 



Returning to Riparia and taking' our old seat, cross the Snake 
river and follow up Texas creek, which comes down through a 
narrow cation. 

Stock-raising is now the chief industry of the settlers, although 
there are a few wheat fields scattered along the way. Hay 
[13 miles] is down on the "time card" for a station; so also is 
MEEKER [six miles], but their peculiarities are neither settlers nor 
hay. 

Having reached the summit, our descent is rapid to La Crosse 
JUNCTION [five miles; from Riparia, 24 miles; Palouse Junction, 53 miles]. 
Here comes in the 

Pauipn Branch — from the west. This branch is 53 miles 
long, connecting at Palouse Junction or Connell with the North- 
ern Pacific railroad. The country traversed is devoted entirely to 
stock-raising, none of the half-dozen stations numbering more 
than a score of settlers. These stations are: PAMPA [three miles], 
HOOPER [four miles], WASHTUCKNA [nine miles], KAHLOUS [ten miles], 

Sulphur [12 miles], and Palouse Junction or Connell [nine miles]. 

This "junction" is situated on a broad sage-brush plain, fairly 
grassed, showing man}- evidences of having been visited at some 
date in the dim past by a great flood of volcanic matter, as indi- 
cated by lava outcroppiugs, lava knolls and the general basaltic 
deposits seen in many places. 

Passing SUTTON [three miles], on Union Flat creek, we descend 
to the valley of the Palouse river at 

WillOlia Junction — [From Sutton, eight miles; Colfax, 25 miles]. 
Here a branch line of railroad is building up the Palouse river 
through Pleasant valley, a great wheat country. 

Changing direction, our route is eastward up Spring creek, 
passing fenced fields and well cultivated farms, wheat and meadow 
lands. 



COLFAX AND MOSCOW, 



ElldicOtt — [Pop., 150; from Riparia, 41 miles; Colfax, 20 miles].— Set- 
tled in 1882. It has a church and school, half-dozen stores and 
shops, and ships live-stock, wheat, wool and farm produce. 



Diamonds — [Pop., ioo; from Endicott, ten miles].— Is a new station, 
in the midst of well cultivated lands, all fenced, and large farm 
houses surrounded by young fruit orchards. 

From Diamonds it is four miles to Mockonema, and two miles 
to CrksT, both stations only on paper. At Crest our road is on 
the side of a high bluff, from which we look away down to the left 
on the Palouse river, and also a fine race-track, in a pretty little- 
valley. This sporting resort is two and a half miles from 

CoIfclX — [Pop., 1,700; from Riparia, 60 miles; Moscow, 28 miles; Fanu- 
ington, 27 miles]. — Settled in 1873. Is the seat of Whitman county, 
and a flourishing and progressive town. It is situated astride the 
Palouse river, at the junction of the north and south branches. It 
contaius, besides the county buildings, the Colfax College, three 
churches, good district school, three banks, one flour-mill, one 
brewery, one planing mill, one sash, door and blind factory, one 
fanning mill manufactory, two weekly newspapers (the Gazette 
and Commoner) several hotels — the Thealson, Baldwin and 
Watson. 

Colfax has a good fire department and extensive telephone con- 
nections with the surrounding towns. Two miles east is located an 
extensive nursery. 

There are a number of large brick business blocks here, and 
several very heavy mercantile establishments, also stores and 
shops of all kinds. 

The live-stock and wheat interests are the most important in 
this vicinity; besides these, lumber, wool, flour, beer and general 
farm products are among the principal shipments. 

Connections — Rail: Moscow branch and main line "O. R. & N.:'' also, 
mail hack southeast, three times a week to Evartsville, ten miles; and 
Ontario, 12 miles; also, south, three times a week to Almota, 15 miles; Ilia, 
three miles- Mayview, five miles; Dixon, eight miles, and Pomeroy, eight 
miles; also, southwest, three times a week to Penawana, 19 miles; also, north- 
west, three times a week to Vulcan, 12 miles, and Coin, eight miles; also, 
north, special * service to Stepto, 14 miles. 



Detour Four — Over the Moscow Branch of O. R. &N. The 
route is southeast, up the south branch of the Palouse river, between 
high bluffs, dotted in places with pines and firs, and along the 
river with willows, rocks, farm houses, more wallows, wheat fields, 
more rocks, and so it goes. The first station, Riverside [eight 
miles], has long platforms and warehouses for handling wheat, as 
wheat seems to be about the only product offered for shipment. 
Shawnee [two miles], is another, and Guy [three miles] another 
wheat shipping point. The latter is situated in a lovely little val- 
ley, and has a population of about 250 in the near vicinity. 



The river valley, which has been narrow and rugged up to Guy, 
gradually widens, and the grade, which has been heavy, is much 
lighter. 

PllllUiail — [Pop., 350; from Colfax, 18 miles; Moscow, nine miles]. 
Is a new and thrifty town, situated near the crossing point of the 
Moscow branch of the O. R. & N. and the Spokane & Palouse 
branch of the Northern Pacific railroad. 

It contains a number of stores, grain elevator, two churches, 
a school, one bank and two hotels — the Palace and Empire. 



214 IN LATAH COUNTY — IDAHO. 



Both railroad companies have good depot buildings, chutes for 
loading live-stock and storehouses for grain. 

MOSCOW— [Pop., 1,200; from Colfax, 27 miles]. — Is the seat of Latah 
county, Idaho, situated at the west end of the magnificent Para- 
dise valley, and is about two miles east of the boundary line 
between Idaho and Washington. The valley is surrounded by roll- 
ing prairie lands, the greater portion sown to wheat and dotted 
with farm houses in every direction. Heavy timber is within ten 
miles of town, where are located a number of saw-mills. 

Moscow contains a number of large brick business stores, hotels 
and private residences; it has ten churches and ample school 
accommodations (building cost $12,000), a large grain elevator, 
several long wheat warehouses, a court house that cost $20,000, a 
fine depot, one bank, one large flour-mill, one plauing-mill, one 
brewery, chutes for loading live-stock, several hotels — chief of 
which are the Del Norte and Johnson — and two weekly newspapers, 
the Mirror and the Star of Idaho; also a number of large lum- 
ber yards. The principal shipments are wheat, lumber, live-stock, 
oats and general farm products. 

Connections— Mail coach: South, daily to Blain, eight miles; Genesee, 
seven miles, and Lewiston. 15 miles. [See "Lewiston;"] also mail coach north, 
daily to Viola, eight miles; Paloi se, six miles; Jamestown, eight miles, and 
Farmington, seven miles. [See "Farmington" for connections. J 

From Moscow — Mail hack southwest, once a week to Glenton, seven 
miles; Also, mail hack southeast, twice a week to Cornwall, seven miles; 
Brickaville, seven miles, and Juliette. 11 miles; thence northeast to 
L,kla.\d, nine miles, and Cameron, three miles. 

Latah County — Has all the essentials to make a rich and 
prosperous county. It contains a large proportion of as rich agri- 
cultural land as can be found in the west. Its present population 
is about 10,000, with room enough for ten times that number. 

The government still holds the title to fully one-half the lands in 
the county that can be taken up under the general land laws. 

Timber is abundant in the eastern part, and also some valuable 
mines of gold, silver and mica. 

The assessed valuation of the county is a little short of $2,000,- 
000. Its productions for 1888 were: Wheat, 820,000 bushels; oats, 
200,000 bushels; barley, 00,000; flaxseed, 140,000 bushels; corn, 
500 bushels. The county contains cattle, 14,130 head; horses, 
6,358 head; very few sheep; hogs 2,577. 

Improved lands are held at from $0 to $50 per acre. 

Returning to Colfax and resuming our seat in the cars on the 
main line, start again on our journey. The train backs down half 
a mile and then turns up the north branch of the Palouse river. 
Pine, fir and cottouwood trees border the river and the bluffs stand 
close in places on both sides. 

ElOCrtOli— LPop., 125; from Colfax, 13 miles]. — Is the first station, 
situated in a little park. It has several stores, a large wheat ware- 
house, saw and planing-mill, flouring-mill, and ships accordingly. 

Graduallv climbing up out from the river bottom we enter a 
rolling prairie country, where wheat is the great staple. 

Garfield — [Pop., 550; from Colfax, 18 miles; Farmington, nine miles]. 
Settled in 1883; situated on Silver creek, in a beautiful valley in 
the midst of great agricultural wealth. It contains a number of 
stores, three churches, a good school, one hotel — the Garfield — and 
one weekly paper, the Enterprise; also large grain warehouses. 



FARMINGTON — SPOKANE. 215 



Besides the main line of the "O. R. & N." Garfield is connected 
by the Spokane & Palouse railroad to the north and south; 
Spokane Falls, ;>!> miles; Palouse city, nine miles. 



FarillillJftOll — [Pop., Soo; from Garfield, nine miles; Portland, 389 
miles; Spokane Falls, 50 miles; elevation, 2,350 feet]. — Settled 111 1871; 
situated on Pine creek, Whitman count}-. Has three churches, 
good district school, one large flonring-mill, a brewery, a large plan- 
ing and shingle-mill, several hotels — the Whitman, the principal 
one; several large lumber yards, and one weekly newspaper — the 
Register. Farmingtou has a number of good brick and stone 
buildings and a full supply of stores and shops of all kinds. 

The valley in which the town is situated is very productive, 
and the same can be said of all the surrounding country. Wheat, 
oats, barley, hay, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables make good 
yields. 

The shipments of wheat for 1888 exceeded 1 4,< >< M I tons. Lumber 
and live-stock are important items of shipments. 

To the eastward, three miles away, are the Bitter Root moun- 
tains, at the base of which are located a number of saw-mills 

In November, 1888, Farmingtou was the "end of the track" 
for passenger and freight business, but the rails were laid ten 
miles further, and grading done for the balance of the way to 
Spokane Falls, where the trains over the O. R. & N. will probably 
arrive early in 1889. Another branch line is building east, for the 
Cceur D'Alene mining region, which will probably be pushed for- 
ward to completion during the next year. 



From Farmingtou looking directly west can be seen "Stepto 
Butte," made notorious in the days of Indian troubles. "Cash- 
up" Davis, who lives at the base of the "Butte," has erected an 
observatory on its summit called "Cash-up's Pride." 

The Cceur D'Alene Indian reservation is situated to the north- 
east 12 miles. 

Connections — Mail coach: North, daily to Lone Pine, six miles; Eatah, 
five miles: Carlew, ten miles; Rockford; five miles; Mica, nine miles, and 
Spokane Falls, 15 miles. Total, 50 miles. Also mail hack east once a week 
to Santa, 25 miles. 

Spokane Falls— [Pop., 13,500; from Portland, 438 miles].— Settled ill 
1872; incorporated in 1881; the seat of Spokane count}-. Spokane 
is situated at the great falls of the Spokane river on a broad 
"bench" of land with mountains in view on the north, east and 
southeast. The city is laid out to great advantage. The streets 
are wide and admit of practically unlimited extension both east 
and west without change of grade. It must not be imagined, how- 
ever, that the country in the vicinity of Spokane is characterized 
by the monotony of prairie land. The city extends along both 
sides of the river, which at this point, runs directly east and west. 
The greater part of the city now lies on the south side of the river. 
A few miles west of Spokane the country is hilly and covered by 
a scattered growth of pine trees. Directly south of the city is a 
very considerable elevation from which can be secured a view of 
the entire valley and the country to the north and east. Looking 
north, the range of mountains in the Colville country meet the 
eye. To the east and southeast can be seen the Cabinet, Bitter 
Root and Cceur D'Alene mountains. The view is one of great 
beautv- 



216 spokane; falls and vicinity. 

The water at the falls of Spokane river divides into three chan- 
nels and falls 156 feet by a series of drops, within the city limits, 
affording over 114,000 horse-power in low water and double that 
amount in high water, making one of the finest water-powers in 
America. Immense saw-mills and planing-mills are located on 
the south side of the falls; also four of the largest flouring-mills 
in the west — two of which produce 375 barrels a day. 

Spokane is built largely of brick and stone. Some of the 
largest and most expensive buildings on the Pacific coast are to be 
seen in this city. The city has nine public buildings (including 
court house, Masonic and other halls, opera house), four banks, 
one savings and loan, 18 churches, two select schools, one high 
school and a number of public schools. The higher educational 
institutions are Spokane college, Gonzaga college, in charge of 
Jesuit Fathers and Sisters Holy Cross. There are two large pot- 
teries, one iron works, three breweries, a business college, Hos- 
pital Sacred Heart, 12 secret order lodges, and man}- Christian and 
benevolent societies. There are eight newspapers, two of which 
are daily and weekly — the Chronicle and the Review — and a score 
of hotels, chief of which are the Grand, Windsor and Pacific. The 
parks are Ross and Cceur D'Alene; the latter comprises eight 
acres. The government has a land office and a signal sendee 
office located here. 

Spokane is provided with a fine system of water works and a 
good fire department. Gas, electric light, telephone, street cars, 
cable and motor roads are among the conveniences of the city. 

The Board of Trade of Spokane Falls is a very energetic body 
of men. They are all active, experienced business men who have 
the good of Spokane at heart. They have elegantly fitted apart- 
ments in which to transact business, furnished with Brussels car- 
pets, and old colonial style of antique oak furniture. Theirs are 
the finest furnished board of trade rooms on the coast. 



Connections — Rail: East and southwest, via Northern Pacific railroad; west, 
via Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railway; south, via Spokane & Palouse rail- 
road; southeast, via Spokane & Idaho railroad, and Cceur D'Alene Railway & 
Navigation Co. All run daily trains. 

By mail coach south, daily to Mica, i.s miles; Rockford: nine miles, Latah, 
15 miles, and Farmington, 18 miles. [See under "Farmington."] 

By mail coach, west, daily to Deep Falls, 15 miles; Capps, nine miles; 
Mondora, seven miles; Davenport; nine miles; thence north to. Larenh, 
six miles; Egypt, eight miles, and Miles, eight miles. 

By mail hack, north, three times a week, to Welch, 18 miles, and Colville, 
67 miles. 



XfeiTAt many points of the above-named main lines connections 
are made with lines that run one or more times a week to a great 
many small places. 

jjjjg^Don't you forget that Crofutt's Overland Tours Xo. 
2 describes the routes represented by red lines on the map in 
this book — of which it is a twin brother. 

A Caiiforuia "49-er" is all wool, yard wide, and 22 karats fine. He was "horn 
again" when he landed in California — full grown — with his boots on, and a 
double and single set of teeth all around. 

J8GJ=- You never saw such ignorant roses in all your life, as on the Pacifie 
coast. They bud and blossom the year around, and never stop to undress or 
take a wink of sleep. 

T11 the Chinook language: Hy-iu means much, many plenty, enough. Hy- 
iu till-icum, a crowd; many people; Hy-iu muckamuck, plenty to eat; tenas 
hy-iu, some few-; wake hy-iu, not many or not much. Muck-a-muck, to eat, to 
bite food; muck-a-muck chuck, to drink water; skookum chuck, a rapid. 



UMATILLA — COLUMBIA RIVER. 21' 



PE\»LETOX-WEST. 



Returning to Pendleton, we start once more for the west, via 
the main through line. 

Leaving Pendleton, direction west, we follow down the Uma- 
tilla river through an agricultural region with little specially to 
note, passing Barnhart [eight miles], Yoakum [eight miles], Noland 
[three miles], 1 and arrive at 

Echo — [Pop., 350; seven miles]. — Settled in 1881; situated on the 
Umatilla river, where is located a large flouring-mill, turning out 
100 barrels of flour a day; several general stores, three churches, 
good district school, and the Arlington hotel comprise the town. 
Shipments — flour, wheat, lumber and farm products, also some 
live-stock. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southwest twice a week to Atwood, 13 miles; 
thence west to Alpine, six miles; thence southeast to Calloway, seven miles; 
thence southward to Acton, four miles, and Heppnkr, 17 miles. [See connec- 
tions uuder "Arlington" and "Pendleton".] 



Leaving Echo and passing the little station of Foster's 
[four miles] and MAXWELL [nine miles], we reach the sand dunes of 
the Columbia, and six miles from Maxwell are on the south bank 
of the Columbia river at 

Ulllifttillil — LPop., 1S0; from Pendleton. 44 miles; Wallula, 27 miles; 
Portland, 1S7 miles]. — Situated on the south bank of the Columbia 
river; is the "junction" station for the O. R. & N. railroad line 
along the Columbia, north and south, as well as their line east that 
we came over from Huntington. The place contains a general 
merchandise store, a flouring-mill, and a hotel — the Umatilla. 
Yes, and not forgetting '"Uncle Jack's" hotel and restaurant — 
an old-time settler in the western country from away-back in 
the "fifties," and like that other old pioneer, Judge Kelly, of the 
Statesman at Boise, is loaded with rich reminiscences of ye olden 
times. 

Umatilla, before the railroad, commencing in 1862, was a busy 
place, there being a good ferry crossing here. "Pilgrims" for cen- 
tral Washington and the Puget Sound country made this place a 
resting and outfitting point on their journey. Then, too, it was 
the upper landing point for river steamboats for all passengers and 
goods destined for the Boise and rich mineral districts to the east- 
ward. At that time 3,000 people congregated here, with immense 
wagon and pack-trains coming and going continually. 

The shore-landing was packed with goods awaiting transporta- 
tion. Stages left regularly, loaded with passengers, and all was 
life, bustle and activity; streets and avenues were as well defined 
and named as in any city of to-day, and street sprinklers were in 
daily use. It had a regular city government; the streets from east 
to west were named A, B, C, etc., those paralleling the river 
from north to south by numerals — 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. The railroad 
track and depot is now on old Fourth street. 

Mid all the wonderful changes in this place for a third of a 
century, "Uncle Jack" alone remains hale and hearty, but suffer- 
ing, at times, by an almost death wound, received one night in the 
"sixties" from a "bear-gun," set on a mountain trail over which 
he was "packing." 



UPPER PALISADES — GRANDO ! 



Now, when teams arrive to cross the ferry, Indians act as ferry- 
men, packing wagons and goods across in their canoes and swim- 
ming the animals. 

The Advertiser was a tri-weekly paper, published at Umatilla, 
in "the good old da)^," when the paper recorded the freight rates 
to Boise at ten cents per pound; to Owyhee, 16 cents, and to Idaho 
City, 15 cents. Flour the paper quotes at $12 per 100 pounds; 
bacon, 38 cents; sugar, 24 cents, and everything in proportion. 



IROn IMATILLA-IP THE COLUMBIA. 



Side Tour \o. 16— From Umatilla up the Columbia 
river, through the upper palisades to wallula and walla 
Walla, connecting at the latter with Side Tour No. 15. 

Leaving Umatilla junction the direction is to the northeast, up 
the eastern bank of the famous Columbia river. 

At Umatilla, our starting point, the river bed between banks is 
about three miles in width, with gradual grassy slopes on each side 
extending back for several miles. As our train proceeds these slopes 
become narrower at every revolution of the wheels; little hills 
begin to appear, then rocky spurs shoot out from taller bluffs and 
crowd our way. Grassy slopes are seen no more. The river bed, 
too, is crowded into half its width at our starting, and the water 
tumbles down over a series of rocky rapids, most beautiful to behold. 

Our train has gained in elevation much faster than the river, 
and the bluffs within a few miles have grown to sheer walls of rock, 
500 feet above our heads. At the same time, our train is running 
on a narrow shelf of these same walls, 150 feet above the river. 
The changes are rapid! The views, grand! The surprises, marv- 
elous! At one turn in the road the towering walls seem to open, 
letting in a flood of light. And our iron steed, seemingly desirous 
to get away into the open country, turned directly for the opening 
leaving the river to its back; but the run was a short one; the 
bright prospects proved deceptive, the opening a delusion; the 
walls presented a solid front and our engine was sufficiently alive 
to the situation to whirl away to the left just in time to save a col- 
lision, running beneath the overhanging cliffs directly for the river, 
but far above it. It is a wild ride. 

In Utah they would call it the "Devil's ride." On thunders 
our train, and just when it seems that we must be dashed into the 
Columbia, our engine whirls to the right on the very nose of the 
canon spur — and there, behold! — the grand! the beautiful! the up- 
per Palisades of the Columbia. The Palisades are in the shape of 
a monster semi-circle, a magnificent amphitheater ten miles in 
diameter and over 2,000 feet in height. The base of these 
j>iant walls are washed by the now broad and placid Columbia, 
leaving barely room between for our passing train. 

These walls are black basaltic cliffs, standing forth in number- 
less wild fantastic shapes. In places, volcanic cones and dikes, 
and castellated forms appear, beside which are crevices, deep 
chasms, and ghost-like caves, relieved by nary shrub or vine, or 
flowering plant. Standing alone, the grandeur of these cliff walls 
is found in their magnificent desolation, but taken in connection 



DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 219 



with the majestic Columbia, the light and shade, the little emerald 
border setting of the river, the scene is one of peculiar beauty — 
one long to be remembered with pleasure, if not profit. 

In sweeping around to the northern end of this huge semi- 
circle, the train turns abruptly to the right, and both Palisade and 
river are suddenly lost to view. Almost simultaneously the engine 
gives forth a long, terrific blast and crosses the Walla Walla river 
and stops at 

»VilIllllSi — [Pop., 300; from Umatilla, 27 miles; Portland, 214 miles; Walla 
Walla. 31 miles]. — Situated on Walla Walla river near its junction 
with ihe Columbia and at the junction of the 0. R. & N. and the 
Northern Pacific railroads. Also the junction of the Walla Walla 
branch of the O. R. & N. and the Oregon & Washington Territory 
railroad. It's pretty much all "junction," being at thej unction of 
sand dunes and sand ridges. The O. R. & N. Co. have at this place 
the largest, finest and most complete hotel and dining station build- 
ing of their entire system, and it's well kept. The building, beside 
about 50 guest rooms, has a large dining-hall and lunch room, and 
contains the waiting rooms for passengers and the railroad ticket, 
telegraph, express and baggage offices of the company. 

The station consists of three general merchandise stores, sev- 
eral restaurants and saloons, and about 200 railroad employes. 

The connections are all by rail, by the lines above named. 



Taking the Walla Walla branch from Wallula, the route is di- 
rectly east, up the Walla Walla river; the first station is 

TrOHOliet— [Pop., 60; from Wallula, 15 miles; Walla Walla, 16 miles]. 
Is situated on the north bank of the Walla Walla river at the junc- 
tion of the Trouchet river. One general store and farmers' surround- 
ings comprise the place. 

Continuing eastward, farmers and stock-growers possess the 
country, and there is little to interest the traveler until the city of 
Walla Walla is reached, where this tour terminates, connecting 
with Tour No. 15. 



Returning to Umatilla we resume our main tour west. 
FROU UMATILLA TO PORTL.WD. 



Ueaving Umatilla we soon cross the Umatilla river and run 
along down the south bank of the Columbia. 

The way is through ridges of sand, which drift like snow, in 
proportion to the velocity of the wind. Stock-raising is now the 
chief industry, particularly on the Washington side of the river; 
the north side is Washington and the south side Oregon. 

Passing STOKES [seven miles] and CayoTE [nine miles], our train 
stops for a moment at CASTLE ROCR [nine miles], where one store, 
chutes for loading cattle, and about 60 settlers comprise the station. 
The staple productions are sand, sage, cattle and Indians. 

The grass-covered rolling prairies which have been with us on 
the north side of the river from Umatilla are now giving place to 
bluffs and rocky buttes; at the same time our roadway is gradually 
being crowded closer and closer to the river bank. 



111 



Willow* Junction— [ten miles] — Is reached just after cross- 
* Willow creek. Here the O. R. & N. Co. are building a 



ARLINGTON — BLALOCK'S. 



branch southward to Heppuer, which is completed 4-"> miles, and 
will probably be extended to Canyon City and Ontario at no 
distant day. 

The cliffs crowd our way, leaving just room enough between, 
their rugged sides and the river for our passing train. 

Passing the junction, WILLOWS [two miles] is reached, a side- 
track .station with a fine depot, where is accumulating a large 
amount of construction materials for extending the Willows 
branch. This station, owing to the limited yard room at the 
"junction," will probably be the starting point for all trains on the 
"branch" when it is completed and trains running. 

Arlington — [Pop., 850; from Willows, nine miles; Umatilla, 45 miles; 
Portland, 142 miles]. — Is the seat of Gilliam county, and a regular 
meal station for some trains. Very little of the town is visible 
from the depot, as it is built astride a crooked ravine, half a mile in 
length, that comes down from the bluffs to the southward just at 
the depot. The town has quite a number of good brick business 
blocks and many large mercantile houses, beside stores of many 
kinds, two banks, several hotels, one weekly newspaper — the 
Times — three churches, and a good district school. 

The county is fast settling up with thrifty farmers, wheat and 
live-stock being the chief productions. The shipments are live- 
stock, wheat, wool and farm products. 

Stock-raising is now the chief occupation of the settlers on 
both sides of the Columbia river. 

A steam ferry-boat conveys passengers and teams across the 
river from opposite the depot. 

Connections — Mail coach: Southeast daily to Ione, 30 miles; Pettysville, 
four miles; Lexington, six miles, and Heppner, nine miles. [See connections 
under "Pendleton."] Also, mail coach south, daily to Baird, seven miles; Olex, 
eight miles; Glem. ten miles; Condon, eight miles: Maryyille, 13 miles, and 
Fossil, eight miles. 

From Olex — Mail hack southeast, twice a week to Fletts, nine miles: 
Gooseberry, ii miles; thence south to Idea, five miles, and Lone Rock, ii 
miles. 

From Condon — Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Matney, six 
miles, and Lost Valley, 14 miles. 

From Fossil — Mail hack eastward, twice a week to Wagxek, 35 miles, and 
Monument, 22 miles. [See under "Baker City."] 

Prom Fossil — Mail hack south, twice a week to Contention, 20 miles; 
thence southeast to Waldron, 15 miles; thence southwest to Mitchell, 15 
miles; Crescent, 20 miles; thence west to Howard, 19 miles, and Prineville, 
19 miles. [See under "The Dalles.]" 



BlaloekN— [From Arlington, eight miles].— Is a small station for 
passing trains and shipping cattle and wheat, about the only 
productions in this region. 

Connections — Mail hack: South, twice a week to Rockville. 12 miles. 



For many miles of our way down the river the bluffs have been 
gradually increasing their elevation until walls of rock appear, 
crowding close to the river, rising from 800 to 1,000 feet above the 
railroad, which finds a rough and tortuous way between riverandcliff. 

From the summit of these cliff-walls a broad table land extends 
far away to the southward, much of which is occupied by settlers, 
whose principal productions are live-stock and wheat. How to 
reach these lands from the railroad, by teams, is often a problem 
difficult to solve without great expense in constructing wagon 
roads up the rough and steep ravines, or along the face of the 
cliffs, for landing wheat and other grain at the foot of the cliff- 



SHOOTING WHEAT. 221 



wall convenient to a shipping point on the railroad or river, a 
plan of fluming is in use, but operated differently in different 
places. 

Feuming Wheat — About half a mile below Blalock's is a flume, 
made of lumber about six inches square, that extends from a side- 
track and platform for shipping grain to the top of the cliff, about 
1,200 feet in length, supported by props and cables. At the upper 
end of the flume, and in connection with it, is a large bin con- 
structed in such a position that farmers can back up their teams 
and dump their entire load into it, the grain rushing down the 
flume with great velocity to another large bin, where the grain is 
put up in sacks for shipment. 

In some other places along down the river, the grain is put into 
sack- before shooting it down the flume, but in those cases the 
flumes are verv much shorter as well as much larger. 



.Several miles below Blalock's the basaltic cliff-walls commence 
to present a more pronounced series of terraced, dike formations on 
both sides of the river. These terraces slope back in tiers of from 
four to six rows, much like some of the pre-historic battle mounds 
seen in Arizona and Mexico. 

These steps rise sheer one above the other, from ten to 50 feet 
each, extending with great uniformity for many miles, laid up 
seemingly with all the precision of a master-workman. 

PEUTo's Caldron — Is a wild collection of volcanic cones, 
buttes, needle-pointed rocks, mounds, lava beds and an endless va- 
riety of curious black rock formations of every conceivable shape 
and form. 

Our engine seems to thread its way cautiously through this 
witches' caldron. Yet, there is no longer any "bubble, bubble, toil 
and trouble." 

Near the "caldron" is Souaeey Hook, and a magnificent suc- 
cession of rapids in the river, which is here crowded close between 
the cliff-walls on either side, where it goes tumbling down in one 
tumultuous sheet of sparkling foam, most beautiful to behold. 



Rolling over a high trestle bridge and John Day's river at the 
same time, soon passing the side-track of John Day's, and then the 
little station of RuFUS, formerly Wallace, but not down on the 
"time cards," where there is one store, a platform for shipping 
grain, several young orchards of fruit trees and many huge sand 
drifts, arrive at 

(lil'ailt* — [Pop.. 80; from Blalock's, 22 miles; The Dalles, 23 miles]. 
Formerly known as Villard. It contains several stores and hotels 
and does a large shipping business in grain, live-stock, wool and 
general farm products from the country to the southward. 

The basaltic cliffs near the station rise sheer 1,000 feet above the 
railroad. Here is another chute for landing grain from the top of 
the mountain wall to a sacking bin at its base. 

Connections— Mail coach: West, daily across the river to Columbus, four 
miles; thence northwest to Centerville, eight miles; thence northeast to 
Goldendale, seven miles. Also, from Grants, mail hack south, three times a 
week to Wasco, ten miles; Monkland, 12 miles; De Moss Springs, four miles; 
Mora, three miles; Erskinville, three miles; Grass Valley, six miles, and 
Rutledge, seven miles. 

From Rutledge — Mail hack south, twice a week to Kent, 14 miles. 

From Grants — Mail hack southeast, twice a week to Emigrant, 12 miles; 
also, from Grants special * service southeast to Grover, 22 miles. 



222 MT. HOOD — NATIVES. 



Biggsi— [Pop., 75; from Grants, three miles].— Is a little side-track 
station, with one general store, and sand drifts varying to 30 feet in 
height, shifting with the wind like snow drifts in New England. 
The principal shipments are wheat and sand, "'alf and 'alf." And, 
by the way, the wheat from Biggs weighs something less than 200 
pounds to the bushel. 

On the north side of the Columbia opposite Biggs can be seen 
the graded track of the Northern Pacific railroad, made many years 
ago in order to hold a land grant from the government — 20 miles 
in width. The government withdrew the land from market, the 
road was not built, yet it is kindly held in reserve for the railroad 
company during the latter's convenience. Generous "Uncle 
Sam!" 

Leaving Biggs the scenic views of river, Miller's Island, Hell 
Gate and beyond is very grand and beautiful. Passing De ChuTES, 
[four miles] a side-track and station building, one mile brings our 
train on the bridge over the De Chutes river. g®°Remember to 
look to the left and view the beautiful rapids close above the 
bridge; they are fine. 

ColllO— [four miles]— is the next statiou, a mere side-track now, 
but once upon a time it was a noted place, with a population of 
1,0(10 or more. At that time there were only 18 miles of railroad 
along the entire river — six miles around the cascades and 12 miles 
from The Dalles to Colilo. There was then, as now, a line of steam- 
boats from Portland to the cascades, where a rail transfer was 
made to boats above, which ran up the river to The Dalles, where 
another transfer was made from The Dalles by rail, 12 miles, to 
Colilo, where another line of boats ran eastward to Umatilla. The 
line from The Dalles eastward to this station and above has been 
discontinued, but the lower line is still in operation, affording 
passengers a choice of routes to and from Portland and The Dalles, 
without additional fare. 

The rapids and falls of The Dalles are now on our right, and will 
continue to the city of The Dalles. 

Indians are numerous at all times in the vicinity of The Dalles, 
particularly in the fishing season. They catch and dry great quan- 
tities of salmon, selling what they can and packing the balance 
away for winter use. The fish roe is a great luxury with the 
Indians, who separate the eggs and dry them in the sun until they 
become very hard, resembling fine bird shot. 

Most of the Indians in this vicinity belong to the John Day's 
and Colilo tribes. One Indian and squaw T who live in a little 
"teepe" just above the middle falls are said to be 12") and 121 years 
of age, respectively. Had we guessed their age from their mummy- 
fied appearance, we should have placed their birth co-equal with 
"the first man and the first woman," and it may be when Adam 
and Eve were turned out of Eden they came over to The Dalles. 

£ix miles above the city of The Dalles, just below Summit sta- 
tion, a fine view can be had of Mt. Hood, directly west, 40 miles 
away. It is the standpoint from which Bierstadt painted his pic- 
ture of Mt. Hood, for which Mr. Vanderbilt paid him $20,000. 

Less than 60 vears ago fashion pronounced the little ravines of James river 
ami the Connecticut, the proud spots of America, and held the great unin- 
habited wastes of the Mississippi, and its unnavigated streams as worthy only 
to balance codfish. 

A ton of pure gold is valued at 5602.799.20. 



1S20— the; daises— 1889. 223 

XllC Dalles — [Pop., 4,300; from Umatilla, 99 miles; Portland, 88 miles]. 
Settled in 1820 by the Northwestern Fur Co. ; in 1836, by the 
Methodist missionaries; in 1846, by the Catholic padres, and in 
1847 by a more permanent class of settlers from "the states." In 
1850 the government established a military post here garrisoned 
by the "boys in blue." The first steamboat — the Flint — arrived 
at The Dalles in 1851, previous to which the entire business of 
river transportation was done by flat-boats and canoes, the latter 
similar to those now in use by the Puyallup Indians on Puget Sound. 

The discovery of gold in the Colville region in 1855 brought an 
immense trade via The Dalles; again, in 1858-9 the Fraser river 
river excitement, and again in 1861, when the discoveries were 
made in Idaho, eastern Oregon and Montana, the rush of gold 
hunters and their followers numbered thousands multiplied by 
scores. At that time The Dalles was a "booming" city, and many 
fortunes were made by those in mercantile and trauspo'rtation 
business. Most towns are fortunate in having one "boom." The 
Dalles had three prior to the arrival of the greatest, which com- 
menced with the building of the O. R. & N. railroad, in 1880, up 
the Columbia river eastward. For nearly three years The Dalles 
was the depot of supplies for this work, in which thousands of men 
were engaged and millions of dollars expended. During all these 
years of prosperity the rich agricultural and grazing lands lying 
to the southward, in what is now Wasco count}', were being taken 
up and settled upon by ati enterprising and thrifty class of people. 
The ready market afforded at The Dalles for all the productions of 
the settlers — from both farm and range — stimulated them to re- 
newed efforts, until at the present time the shipments of wheat, 
live-stock, wool, hides and general farm products are larger than 
any county in the state of like area. The fisheries and salmon 
canning companies afford shipments annually aggregating many 
thousand tons. 

The city of The Dalles is situated on the south side of the 
Columbia river three miles below the principal Dalles rapids, at a 
point where the river makes a great bend to the south, west and 
northward, describing a half circle six miles in diameter. On the 
outer rim of this monster crescent, when the points are directly north, 
sloping back from the river about three miles to basaltic cliffs which 
rise to an altitude of 1,000 feet above it, is the city of The Dalles. 
It is a lovely site for a city, and we might add it is a lovely city. 
As an educational city it is provided with two first-class academies — 
the St. Mary's and the Wasco Independent — six churches and 
ample district and graded schools. It has an excellent system of 
water works and an efficient fire department, three banks, one 
brewery, one flour and feed-mill, one planing-mill, two large pack- 
ing houses, just half a dozen hotels, chief of which are the Uma- 
tilla and Cosmopolitan, and two weekly newspapers — the Sun and 
the Times-Mountaineer. Extensive machine shops belonging to 
the O. R. & N. are located here, also a U. S. laud office. Here are 
a number of large brick and stone business blocks, a $25,000 court 
house, many elegant brick private residences, and stores, shops 
and small manufactories of different kinds. 

WaXER-power — The Dalles, with the largest water-power on 
the Pacific coast, does not utilize it to roll a wheel! Why? 

The Dalles has a Board of Trade. Who knows it outside of Wasco 
county? 



224 THE DALLES AND VICINITY. 

Here should be located the largest manufactories in the west! 
Here should be located the Lowell of the Pacific! We would 
suggest to that Board of Trade that they induce a Spokane Falls 
man to settle in their city and wake them up. 

Fruit — of all kinds is grown in this vicinity. Orchards are 
everywhere about the city, and the gardens and grounds of the citi- 
zens are embowered in fruit trees aswellas flowersandcreepiugviues. 

Climate — For climate, the great capital stock of some places 
that we could name, here reaches a happy medium between the 
wet and dry — western and eastern Oregon. The extremes of all 
kinds meet at The Dalles, and seem to compromise. The air is 
pure and mild, while invigorating and healthy. 

vSeENERY — Well, stop at the Umatilla house a week, wander 
about ten hours each day, and at the end of that time you will only 
just begin to realize the scenic beauties surrounding the beautiful 
city of The Dalles; then you will wish you had decided to stop over 
a mouth. We cannot describe this region adequately, life is too 
short; come and see for vourself. 



Connections — Daily line of steamers to Portland; ferry-boat across the 
river to the Washington side. Also, mail coach south, daily to Boyd, ii miles; 
Nausene, six miles; Shkrar Bridge, 13 miles; Bake Oven, 20 miles: Cross 
Keys, 25 miles; Hay Creek, ten miles; Cleek, ten miles; and Prineyille, 18 
miles. [See under "Ontario."] 

From Bake Oven — Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Antelope, 
nine miles; Cherry Creek, 25 miles; Burnt Ranch, seven miles; and Mitch- 
ell, 17 miles. 

From Antelope — Mail hack east, three times a week to Crown Rock, 12 miles; 
Francisyille, 12 miles; thence north to Fossil, nine miles. 

From Prineville — Mail hack east, twice a week to Howard, 19 milts; Cres- 
cent, 19 miles; thence north to Mitchell, 20 miles. 

Also from Prineville — Mail hack southeast, once a week to Mowkv, 45 miles; 
Pai-lina, 12 miles; thence south to Hardin, 13 miles; Riley, 12 miles: thence 
east to Burns. 30 miles. 

Also from Prineville — Mail hack once a week to CROOK, 30 miles; Price, 15 
miles, and Hardin, 25 miles. 

Also from Prineville — Mail hack west, once a week to Sisters. 42 miles. 

Also from Prineville — Mail hack southwest, once a week to Bend, 35 miles; 
Crater, 18 miles; and Pengra, ten miles. 

From The Dalles — Mail hack south, three times a week to Dufur. 15 miles; 
Kixgsley, 15 miles: Tvi.n Valley, six miles; Warnic, six miles, and Wapini- 
tia, 11 miles. 

Also from The Dalles — Mail hack south, twice a week to Sinnemasho, 12 
miles; and to Warm Springs, 18 miles. 

Also from The Dalles — Mail hack north, three times a week to Hartland, 12 
miles: thence west to Lylk, 14 miles. 



Leaving The Dalles, well, we do not believe there arc another 
50 miles of such varied, grand and magnificent scenery in the world 
that can compare with it. Our train rolls around the circle and 
starts once more to the westward, passing rugged black basaltic 
ridges, cliffs, buttes, knolls and chasms; dodging through deep 
cuts, occasional tunnels, and over high trestle bridges; then, in 
view of huge dikes and terraces of rocks, lovely little parks, lakes, 
farms, orchards, islands, meadows, groves and crystal brooks. 
Anon, little cascades, and cascades tumbling down 1,000 feet; 
on the brink of the river at one moment, and another in a dark and 
gloomy gorge; at one time on a high embankment — the base 
washed by the river — and then beneath overhanging walls 1,500 
feet in height; another whirl, and before one could count their 
beads, a dense thicket of oaks, pines, firs Cottonwood and vines 
appear, garnished with ferns and countless flowers. Arid over all, 
an everlasting sentinel, stands Mt. Hood, bareheaded, except with 
the frosted hair of countless ages. 



"The Tacoma"— at Tacoina— is the largest and finest hotel on the North 
Pacific Coast; but it costs more in " tips " to get service than the office charges. 



SAM LOWENSTEIN, President. WM. KAPUS, Secretary. 

OREGON 
Furniture Manufacturing Co. 

OFFICE AND SALESROOM: 

No. 208 & 210 RlRST STREET, 

Factory, No. 207 & 209 Front St. 
Shipping Dep't, No. 7 & 9 Salmon St. 

Portland, Oregon. 

Manufacturers of and Dealers in 
all kinds of 

FURNITURE 

Diplomas and. First=class iN.4ed.als were 
awarded to this Company at 

OREGON STATE FAIR, 1876. 

CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION, 1876. 

PARIS EXPOSITION, 1878. 
PORTLAND MECHANICS' FAIR, 1881, 

NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1885. 

PHOTOGRAPHS AND PRICE LISTS 

Furniahei 1 on application. ^X.11 orders 1 >v letters 
promptly attended t' >. 




COLUMBIA RIYER 




BY MOONLIGHT. 



First Yie-w by trie Jesuit Fathers- 



KNIGHT, FRYE & MILLS, 

REAL ESTATE BROKERS. 

City and Suburban Property For Sale. Loans Negotiated. Property Rented 

and Rents collected. Insurance and Notary Public. Special attention 

given to collecting Pills, Notes, etc. Searching of Titles and 

Abstracts given. Write to us. 

1403 PACIFIC AVENUE, 

ROOM 1, SECOND FLOOR. TACOMA, W.T. 

We also are handling several additions to the City of Tacoma, among them 
Mills' Highland Park Addition. We invest money for non-residents and 
guarantee safety. We refer any one wishing reference to any bank in the City 
or the Citv Mavor. 



CHAS. H. AITKENJr, 

NOTARY PUBLIC, 

REAL ESTATE AND HOUSE BROKER, 

INSURANCE AND GENERAL COLLECTION AGENT, 
1309 Pacific Avenue, -• - TACOMA, Washington Ter. 



Houses and Lots for sale and to let. Loans Negotiated. Particu- 
lar attention paid to collection of Rents. Full charge 
taken of Property for absentees. Insurance, Re- 
pairs, Taxes and Street Assessments 
attended to. Bad tenants ejected. 



PERSONS coming to Puget Sound with a view of making a 
home or investing in Real Estate should, before deciding 
upon a location, visit different points, study the geographical 
position of the several Cities and Towns, note the character of the 
population and examine the relative business and commercial 
prospects of each, and then determine. 

ROSS & N ALBERT will take pleasure in showing the "City 
of Destiny" to any who may desire to avail themselves of the 
opportunity. 

1001 A ST., MASON BLOCK, TACOMA, WASHINGTON TER. 



SEATTLE. No blizzards, heavy snows or cyclones. 
Average winter temperature 43 degrees above zero. 
Seattle, largest city in Washington Territory. Popula- 
tion 25,000. Commercial, Educational and Financial 
center 1 >f Puget Sound country. Full information of Queen 
CITY, SE-AT-TLE, CHAS. H. KITTTXOFR, 
Secretary Seattle Board of Trade, Seattle, Wash. Ter. 




We shall not attempt to describe the varied scenery along this 
route in detail; no attempt of man could do it justice, and we 
opine the recording angel would down his pen and bless his eyes 
in huge disgust, when he disc overed the half had not been told. 

The stations down on the "time cards" often fail to materialize. 
ROWENA [nine miles] and MoSiER [seven miles] are both side-tracks 
for passing trains. 



22tj hood— cascadp: locks. 



Hood river is crossed half a mile before reaching the station of 
Hood River — [Pop., 200; from The Dalles, 23 miles; Portland, 65 miles]. 
Situated near the junction of Hood river with the Columbia. 
The town is in a grove of trees, on an elevation overlooking the 
river and station. It consists of four churches, a good district 
school, one general store, saw-mills, several summer boarding- 
houses, and the Mt. Hood hotel. It is the stopping place and out- 
fitting point for visitors to Mt. Hood [elevation, 11,225 feet], ln sum- 
mer, stages run regularly for Mt. Hood resort — 2") miles; fare for 
round trip, $5. 

The scenic views at Hood river and vicinity are indescribably 
grand and beautiful. 

Passing VlENTO [eight miles] and YY'vhth [six miles], seven miles 
brings our train to the noted 

CaSOSUlO LiO<'Ks — [Pop., 250; from Hood River, 20 miles; Portland, 

45 miles]. -Besides the government business going on here, the 
place consists of five general stores, several saloons, but no hotel. 
One good hotel is badly needed. Here we found another of the 
old-time settlers of Oregon — Dr. Leavens. He has been in this 
country since 1833, and is a living encyclopedia of matters pertain- 
ing to this western country. 

With suitable hotel accommodations for tourists and cottages 
for families, we believe there is no place in the wide world that 
could afford more natural attractions than this. In grand moun- 
tain, forest and river scenery ; in springs of cold, warm and hot 
medicinal waters, now "running wild " within a short distance of 
the station ; in varieties of haired and feathered game — deer, bear, 
grouse, etc., and fishing, taken in connection with the admirable 
climate and ease of approach — affords unrivalled attractions, just 
such as would be patronized by tens of thousands of visitors 
annually. 

Cascade Locks should not be confounded with Cascades, the 
seat of Skamania county, Washington, generally known as 
Lower Cascades, by which name it will appear in our tour up 
the Columbia by steamer. 

The shipments of salmon from this station during the fishing 
season are very heavy, running into the hundreds of tons. 

On the Washington side of the river are vast forests of the 
finest timber, where are located some ol the largest saw-mills 
along the river. 

Old Blockhouse. — On the opposite side of the river from the 
station, in plain view, is situated the blockhouse once occupied 
by the late Gen. Sheridan, when he was proud of the title of 
"Lieutenant." It is in a dilapidated condition and can last but 
a few years longer. 

The Lock. — The question of improving the navigation of the 
Columbia river by a system of locks was before congress for many 
vears, but not until 1S7<> were any practical results obtained. That 
year $60,000 was appropriated to commence operations. Various 
subsequent appropriations have aggregated $1,500,000, and it is 
estimated another million will be required to complete the work. 
It is about 11 years since work commenced, and it is estimated 
about five years more will be required before the work will be 
completed; provided, there is 110 delay for the want of the necessary 



COLUMBIA RIVER SCENERY. 



227 



appropriations of money by congress. The lock now being 
constructed is eight feet deep over mitre sill at low water ; 402 
feet long, and 90 feet wide ; lift of 24 feet. 

There' are now employed at the work about 200 men of all 
classes, and quite extensive buildings for the use of officers and 
men, and storehouses for materials and supplies are located here. 

Leaving the station at the Locks, in half a mile a fine view of the 
falls and also of the work being done un the big lock can be obtained 




228 "mui/Tum in parvo." 



BoilMCVillC — [From Cascade Locks, four miles], — Is a regular meal 
station and a very good one; expense, 75 cents. The station is 
situated in a grove of firs and pines on the river bank. Just below 
on the opposite side of the river is the town of Cascade; the rail- 
track down to a long floating platform is the landing transfer 
wharf of the Portland and The Dalles line of steamboats. It will 
be on our Tour No. 19. 

Fisheries — Beginning at ''the dalles," three miles east of the 
city of Tl^e Dalles, fisheries are to be seen at many places along 
the river, on both sides. At some of these are large wheels for 
catching fish by water power, and large buildings for packing and 
canning. From Cascade Locks to the mouth of Columbia river 
they are plentiful — never out of sight of one or more. 

Leaving Bonneville, a number of large fisheries and one can- 
ning establishment are passed; also DodsonS [four miles]. 

Here the down-river view is exceedingly grand, after which 
get ready to view the Multonomah falls. They will be close on the 
left, in a narrow gorge, and can only be seen for a moment; hence, 
this advice, but we first pass OnEOXTA [four miles], and then look 
sharp, in another mile is 

Yliilf onomuh Fall* — Both falls and station. The latter is 
wake kloshe, the former — Immense! sheer drop 850 feet. [See 
Tour No. /y and large view No. /. | 

Bridal Veil— Is a station and Faee [four miles from MultonomahJ. 
The former contains a large saw-mill and about 75 lumbermen; the 
latter— falls— can be seen close to the left on leaving the station. ( See 
illustration, page 225. ) 

Pillars of Hercules — or Needle Rocks— are to be seen ahead 
soon after leaving Bridal Veil; they are between the railroad and 
river, and form a gate-way to the beyond. On the top of the tallest 
rock grows a thrifty pine, the roots of which are squeezed in 
a crevice of the rock. [See illustration, page 25$. 1 

Rooster Rock — or Latourelle Falls— [pop.. 60; from Bridal 
Veil, four miles; Portland. _>.} miles]. — The station consists of a general 
store, two saw-mills, and a few private residences. The attractions 
are the falls — a drop of 400 feet — behind which one can walk, and 
the noted Rooster rock, of which more hereafter, on river tour. 
[See large view No. 4.) 

The views of river, falls, rock and cliff scenery, at this point 
are indescribable, they are extended, grand and most beautiful. 

Leaving the Rooster and passing through a tunnel, another 
marvelous view bursts upon the vision. We are now through the 
Cascade range of mountains, and out upon a broad rolling country, 
leaving the Columbia river far to the right. It will be in view no 
more on this tour. 

Crossing Sandy river, we soon pass the little stations of TrouT- 
dai.E [seven miles] and Fairvihw [three miles]; the latter is fairly 
named, as a fairer view of fair objects could not be had outside 
of a fairy realm. 

( '. i.T Ready — Like a hungry government mule in sight of a 
corn crib our engine, almost in sight of Portland, is rattling along 
at a lively rate. 

The porter comes up smiling, "Brush? brush ye off.'" He is a 
good fellow; give him a "tip," be lias earned one. Then look 
around and gather up your "grips," wraps and Torus, by which 



GEM OF OREGON. 229 



time the train will be on the big bridge over the Willamette river, 
and a look up and down the river, and the towns and cities beside 
it, may be one of interest. 

HoTELvS — Where to stop in Portland is a question now to be 
decided, as at the other end of the bridge there will be nearly three 
score and ten shouters, and all for as many different hotels. The 
Esmond, Oilman, St. Charles and Merchants' are the nearest to 
first-class. Rates grade down from $3 to $1.50 a day, with free 
'bits to and from traius. 

Portland — [ Pop., including East Portland and suburbs, 50,000; eleva- 
tion, 53 feet]. — 19 the seat of Multnomah county, situated on the west 
bank of the Willamette river, about 114 miles from the Pacific 
ocean, at the mouth of the Columbia river, and ten miles above 
the junction of the Willamette and Columbia rivers. It is a port 
of entry, where steamers and sailing vessels, drawing as high as 20 
feet of water, can pass up and down, to and from, without 
trouble. 

The large steamships which ply between Portland and San 
Francisco, drawing from 14 to 18 feet of water, come arid go almost 
on railroad time. 

Portland is the chief commercial city north of San Francisco 
on the Pacific coast, being situated in the midst or at the gateway 
of the immense traffic of the state of Oregon and the greater por- 
tion of Idaho, Washington and Montana territories. Portland is 
also the great railroad center of the North Pacific coast. 

The location of the city is most picturesque. Along the river 
front for nearly three miles are wharves, ferry docks, immense 
warehouses, depot buildings, jobbing houses, manufactories, etc. 
The slope from the wharf to the first parallel street is not far from 
60 feet. Extending back for nearly one mile the slope is gradual, 
after which the grade increases, and terraces of streets extend along 
one above another until the ascent, within one and a half miles 
from the .river, becomes almost too steep for firs and pines to root 
and stand; yet we see in nooks and glens the cozy cottage of the 
tradesman, and on more commanding points the castle of the na- 
bob. Towering above all, a thousand feet above the river, a forest 
ridge confronts the vision; some are mighty trees, that should a 
squirrel climb them ten score feet, his rest would then be far below 
the eagle's perch. But could we sit beside the game, what would 
we see? To the north and westward the Willamette and Columbia 
rivers, with their prows of commerce and numerous islands shaded 
with forests and bordered with industries. To the northeast Mts. 
Rainier, Adams and St. Helens rise from a border of green and gold. 
Turn now to the east and south ; at our feet is Portland and her eastern 
namesake and suburb, divided by the Willamette in its journey 
through the beautiful valley from the south. Raising the eyes over 
immense forests the long dark range of the Cascades is in view, with 
Mt. Hood as the central figure. The memory of the "oldest in- 
habitant" runneth not back to the date when this grand old moun- 
tain was dressed ivholly in summer clothes; in fact, they are frank 
to affirm that around the summit of Mt. Hood the snow ever rests 
and for eight months of the year its white reservoirs will vary to 
100 feet in depth. 

The city of Portland, in fine business blocks, manufactories, 
imports and exportations, steamship and railroad facilities, costly 



230 PORTLAND AND SUBURBS. 



public and private buildings, and general improvements and thrift, 
with but one exception, has no equal on the Pacific coast. It con- 
tains 33 churches, seven schools, and school property valued at 
$356,000, 12 banks and bankers, six large flouring-mills and 1 1 flour 
and feed-mills, nine foundries and machine works, six engine and 
boiler works, three packing houses, 16 furniture manufactories, 
12lumber companies, nine planing-mills, four sash, door and blind 
factories, four breweries, two broom factories, four carriage and 
wagon works, and many smaller manufacturing establishments. 

The great number, size and extent of business of the wholesale 
mercantile establishments of Portland is a marvel. Their trade 
covers the entire drainage of the Columbia river and its tributaries 
in Oregon, Washington and the greater portion of Idaho and 
Western Montana, something over 300,000 scmare miles. 

Travel where you will in this region Portland is on the tongue 
of the people. Portland! Every mention of business is connected 
with Portland. 

Of retail stores and shops of all kinds the city is abundantly 
supplied, including nine Chinese, which do a heavy business with 
their people throughout the area of country above named. 

The city is well provided with water works and an efficient fire 
department. It has ten colleges, academies and educational insti- 
tutions, a library of 15,000 volumes, cable and street horse cars. 
The hotels number scores, the Esmond, Oilman, St. Charles and 
Merchants' leading; two American theatres and one Chinese. 
Then there are a great number of newspapers. The Oregonian is 
the chief. * The. Democrat, News, Telegram and Freie Presse 
(German) are each daily and weekly. The prominent weeklies 
are New Northwest, Journal of Commerce, Mercury, Times, 
World, Rural Spirit (agricultural), and Farmer and Dairyman. 
The West Shore is a fine monthly; each number is a mine of in- 
formation. Eor a "time-table" guide of the northwest, buy Lewis 
& Dryden's. For a condensed mass of reliable information, send 
to W. R. Struble, secretary state board of immigration, for a copy 
of the "New Empire," sent free. 

Portland is embowered in foliage; ornamental shade trees, or- 
chards of fruit, beautiful gardens and lawns abound, while on the 
slopes of the heights the native firs and pines rise from a bed of 
ferns, vines and countless varieties of flowers, ten score feet or 
more. A magnificent emerald border overlooking the richest dia- 
mond setting in all the great northwest — Portland and its suburbs. 

EAST Portland and Aubina — Are the thrifty suburbs of Port- 
land, situated on the eastern bank of the Willamette river opposite, 
connected by bridges and ferry lines, and sustains to it the same 
relative position as Brooklyn, N. Y., does to the city of New York. 
Timber ridges are close to the back of the towns, around which are 
young orchards, gardens and scattering private residences. 

Rail-tracks extend along the entire river front, besides large 
warehouses, where an immense shipping business is carried on. 
There are quite a number of manufactories in these places, among 
which are two lar,L, r e canning works, saw-mill and three breweries. 



Connections — The railroads centering in Portland are Oregon 5c Califor- 
nia. Oregon Railway 5c Navigation, Northern Pacific and the Oregonian. 

The steamer lines are numerous — too munerous to mention here — but steam- 
ships, for nearly every port up and down ihecoast, on the Columbia, Willamette, 
Cowlitz and Clatskaiiie rivers run regularly. 



POINTERS — CONDENSED. 231 

gggplf you want to learn all about the country from Portland 
through southern Oregon and the whole length and breadth of 
California to Ensenada, Old Mexico, buy CROFUTT'S OVERLAND 
Tours No. 2. It covers the whole route noted by the red line on 
the map in this book. 

San Francisco — by water — The Oregon Railway & Naviga- 
tion Company run a regular line of steamships between the City 
of Portland and San Francisco, California ; leaving Portland at 
12 midnight and San Francisco at 10 a. m., semi-weekly; time 50 
hours. Rates of fare : Cabin, $16 ; steerage, $8 round trip, 
unlimited, $30. These rates include meals and berths. 

jggp^The route to the mouth of the Columbia river is the same 
as noted in Side Tour No. 17. 

Oregon and Portland City — Miscellaneous items and 
statistics for 1888. — We are indebted for man)- of the following 
items to the Portland Oregonian. 

Educational— The educational facilities of Oregon are of the 
first order, and consist of 45 universities, colleges, academies and 
private schools. There are 1,530 organized school districts in the 
state, and 55,402 children on the rolls, of which the average 
attendance numbered for 1888, 40,872 pupils. There are 2,343 
teachers. Average salary for males $48.03 ; females, $36.97. 
Number of school houses, 1,439; valuation of public school 
houses, $1,190,650 ; valuation of public school property, $1,350,668. 
Amount raised by direct tax, $179,785.22. Amount raised by 
county tax, $322,243.52 ; amount raised by counties for state school 
fund, $108,217.25; amount raised from all other sources, $92,774. 

Counties — There are 29 counties in Oregon, the assessed val- 
uation of which [at one-third actual value] was in 1887, $84,888,580 ; in 
1888, $85,893,429— increase, $1,004,849. 

gglfThe first school in Portland, Oregon, was a private one, 
opened by Dr. Ralph Wilcox in the fall of 1847. On March 31, 
1856, districts Nos. 1 and 2 were consolidated. The Central school 
was opened May 17, 1858 ; Harrison street school, January 1*2, 
1806 ; North school, February 10, 1868 ; High school, April 26*, 
1809; Park school, September 1, 1879; Failing school, October 
9, 1882 ; Couch school, January 2, 1883. 

Jojgg^Total banking capital of Portland for 1888, $7,824,(19!). 

gig^The Portland Board of Trade is a strong body of men, 
numbering 243 members. 

I The total business of Portland for 1888 amounted to 
$911,000,000. 

Emigrants — A close estimate gives the number of emigrants 
who settled in Oregon during the year 1888 at upwards of 60,000. 

{tglf'The arrivals at the Portland hotels for 1888 show an 
increase over 1887 of more than double the number. 

fiSpTn strolling around Portland, one will seldom see "to let" 
on any building. The buildings are usually all rented before 
they are ready for occupancy. 

g&gfThe real estate transfers of Portland for 1888 amounted 
to $7,035,866. 

J8@*Portlaud building and street improvements and street rail 
tracks, $2,162,500. In suburbs, within six miles, $1,360,139. 

A man or woman without enemies is oflittle value. 



232 



FACTS AND FIGURES. 



Meteorological — At Portland the year 1888 afforded 60 
rainy days. January 15 was noted for the lowest temperature ever 
recorded in Portland — two degrees below zero. The month of May 
was the warmest, with the least rainfall of an}- May on record, the 
highest temperature being 91 degrees — lowest, 38 degrees; average 
20 degrees. June had the most rain of any June on record, and Julv 
had seven days in succession on which the temperature was above 
90 degrees — rainfall, 29.05 inches. 

New Railroad Bridge — The new railroad bridge at Port- 
land, over the Willamette river, is of steel and iron. It consists of 
a draw, the length of which is 340 feet, and a fixed span 320 feet 
long, making a total length of OHO feet. 

Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. — The following official 
figures will give the readers an idea of the amount and class of 
business done by the O. R. & N. Co., for the year ending June 30, 
L888 : Total number of passengers carried during the year, 196,563; 
earnings from same, $784,996.35 ; freight earnings, $3,530,558.42; 
total from all sources, 84,542,752.25. 

FREIGHT IN TONS. 

Merchandise 126,722.3 \ Oats 10,564.2 

Lumber 82,571.8 Barley 13,969.7 



Agricultural implements 6,633.8 

Household goods 

Cattle 18,207.0 

Hogs andsheep 8,945-7 

Fish 17,691.8 

Hides i,33°-7 

Wool..... 9,138.0 

Wheat 324,954.1 



Flax seed 8,822.2 

Flour and feed 58,558.5 

Potatoes 6,272.1 

Hops 1,378.8 

Fruit 4,762.8 

Wood 20,958.7 

Coal 4,858.9 

Miscellaneous 205,016.6 



Tons, 
Increase over 1887 — 51,752.7 tons. 



935,869.7 



RAILROAD MILEAGE. 



Columbia division 
Mountain 
Eastern 
Palouse 



214.1 
217-5 
134.0 
121.3 



Heppner branch 45.2 

Total mileage. 

Increase over 1887 — 08.5 miles. 



Dayton branch 13.0 

Pomeroy " 29.5 

Pampa " 53.0 

Moscow " 27. s 

845.4 



In addition to its lines of railroad the O. R. oc N. Co. operates 
steamship lines as follows : 



Portland to San Francisco, 670 miles 
Between Puget Sound points, 283 " 
Portland and Eugene, 172 " 

Portland and Astoria, 98 

Total, 



Portland and Lower Cascades, 63 miles 
Upper Cascades and The Dalles, 51 " 
Celilo and Priest's Rapids, 205 " 
Riparia and Lewiston, 78 " 

- • - - - 1,620 " 



The company have in service three ocean steamships, 16 river 
steamers, and eight barges and wharf-boats; total27; value, $373,075. 
PORTLAND INDUSTRIES FOR 1S8S— Condensed. 



HANDS BUSINESS 

Flour and feed 196 53,357,662 

1,501,200 

825,000 
800,000 
686,500 
624 .8. in 
460,000 
380,000 
366,000 
300,000 
250,000 
222,500 
200,000 
200,000 
172,000 
755,000 
150,000 
150,000 



Foundries 976 

Lumber mills 517 

Woolen mills 345 

Furniture 400 

Printing 310 

Planing-mills 210 

Breweries 53 

Paint and oil 19 

Confectionery 102 

Crackers and bread.,.. 90 

Cordage 35 

Gasworks 18 

Dressmaking, etc 165 

Harness and saddlery 70 

Spices and coffee 17 

Fruit packing 196 

Meat packing 50 

Boat building 100 



HANDS BUSINESS 

Bags, tents, etc 50 $130,000 

Reduction works 25 127,852 

Wagons, etc 100 125,000 

Paper mill 70 125,000 

Waterworks 45 

Cooperage 42 92,000 

Ice 31 91,000 

Wooden boxes 7" 91,000 

Furs 23 90,060 

Soda water 22 75.000 

Brick i.so 64,000 

Tanneries 20 56,000 

Electric light works... 20 60,000 

Marble 35 50,000 

Pottery i" 35,000 

Jewelry 16 35,000 

Lime and cement 10 25, 

Miscellaneous 400 500,000 



l'otal (Footings), 



5,009 $13,884,522 



FLOATING DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 233 



A summary of the whole wool clip of the Pacific northwest 
foots up as follows : 

Pounds. 

Western Washington 500,000 

Willamette valley 1,000,000 

Southern Oregon 500,000 

Territory west of Cascades 2,000,000 

The Dalles..". 4,500,000 

Grant's 500,000 

Arlington 2,500,000 

Echo 1,000,000 

Pendleton 2,000,000 

La Grande 1,000,000 

Baker City 750,000 

All of eastern Oregon 12,250,000 

South of Snake river 2,000,000 

North of Snake river, 1,000,000 

North of Columbia river 1,000,000 4.000,000 

Total of Columbia region 18,250,000 



DOWX TO THE (MEAX, 



Side Tour No. 17 — From Portland, down the Colum- 
bia, to Kalama, Astoria and the Pacific Ocean. 

The regular steamers of the O. R. & N. line leave Portland 
morning and evening for Astoria. Many of these boats compare 
favorably with those plying on eastern rivers. The staterooms are 
large, the cabins neat and comfortable, and the meals such as to 
delight an epicure. 

The morning boat leaves at o'clock, and is the one to take to 
view the scenery by daylight. Then, for the return, if the night 
be clear and a full moon at half mast, and you desire to behold 
scenery unspeakably wild, weird, grand and beautiful at times, 
take the night boat from Astoria and you can ' 'make a night of it, " 
the remembrance of which will remain vivid to a ripe old age. 



Leaving Portland the direction is a point west of north for 4(1 
miles, changing gradually to the westward for the remainder of 
the distance. Steaming down the Willamette river ST. John's 
[six miles] is the first landing. It contains a little church, a little 
store and a big warehouse for shipping produce; for a background 
it has a forest of pines, with fruit orchards and gardens in the little 
clearings. 

Ten miles from Portland the Willamette joins our old friend, 
the Columbia river. At this point, should the sky be clear, a fine 
view can be had of Mt. Hood to the east, and Mts. Rainier, 
Adams and St. Helena, their white peaks glistening in the morn- 
ing sun. 

There are many islands in the river along its entire length which 
are very generally covered with pines, cedars, willows, ferns and a 
dense undergrowth of shrubs. On some of these islands clearings 
can be seen, with neat white farm houses, grain fields, orchards and 
gardens. The same can be said of the country on each side of the 
river, the forests extending away back to the summit of the moun- 
tains, in places 30 to 40 miles. 

Commencing about 40 miles from Portland we come upon the 
great harvest fields of the salmon fishermen, whose nets, fishing 
plants and canneries extend all the way to the mouth of the Colum- 
bia river, with Astoria for general headquarters. 



234 1808— ASTORIA— 1889. 

Saillt IlelCllX — [Pop., 300; from Portland, 2; miles] . — Is Oil the 

Oregon side, and is the seat of Columbia county. It contains sev- 
eral stores, a court house, and a weekly, Oregon Mist. 
The lumber interest is the most important here. 



Connections — By rail: Northern Pacific and mail hack west, twice a week 
to Pittsburgh, 20 miles; thence south to Vernonia, five miles. 



Kalauia — |Pop., ioo; from Portland, 3S miles]. — Is the seat of Cow- 
litz couutv, situated at the Columbia river transfer crossing of 
the Portland and Tacoma line of the Northern Pacific railroad. It 
contains a good depot, several stores and saloons, three hotels — the 
Riverside, Kazano and Havana — and the Cowlitz Advocate. 

Leaving Kalama, our boat on its way down the river stops at 
an even score of landings, where salmon fishing, canning and lum- 
bering are the only industries, and passing many more, apparently 
of the same kind, with the islands and the mountains on both 
sides covered with a dense forest of pine, spruce, cedar and hem- 
lock timber. Steaming beside great rocky spurs, shooting down 
from the higher mountains, and dropping sheer a thousand feet at 
the water's edge, with the river gradually widening to two, three, 
four and five miles. On the route we pass scores of great ships, 
steamers and river craft, and countless numbers of swans, geese, 
ducks and other water fowl, 011 all sides. 

Shooting out from the southern mountains a long, high prom- 
ontory confronts our way and vision. Will it move? Our boat 
heads directly for its rocky nose — "Tongue Point" is its name, 
and it stands there solitary and alone, lapping the briny waters of 
the Pacific. The boat clears the "tongue" within a few fathoms, 
and there it is directly ahead, but 17 miles away, the great Pacific 
ocean. Just to the left, nestling in beside the mountain, is 

Astoria — [Pop.. 7.000; from Portland, 98 miles], — Settled ill 1808, 
being the first settlement on the Pacific coast. It is the seat of 
Clatsop county, situated near the mouth of the Columbia river on 
a promontory facing Point Adams [at the "jetty," 15 miles west], 
and flanked by Young's bay. Its chief industry is salmon fishing 
and canning, being the headquarters of the Columbia river fish- 
eries, and does by far the largest salmon fishing business of any 
citv in the world. 

The city is built around the semi-circular side of a promontory, 
which rises 1,000 feet above the waters, covered with timber from 
base to summit, except where it has been cleared for building pur- 
poses. The residence portion is built on this sloping ground, 
shaded in many places by giant trees of nature's planting. All 
the principal business streets are supported on piers or piles over 
the waters, also, all the docks, wharves, warehouses and many of 
the large business blocks have their foundations in the water, the 
tide under or about them, rising from ten to 12 feet. The city has 
quite a number of fine brick business blocks and brick residences, 
stores and shops of all kinds, seven churches, three schools, with 
12 teachers and 510 scholars — the buildings cost $40,000 — three 
banks, three planing-mills, large steam saw-mills, two sash, door 
and blind factories, iron works and one brewery, an opera house, 
with a seating capacity of 1,500, electric light, telephone, etc. 

Vessels from all parts of the world visit Astoria. The average 
number loaded each year at her wharves is about 200. 

The principal shipments from Astoria are salmon and lumber. 



-SALMON FISHERIES. 



235 




ISLANDS IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 



The city has a Chamber of Commerce, three hotels — the Occi- 
dental, Astor and Barker — signal service office and five newpapers 
— the Astorian and the Pioneer, both daily and weekly, and the 
Transcript, weekly. 

Astoria is often called the "Venice of America." The site is 
certainty a very beautiful one, but we presume the name was sug- 
gested by so much of the city being built over the water of the 
bav. 



Salmon Canning — Is the chief industry at Astoria. Here are 
located 28 large canneries, the annual business of which amounts 
to nearly $3,000,000. 






236 GRAND ROUND-IP. 



The pack for 1888 amounted to 800,820 cases; the pack for ten 
years ending with 1888 aggregated 5,067,820 cases, or 243,255,480 
cans. 

The fishing season commences with April and ends with July, 
four months, when nearly 5,000 men are employed. The law pro- 
hibits the catching of fish in the months of August and September, 
but allows them to be caught all other months of the year; but 
thev are very scarce except in the mouths above named. 



Clatsop County — Is largely mountainous, but there is a con- 
siderable amount of rich bottom land, well adapted for cultivation, 
when the ground has been cleared of timber. 

There is also some very rich tide flat land which only wants 
diking to make it very valuable hay land. Clatsop plains, a strip 
of land lying along the seashore, which has been settled for 35 
vears, is the largest body of agricultural laud in the county. The 
soil is light and sandy and produces vegetables, grain and small 
fruits in abundance. But little wheat is raised, oats and barley 
being the principal cereals. Hay is the chief crop, and dairying 
the leading occupation with the farming population — and its dairy 
products are especially fine. 

For a hardy, industrious class of emigrants, who are not afraid 
to go work vigorously and clear up the forests, this region offers 
many advantages. There still remains a large amount of land sub- 
ject to entrv under the various land laws of the government. 

Connection's — Steamers for San Francisco and up and down the coast; also, 

to ILWACO, OYSTERVILLE, SEASIDE LANDING, GRAYS HARBOR, TILLAMOOK ; 

also, from Astoria, mail hack, once a week to Olney, ten miles; Denver, i) 
miles; thence south to Jewell, four miles; Mishawaka, nine miles: also, from 
Astoria, mail hack south, once a week, to Shadwell, ii miles; also, from As- 
toria, southwest, three times a week toSHlPANOK, seven miles; thence south to 
Seaside, 12 miles; thence south, once a week to Onion Peak, iS miles; Neha- 
lem, seven miles; Folley, nine miles; Garibaldi, seven miles; thence, three 
times a week to Hobsonville, two miles; Kit, cms, four miles, and Tilla- 
mook, seven miles. 

From Astoria — Mail boat northwest, daily to Ilwaco, 15 miles; also, north, 
mail once a week to Knappton, seven miles; also, northea?t, mail once a 
week to Spark's Point, 15 miles; Gray's River, six miles. 

Returning to Portland we start once more on our main tour 
TO Pl'GET SOIXD COl'XTRY. 



main Tour — From Portland to Olvmpia, Tacoma, 
Seattle:, Whatcom, Port Townsend, Victoria and the 
Puget Sound Country. 



The route to be taken from Portland is by the Northern Pacific 
railroad, from their depot in Portland down the west bank of the 
Willamette and Columbia rivers to Hunter, where a transfer boat 
takes the entire train on board and crosses the Columbia to 
Kalania, and thence northward to Tacoma. There are two regu- 
lar trains each way a day, both in the morning at 2 o'clock and 
11:05 o'clock. The latter is the best to take. It is the Portland 
and Tacoma train. 

"All aboard!" is now the command, and our train rolls 
gently along through the suburbs of Portland, passing immense 
saw-mills, potteries, iron works and warehouses. Then comes the 

In Utah a man is rated according to the number of wives he has, thus: A 
man with two wives is a "two-ply" Mormon; one with three, a "three-ply. " 
Each wife adds a "ply." 



HUNTKR — KAL.VJIA. 



race-track (maybe in view of a race) and forests of oak, ash, fir, 
hemlock and cottonwood trees, sandwiched with willows, vines, 
ferns and flowers, with an occasional clearing showing farms, 
young orchards of fruit and vegetable gardens. Such being the 
description of the whole route to the crossing at Hunter, 38 miles, 
with the addition of great numbers of small inlets, creeks and little 
rivulets traversing the way; the whole is bordered on the left by a 
high wooded ridge, and on the right by the river and numerous 
islands, with here and there small fisheries, saw-mills and little 
side-track stations. 

Noted Mounts — Should the day be clear many of the noted 
mountain peaks can be seen at different points along the route 
from the car windows — Mt. Hood to the east and Mts. Rainier, 
Adams and St. Helens to the north and northeast. They range in 
altitude: Hood, 11, 225 feet; Rainier, 14,444 feet; Adams, 0,-570 
feet, and St. Helens, 0,750 feet. For the greater portion of the 
year these peaks are covered with snow, and at all times it can be 
found in the nooks and gorges about their summits. 

HlllltCl* — [From Portland, 38 miles; Kalama, two miles; Tacoma, 107 
miles].— Here the regular passenger trains meet; the one from 
Tacoma has just run off the transfer boat and is standing on the 
side-track to the left. An engine is attached to the rear end of our 
train which is then divided in the middle and one-half the train is 
pulled and the other pushed onto the transfer boat, which immedi- 
ately steams away across the river for Kalama, and the bell rings 
for a 50-cent dinner in the cabin of the boat. 

Kalama — [See Tour No. ij ) page 234^ — Is reached by our train 
after going over the pull and push process adopted at Hunter for 
loading, when it steams away for the northward beside a high 
timber-covered ridge on the right, and the Columbia river on the 
left, and stops at 

Carroll'8— [five miles].— A small station just below the mouth of 
the Cowlitz river. Here the only industry is lumbering. Saw and 
shingle-mills, one general store and about 50 settlers comprise the 
place. 

Leaving the Columbia our train turns to the right up the Cow- 
litz river through a dense thicket of undergrowth, pines, spruce, 
hemlock, ash and willows, the larger timber having been cut off. 
Saw-mills are now the rule, and lumbering and wood-cutting the 
chief occupations of the settlers, although there area few clearings 
where farms, orchards and gardens are to be seen. Stock-raising 
is also a growing industry. 

Kclao— [Pop., 150; from Kalama, n miles].— Is a lumbering hamlet 
situated on the Cowlitz river where there are a number of cleared 
farms that produce abundantly of ever}' seed put in the ground, 
as the soil is of the richest black vegetable mold, intermixed with 
fine sand, quick, rich and warm. 



Following the river it is ten miles to 

Castle Rock, or Silver Lake statiou--[p p., 525; from silver Lake, 
six miles]. — Several general stores, saw and shingle-mills, two hotels 
— Spencer and Central— and numberless large tree stumps com- 
prise the station. The beautiful Silver lake is east from the station 

six miles. 

Connections— Mail hack; East, twice a week to Silver Lake, six miles; 
Sightly, seven miles, and Toutle, three miles. 



238 WIN LOCK — CHEHALIS. 



Leaving Castle Rock the country is unusually rough; tall pines, 
firs and ash trees cover the valley and slopes together with a dense 
undergrowth of willows and ferns. The river and all the little 
streams are utilized in times of high water for floating logs and 
wood. Five miles from the last station our train crosses the 
Cowlitz river, which comes down from the east to its west bank, 
and leaving it, we pass in two miles the little lumbering camp of 
OLEOUA, and Sopkna [four miles], another of the same kind, and 
then the big Rhoades saw-mill. 

WilllOC'k — [Pop.. 550; from Portland, 77 miles; Tacoma, 6s miles]. — This 
is a new settlement among the stumps, of what was only a few years 
ago a dense forest. It is now an important lumbering town, with 
five general merchandise stores, a number of small shops, two 
churches, a good district school and one good hotel — the Winlock. 



Connections— Mail coach: Southeast daily to Cowlitz rive miles; thence 
south to Toledo, two miles. 

From Cowlitz— Mail hack north, once a week to Ethel, eight miles. 

Also from Cowlitz— Mail hack northeast, three times a week to Ladew, seven 
miles; Sai.kcm, six miles; Silver Creek, four miles; and Mossy Rock, seven 
miles. 

From Mossy Rock— Mail hack east, once a week to Osborn, five miles, and 

Vance, 25 miles. 

Leaving Winlock, fire, more than the woodman's ax, has de- 
stroyed much of the large timber along the line of road, but the 
young growth of trees is very thick and growing rapidly, among 
which are tamarack, pine, fir, ash, oak and maple. 

\;i|KM UK - — [Pop.. 100; from Winlock, seven miles]. — Is situated in 
the timber, with two stores, a church and three large saw-mills and 
a shingle-mill. Besides the ordinary board lumber, a large business 
is done here in getting out large timbers and ties for the railroad. 

It is a thrifty town. 

Connections— Mail hack: East twice a week to Rankin, nine miles; Til- 
den, seven miles 

Passing the little station of NEWAUKUM [from Napavine, four miles], 
a lumbering camp with one store and a big saw-mill, situated 
on Xewaukum creek, we soon reach Chehalis valley, in which are 
many fine farms. 

Cliolmli!* — [Pop., 600; from Napavine, seven miles; Tacoma, 64 miles]. 
Settled in 1871. Is the seat of Lewis county, on the Chehalis 
river. It contains five churches, good schools, three general stores, 
two saw-mills, a shingle-mill, one planing-mill, two flouring-uiills, 
one bank, several hotels— the Chehalis, the principal one— two 
weekly papers, the Bee and Nugget. The principal shipments are 
lumber. Hour, wheat, oats, hay and fruit. 

Connections— Mail hack: West, twice a week to Ci vquato, five miles; 
thence south to Boistford, '.en miles; thence west to Pi Ki.i-. nine miles. 

Ceiltrilliil — [Pop., 1, ; from Chehalis, four miles, Tacoma 50 miles}. 

Settled in 1871. Formerly known as Skookumchuck. It is a 

thrifty town, beautifully sittiated on the Chehalis river, along which 
are some agricultural lauds, producing great crops of wheat, oats, 
hay, potatoes and farm produce. 

It has three churches, and a good district school; two llouring- 
niills, four shingle and lath-mills, two saw-mills, two hotels— the 
Ceutralia and Arlington— and one weekly paper, the News. 

Surveys for a railroad pass through the town from (bay's 
harbor eastward, claimed by some to be in the interest of the 
Southern Pacific Co., of California. 



MTS. TACOMA — RAINIER. 239 

Connections — Mail hack: West twice a week to Medow, eight miles; 
thence southeast to Gleneden, five miles. 

Also northwest to Grand Mound, nine miles; thence southwest to Indepen- 
dence, eight miles; thence northwest to Oakvtlle, five miles. [See under 
"Olympia.."] 

Leaving Centralia some fine fields appear, then more timber, a 

big saw-mill, Skookumchuck creek, then the station. 

SCJltCO — [Pop., 650; from Centralia, seven miles; Tenino, four miles]. 
The station is down on the "time cards," as "Bucoda, " but 
Rucoda is nearly one mile away, where are located the Northwest 
Coast Coal Co. 's coal mines. The coal from this mine is lignite 
and, while inferior to anthracite, or the best quality of bituminous 
coal, burns readily, and is a coal in good demand. The vein is 
seven feet thick, opened by a slope, 14 feet wide, seven feet high 
and 800 feet long. The out-put for the first nine months of 1888 
aggregated 49,160 tons, employing 7& persons, eight mules and 48 
cars of one ton capacity each. Most of this coal is shipped to 
Tacoma and Olympia, and then sent to San Francisco on vessels. 

Seatco is situated on Skookumchuck creek and contains two 
general stores, one sash, door and blind factory, one planing-mill, 
two saw-mills. The principal shipments are coal and lumber. 



IClllllO — [From Portland, 106 miles; Olympia, 16 miles; Tacoma, 39 
miles]. — Here goes forth the "Tenino, change cars for Olympia!" 
This is merely a junction station where the Olympia & Chehalis 
Valley railroad connects with the Northern Pacific. 

{Hf The tour over this route, taking in Olympia, the capital of 
Washington, will be SIDE TOUR No. 18, commencing on page 24!). 

From Tenino, our direction is more to the eastward, crossing 
the Des Chutes river, and passing through many small clearings, 
then into the timber again, only to be repeated time and again. 
Many of the moss views while passing are very beautiful, the 
pendant moss being very long, resembling, at a distance, trees 
loaded with snow and icicles. 

Yd ill Prairie — [From Tacoma, 23 miles]. — This "prairie" is 
more adapted to hay and oats than other productions, yet others 
are grown to a limited extent. The prairie is more of a Park, 
surrounded, as it is, on all sides by forests of timber. Stock-rais- 
ing is a growing industry in this region, as second to lumbering. 

Mr. Tacoma — Is the name for Mt. Rainier in this region, 
and Woe! to the person that calls it "Rainier" in the hearing of a 
citizen of Tacoma. 

But what is in a name? If the sky be clear a most beautiful 
view can be had of the grand old mountain from this prairie. 
How would a combination name do? Rainier-Tacoma or Tacoma- 
Rainier? A Seattle man would want it Seattle-Rainier. 

Nisqually river now conies in view, along which are some pros- 
perous settlers; crossing, fenced fields appear to enclose good crops. 

Passing the little station of Media [four miles], sometimes called 
"Roy," with its store and lumber business, and then through a 
strip of country about equally divided between grass-land and 
timber, we reach HiEEHURST [six miles], where grain and hops figure 
among the productions. Then comes Lake View [five miles], from 
which it is eight miles to the protege and prodigy of the Northern 
Pacific Railroad Co., its headquarters and terminus on the Pacific 
coast — Tacoma. 



240 CITY OF TACOMA. 



TcM'OlllH — [Pop., 14,500; from Portland, 145 miles; Seattle, 41 miles]. 
Settled in 1873. It is the seat of Pierce county, the western term- 
inus of the Northern Pacific railroad, and the head of navigation 
on Puget sound, and at the mouth of Puyallup river. Its situa- 
tion is most commanding and picturesque, being on the sloping 
side of a high promontory, extending out into Commencement 
bay, facing to the east and northward. On the eastern face the 
slope is gradual from the water's edge; on the more northern the 
bluff rises sheer 800 feet, leaving only room enough along the 
water's edge for a railroad track. From the top of the bluff the 
laud slopes up gradually. The streets paralleling the bay are built 
in terraces and extend up for half a mile to a lovely table land, 
commanding a most extended view to the east and north. To the 
back of this table land, less than half a mile, stands a dense forest 
of pine, fir, ash, cedar and maple trees, with a rank undergrowth 
of shrubs, vines, ferns and wild flowers. 

It is only a few years ago since this entire promontory and 
plateau was covered with heavy timber, as evidenced to-day by 
the great number of stumps still standing, many from three to 
five feet in diameter. The residence portion of the city is built 
upon the higher slopes and on the elevated table land. Here may 
be seen magnificent private residences in course of construction, 
surrounded by stumps higher than your head. So anxious are the 
citizens to build, and so valuable the time to these rustling, bust- 
ling and driving people, that they clear away a spot large enough 
to build upon, get the roof on, move in, and attend to the stumps 
at their leisure. 

The business portion of the city is on the lower streets, where 
are many palatial brick and stone business blocks, filled with 
enormous stocks of goods of all kinds, and from almost every 
land and clime. Here, too, are immense shipping interests in coal, 
lumber, wheat and all kinds of domestic and foreign export and 
importations. Vessels from all parts of the world are among the 
arrivals at this port, bringing the rich goods from the Orient to 
exchange for those of the Occident, thus constituting Tacoma the 
entrepot and commercial center, or gateway between the old and 
the new world. 

In the rush and boom of business, it's but natural to forget all 
else, yet the Tacoma man remembers his God, as evidenced by L'4 
church organizations in the city; or, can it be that he is like a 
prominent member of Mr. Beecher's church, always ready to pay 
liberally, but didn't want to be bothered about God. 

The schools are in a flourishing condition. There are two 
institutions here of much merit — the Annie Wright seminary for 
girls, and the Washington college for boys. 

The city has a very complete system of water works, and an 
efficient fire department. 

Coming now 7 to business, the city contains five banks, seven 
lumber and three large coal companies, one iron works, three 
planing-mills, two shingle and lath-mills, one sash, door and blind 
factory, four furniture manufactories, three foundry and machine 
works, two flour and feed-mills, three carriage and wagon works, 
two breweries, one ship-builder, one pottery, four brick and tile 
works, and one broom factory. 

.Street cars traverse many of the principal streets; electric light, 
telephone and all the modern improvements are at Tacoma. 



TACOMA AND VICINITY. 241 

The Northern Pacific Railroad Co. have here an extensive plant 
of machine works, employing a large force of men. 

The wharves and piers are on the northern face of the city, 
reached by a wagon road from the bluff, by an expensive dug-way 
blasted from the face of the cliff wall. 

There are three theatres, one business college, six newspapers — 
the Ledger and News, both daily and weekly — the World, weekly 
and the Die Wacht Aus Sunde (German), weekly; of hotels there 
are just a score; the principal ones are the Tacoma, Villard, 
Western, Central, Halstead, Massasoit and Hotel Fife — the latter 
on European plan. The charges at these houses rate down from 
$3 to $1.25 a day. 

Transfer "busses" and wagons meet all trains and boats; 
charges, 50 cents for passengers, and 25 cents for trunks. 



Connections — By rail: Northern Pacific railroad for the north, east and 
south by steamer for all points on Puget Sound. 



Smei/Ting Works — The Tacoma Smelter company, organized 
in October, 1888, have secured 25 acres of land four miles west 
from Tacoma and commenced erecting large works for smelting 
the ores from the Cceur D'Alene mines of Idaho. The parties are 
all heavy capitalists from St. Paul and Chicago. The principal 
reason for locating at Tacoma was the cheap coal for smelting. It 
is estimated the works when completed will cost $500,000. 

Pierce County, of which Tacoma is the county seat, has an 
area of 1,800 square miles, the greater portion of which is moun- 
tainous and heavily timbered. Lumbering, coal-mining and hop- 
raising are the chief industries. Next in importance comes dairy- 
ing and stock-raising. Much of the prairie land is gravelly with 
light soil with some scattering swamp and swale lauds. Where the 
heavy timber has been cut off a thrift}- growth of young firs and a 
few cedar and oak covers the land. The agricultural portions of the 
county are confined to Puyallup, Stuck and the Upper White river 
valleys. The Puyallup valley lies on either side of the Puvallup 
river, and in its agricultural portion varies in width from one quar- 
ter to two miles, and is about 20 miles long. It is a strip of very 
rich bottom land, and is chiefly devoted to hop-raising, there be- 
ing at this time between 800 and 900 acres devoted to that industry. 
The lauds originally were covered with a dense growth of timber 
and required clearing. 

The Stuck valley lies between the Puyallup and White, and is 
a narrow strip of laud less than two miles wide by seven miles 
long. The soil is very rich, being an alluvial deposit, and is cov- 
ered with a dense growth of small timber. It requires clearing 
which takes about two years. 

The Upper White river valley is a small valley though of some- 
what greater extent than either the Puyallup or Stuck. Its soil is 
rich though not so rich as either of the other two. It is mostly 
covered with a growth of vine, maple and alder, easily cleared. 

The great wealth of the county lies in its coal mines and forests of 
timber. See "Coal," "Lumber" and "Hops" under Olympia. 

Puget Sound — Leaving Tacoma for the northern Puget 
Sound country we take the steamers of the O. R. & N. and are 
soon afloat in a superb palace on the largest and most magnificent 
body of water on the American continent. The water of the 



242 SEATTLE— OUEEN BEE. 



sound is very clear and pure enabling one to see objects in it to a 
great depth. The navies of the world could float upon its bosom 
and hide from view among its numberless islands, bays and inlets. 
These islands and the whole country surrounding the sound and 
its bays and inlets are always in holiday costume; being clad in 
an everlasting dress-coat of emerald and gold, cut, fashioned and 
be-spangled in the most gorgeous maimer by the great architect. 

The waters of the sound are not only beautiful and capable of 
transporting the commerce of the world, but they contain a wealth 
of life-sustaining food beyond computation. The vast country 
bordering the sound and drained by the numerous streams that 
find their way into it far exceeds in natural wealth any like area 
on the American continent, or the famed regions of the old world. 
In forests of timber, in mines of coal and iron, in its fishing and 
hop industry, and its water-ways — the Puget Sound country to-day 
stands without a peer in any land. And we believe had the "Pil- 
grim Fathers" set foot upon the shores of the "sound" before 
they landed at " Plymouth Rock" the smoke from the Indian 
"teepe" and the "wilds of America" would noio be not far from 
that old "blarney stone." 

By leaving Tacoma at 8:45 o'clock a. m., Seattle is reached in a 
little over two hours; but, should the sky be clear, the moon at 
the full and at half mast, do not fail to take the boat that leaves 
Tacoma in the evening at 0:4"> o'clock, as a view of Puget sound 
by moonlight is one of surpassing beauty. The moon plays such 
wild, weird and fantastic tricks with the surroundings that one 
must needs feel the pulse to ascertain whether life still exists or by 
some sudden transition the Utopian dreamland of childhood had 
become a solid reality. 

In steaming up the sound to within one mile of the city of 
Seattle the traveler will see no indications of a city until the boat 
suddenly rounds a headland, when there! just across the beautiful 
El'iott bay, resting on the slopes of a monster semi-circle, seven 
miles in diameter, the outer rim of which rises nearly 500 feet 
above the waters of the bay, is the city of 

Seattle — [Pop., 23,000; from Tacoma, 41 miles; Port Townsend, 40 miles] . 
Settled in 1852. Is the seat of King's county and the Queen-bee of 
the Puget Sound country. Its west and portions of its north and 
south front is on what is known as Elliot bay, of the middle sound. 
Its northeast, east and southeast is on Black river, Lakes Union 
and Washington and the Duwamish river, all portions sloping 
towards the water from an elevation of about 500 feet. The cut- 
ting of the inter-lake canal has made it possible to row around the 
entire city in a small boat. Lake Washington is about 20 miles 
long, from two to four miles wide, and 19 feet above the level of 
the sound, and Lake Union about the size and 12 feet above the 
sound — both fresh water lakes. Seattle harbor or Elliott bay 
affords seven miles of water front, about one-fourth of which is now 
occupied by docks, railroad depots, ship-yards, ferry privileges, 
factories, canneries, dry-dock, great warehouses, and scores of 
small manufactories. 

Just in the rear of these comes large and most expensive busi- 
ness blocks of brick, stone and iron, and stores, hotels and 
shops of all kinds; and beyond still, rise terraced streets, 
one above the other to the summit, 011 which stand churches, 



SEATTLE AND VICINITY. 243 

schools, colleges, and hundreds and hundreds of elegant 
private residences, overlooking the business portion, the bay, 
and sound, where float at times the flags of all nations, and be- 
yond, to' the snow-capped peaks of the Olympia range of moun- 
tains. Then again, the eastern slopes afford views equally grand. 
The beautiful Lake Washington appears in the foreground of the 
picture, just above an immense forest extending away 70 miles to 
the Cascade range of mountains, with the snow-clad peak of Mt. 
Rainier as a central figure, 14,444 feet above the level of the sea. 

The railroad tracks entering the city are laid along the entire 
water front with switch-tracks to warehouses, manufactories, etc. 

For commercial purposes, Seattle, topographically, is beyond 
comparison on the north Pacific coast, as evidenced in its wonder- 
ful increase in population and in its manufacturing and shipping 
business. In 1880 its population was a little over 3,000, in 1886 
about 10,401), in 1887 16,200, and at the close of 1888 fully 23,000; 
increasing in its industries proportionately, and it would seem that 
this phenomenal growth must continue for many years, in fact as 
long as timber, coal, iron, agriculture, manufacturing, trade and 
commerce remain an essential element of prosperity to a city. 



Navy Yard — The construction of the inter-lake canal was by 
Seattle lumbermen, for the purpose of floating logs to the mills on 
the sound. It is one-fourth of a mile long, 30 feet deep, from 
15 to 50 feet in width, and cost about $65,000. The project of a 
ship canal to unite the lakes with the sound has been urged upon 
Congress by the officials of the territory in language as follows: 

"We believe that the lakes situated near the city of Seattle, 
known as Lakes Union and Washington, are peculiarly fitted for 
the purpose, our belief being based upon the facts that thev are 
fresh water, with a depth of many fathoms; that they can be made 
accessible from Admiralty inlet by a canal about one mile in length 
the construction of which promises no engineering difficulties; that 
these lakes are never frozen; that they are bordered by extensive 
forests of fir, which is the best timber in the country for ship- 
building purposes; that good coal is extensively mined on the 
banks of Lake Washington, and that iron ore is found in 
abundance in the neighborhood. 

"The climate is mild and salubrious, and remarkably even 
throughout the year, and especially mild in winter when we con- 
sider the latitude. 

" The country is rapidly increasing in population, ami it appears 
to us tkat if our government is ever to construct a naval station in 
our waters, it will be to its great advantage and in the interest 
of economy to select the site and acquire the necessarv lands at an 
early date." 

The following notice taken of the subject in the governor's re- 
port is further evidence to the same purport: "A ship canal of less 
than two miles over an easy route would connect Lakes Union and 
Washington with the tide waters of Puget sound in Seattle harbor. 
The project of connecting these lakes by canal with the sound, for 
naval or other purposes, has been under discussion by the United 
States government at times since 1870, and it now seems likely 
that early action will be taken in the premises, as renewed interest 
in the matter has recently been manifested by public men and 
engineer officers of the troverument. " 



244 SEATTLE — INDUSTRIES. 

RESORTS — Seattle is connected with Lake Washington by a fine 
cable road which cost $290,000, the cars of which glide over the 
summit and down to the lake over a route affording a vast range 
of vision and a beauty of scenery indescribably grand and beauti- 
ful. Along the lake and overlooking heights, since the cable-road 
was completed, are built and building great numbers of elegant 
private residences, resorts, boat-houses, etc. The natural beauty 
of the lake and surroundings, its ease of access, to say nothing of 
its unequalled attractions of hunting, fishing, boating, etc., will 
soon make this the most frequented resort on the Pacific coast. 

Natural Industries — The coal, iron, lumber, fishing and hop 
industry centering at Seattle is immense, and is increasing at a 
rapid rate. 

The City — Is amply supplied with water works, good fire de- 
partment, electric light, telephone, street horse cars and cable roads. 

Dry Dock — The Seattle Dry Dock and Ship Building Co. have 
a site on the city front 500x750 feet, with 42 feet of water at high- 
tide, upon which they are. building a sectional floating dock, 60 
feet wide and 200 feet long, or large enough to take in auv of the 
sound steamers or sailing coasters. The plant will cost $75,000. 
Near by will be a ship building yard and extensive machine shops 
which will cost as much more. When these establishments are 
completed they will be far ahead of anything of the kind on the 
coast, excepting only San Francisco. 

Car Shops — The extensive machine shops of the Columbia & 
Puget Sound and Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railroad Ccs. 
are located here and employ a large number of men. 

EREOSOTING Works — Are being erected for the treating of 
timber used for the construction of city wharves, piling, etc. , as 
the ravages of the teredo make protection absolutely necessary. 

Lumber Cut-— The Seattle mills and those in the vicinity are 
the largest on the sound, cutting from 350,000 to 517,000 feet of 
lumber a day. The latter feat was accomplished by the Port 
Blakely mill, situated just across the sound, ten miles west of 
Seattle and in plain view from the city. This mill is the largest 
on Puget sound. It is not an uncommon thing to see sawed sticks 
of timber at some of these mills 200 feet long and from two to four 
feet square. These timbers are sawed expressly for shipment to 
foreign ports, to save sawed lumber duties, and are sawed into 
lumber to any required size after arriving at their destination. 
Connected with the lumber industry, Seattle has ten large lumber 
manufacturing companies, two planing-mills, three sash, door and 
blind factories, four ship builders, 11 furniture factories, three box 
manufacturers, four cabinet makers and two carriage and wagon 
works. There are three iron foundries, three boiler makers, two 
flour and feed mills, four breweries, three brick, tile and terra-cotta 
works, three soap factories, one tannery, two bottlers, one pork 
and beef packing establishment, two large canneries, packing 
15,(100 cases a year, three cigar factories, four nurseries, one theater 
and two opera houses. 

Seattle has a Board of Trade, five railroad, two transportation 
and five large coal companies, that have their principal offices in 
the city. Six banks and several private bankers are here ready to 
take charge of your cash; 15 hotels are seeking your patronage; 



FISHERIES — STEEL WORKS. 245 

20 churches are open for your attendance ; several good schools 
will educate your children; a U. S. land office will sell you land; a 
signal office will report on the weather; 3(5 real estate agents have 
"just what you need;" and three daily and five weekly newspapers 
will keep you posted on the news from all parts of the world — the 
Post-Intelligencer, Ti)nes and Press, are each daily and weekly; 
the Star and Die Tribune (German) are weeklies. The Occidental 
Arlington, New England and the Commercial are the principal 
hotels; charges grade down from $3 to $1.50 per day. 

The University of Washington and the Academy of the Holy 
Name are at Seattle. Here at Seattle is the extreme northwestern 
terminus of the railroad system of the United States. 

Parks — Seattle has a generous supply of parks — 12 in number 
— ranging in size from three to 280 acres each. 

Fisheries — Besides the large fisheries for canning purposes, 
which are very large, there are hundreds of men engaged catching 
salmon, halibut, herring, cod, smelt and other fish for home market; 
also oysters, but no person brags much of the sound oysters, although 
we like them very much when rightly served. Thousands of bar- 
rels of salmon are put up each year for shipment east and to foreign 
ports. Since the fishery troubles on the northeast coast with Can- 
ada a number of old Gloucester fishermen have transferred their 
operations to Puget sound, and several have made Seattle their 
headquarters, bringing nearly 100 of their old hands with them. 
They. expect to be able to fish, cut bait, pack and sell without fear 
or favor from the Canadian government. 

WEST SEATTLE — A new suburb, is situated just across the bay, 
west, immediately fronting the city of Seattle, on the Duwamish 
promontory, a most sightly location, commanding a view up and 
down the sound for 20 miles, and to the Cascade range on the east 
and the Olympia mountains on the west. Extensive improvements 
are being made and it is said it will be the shipping point for the 
great coal mines of Carbonado — owned by the Southern Pacific 
Railroad Co. — who will extend a rail-track to this place, bv the 
time the wharves and docks now building are in a condition to 
afford facilities for shipping coal. 

The town company have cleared off a large tract of the table 
land, laid out streets, avenues and parks, constructed a system of 
water works, built a fine roadway from the wharves to the town- 
site above, and with their cable road project in operation and their 
steam ferry now running regularly, West Seattle promises to be to 
the city of Seattle what Brooklyn is to the city of New York. 

STEEL Works — Of all the industries located or proposed to be 
located at Seattle there are none more important than the great 
steel works now building four miles from the post-office on the 
shores of Lake Washington. The site for these works, comprising 
3,000 acres, was selected by Mr. Peter Kirk, of the Moss Bay Iron 
& Steel Works, Cumberland, England, and named "Kirkland." 
The site selected is most admirably adapted to the purposes in 
view. It is the nearest navigable point for the Snoqualmie ore- 
beds, and on the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railway. 

It is said the works will be the most extensive in America, and 
with one exception the largest in the world. They will embrace 
all the various branches of steel manufacturing and will employ 
about 5,000 men. The company have leased the Denny iron 



246 DETOUR — BELLINGHAM BAY. 



mines, situated in the Snoqualmile pass, which are said to show 
enough micaceous hematite iron-ore in sight to last a century. 

When these great works are completed and in operation they 
will alone give employment and support to 20,000 people, around 
which will cluster many other industries, and we may look to see 
a population within ten miles of Seattle within the next decade of 
150,000. 

Smelting and Refining Works — Is another enterprise in 
the hands of a close corporation of California capitalists who pro- 
pose building at once a plant to cost about $500,000, for smelting 
and refining gold and silver-ores from the mines on the line of the 
Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railway, the Salmon river and 
from the Cceur D'Alene mines of Idaho. 



JSJiggrSee under "Olympia" for articles on Washington Territory, 
climate, lumbering, agriculture, hops, fruit, etc. 

Connections — Steamers run from or touch at Seattle for all ports on 
Puget sound and the navigable rivers entering into it. The principal lines are: 
Tacoma and Olympia daily; Port Townsend and Victoria daily; Oak Harbor 
and Whatcom daily; Skagit river daily; Port Madison daily; Port Blakely 
daily; Vashon Island and Shelton three times a week; Port Gamble, Seabeck 
and Union City three times a week: Mitchel's Point and Port Orchard three 
times a week; Snohomish City and intermediate points daily; Colby creek route 
to Colby three times a week". Alaska Route — Steamers leave Seattle on ad- 
vertised days twice a month for Fort Wrangle, Sitka, Juneau and all Alaska 
ports. For San Francisco steamers every week. The Rail Routes are via 
Northern Pacific; Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern, and the Columbia & Puget 
Sound, double daily. By Stage — Eastward daily, Houghton, seven miles; 
thence north to Juanita, four miles. 



Detour — from Seattle to Whatcom — This is a lovely trip, 
particularly if it should be a moonlight night, as the O. R. & N. 
steamers — and there are no others — all leave at 9 p. m. The 
route for most of the way is through narrow inlets or passages be- 
tween numberless islands, some occupied by settlers, but the many 
are as wild as created. The accommodations for the comfort and 
convenience of passengers are all that could be desired; the stops 
during the night will number just half a dozen before daylight; 
they are Clinton, Coupeville, Oak Harbor, Utsalady, La Conner 
and Fidalgo. While taking breakfast we land at Anacortes, a 
small logging camp. Samish, on Bellingham bay, conies next, 
another small place, the station for Edison, and Rlanchard's big 
logging camp. 

Deception Pass, a very narrow strait between high rocky 
cliffs, dangerous at all times, but doubly so when there is a high 
wind and changing tide (at low tide few boats can pass); we passed 
in the night or gray of morning. It can be seen best on the re- 
turn trip. 

ChuckanuT. in the bay of that name, about six miles before 
Whatcom, is a stone quarry camp, where a mountain of sand- 
stone crops out just at the water's edge. The stone is a pale blue, 
soft and easy to work, but hardens with exposure. The stone is 
used in building the opera house in Tacoma, and is also used in 
Portland, Seattle and other cities. 

Bcllillgllillll — On Bellingham bay, once a "booming" coal- 
mining camp, is now in a high state of decay. This "bay" was for 
many years the great supply point for coal on the Pacific coast, but a 
"labor strike" completely killed that industry. So much for a 

"strike." 



A hen which cackles over night lays no eggs in the morning. 



WHATCOM — SEHOME. 247 

What com — [Pop., 700].— Settled in 1852. Is the seat of What- 
com county, situated on a beautiful table-land at the head of Bell- 
ingham bay, commanding a wide range of vision to the west, north 
and east. It has a fine water power running through the town, on 
which are located a large saw-mill and several small factories. 
The town is reached by a long pier beside which vessels of large 
tonnage can ride in safety and is one of the best on the sound. 

Lake Whatcom, the outlet of which runs through the town, 
is reached three miles east, is a fine body of water 316 feet above 
the town, is about 15 miles long and from one to three miles in width. 

Mt. Baker, the snow-capped peak of which is in plain view 
from Whatcom, is situated due east 85 miles, elevation 10,800 feet. 
Whatcom contains one bank, four churches, a good graded school, 
a saw-mill, a furniture factory and two weekly newspapers — the 
Reveille and Democrat. The Whatcom is the principal hotel. 
There are a number of general stores and shops of various kinds. 

Sehome — sometimes called New Whatcom, is situated just on 
the south side of Whatcom creek, and contains a population of 
about 160. It has three general stores and several hotels. 

The table on which are situated the twin Whatcoms was once 
covered with a forest of heavy timber; some of the smaller trees still 
remain and many stumps of the larger. 

The Belliugham Bay & British Columbia Railroad Co. have a 
road graded from Sehome for 25 miles and the track laid for about 
half the distance. It is generally supposed to be owned bv the 
Canada Pacific Co., and will be extended to a connection with 
their main line at an early day. The round-houses and machine 
shops are being located at Sehome, where many new buildings are 
being erected by the town, company and others. 

Ten thousand — Represented the population that Whatcom 
contained in 1858, more than the total population of all other 
places in the Puget sound country combined. On our late visit to 
Whatcom we were shown by the editor of the Reveille a copy 
of The Northern Light, Vol. 1, No. 3, dated July 17, 1858; 
"price, 25 cents per copy." It was filled with advertisements of 
all kinds similar to those found in many papers of the present 
time in western cities of 20,000 population. Whatcom was at that 
time the head of navigation or the outfitting point for tens of 
thousands of people en route for the Caribou gold mines. When 
the travel ceased, most of the citizens gathered up their tents and 
abandoned the town, but at this time Whatcom is again on the 
high road to prosperity; the country tributary is rich in timber, 
coal, iron and stone, and where cleared, in agricultural land, pro- 
ducing wheat, oats, corn, potatoes and varieties of vegetables, but 
none for shipment, as the settlers are too much occupied in clear- 
ing off their lands and speculating on the future prosperity of 
their locality to raise more than enough to supply home 
consumption. 

Trusts — In coal and lumber, it is said, has paralysed both kinds 
of business in Bellingham bay country; very little coal is mined, 
and no shipments of lumber are made. The "trust" pays a stipu- 
lated sum per annum to the lumber companies, who formerly 
shipped lumber, to have them close their mills. 

So between "labor strikes" and "trusts" the two great indus- 
tries of this region are paralyzed — dead. 



248 FORT AND PORT TOWNSEND. 



Connections — Mail hack: East, once a week to Geneva, five miles; 
Woodland, three miles; thence southeast to Park, seven miles; thence north- 
east to Acme, eight miles. 

Also from Whatcom mail hack northeast, three times a week, to Yager, 
ten miles; Roder, six miles; thence northwest to Eynden, eight miles. 

Also from Whatcom mail hack northwest, three times a week, to Lim- 
ami, seven miles; thence north to Ferndale, five miles; Custer, eight miles; 
Briach, five miles; Hillsdale, four miles, and Blain, five miles. 

Steamers leave Sehome on Thursdays, calling at Beach and Beach Bay; 
fare, $i. 

Returning to Seattle, we resume our tour, this time to Her 
Majesty's dominions. 

Leaving Seattle at 11 a. m., on one of the elegant steamers of 
the 0. R. & N., our direction is north up Admiralty inlet. 

If the sky be clear, the scenic views will be very grand — the 
tall peaks in the Cascades to the east, and the Olympia range in 
the west will appear very plain. A run of two and a half hours 
brings us within view ahead of Port Townsend, with uncle Sam's 
flag floating to the breeze at the fort, two miles to the left of the 
town. Another hour and we steam into the harbor of 

Port ToWIlSeild — [Pop., 3,000; from Seattle, 40 miles; Victoria, B. C, 
36 miles]. — Is in Jefferson county, on Port Townsend bay and 
Admiralty inlet, facing eastward. The business portion of the 
town is situated on a strip of land about a fourth of a mile wide, 
between the water of the bay, and a steep bluff which rises 100 feet 
in height. The residence portion of the city is reached by a dug- 
way along the side of the bluffs to a beautiful table land above, 
where are fine streets and some elegant private residences, in the 
back-ground a forest of timber. Port Townsend is a port-of-entry, 
where all vessels navigating the American waters must stop and 
secure a clearance from the revenue office, going and coming. 
The city has one bank, one steam saw-mill, one planing-mill, one 
iron works, two good hotels — the Central and Cosmopolitan; two 
weekly papers — the Argus and Call; four churches and a good 
district school. 

The chief industries are lumber and fish. 

The town contains a number of very good brick and stone 
business blocks, and stores and shops of all kinds. 

Fort Townsend — three miles south, is situated in a very com- 
manding position, 100 feet above the bay, on a table land over- 
looking the water and country to the eastward for many, many 
miles. The fort is in command of Capt. A. H. Bainbridge of the 
14th Infantry, and garrisoned by Company A. 

IrondaIvE — Is nearly two miles below the fort, where are located 
large smelting works for treating the bog-iron ore found in the 
vicinity. 

Port Hadeock — just below Irondale, is the site of a mam- 
moth saw-mill, also at Port Ludlow and Port Discovery. 

Connections — Mail hack: Southwest, three times a week, to Port Dis- 
covery, ten miles; thence south, once a week, to Leland, nine miles; Quil- 
cene, seven miles. 

Leaving Port Townsend our boat soon rounds Point Wilson 
promontory and lighthouse, and we are fairly afloat on the broadest 
portion of Puget sound — 30 miles in width. Crossing the 
boundary line, midway the distance across the sound, we are in 
British Columbia, with its beautiful capital in sight in the distance. 

The Crofutt's Books for twenty years have furnished traveling correspon- 
dents with about all the data they have used in writing articles for publication 
in the eastern and foreign newspa'pers. 



VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA. 24! I 

Victoria — [Pop., 15,000]. — The capital of British Columbia; sit- 
uated on the Straits of Fuca, at the southern extremity of Vancouver 
island. It is the terminal point for the O. R. & N. sound steam- 
ers and Pacific Coast Steamship Co. 's San Francisco steamship 
lines. It is the headquarters of the Canadian Pacific Navigation 
Co. and the Esquimalt & Nanaimo railway. 

A friend by our side says: "Find a prettier little city than Vic- 
toria, if you can. In a situation to command a practically unlim- 
ited range of vision toward three points of the compass, in a vigor- 
ous, healthful atmosphere, with well-laid streets, substantial pub- 
lic buildings and private residences. Fine boulevards diverge in 
all directions from the city, while the suburbs abound in beautiful 
grounds and charming prospects." 

Esquimalt — three miles from Victoria, is the beautiful harbor 
on which is located the royal naval dockyard, where stores and 
munitions of war are dealt out to Her Majesty's vessels on the 
Pacific. It is well worth a visit. 

Then there is the great flash light at Race Rocks, the finest of 
its kind in the world; the Fisgard light at the mouth of the bay; 
the Dungeness light across on the Washington side; the Smith's 
Island light, 30 miles distant, and an array of lesser luminaries. 

Victoria contains a great number of fine brick and stone busi- 
ness blocks, and stores and shops of all kinds. 

It has a goodly number of churches and schools, banks, mills 
and miscellaneous manufactories. The private residences are neat 
and substantial, some very elegant and all surrounded by gardens, 
orchards and beautiful lawns. 

There are a great number of hotels, high and low-priced, from 
the "Poodle Dog house" to the Driard; rated by charges the prin- 
cipal hotels are Driard, Clarendon and Occidental; charges, from 
$0 to $3 per day. There are a number of small hotels where the 
appointments and service are equal to those which charge double 
the price. One is the new French hotel — European plan — the 
restaurant is equal to any in the city. 

The number of excursions which may be made by boat from 
Victoria is almost without limit. Immediately across the Gulf of 
Georgia from Nanaimo is Burrard's inlet. Trips may also be 
taken to Port Moody, New Westminster and Vale, the Charlotte 
islands, and many other points. 

With Victoria we end our main tour, and return to Seattle. 



TO ©L.YMPIA— THE CAPITAL. 



Side Tour ]*Jo. 1§— From Seattle to Olympia— Tum- 

WATER AND TENINO TO PORTLAND. 

The time of departure, usually, of the regular O. R. & N. 
steamers of this line, is 12:30 p. m. Here our party of six had the 
only disagreeable experience on the whole tour. Leaving Seattle 
at 4 p. m., the cloudy weather allowed us little opportunity to view 
the beautiful scenery known to be on the route. 



The route from Seattle is via Tacoma and Steilacoom, mid 
islands, inlets, promontories, bays, coves, and forests of timber on 
all sides. 



2">0 OI.YMPIA — THK FRUITFUL. 



Landing at the capital city sometime in the night, and as the 
boat started on there turn trip at 6 a. m., an opportunity was afforded 
our party for an appetizing walk in the gray of the morning, 
before breakfast. 

Olympia — [Pop., 2,6ooj. — Settled in 1852. Is the capital of 
Washington Territory, and the seat of Thurston county. It is at 
the extreme head of navigation on Puget sound — situated on a 
tongue of land extending out into the bay, from which the slope is 
gradual back for nearly two miles to a wooded ridge. This city — 
unlike all others on Puget sound — is embowered in foliage. Orch- 
ards of fruit, beautiful gardens of vines, berries, ornamental shrubs 
and flowers surround the homes of nearly all the citizens, 
reminding one of Boise, the beautiful. The early settlers were 
from the New England states, and immediately after their arrival 
in this fair land commenced to plant orchards and build homes in 
that spirit of contentment which says: "We have found our ideal 
home on earth, in all that makes life worth living for, and here we 
shall remain during the running out of the sands of time!" In 
progressive enterprise — viewed from a "boomer's" standpoint — 
Olvmpia is an "old fogy" town; but for all the comforts and lux- 
uries of home life, with educated and refined society, good churches 
and schools, a healthy climate, abundance of fruit, fish and game, 
convenient to all the great marts of trade on the coast, a crowned 
queen at the head of the great Mediterranean of America, she 
stands in her regal robes of green and gold, the "monarch of all 
she surveys!" 

The greater portion of the surrounding country tributary to 
Olvmpia is heavily wooded, with firs and pines on the uplands, 
and cedar, oak, hemlock and maple on the lowlands. The land 
when cleared is of the richest and most productive on the sound. 
Many varieties of berries "run wild" in the vicinity of Olvmpia, 
particularly blackberries, huckleberries, and strawberries grow in 
great profusion; of the latter, many attain a circumference of eight 
inches. 

We were told some have been found ten inches, but we did not 
see them. 

Olvmpia was the first place on the ' 'sound' ' selected for the 
terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, but the officers of the 
company after securing the necessary terminal facilities from Olyin- 
pia concluded to go into town building for themselves; so after 
securing all the land required at Tacoma, abandoned Olvmpia and 
proceeded to "boom" the new Tacoma to its present prominent 
position among the thrifty cities on Puget sound. The building of 
projected railroads from the Columbia river and Gray's harbor, and 
the extending of the Olympia & Chehalis Valley railroad to the 
coal mines at Bucoda, will elevate Olympia to her rightful 
position as an important shipping point for lumber, coal and other 
commodities on the "sound," and tend to create and stimulate 
established industries to a wonderful extent, besides placing the 
city on the great highway of travel between the most productive 
lower and upper countries. 

Apples, pears, plums, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, black- 
berries and currants are raised in almost every enclosure about the 
homes of the Olympians, and shade trees of maple, cypress, pine, 
fir, mountain ash and spruce adorn their grounds. Their business 
blocks are large and substantial, many of brick and stone; their 



WASHINGTON "ROUND UP." 1')\ 



private residences are elegant, cozy and tantalizingly inviting, par- 
ticularly to one almost tired of life and the hum-drum of business. 

The long wharf, extending out into the bay from the "tongue" • 
of land on which Olympia is situated, affords a landing place, at 
low tide, for vessels drawing about 18 feet of water. 

The city contains, among its prominent buildings, the capitol, 
county court and city hall, Masonic, Odd Fellows and Good 
Templars' halls, and the Providence academy, six churches and am- 
ple school accommodations, one bank, one k-rge saw-mill, one 
shingle mill, one wood pipe and one patent water-pipe manufac- 
tory and stores and shops of all kinds. 

The city has a Board of Trade and contains the offices of the 
governor, secretary and surveyor-general of the territory, and a 
U. S. signal office. Of hotels, there are just half a dozen, chief of 
which are the Carlton, Columbia and Young's; charges from $3 
down to $1.50 per day; free "carry-all" to boats and trains. Three 
weekly newspapers are published at Olympia — the Courier, 
Standard and New Transcript. 

Connections — By rail: Olympia & Chehalis Valley railroad, and by steam- 
boats to all points oh Puget Sound. 

By mail stage — Daily for Tumwater, three miles; thence southwest to 
Little Rock, 12 miles; Oakville, 15 miles; thence northwest to Cedarville, 
four miles; Sharon, five miles; Ki.ma, eight miles; thence west to Satsop, four 
miles; Montesano, six miles; Wynooche, one mile; Melboen, two miles; 
Cosmopolis, ten miles; Aberdeen, three miles, and Hoquiam, four miles; also, 
from Olympia, mail hack westward twice a week to Kamilche. 18 miles; 
Summit, nine miles; and Elma, eight miles; also from Olympia by boat to 
Arcadia, 14 miles; thence west by stage three times a week, to Shelton, nine 
miles; thence north to Oakland, five miles; Skokomish, 12 miles; thence, 
once a week to Dewato, eight miles; Seabeck, 20 miles; thence three times a 
week to Port Gamble. 21 miles. 

From Skokomish — Mail hack east, three times a week to Clifton, 14 miles; 
thence twice a week to Sidney', 13 miles. 



Washington Territory— Before leaving the capital it may 
be well to take a hasty glance at its chief resourses. 

8'sisjet Sound — Is a great deep inland sea, extending nearly 
200 square miles from the ocean, having a surface of about 2,000 
square miles, and a shore line of about 1,594 miles, indented with 
numerous bays, harbors and inlets, each with its peculiar name, 
and contains numerous islands inhabited hy farmers, lumbermen, 
herdsmen and those engaged in quarrying lime and building 
stone. Admiral Charles Wilkes has described this pride of Wash- 
ington Territory as follows: 

Nothing can surpass the beauty of these waters and their safety. Not a shoal 
exists within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty bay, or Hood's canal that 
can in any way interrupt their navigation by a seventy-four-gun ship. I ven- 
ture nothing in saying that there is no country in the world that possesses 
waters equal to these; they cover an area of about 2,000 square miles; the shores 
of all its inlets and bays are remarkably bold, so much so that a ship's side 
w.nild strike the shore before her keel would touch the ground. 

The country by which these waters are surrounded is remarkably salubrious 
and affords every advantage for the accommodation of a vast commercial and 
military marine, with convenience for docks, and a great many sites for towns 
and cities, at all times well supplied with water, and capable of being well pro- 
vided with everything by the surrounding country, which is well adapted for 
agriculture. 

The Straits of Juan de Fuca are 95 miles in length and have an average width 
of 1 1 miles. At the entrance (eight miles in width) no danger exists, and it may be 
safely navigated throughout. 

No part of the world affords finer inlands, sounds, or a greater number ot 
harbors than are found within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, capable of receiving 
the largest class of vessels and without a danger in them that is not visible. 
From the rise and fall of the tide (18 feet), every facility is afforded for the 
erection of works for a great maritime nation. 

The country also affords as many sites for water-power as any other. 



TERRITORIAL RESOURCES. 



Assessed value of Washington — The value of all taxable 
property in the territory for 1888 was $84,621,182. The values of 
six of the largest counties were as follows: King, $15,016,795; 
Pierce, $14,021,842; Spokane, $7,212,509; Whitman, $7,084,74"); 
Walla Walla, $6,754,94(1; and Columbia, $2,825,000. 



U. S. Land — For the year ending June 30th, 1888, original 
homestead entries, 312,740 acres; timber culture entries, 89,264 
acres; cash entries, 133,803 acres; pre-emption filings, 359,643 
acres; coal land entries, 18,720 acres; desert land entries, 24,000 
acres; timber land entries, 85,600 acres. In the same time the 
Northern Pacific railroad company sold 268,700 acres, for which 
they received the sum of $1,292,473.30. 



Railroad Mileage — The total railroad mileage in Washing- 
ton Territory up to June 30, 1888, was 1,197 miles, of which the 
Northern Pacific operated 762 miles, and the Oregon Railway cc 
Navigation Co. 282 miles. 

Coal — There are 11 great coal mines in Washington being 
worked. The production of these mines for the year ending June 
30, 1888, was as follows: 

FIRST INSPECTION DISTRICT. SECOND INSPECTION DISTRICT. 

Tons. Tons. 

Bucoda 49,i6o Franklin 182,921 

South Prairie 36,149 Black Diamond 186,522 

Wilkinson 2,300 j New Castle 158,134 

Carbon Hill 20.5,702 : Cedar Mountain 52.813 

Tacoma, at Wilkins 14,371 : Roslyn 134,201 

' Gilraan 13, 528 



Total tons 305,682 

Total tons 828,119 

Grand total, 1,133,801— an increase over 1887 of 608,096 tons. 



Gold and silver— There are three prominent mining districts 
in the territory — the Ruby, Salmon river and Galena. A large 
amount of work is being done in these districts, but no reliable 
data was obtainable. 

Iron — Is found in immense quantities in King county near 
Lake Washington and in Jefferson county near Ironton. 

Limber — The forests of Washington Territory seem to"be limit- 
less, extending from the Columbia river on the south to British 
Columbia on the north, and comprise the finest body of timber in 
the world. The principal woods are pine, spruce, cedar, fir and 
hemlock, with white oak, ash and maple for second place in quan- 
tity. Large tracts of these lands, it is said, will produce 31 1,000 
feet of lumber to the acre. There are 97 saw-mills in the territory, 
which are estimated to have cut 1,043,596,000 feet of lumber during 
the last year, loading 398 vessels. The amounts shipped to foreign 
countries were as follows: Lumber, 43, 133, 732 feet; lath, 3,686,435 
number; shingles, 4,741,500 number. Of this amount the Port 
Blakely mills furnished 17 cargoes, or 10,675,814 feet. 

Banking capital — There are 26 national banks in the terri- 
tory and 11 savings and private banks, aggregating a capital of 
$1,152,834. In addition, there are 12 banks and bankers who 
refused information. 

Fish, etc. — The principal food fishes of the Puget sound are 
salmon (hook-jawed), halibut, cod (true, black and tom-cod), rock- 
fish, 28 varieties; smelt and herring. Mountain or brook trout 
abound in all the streams coining down from the mountains. 



TERRITORIAL RESOURCES. 253 

Oysters, clams and mussels are abundant in the sound waters. 
There are a number of clam canneries at different places on the 
Sound. 

Indians — The total Indian population in Washington Territory 
number 11,000 with 17 reservations. Of this number probably not 
more than three-fifths live on the reservations, while the remain- 
ing two-fifths either roam about or have homes of their own on 
homesteads or land purchased by them, or in villages near white 
settlements. They are generally peaceable, quiet, law-abiding and 
and measurably industrious. 

Agricultural Productions — East of the Cascades wheat is 
the chief production, average yield, 25 bushels to the acre; barley 
and oats hold second and third places. Fruit of many varieties 
is raised; also potatoes, sorghum, corn, hops, melons, grapes, 
tobacco and all the varieties of vegetables. Irrigation is seldom 
resorted to, but could be successful if required to raise crops. 

On the Puget sound slopes grasses, oats and root crops do ex- 
ceedingly well; four tons of hay to the acre are common. The 
country bordering the sound will produce every variety of grain, 
fruit and vegetables grown in the temperate zone, and in great 
abundance. 

Hops is one of the most profitable crops raised on Puget sound. 
They have acquired a rating equal to any raised in the world; the 
crop is often contracted for in England before it is harvested. 
Puyallup and White river valleys contain the principal hop fields. 
A low estimate of the yield of hops is 1,500 pounds to the acre, 
though exceptional cases are recorded to double that amount. 
Taking ten years together and the average price is 20 cents per 
pound; they have been as low as seven cents and as high as one 
dollar. The Puget sound hop crop for 1888 amounted to 7,350,000 
pounds valued at 20 cents per pound, $1,470,000. It is claimed the 
cost of raising hops is about eight cents per pound. Taking 1,500 
pounds as the minimum at the average price of 20 cents, §30(1 per 
acre will pay much better than book making, and we would like to 
"swap" works. 

Indians do about all the hop picking on the sound, many of 
them coming every year in the picking season all the way from 
British Columbia for that purpose, and when the season is over 
they can be seen by hundreds coming into Seattle in their peculiar 
gondola-nosed boots, and, after purchasing winter supplies, 
push off onto the sound with their load of wife, babies, dogs and 
provision for home again, as happy apparently as the same number 
of Vassar college sophomores at a pic-nic. 

Climate, in the Puget Sound country, an old settlers savs, is 
one of "etheral mildness." Snow in the low lands is almost un- 
known, and ice is made by machinery; the mercury in summer for 
16 years never went above 99° and seldom above 80°. In winter 
it seldom falls more than eight or ten degrees below freezing 
point, and has never been known to reach zero in the history 
of the country since its settlement, nearly 40 years ago. The 
number of rainy days for the same period varied from 134 to LSI a 
year, and included all days on which any rain at all fell within the 
24 hours, and every day on which even a slight shower fell. The 
greatest rainfall for the period was 67 inches; the least 38 inches; 
making a mean average of 52 inches a year. 



254 WAGES AND WIND. 



gilrThe records from which the above is a synopsis were kept at 
Olympia, the capital, and can be found in full in the governor's 
report to the Secretary of the Interior. 

The following table compiled for the governor's last annual 
report, gives the schedule of 

WAGES Paid for various kinds of labor in the territory. 

PER DAY. PER DAY. 

Carpenters >_>.so to 4.00 Boat builders 3.00 

Machinists 3.00 to 4.00 Plumbers 3.00 

Sign painters 3.00103.50 Tailors 3.50 

Boilermakers 3.00] per month. 

Tinsmiths 3-°o Mill hands 530.00 to 125.00 



Longshoremen 4.00 

Stone and marble cutters 3.50 

Plasterers 4.00 

Gun and locksmiths 3.00 

Roustabouts 1.75 to 2.00 

Coal miners (shift work).. 2.50 

Coal miners (by the yard) 3.00 to 4.00 

Mechanical engineers 3.00 to 4.00 

Bricklayers 4.50 to 6.00 



Bakers 60.00 

Farm laborers 25.00 to 30.00 

PER DAY. 

Molders 3.25 

Pattern makers 3.50 

Loggers PER MONTH. 

Teamsters $65.00 to 125.00 

Choppers 60.00 to 80.00 



House painters 3.00 , Skidders, hook tenders„5o.oo to 75.00 

Shoemakers 2.50 Swampers 45.00 

Blacksmiths 3.00103.50 Sawyers 50.00 to 65.00 

Day laborers 2.25 Common laborers 35.00 to 40.00 

Gasfitters 3- 00 ' Boys 25.00 

Upholsterers 2.00 ; Cooks 35.00 to 

Chinook Wind — From an article on tbis subject by the Hon. 
Eugene Seniple, Governor of Washington Territory, we make a 
few extracts: 

"Winds coming from different quarters and possessing 
various characteristics, were named by the Indians after the coun- 
tries whence they appeared to come. 

"The east wind, that drying or chilling wind, according to the 
season, that blows down the Columbia river with great force some- 
times, was called by them the Walla Walla wind, because it 
came to them from the direction of the Walla Walla country. In the 
winter this wind brings freezing weather, and sometimes will close 
the streams with ice. In the summer it is a parching wind, and 
its approach can be noted for long distances as it lifts the dust 
and debris high in the air. It is an odious wind, and no one 
wishes it to blow upon him. Fortunately its reign is always short. 
It rarely prevails for more than a few hours, but will sometimes 
continue for three or four days. 

"Its enemy is the Chinook wind, so-called by the Indians alluded 
to above, because it came to them from the direction of the country 
of the Chinooks. This is a balmy wind, coming from the Kuro 
vSiwo, or great Japanese current of the Pacific ocean. In the sum- 
mer it is a cool wind, and tempers the heat of summer so that 
nowhere in Washington Territory do people fall down with sun- 
strokes. In the winter it is a warm, moist wind, and is some- 
times slightly odoriferous, as if spice-laden from the tropics. It 
is so gentle upon ordinary occasions that its presence could not be 
noted by its motion, and it is almost miraculous in its effects. 
Snow and ice disappear before it with rapidity, and it seems to bs 
able to blow for long distances between walls of colder air with- 
out parting with its heat. Sometimes it constitutes an upper current, 
in which case the remakable spectacle is witnessed of snow melting 
from the mountain tops while thermometers in the valleys register 
below the freezing point. At other times it is the surface current, 
and follows the valleys and gorges as a flood might follow them. 

"This wind sometimes penetrates as far as the upper stretches of 
the Missouri. Wherever it goes the chains of winter are unloosed, 



SOUTHWARD BOUND. 255 



and the ice-bound rivers are set free. The Chinook is the natural 
enemy of the odious east wind, and while ordinarily it wields its 
influence as gently as the zephyrs that waft the thistle downs in 
autumn, still there are times when the two winds engage in giant 
conflicts and fight for supremacy, now in the upper, then in the 
lower strata, on the mountains and in the valleys, alternately 
driving each other back and forth, swaying the trees, tossing the 
leaves, and swirling the rain drops or the crystals of snow, as the 
one or the other advances. But the combat is never long, and the 
victory is always with the Chinook. The inhabitants east of the 
Cascade mountains, when winter has seized them and the east 
wind dashes snow in their faces, pray for the Chinook to come. 
They look by day for its moist front, and listen by night for the 
noise of its combat with the east wind, and when it reaches them 
they rejoice. Such is the Chinook wind, the blessed wind of 
the far northwest. ' ' 



Leaving Olympia, we take the cars of the Olympia & Chehalis 
Valley railroad (narrow gauge), at 7 o'clock in the morning. The 
depot is on the west side of the inlet, one mile distant. The main line 
of this road is 16 miles in length to Teuino; the branches for timber 
add six to the mileage. The first station is two miles distant, called 

Tumwatcr— meaning in the Chinook language, cataract — 
waterfall — is situated in a narrow valley, just at the falls of De 
Chutes river. Settled in 1845. It has a very valuable water-power, 
on which is located a flour-mill, three saw-mills and several small 
factories. The De Chutes river has a fall of 82 feet, within a few 
hundred yards, discharging about 50,000 cubic feet of water a 
minute in the driest season. The place has a population of about 
25i). most of whom are engaged in the lumbering business. There 
are several stores here and one church, and a district school. 
Tuniwater is the oldest settlement in Washington, and is really 
the head of navigation for any craft, and Olympia for those of 
heavy tonage. Until the Northern Pacific railroad was com- 
pleted to Tacoma, Tumwater was on the through line of travel 
between Portland and Puget sound. 

Following up the De Chutes river there is no station of note, 
and only a few clearings, where are located a few settlers. 
The whole country, with the exceptions above noted, is heavily 
wooded; in some places the large trees have been cut off and a 
vigorous young growth is rising from the sod. The wood is prin- 
cipally spruce, pine, fir, oak, hemlock and maple. 

Mounds — Within a short distance of the end of the road are 
the noted "Tenino Mounds." They are round buttes or mounds 
varying in height to ten feet, and in diameter to 25 feet; whether 
natural or artificial is a problem yet undecided by the scientists, 
who have had the question up for consideration at various times 
for many years. Governor Squires says of these mounds: 

"Many believe them to be artificial. That they are natural 
may be demonstrated by careful examination on the spot. If the 
distribution of the materials of which they are composed be exam- 
ined, these facts will be found: First, that in all those mounds 
near Tenino three kinds of material enter into their composition — 
the upper portion of every one of these contained a large share of 
vegetable mold, rich and dark of color; the middle portion a sandv 
loam, the base clay and gravel, or clay and boulders. 



256 UP THE COLUMBIA. 



"These three are so graduated into each other as to make it im- 
possible to believe they were ever heaped or sifted into their pres- 
ent relations to each other, but easy and natural to believe that the 
succession in which they stood was due to the same causes that 
made a like distribution in the fields around them. No artificial 
heaping could imitate this. But again, the whole cloth out of 
which these mounds were carved is yet to be seen in their 
neighborhood. 

"And again, the thickness of these uncarved portions varies in 
different places, and the height of the mounds of the place always 
corresponds with the thickness of this uncarved portion of the 
strata; higher mounds from thicker strata, smaller mounds from 
thinner strata. They are, therefore, not artificial. But may they 
not be due to eddies in currents of water? No, there is no touch 
of stratification such as water leaves. If any one will compare 
those of Teuino with those of Wasco count}-, in Oregon, on the 
north slopes of the hills, six or eight miles from The Dalles and 
plainly due to atmospheric agencies, the Tenino ones will seem 
explained." 

Arriving at Tenino we board the cars on the Northern Pacific 
and return to Portland, and take a rest before starting on the last, 
shortest and. grandest tour of all others; and if you ever visit the 
North Pacific coast, you should not fail to make it. The magnifi- 
cent scenery is worth a trip around the world to behold. 



HOMEWARD BOUND 

VIA 

STEAMER TO THE DALLES. 



Side Tour Xo. 19 — From Portland to Fort Vancouver, 
Rooster Rock, Cape Horn, Cascade Locks to The Dalles, 
by steamer. 

Leaving Portland, via the O. R. & N. steamer, at 6 o'clock in the 
morning, the route is the same as in Tour No. 17, to the mouth of 
the Willamette river, where the boat turns to the right, up the 
Columbia river. 

The country on each side is under a high state of cultivation, 
and dotted with farm houses, surrounded with orchards of fruit. A 
number of saw-mills are located along the river and several 
fisheries. 

Vancouver — [Pop., 2,500]. — Settled in 1826 by the employes of 
the Hudson Bay Fur Co., and incorported in 1862. 

By steamer it is 18 miles from Portland and seven miles by 
ferry and rail. 

The city occupies a beautiful site on the north side of the Colum- 
bia river, in Clarke county, of which it is the seat. It was here the 
first Catholic missions were established on the North Pacific coast, 
and is still the headquarters for that denomination. The Holy 
Angels' college, a fine institution of learning, is located here. 
Besides the Catholic, there are five other churches, several good 
schools, one bank, one theatre, and a large hall, a flour-mill, sev- 
eral saw-mills, a pipe company, U. S. land office, a number of 
hotels — the Exchange and Vancouver are the principal ones — and 
two weekly papers, the A'egisterand Independent. 



VANCOUVER — EASTWARD. 2o7 



Connections — Ferry and rail to Portland, six times a day; steamer twice 
a day. Also by mail hack, north, three times a week to Union Bridge:, 14 
miles; thence east to Pioneer, five miles; thence northward to I,a Centre, four 
miles; Pekin, three miles; Woodland, three miles, and Kalama, nine miles. 
Also northeast twice a week to Brush Prairie, ii miles; Hockinson, four 
miles; Battle Ground, six miles; Levvisville, four miles, and Amboy, ten 
miles. Also eastward, once a week, to Proebestel, 12 miles. 

From La Centre — Mail hack, northeast to Etna, eight miles; thence once a 
week to Hay's, four miles. 

Vancouver Barracks — At Vancouver is located the mili- 
tary headquarters of the Department of the Columbia, with 
officers' quarters, barracks and storehouses. The reservation 
occupies one section of land — 640 acres— adjoining the city on the 
east. It is a beautiful place, being considered by army officers the 
most desirable of all stations to which they could be assigned. 

The post is in command of Col. T. M. Anderson, 14th Infantry. 

It is the headquarters field, staff, band an»d companies B, C, D, 
E, F, G and H, of the 14th, and light battery E, 1st Artillery. 

From the boat the view of the post is best after steaming half 
a mile away from the landing. 

The back country is well settled and well cultivated, prunes be- 
ing an important production. Wheat, hay, oats, fruit and dairying 
are the principal industries. 

Improved land along the river is held at $50 per acre. Some 
government land, back from the river, remains to be taken. 

La Camas — [Pop., 600; from Vancouver, 14 miles]. — Here are lo- 
cated a large paper mill, saw-mill and flour-mill, using water power. 
To reach the landing the boat runs half a mile up a narrow 
inlet, and afterwards returning to the river. 



Connections — By steamer; Daily up and down the river; by mail hack, north, 
twice a week, to Fern Prairie, three miles. 



WasllOUgal — [Pop., ioo; from Portland, 36 miles]. — Is a small farm- 
ing community on the Washington side, about opposite the mouth 
of Sandy river. Two stores, saw-mill, apiary and dairymen 

comprise the place. 

Connections — By steamer; Daily up and down the river, and by mail hack, 
northeast, twice a week to Skye, nine miles. 



Up to this place the country on both sides of the river has been 
more or less level and occupied by farmers, fruit-growers, dairy- 
men and small industries. We can now bid them all "good-by" 
for the balance of the Tour. Our route now is between the great 
walls of the Cascade range of mountains, which rise in places sheer 
from the water's edge 3,000 feet. 

The railroad track follows along the bank of the river on the 
Oregon side all the way to The Dalles, the train passing in plain 
view from the boat, as it goes dodging in and out of tunnels, over 
high trestle bridges, thundering around the point of a rocky spur 
on the eyebrow of the tall cliff, then into a thicket of evergreen, 
to appear in a little park or clearing, to be repeated again and 
again. At times not a sound can be heard, everything being as 
still as death; in another moment the grand old gorge will thun- 
der with a terrific roar from the engine, to be echoed and re-echoed 
a thousand times as it passes from peak to peak and gorge to 
gorge, rattling around the gray old crags. 

When a stranger in this locality hears for the first time this 
great hubub, the conclusion is immediately reached that a terrific 
storm is impending, and its choicest park of artillery had been let 
loose as an advance courier. 



258 



WONDKRS THICK AND FAST. 



Our boat seldom touches the Oregon shore, but makes many 
stops on tlie Washington side. 

Thi; Columbia — Putting scenery and everything else aside you 
find in the Columbia a river, in breadth and impressiveuess, the 
peer of the Mississippi — a river whose channel through the Cascade 
mountains stupefies you with an in forced sense of antiquity and 
power. 15 v the slow attrition of water upon stone, it has sawed a 
mountain chain asunder, and the dissevered peaks, many of them 
eternally snow-capped, tower thousands of feet in height on either 
hand. Perhaps the best view possible of Mt. Hood is obtained 
in passing up the river and through this gigantic canon. At Van- 
couver and then again just above Hood river, the mountain seems 
to stand out as prominently as if alone, at certain seasons, pure 
white from base to summit, worshiped by its kneeling foot-hills. 




WONDERFUL CAPE HORN. 259 



Rooster Rock — Soon after leaving Washougal our boat 
steams along opposite this noted rock. It stands at the extremity 
of a heavily-wooded point, and in the crevices around its base and 
half-way up good-sized firs are growing. Yes! and one has secured 
a foot-hold near the very summit. The rock is of basaltic formation, 
with innumerable cracks and crevices from base to summit, in 
which ferns, vines and mosses thrive wonderfully. 

"Rooster Rock" is a fowl name, and many of the river "skip- 
pers" say it should be changed; others claim the name is very 
appropriate, but decline to explain further.!?) 

Near the Rooster are Lateourell falls, up a cafion. The drop is 
400 feet, and were they the only falls on the river they would attract 
many visitors, but the}' constitute a beautiful babe beside its 
elephantine brothers. 

Cape Horn comes now in view on the left. It is an object 
of much interest on the Columbia river and can be viewed best 
from the boat. It is a bold, sharp promontory of basaltic forma- 
tion, like all others on the Columbia, and rises for a first lift 285 
feet sheer from the water, where it is but 30 feet in width. On the 
west side firs, pines, maples and shrubs giow in great profusion, 
extending upward and backward to the summit of the supporting 
mountain 1,385 feet above the river. Cape Horn derives its name 
from the danger in passing it. It is said the Wind vSpirit lies in 
wait for canoes and other small craft, keeping them weather-bound 
for days together. The narrow channel of the river, the over- 
hanging cliffs which confine the wind as in a funnel, and the 
changes in temperature to which even in summer this locality is 
subject, make this a stormy passage at certain seasons of the year. 

The whole "cape" is creviced in a most remarkable manner, 
much like a ' 'crazy quilt, ' ' and excepting in the most exposed places, 
almost every crack and crevice support the roots of mosses, ferns, 
vines and countless varieties of flowers. From hundreds of these 
fissures, at certain seasons, gush sparkling streams of water, some 
are mere threads, others equal to an ordinary garden hose in dis- 
charge, falling and tumbling frem summit to base, presenting a 
mountain of brilliant cascades. 

Cape Horn is a marvelous curiosity. Should you conclude to 
make this tour select the steamer MulTonomah and interview Capt. 
Pillsbury; speak to him kindly and he will point out to you the 
principal objects of interest on the river, many of which we have 
not the space to even name. We are under many obligations to 
him for kind courtesies on our late tour, and hereby nominate him 
for commodore of the O. R. & N. Co's. fleet. 

The landing for Cape Horn is just above the cliffs and is a good 
place to stop over for a study. 

The scenery from this point is beyond mortal pen to describe. It 
is worth circumnavigating the world to view. [See large viezv No. j. ) 

'Mid all the most magnificent scenic views in the world, particu- 
larly in this western country, "business" crops out on all sides, 
as instanced in the building of a flume four miles in length on the 
Oregon side of the river opposite, for the purpose of "shooting" 
cordwood from the summit of the mountain to the bank of the 
river. A good field-glass brings the whole plan of operation into 
plain view. 

Br idae Veie Faee is nearly opposite Cape Horn. I Seepage 228. J 



260 



THE COLUMBIA FOREVER. 




& : 







/ 1 ^AnHEI»/-r (0 RT/(R l, p-g 

.■'%.u^„_^==~ .- is*- ,:,. Butf4ls\N,y.£ 

ENTERING THE PALISADES OF T HE COLUMBIA, FROM THE WEST. 

Lone Rock is passed soon after leaving Cape Horn. It sticks 
its black nose up from the middle of the river, a lone sentinel 
standing as a perpetual protest against the erosive tendency of 
the waters. 

Mui/tonomah Faels appear on the south side, and Horsetaie 
one-fourth of a mile below. (See Main Tour, page 228). 



MARVELOUS SCENERY. 261 

The Cascade Range derives its name originally from the 
great number of beautiful cascades which pour out of almost every 
ravine and crevice of the mountains, many times from the very 
summit, presenting in the sun's rays a grand constellation of glit- 
tering jewels. 

Where the Columbia cuts its way through these mountains the 
walls rise in one place sheer 3,100 feet from the water. At all 
times not less than 25 beautiful cascades are to be seen when pass- 
ing through the Cascade range, and in the springtime they can be 
counted away up into the thousands. Some of these in their fall 
from the heights are lost in spray before they reach the river below 
while others come pouring down over the cliff over a thousand 
feet above in one unbroken sheet. Many of these falls would pre- 
sent at a distance the appearance of a mountain glacier were it not 
for the fine sheets of spray, which are wafted by the winds in 
clouds hundreds of feet away. 

A day spent in climbing to the summit of one of the highest 
peaks near the Multouomah falls repaid us by a view never to be 
forgotten. The most magnificent views of earthly scenery are 
presented from this point. High mountain peaks, covered with 
perpetual snow, are to be seen in all directions. Among these 
peaks the most notable are Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Adams, 
Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens and the Three Sisters. The sight is 
grand beyond description. At places, the country viewed with a 
glass looks barren and worthless except for a stock-range, and the 
waters move sluggishly towards the sea. At others the country 
presents the most beautiful appearance with gardens, orchards, 
vineyards, crops and herds — a perfect elysium. Again, it is cov- 
ered with a thick forest of heavy timber; or, the broad, rich bottom 
lauds are awaiting the husbandman to yield a thousand-fold the 
seed sown. Then again we look down onto the Columbia nearly 
3,000 feet, a narrow channel apparently not wider than your hand. 
Here the fantastic rocks, peaks, spires, domes and pinnacles; dark 
and dismal gorges and fearful chasms, are bewildering, awe-inspir- 
ing, indescribable. Make the climb, and our word for it, the vision 
engraved on the tablet of memory will ever remain — growing 
brighter as the head grows grayer. 



CASTLE Rock — As we approach the lower end of the rapids we 
find that, at the left, the heights recede and inclose a strip of level 
sandy land, in the midst of which stands a solitary mountain 
called "Castle Rock" 854 feet in height, surmounted with pines, firs, 
shrubs, vines and flowers. 

Orchards of fruit are now to be seen on the left in the midst of 
which peep out the little cottage of the settler. These people are 
clearing away the forest, and it will not be long before broad acres 
of grain will cover the slopes where are now but a few dwellers. 



In a cove near Castle Rock is a camp of Chinese engaged in 
catching sturgeon, drying, packing and shipping the fish to China. 

The Warren Salmon cannery now can be seen on the Oregon side, 
and their big wheel for catching fish. These wheels, as we have 
before explained, are operated by the current of water rushing 
against the paddles which are provided with a bucket or trough on 
the down stream side of the paddle board. The fish in their rush 
up stream drop into these troughs, and the wheel revolving takes 



262 AROUND THE CASCADES. 



them up, water and all, and empties into a long flume through 
which water and fish are carried to the cannery, and the work of 
cleaning, dressing and preparing the fish for market is commenced. 
It is rather a novel way to catch fish, but then the salmon when 
on a run up stream in the spring is a veritable fool fish, exposing 
himself to all sorts of danger without the least regard for safety. 



Lower Cascades or Cascades — Settled in 1852,by a Mr. Ham- 
ilton, is situated on Hamilton island, and is the ^eat of Skamania 
county, 63 miles from Portland by the river, and 47 from The 
Dalles. At this place all passengers, freight, etc., going up or 
down the river are transferred from boat to rail, and vice versa. A 
floating dock upon which is a depot and warehouse is anchored 
between the boat and the track of a railroad which extends the 
length of the island (six miles) to the Upper Cascades, where 
another transfer is made in like manner — a boat running regularly 
between the Upper Cascades and The Dalles; distance, 41 miles. 



BoNNEvmE, the regular mail station on the railroad, is situ- 
ated nearly opposite the Lower Cascades landing. 

Taking a seat in the little narrow gauge cars, we are soon 
whirled along through the timber to the upper end of the island. 
Just before reaching it, a high butte appears on our right, close to 
the track. Upon this butte stands the old blockhouse, heretofore 
referred to as the one occupied in early days by Gen. Sheridan. 

In passing over the railroad from the lower to the upper trans- 
fer, and at the latter, many beautiful views are afforded of the falls 
and rapids of the Cascades, of the work being done by the govern- 
ment on the big lock, of the hamlet and station of Cascade Locks 
on the south side of the river, and the towering mountain wall 
beyond. It is a grand picture. 

Upper Cascades — Here we leave the cars and step on board 
of the steamer, and when the transfer of passengers and freight is 
complete, we steam onward. The river widens out again in a lake- 
like expanse, made picturesque with islands and handsomely 
wooded shores, and the further we get away from the heart of the 
mountains the more marked is the change in the surroundings. 

Hood River — a little settlement on the main line of the rail- 
road, where we have been before, now appears in view. Passing 
it, our boat hugs the Washington side of the river, and a beautiful 
view of Mt. Hood is obtained, so near does it seem that we can 
see the glistening of the snow where its cliffs reflect the sun. 

Grand Amphitheatre — About five miles after passing Hood 
river our boat rounds a sharp promontory and enters on the right 
a small bay, from which rises a grand amphitheatre of cliffs to the 
height of fully 1,500 feet. In places the wall rises sheer 500 feet, 
then a terrace with a thick growth of trees, shrubs and vines, and 
then another sheer lift of 500 feet, to be again repeated by terraces, 
trees, etc. 

The rail-track runs close to the water's edge in places, tunnel- 
ing and cutting through great rocky spurs which shoot down to 
the river, inclosing as many little parks between, some of which 
are occupied by settlers with neat little homes surrounded with 
orchards and meadows. To our left are a number of beautiful 



THE END. 263 

little islands bey ond which . on the Washington side rise huge 
dikes of rock extending up the mountain side diagonally from the 
water's edge, sheer and uniform lifts from 100 to 500 feet on our 
side, on the other a slooing grassy table, with scattering trees and 
shrubs. 

Firs have now entirely Qisappeared while scattering spruce and 
pine have taken their places. The climate also is changed, and a 
dryness and warmth quite different from the western climate 
ia observable. 

On Hearing The Dalles the country opens out more and more, 
the terraced appearance continuing quite to that city, and the 
basalt here presenting a columnar formation. For the last three 
miles the stream is compressed between the rocky walls to a 
narrow channel and runs with more velocity than at auv place 
below. 

The boat landing is just below the railroa' i tracks, and the depot 
at the Umatilla house. 



History!— Only a little bit. Capt. Gray, of the British Navy, 
first discovered the Columbia river May 14, 1792, and named it 
after his ship, the Columbia. Capt. Boughtou, of the ship Chat- 
ham, first ascended the river as far as where Vancouver is now sit- 
uated and took possession of the river and country in the name of 
His Britannic Majesty on the loth of October, 1792. 

Capts. Lewis and Clarke started from Washington in the spring 
of 1804, to explore the trans-Rocky mountain country and the 
northwest coast. 



Jfe^ From the latest Congressional news the prospects are 
favorable for Washington and Montana Territories to soon be- 
come clothed with statehood — a right which they have long been 
entitled to demand. 



264 



EASTERN OFFICES. 



A. H. PRIDE, Gen. Eastern Agent, 409 Broadway, New York. 

F. H. MELENDY, New England Pass. Agent, 5 State St., Boston, Mass. 

H. A. GROSS, Trav. Pass. Agent, 29 Center Square, Lancaster, Pa. 

E. B. SPAIN, Trav. Pass. Agent, 46 Exchange Street, Buffalo, N. Y. 
J. H. MORLEY, Canadian Pass. Agent, 69 Yonge St., Toronto, Ont. 

C. TRAVER, Trav. Pass. Agent, Room 14, Clinton Block, Columbus, O. 

F. M. SNAVELY, Trav. Pass. Agent, 224 Bank St., Cleveland, O. 
W. H. GUERIN, Michigan Pass. Agt., 155 Jefferson, Avenue, Detroit, 

Michigan. 
A. H. WAGGENER, Trav. Pass. Agent, 7 Jackson Place Indianapolis, 
Indiana. 





Ffrf'l 
V V JIM 


TJfil j 


s 


£35 





OVER 7,000 MILES 

Of steel track in Illinois, Iowa, 
Wisconsin, Michigan, Minnesota, 
Nebraska, Dakota and Wyoming, 
penetrates the Agricultural, Mining 
and Commercial Centres of the 

WEST -'NORTHWEST 

The Unrivaled Equipment of the 
Line embraces Sumptuous Dining 
Cars, New Wagner and Pullman 
Sleepers, Supurb day Coaches and 

FAST VESTIBULED TRAINS 

Running direct between Chicago, 
St. Paul and Minneapolis, Council 
Bluffs and Omaha, connecting for 
Portland, Denver, San Francisco 
and all Pacific Coast Points, 

ONLY LINE TO THE BLACK HILLS 

For Tickets, Rates, Maps, Time Tables and 
full information, apply to any Ticket Agent or 
address the Gen'l Passenger Agent, Chicago, 111. 

J. M. 'WHITMAN, H. C. WICKER, E. P. WILSON, 
General Manager. Traffic Manager. Oen'l Pass. Agt. 

WESTERN OFFICES. 

S. B. JONES, City Pass. Agt., 62 Clark St., Chicago, 111. 

W. N. BABCOCK, Gen'l Western Agt., 1401 Famam St., Omaha, Neb. 

H. WHEELER, Gen'l Agt., 8 Winsdor Hotel Block, Denver, Col. 

J. H YOUNG, Trav. Pass. Agt., Salt Lake City, Utah. 

E. A. HOLBROOK, Gen'l Traffic Agent, 2 New Montgomery St., San 

Francisco, Cal. 
H. C ECKENBERGER, Gen'l Agt., 4 Washington St., Portland, Ore. 



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BUSINESS DIRECTORY. 



AGENTS Insurance. 

KNIGHT, FRYE & MILLS, Tacoma, Washington. 
See large view No. 6; Tours No. i. 

AGENTS Real Estate. 

THORNBURY & HUDSON, Real Estate Agents, office 
of Eastern Oregon Land Co.; 6oo,oco acres of unim- 
proved land for sale. Office for East End addition of 
Dalles City; 500 town lots and 40 five acre lots for sale. 
Rooms 7 and S, Land Office Building, The Dalles, 
Oregon. 

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. 

FIFIELD, S. G. Dealer in Agricultural Implements, 
Wagons, Buggies, Hacks, Carts, Etc. Court street, op- 
posite new Court House, Pendleton, Oregon. 

FILLOON BROS. Dealers in Agricultural Implements, 
and every variety of vehicles. Nos. 253 to 257 Second 
street, The Dalles, Oregon. 

PENDLETON HARDWARE AND IMPLEMENT 
CO. Importers of Agricultural Implements, Heavy and 
Shelf Hardware, Stoves, Ranges, Etc. Under the Pen- 
dleton Hotel, Pendleton, Oregon. 

STAVER & WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, 
Oregon. See large view No. 5; Tours No. 1. 

BANKS National. 

CITY NAT. BANK, Lawrence and Sixteenth street, 
Denver, Col. Eastern and Foreign Exchange. 

FIRST NAT. BANK, Hailey, Idaho Ter. Capital, $100,- 
000. W. B. F'arr, President; J. M. Burkett, Cashier. 

MERCHANTS' NAT. BANK, Seattle, Washington. 
See on large view, No. 5. 

PACIFIC NAT. BANK. See large view,No-4; Tours No.! 

UNION NAT, BANK AND SAFE DEPOSIT 
VAULTS, Salt Lake City, Utah. General banking busi- 
ness. 

BANKERS. 

DEXTER, HORTON & CO., Seattle, Washington. 
Incorporated, capital stock. $200,000; surplus and un- 
divided profits, $60,000. 

BOARD OF TRADE. 

SEATTLE BOARD— See large view No. 6; Tours No. 1. 

BOOKS Publishers. 

SMITH & CO., H. J., Nos. 341 to 351 Dearborn street, 
Chicago, 111., and No. 249 South Sixth street, Philadel- 
phia, Pa., Publishers Crofutt's New Series Overland 
Tours. Two volumes, designated No. 1 and No. 2. 
Price $1 per volume; sent postpaid, on receipt of the 
price. 

CUTLERY Manufacturers. 

MERIDEN CUTLERY CO., New York and Meriden, 
Conn. Manufrs. of all kinds of Table Cutlery, and ex- 
clusive makers of the Patent Hard Rubber Handle 
Knives. Orders solicited. 

DRUGGISTS "Wholesale and Retail. 

SNIPES AND KINERSSLY, No. 129 Second street, The 
Dalles, Oregon. 

DRY GOODS -Staple and Fancy. 

MOODY & McLEOD, The Dalles, Oregon. Dealers in 
Staple and Fancy Dry Goods, Clothing! Hats and Caps, 
Boots and Shoes, etc. Best and lowest prices. 

DRY GOODS Retail. 

FOX, J. C, Hailey. Idaho Territory. Dry Goods, Millin- 
ery and Fancy. 

ENGINES, BOILERS, PUMPS, ETC. 

STAVER & WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, 
Oregon. See large view No, 5, Tours No. 1 . 



WASHINK 
Tracts of 
present m 
bach, No 
ers, Tacoi 

Fl 

OREGON 
gon. See 

G 

SWIFT * 
Hardwar 
Cigars. 

GRC 

BROOKS 
ceries, F 
Oretron. 



E. C. COl 
TAYLOR. 
Jones, V 
Dealers 
ments, I 
Oregon. 
PENDLE' 
CO. Imi 
Shelf Hf. 
dleton H. 



BRIGGS I 
Chicago, 
coatp;s )UR< 

Mo - part 

ESMOND. 
First-cla llnts 

HOTEL Fhich 

street, K . 
INTERN. mg! 

Idaho Tlmit 

travelers 
MONTE 

on the lir 
ST. JAM! 
ST. JAM] 
OVERLA 

Bros. Pr 
WALKEI 

free bus 
WINDSO 

kept hot< 



WEBER, 

modatioi 



HALLAC 
Denver, 

THE E. ? 
URING 

THE OR 
CO., Po 

STAVER 
Oregon. 

WALKE 

Park str 



LEDGEF. 

Besbadi 

OREGOr 

The larc 






SrtF*<MCIi 




MAP 

SHOWING 

Crofutt's 



OvertangH^ «- 
Tours. 



No. I REPRESENTED By GREEN LINES. 

Main Tour MHM 

Side Tour., or Stages ___^ 

No. 2 REPRESENTED BY RED LINES. 

Main Tour a^aT^aM 

Side Tours, or Stages ^^^^^ 











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SPECIAL DEPARTMENT. 
BUSINESS DIRECTORY. 

AGENTS -Insurance. 

si . large view Wo. i 

AGENTS Real Eetate. 

NioxxHMfv A HUDSON.Real KatateAge, 
of Eastern Oregon Land - , f unim . 

proved land for sale. Offi, | ,„i addltionof 

{?«>*■« "v for sale. 

Land Office R 
Oregon. 

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. 

I'll ii in, s. O. Dealer in ,i Implement*, 

w agons, Buggies, Hat I , I 

ousi ■ ton, Oregon. 

i II. I. "on BROS, Dealers in Agricultural Impli 

and every variety <>i vehicles. \'os. 25; to 257 Second 

street, I hi Dallei , Ornfon. 
PENDLETON HARDWARE AND IMPLEMENT 

CO. Importers oi Agricultural Implements, Heavy and 

Shelf Hardware, Stoves, Ranges, Rti 1 rider the Pen 

dlelon Hotel, Pendleton, Oregon. 
STAVER a WALRER.Neu Market Block, Pi 

Oregon. See large view No. 5; Tours No. 1 

BANKS National. 

CITY NAT. HANK, Lawrence and Sixteenth street, 

Denver, Col. Eastern and Foreign Exchange. 
FIRST NA'l BANK, Hailey, Idaho Ter. Capital, $100, 

000. W. M. harr, President; J. M. liurkett, ('..shier. 
MERCHANTS' NAT. HANK, Seattle, \\ ashington. 
■ Ni large view, No 

PACIFIC NAT hank. Bee large view,No.4; Tours N0.1 
UNION NAT. HANK AND SAM'. DEPOSIT 
VAULTS, Salt Lake city, Utah. General banking busi- 
ness. 

BANKERS. 

DEXTER, MORTON & CO., Seattle, Washington. 
Incorporated, capital stock, $200,000; surplus and un- 
divided protils, {60,000. 

BOARD OF TRADE. 

SEATTLE HOARD-See large view No. 6; Tours No. I. 

BOOKS Publishers. 

SMITH A CO., M. I., Nos. 341 to 351 Dearborn street, 
Chicago, UL, and No. 2411 South Sixth street, Philadel- 
phia, Pa,, Publishers Crofutt's New Series Overland 
Tours Two volumes, designated No. 1 and No. .-. 

Price $1 per volume; sent postpaid, on receipt of the 
price. 

CUTLERY Manilla, torer*. 

MERIDEN CUTLERY CO.. New York and Meriden 
Conn. Manufra. of all kinds of Table Cutlery, and ex- 
clusive makers of the Patent Maid Rubber Handle 

Knives. Or.lers solicited. 

DRUGGISTS Wholesale and Retail. 

SNIPES AND KINKKSSI.Y, No. 1 jo Second street, The 
Dalles, Oregon. 

DRY GOODS Staple and Fancy. 

MOODY & McI.KOI), the Dalles, Oregon. Dealers in 
staple and Fancy Dry Goods, Clothing, Hats ami Caps, 
Hoots and Shoes, etc. Best and lowest prices. 

DRY GOODS Retail. 

FOX, J.C., Hailey, Idaho Territory. Dry Goodt, Millin- 
ery and Fan 

ENGINES, BOILERS. PUMPS, ETC. 

STAVES A WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, 
Oregon. See large view No. 5, Tours No. 1 . 



TOR SALE. 

WASHINGTON rSSrVoRy TIMBER LANDS! In 

' -"' <'■■:,, ,,!'.;...., a « res, at prices far below 
ant market Vil i, ,« Correspondence solicited. Sikin- 
»l V " ;J " * s!, tii Re 1 Estate and Mortgage Brok- 
»ma, Vvaah 
ItJ *HlTr/RE -Manufacture™. 
" v ' 'H\T|| 1:1; MANFG. CO., Portland, Ore- 
gon. \o 6, Tours No, 1. 

GENERAL MERCHANDISE. 

Wholesale and Retail. 
1 A REGAN Hailey, Idaho Territory. Groceries, 
Hardware, Boots 'jnd Shoes, Clothing, Liquors and 
Cigars. -Mining supplies a specialty. 

GKOCERi ES . PROVISIONS, ETC. 

BROOKS A BEERS Jobbers ami Dealers in Staple Gro- 
• ''"■. Grain Flour, Bacon, Etc., I he Dalles, 






HARDWARE. 



1 "l 1 IN' HABDWARE CO., Hailey, Idaho Ter. 
I w LOR, IONES A CO. F. C. Taylor, Prcs.; W. II. 
(ones, Vice-Pres. and Manager; S. P. Sturges, Sec'y. 
Dealers in General Hardware and Agricultural Imple- 
ment, Ira,,,', Opera Mouse Building, Pendleton, 
Oregon. 
PENDLBTON MAKDW Alii. AND IMPLEMENT 
ru Importers of Agricultural Implements, Heavy and 
Shelf Hardware, stoves, Ranges, Etc. Under the Pen- 
dleton Hotel, Pendleton, Oregon. 

HOTELS. 

BRIGGS HOI sk, lorner Randolph and Fifth avenue, 

Chicago, III. !•'. I'pman, Proprietor. 
COATES HOUSE. The hading hotel in Kansas City, 

Mo. 
BSMOND HOTEL (European Plan) Portland, Oregon. 
First-class. Free Bus to and from all trains and boats. 
HOTEL BRUNSWICK, corner Broadway and Eleventh 

street, Kansas Cily, Mo 
INTERNATIONAL. Matt. McFall, Prop., Bellevue, 

Idaho Ter. Special accommodations lor commercial 

travelers. 
MONTR CRISTO, Salida, Colo. Regular meal station 

on the line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. 
ST. JAMES. Opp. Grand Opera House, Denver, Colo. 
ST. JAME8. Kansas City, Mo. 
OVERLAND HOTEL, Boise City, Idaho Ter. Eastman 

Bros. Proprietors. Rates $3 to $3.50 per day. 
WALKER MOUSE, Salt Lake City, Utah. First-class 

free bus. G. S. Erb, Proprietor. 
WINDSOR HOTEL. Topeka, Kan. Largest and best 

kept hotel in the city. 

LI VI RY STABLES. 

WEBER, PETER. Hailey, Idaho Ter Special accom- 
modations for Tourists. 

LUMBER, Etc. 

MALLACK AJ HOWARD, Seventh and Larimer streets. 
Denver, Colo. 

THE E. F.HALLACK LUMRER AND MANUFACT- 
URING CO., No. iS 2 i S. Malladay Street, Denver, Colo. 

THE OREGON LUMBER AND MANUFACTURING 
CO., Portland, Oregon. 

MACHINERY. 

STAYER A.- WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, 
Oregon. Sec large view No. 5, Tours No. I, 

MATCH MANUFACTURERS. 

WALKER * DANA, Office and Factory No. 10 N. E. 
Park street, corner A, Portland, Oregon. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

I. EDGED. Daily and Weekly, Tacoma, Washington 
Bess advertising medium in the Puget Sound country. 

OREGONIIAN. Daily and Weekly, Portland, Oregon. 
The lariest circulation of any newspaper in Oregon. 



Kl 1 oki,. Published Weekly at Park Ctv, Utah. The 
richest Mining I amp in the Territory 

d ^r,, !:,::. NTA,v nkw * &* *>* *«**. 

^B^tt^aho^e'rn^ 68 "'- M ' ;ton KeU * *»* 
TIMES Daily and Weekly. Hailey, Idaho Territory. 
H'rhorv"- °^ ^ Wm **- S:llt '"^ Cfty, Utah 
PHOTOGRAPHERS. 

C i- A o.^eauu^vas7;;4,o„: of p "* ci so,,n,L Op|,ositc 

REAL ESTATE. 

[See Agents and Hrokers.] 

A JT KB 1 N «-L r,, J na, Washington. See large- 

view No. 6, I ours No. 1. 

BAER A BOARDMAN. Roans No. 5 and 6 BuUer 

Building, Seattle, Washington. 
I -HI. I MAN I.I.KH EI.I V \ & I O., Seattle, Washirg- 

ton. See on large view No. 5, Tours No. 1. 
KNIGHT, 1'RVE & MILLS, Tacoma, Washington. See 

large view No. 6, "lours N„. ,. 
McGREGOR, DAN'L. Investment Hroker, No. 1346 l'a- 

cihc avenue, Tacoma, Washington. 
PINCKNEI A CO., WM. II. Rooms 1 and 2, Union 

Block, Seattle, Wash. Information regarding SeatUe. 

the most desirable locations for intending settlers and 

the best opportunity lor investment in Washington, f ir- 

nished upon application. 
ROSS & NANAERT, Tacoma, Washington. See large 

view No. 6, Tours No. 1. 
THE SEATTLE LAND CO. Incorporated. Molman & 

Robinson. Managers, 12^ Cherry street (ground floor), 

Seattle, Washington. t3*~Ruy and sell Real Estate. 
SMART, E. T., Ilutler Block, corner James and Second 

streets. Real Estate Exchange, Seatlle, Washington. 
SMITH. ROOT A- JORDAN, 919 Pacific avenue, Tacoma, 

Washington. Special attention to investments for non- 
residents. Correspondence solicited. 
WHEELER A HALE, No. 1019 Pacific avenue, Tacorr a, 

Washington. References, Pacific Nat. Bank and Nat. 

Rank of Commerce. 
WHITE & Co., corner Main and Second street, Seattle, 

Washington. Real Estate and Mortgage Brokers. 

REAL ESTATE Brokers. 

fSee Agents.! 

LEMMON & BOON'. Real Estate Loans and Insur- 
ance. Hailey, Idaho Territory. 

PINCKNEY A CO.. Wm. H. Rooms Nos. 1 and 2 Union 
Block, Seattle. Washington. Information regarding Seatt e 
the most desirable locations for intending settlers, and the 
best opportunity for investment in Washington, furnished 
upon application. 

SMART, E. T.. Butler Block, corner James and Second 
streets. Real Estate Exchange, Seattle, Washington. 

SMITH, ROOT* JORDAN, 010 Pacific avenue, Tacoma, 
Washington. Special attention to investments for nor 
residents. Correspondence solicited. 

TAYLOR O. D., office in French's Building, corner 
Washington and Second streets, The Dalles, Oregon. 
Loans and purchases for non-residents a specialty; S ptr 
cent, net guaranteed to lenders. 

RAILROADS. 

Chicago &• Northwestern. See last page of Tours. 

TRANSFER LINES. 

SEATTLE TRANSFER CO. Incorporated, paid up- 
capital, $150,000. Passengers, freight and baggage. Bag- 
gage chr-,,ked to all points. Have a fine line of ca.' 'ages 
and caiis. Special rates to Tourists. Office corner 
Second and Main streets, Seattle, Washington. Tele- 
phone 41. B. F. Shaubut, Manager. 

WATCHES, JEWELRY. ETC. 

BRUMM, G. W.. Boise City, Idaho Territory. Watches, 
Clocks, Jewelrv, Silverware, Spectacles, Field Glasses, 
Importers and Fancy Goods, Toys, etc. ■ '■ 



yg^This Map goes in all editions of TOURS 
No. 1 and 2. The cards insetted In this depart 
ment are charged for at ten dollars for two lines 
(sixteen words), exclusive of the headings, which 
are free. Parties can go under various headings 
at the same rate. No cuts or display type admit 
ted. Each additional line five dollars. 







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